OK, since I seem to be good at asking opinions and questions about new and different products out in the marketplace, my next one is if anyone has any experience with this oil. It is manufactured by BND Automotive, LLC. I've talked to Brian Schubert, the founder and owner and it seems pretty interesting. He will custom blend a specific viscosity range and certain additive packages based on your vehicles specific requirements and or problems/concerns/quirks.
He is still working on specs for my Honda CR-V, but in the mean time I was curious if any one else had used this lubricant or was thinking about trying it out for themselves.
He is a chemist and member on bobistheoilguy.com. An extremely nice and honest guy. Straight shooter that knows his stuff.
Regarding QB, I really don't think they are all that great from what I've read. In all honesty, unless your racing, it makes no sense to use anything other then an oil found on the shelf of a retail chain. Motorcraft, Mobil 1, Castrol etc....
This has synthetic characteristic base oil from mineral stock that has been hydrotreated to take all the wax and pariffin from the oil. We produce a water clear oil we call Mineral Synthesis base stock. It resists gum and varnish 6 times better than regular petroleum oils.
Originally posted by MGBV8: This has synthetic characteristic base oil from mineral stock that has been hydrotreated to take all the wax and pariffin from the oil. We produce a water clear oil we call Mineral Synthesis base stock. It resists gum and varnish 6 times better than regular petroleum oils.
Maybe I am being a bit simplistic about this, but that description seems to fit the so-called "synthetic," Group III oil, which can be had for $4 a quart US in many name brands.
On the QB web site, they claim to splash their oil on a sheet of steel heated to 600F for 24 hours as an in process test, to see if the oil needs more work. I wish there was another blender out there that could comment on this. Strange.
Posts: 100 | Location: California | Registered: Sun June 12 2005
I wouldn't say that name brand off the shelf dollar ninety nine ( or even four buck ) a quart oil is equivalent to quantum blue..
the fact it outperforms mobil one as far as anti wear capabilities, and is shear / viscosity stable to 6,000 degrees at leat makes it worth further investigation. If you read the website, the basestock isn't what gives those benefits, it's the liquid catlaysts added to the oil upon manufacture.
It's in every vehicle in the family, and among other things it's stopped the piston slap in the C5 vette, and my blazer with over 200,000 miles on it qualified for titan labs performance warranty, because the UOA looked so good.
I like the fact that the oil doesn't shear out of grade, unlike some of the " name brand " oils I read about on BITOG.
Anyway, give 'em a call and learn more. many commercial construction entities have doubled and sometimes tripled the time between rebuilds as a result of using this stuff, and that's what sold me.
Tom
Posts: 3 | Location: Cleveland Ohio | Registered: Sun March 06 2005
the fact it outperforms mobil one as far as anti wear capabilities, and is shear / viscosity stable to 6,000 degrees at leat makes it worth further investigation. If you read the website, the basestock isn't what gives those benefits, it's the liquid catlaysts added to the oil upon manufacture.
What liqiud catalysts? who add's it? no such thing additives perhaps?
None of this is proven or true all they are is a blender quoting GPIII base oil info and in a very non technical laughable manner I know since I'm a 30 years PCMO blender this stuff is perhaps ok but I would use Mobil 1 and save my Money.
They make it sound like they make there own base stock NOT true they play on the lay persons lack of knowlege of lube formulating using big words that are all BS.
6,000 degress or even 600 degres spalshing oil on a hot plate what does that prove.
there is a ASTM test for all types of lube testing and the crack pots never them since they will show how lousy there stuff is they make up dumb tests to show how great there oil is with no comparisions.
Buy if you want, me know I'll make my own bruce
Posts: 172 | Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: Fri July 15 2005
Well, I guess I did say "fire away" didn't I? Bruce381, do you still work for the company that you blend for, if not, do you blend different brands/weights/additive packages out of house? If yes to the second, how's about giving me a killer oil package for my 2004 Honda CR-V that's both winter and summer compatible.
This vehicle gets about 20k per year, does a few long trips during the summer, is mostly a combination driven vehicle (city vs highway), and can sometimes sit for 2 to 3 days before starting (due to second vehicle usage). I see 90's sometimes in the summer and some 0 days in the winter, but nothing too extreme.
I wait eagerly to see what you come up with.
Posts: 144 | Location: Glenshaw, PA, USA | Registered: Mon March 01 2004
TallPaul, what do you think of the "exotic" synthetics such as Neo, Torco, and the likes of those?
I've used Redline before, but then found out from a very reliable source that it tends to "absorb" water to the point of causing some corrosion, particularly if the vehicle is not brought up to full running temperature each time that it is started.
I've also been tossed the oil Fuchs Titan 0w20, but I can only locate one source @ $14+ per liter (and shipping I'm sure, never went that far in the cart. The website is http://www.valuhub.com).
I guess it's my rocket science brain working way too hard at finding the very best needle in that perverbial haystack again!!!
Posts: 144 | Location: Glenshaw, PA, USA | Registered: Mon March 01 2004
Dad2leia, I am not familiar with any of those other oils you mention. Maybe MGBV8 could give you some feedback. I believe he is familiar with some of these other oils.
I've used Redline before, but then found out from a very reliable source that it tends to "absorb" water to the point of causing some corrosion, particularly if the vehicle is not brought up to full running temperature each time that it is started.
What reliable source? ANY oil if not allowed to reach a 100C will "hold water" redline is no better or worse than anything else. In fact PCMO's due to additves will hold up to a couple hundred PPM of water for a long time even at 240F for at least a few hours I know I have tested this.
bruce
Posts: 172 | Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: Fri July 15 2005
My source is The Motor Oil Site, which is moderated by Michael Kaufman, author of The Motor Oil Bible. I have personally conversed with him and he expressed this concern with the Redline products when I asked about them in detail before I continued using it in my crankcase.
My personal experience with Redline is that I've never left it in a crankcase long enough for the contaminates and particulates to pose a major problem. The absolute longest I've left ANY oil in the crankcase is 10,000 miles. Period. I just don't believe fully in super extended drain intervals, even with UOA's. Besides, if I have to go under the car to get a sample, why not just change all of it?
Posts: 144 | Location: Glenshaw, PA, USA | Registered: Mon March 01 2004
Thanks I do not know this man is this a book?but he may have his reasons tho I have never heard of the problem. 10K drains are OK with a about any syn in my Mind. And you are right going to the trouble of getting a sample just change it. Or try a hand held vaccum pump and draw sampple out of oil filler tube. bruce
Posts: 172 | Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: Fri July 15 2005
