On another message board, I was reading where a guy uses Mobil 1 in his car during the winter months and then conventional petroleum based oil in the summer months. I was wondering if there might be any concern with following such a practice?

Also, although not exactly the same practice, I was wondering if there would be any concern about alternating seasonally between Mobil 1 and a Group III based synthetic blend?

I don't believe there is any problem switching between conventional and synthetic of any group and/or blend. I think the FAQs at the Mobil 1 web site even says it is ok. The most difficult thing probably is timing it so you don't dump oil early just to make the switch. Unless you are in a pretty extreme climate, you may be able to run the same oil year round.

I hear the new Mobil Clean 7500 is great oil and essentially a "full synthetic" though they call it a blend, I heard it is a Group III/PAO mix. This stuff is on sale for $2.18 a quart at Walmart and probably would do you very well year round. You could pull it up and check the cold properties.

quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
I hear the new Mobil Clean 7500 is great oil and essentially a "full synthetic" though they call it a blend, I heard it is a Group III/PAO mix. This stuff is on sale for $2.18 a quart at Walmart and probably would do you very well year round. You could pull it up and check the cold properties.

The only Mobil oil I can buy in this neck of the woods is Mobil 1 at Walmart, Canadian Tire or the Imperial Oil dealer. The best price for a synthetic blend here is $4.99 per liter with brand name full synthetics usually being $8.00 or more per liter.

I have been using 5W30 Mobil 1 year round in a 99 Toyota Tercel that my daughter (who lives at home) drives back and forth to and from university (10 miles roundtrip). When I chose the Mobil 1 for that vehicle I considered that because the engine does not have a block heater I could feel a little more confident with the synthetic in January and February. Also, I considered that she is a low mileage driver so I don't have to change very often.

However, sometimes I wonder if it isn't just unnecessary expense.

quote:

Originally posted by Islander:
[QUOTE]However, sometimes I wonder if it isn't just unnecessary expense.

Relatively low cost peace of mind I suppose. How many miles does she put on it per oil change? Not sure your low temps, but the M1 will sure behave well on a cold morning. A blend may do well though.

The Clean 7500 is pretty new. Maybe will get to your neck of the woods in time at Walmart.

During January and early February our daily lows range from between -4F to -22F. My daughter only drives about 7000 miles per year. Since her driving is short trips I usually change the oil on the Toyota every 4 or 5 months.

Correction to my previous post. It should have read that at times during the month of January or February our daily lows can during the coldest week or two range between 0 degrees F and -22F. However, that is not the norm. During January & February the daily lows are usually in the range of about 20F.

Ever do a used oil analysis on it? I know M1 can go 7000 miles, but not sure with the short trips. Maybe an 0w20 grade M1 if the manual allows it as the 20 weight will get to operating temp quicker so relatively speaking, the trips won't be quite as short from the oil's perspective.

Anybody else want to weigh in. Where are the experts (Callisa) and very knowledgable folks (Timer, MGBV8)?

I would not alternate back and forth with synthetics and mineral oils because of residual dillution thats not drained out along with how the oils is made to protect engine seals which is " one " of the reasons I don't like mixing oils also. There's other reasons too many to list right now .

When changing from Mobil 1 to group III only 4-5 bucks is saved once or twice per year .

I'm a big fan off finding an oil that works for your engine and climate along with budget and sticking with it a minimum two years before going to another brand or type .

And yes , the new Clean 7500 looks to be a winner but will probably show lowest wear after the first interval because of whats in it or rather , how it's made .

It's the same price as regular Castrol , Pennzoil ect these days .

But I'd like to point out I buy new vehicles and drive every last mile out of them usually .

For most people that trade every 4-5 years I would just follow the maufacturers recommendations and use mineral oil in climates of above 15F .

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Timer,

I see no point to what that person is doing. It makes no sense to me. Will it hurt, not likely BUT there is no reason to change back and forth. Why even use the Mobil 1 to start with, it is far and above any Gr. III blend.

Some people just lack common sense and to me this proves that. Sounds like this person is penny wise and pound foolish.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeR:
... Some people just lack common sense and to me this proves that. Sounds like this person is penny wise and pound foolish.

Mike, I would argue contrary, that Islander is wise because he came here to get some advice to better manage his automobile maintenance.

Islander, Go with Timer's advice. He knows his oil and has a lot of experience. BTW, what oil selections do you have up there? If you can't get the Mobil Clean 7500, I understand there is a pretty good Exxon Group III synthetic for reasonable price.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeR:
I see no point to what that person is doing. It makes no sense to me. Will it hurt, not likely BUT there is no reason to change back and forth. Why even use the Mobil 1 to start with, it is far and above any Gr. III blend.

Some people just lack common sense and to me this proves that. Sounds like this person is penny wise and pound foolish.

In my original message, I didn't indicate that I was going to start alternating. Rather, having read about the other person who is alternating, I wondered whether it would be a problem. (I buy the oil and filters for both vehicles in the household and in the daughter's I use Mobil 1 and in mine I use a synthetic blend because I think it is adequate and because I change my oil too often for $8.00 per liter oil. In the case of the vehicle I drive myself, I put about 25,000 miles per year on it and those miles include short 6 mile trips per day driving to work.) As well, I buy my oil by the case and often I have some on hand that I purchased for a good price. Consequently, IF I alternated, I could have the same type of oil in both vehicles during part of the year. (Just a thought.)

Nevertheless, I have been using this and other similar forums for information because a)I am interested and b)I have used them as a learning tool.

Also, every so often when I think of co-workers who regularly get 150,000 or 200,000 miles out of their vehicles in this climate and use any inexpensive, API certified 5W30 or 10W30 motor oil available to them. They suggest to me that based on their experiences, that I am probably wasting my money! (Regardless, that's my choice!)

quote:

Originally posted by MikeR:
I see no point to what that person is doing. It makes no sense to me.

Oops.
Well folks, looks like I jumped to a conclusion. I think MikeR was refering to the guy that Islander was refering to at the other site.

Sorry about the confusion I started.

I appreciated all the comments on this subject.

Thanks folks.

quote:

I think MikeR was refering to the guy that Islander was refering to at the other site.

That I was.

quote:

Also, every so often when I think of co-workers who regularly get 150,000 or 200,000 miles out of their vehicles in this climate and use any inexpensive, API certified 5W30 or 10W30 motor oil available to them. They suggest to me that based on their experiences, that I am probably wasting my money! (Regardless, that's my choice!)

But how often did they change the oil? Every 3000 miles? You could easily use a Gr IV synthetic, extened your oil change intervals to 2,3 or 5X what these guys do, get the same longevity and more, at less cost.

There is more to it that just making it 200,000 miles. At what cost?

I am talking from experience. I have used nothing but synthetic oils and lubes since 1975. I only change oil every 10,000 miles or 1 year. I sometimes go longed but I don't travel as much these days. Back in the 1970's and 80's I would easily go 25,000 miles on a single oil change. Never did I experience any engine problems. To the contrary, the engines were like new at 100,000 + miles and I sold them for a lot more $$ because of it. The same people who would chastise me for using synthetic oil would tell me to let them know when I get a new vehicle because they want to buy my used one.

That's like a friend who has my old 1996 Chevy E. Cab Z71 4x4. I sold it to him at around 50g miles. The OEM Goodyear Wranglers RT/S tires lasted him to nearly 80,000 miles. When it came time for new tires last year, he was outraged at the $165 each price tag for the new Goodyears and spent $125 for Dayton tires. Now he has about 30g miles on those and they are nearly worn out. Did he save money? Heck no, he is going to have to get new tires soon. So, $165 per tire gets him 80,000 miles with GY's but its going to cost him at least $250 to get close with the Daytons. He still thinks the Goodyears are too expensive and not worth it, will buy another set of Daytons. How can you reason with people like that who only think about how much its costing them at the moment. They only compare initial cost and do not look at the long term benefit.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: MikeR,

quote:

Originally posted by Islander:
[QUOTE]
I put about 25,000 miles per year on it and those miles include short 6 mile trips per day driving to work.) As well, I buy my oil by the case and often I have some on hand that I purchased for a good price. Consequently, IF I alternated, I could have the same type of oil in both vehicles during part of the year. (Just a thought.)

Nevertheless, I have been using this and other similar forums for information because a)I am interested and b)I have used them as a learning tool.

Also, every so often when I think of co-workers who regularly get 150,000 or 200,000 miles out of their vehicles in this climate and use any inexpensive, API certified 5W30 or 10W30 motor oil available to them. They suggest to me that based on their experiences, that I am probably wasting my money! (Regardless, that's my choice!)

Regardless , Mobil 1 excels in short trip operation and high heat and has great TBN retention . Alot depends on how well you rings are sealing but if the motor is tight Mobil will be tough to beat year round for your driving . The analysis might not be the prettiest considering the severe cold the motor see's but the oil will not fail . I could see you doing 10k oil changes if the oil does not get much in any fuel in it and there is some consumption making room for top off oil so the oil pays for it's self there .

I's good that you visit other forums . Be carefull what info you do receive and what you do with it is my opinion .

There are many new oils or rather formulas due to the API SM GF-4 deal . I'm of the opinion some merely meet spec while others exceed by a good margine ...saying what oils took engines like your friends to 200k in the past " might " not take those same engines that far these days . These oils vary in both additive packs and base oils . Some are just flat better than others by a long shot when talking 200k miles . Look for oils using moly and boron when speaking dino's . The lower the moly used , the better the base oil is from what I've been able to determine .

It's buyer beware now more than ever in my opinion but if the Clean 7500 is using the pao thats in it as a cold weather performance additive that means less vii's to shear and less pour point depressants that just takes up space with no lube qualities . I would think you'll see that oil soon where you live and I would highly recommend giving it a try to see how it does for you when it arrives .

FWIW

Again, thanks for the advice folks!

quote:

Originally posted by Timer:
[QUOTE]

It's buyer beware now more than ever in my opinion but if the Clean 7500 is using the pao thats in it as a cold weather performance additive that means less vii's to shear and less pour point depressants that just takes up space with no lube qualities . I would think you'll see that oil soon where you live and I would highly recommend giving it a try to see how it does for you when it arrives .

FWIW

Unfortunately, I contacted Exxon to find out if the Clean 7500 would be available in Canada and received the following reply:

"There are no plans in place to commercialize Mobil Clean 7500 in Canada.
Its supply has been restricted to the USA for the time being. We
appreciate your inquiry and thank you for your Mobil 1 business."

quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
[QUOTE]If you can't get the Mobil Clean 7500, I understand there is a pretty good Exxon Group III synthetic for reasonable price.

Islander. I meant Esso not Exxon (same parent company maybe). The specific oil is Esso XD-3, but now I am thinking maybe it is a heavy duty motor oil, so maybe not applicable. Anyway, what brands can you get in your neck of the woods?

quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:

quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
[QUOTE]If you can't get the Mobil Clean 7500, I understand there is a pretty good Exxon Group III synthetic for reasonable price.

Islander. I meant Esso not Exxon (same parent company maybe). The specific oil is Esso XD-3, but now I am thinking maybe it is a heavy duty motor oil, so maybe not applicable. Anyway, what brands can you get in your neck of the woods?

Of course ExxonMobil is the one company and there is a partnership with ESSO (If not the same parent company.)

Except for Mobil 1, we can't get Mobil passenger car oils in this area. We have most of the major brands I read about on this forum, e.g. Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Castrol,Amsoil, Redline, Shell, some Havoline plus some major oil company brands that may be more familiar- at least to consumers, in Canada e.g. Esso, Petro-Canada, Irving, and Ultramar.

At the present time, I have two cars and use 5W30 Mobil 1 in one of them and 5W30 Petro-Canada Synthetic Blend in the other. If I were to use straight dino oil I would choose Pennzoil mainly because for this area I prefer an oil with a low pour point and/or borderline pumping spec.

Using a performace tyre like Goodyear Eagle F1 will shorten your stopping distance. Synthetics are performance oils but unlike other performance items pay for themselves with longer changes increased mpg and additional bhp.