Please who knows where I can buy SAE 10W-40 and what is the price exworks.

Thanks for your help.

Assuming they don't sell 10w40 in Nigeria, I would suggest you search the net for a mail order company that sells the brand you want. The next problem is whether they would ship to Nigeria.

Remember, with 10w40 you want a quality oil like Valvoline Maxlife or Durablend. Perhaps a synthetic even--Castrol has a nice "synthetic" (I use quotes because probably Group III) 10w40. A cheap 10w40 may be more prone to viscosity index improver breakdown.

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A cheap 10w40 may be more prone to viscosity index improver breakdown.

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@TallPaul
Just for the matter of fun...
There are specifications that even require from the oil to shear down.
Otherwise they don't "fit". What kind of specificationwould you recommend him, so he get's a good oil...?

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Originally posted by Callisa:
What kind of _specification_would you recommend him, so he get's a good oil...?

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That's why you are on the board. I am just a consumer who is trying to be more imformed. So for me to get a better quality oil to not sheer I would consider the base oil quality on a somewhat superficial basis of base oil group. I would also suggest that a higher HT/HS suggests a more robust (read thicker) base oil is present and so less VIIs. Likewise a higher 40 C viscosity.

We need some facts here, are we talking about a heavy truck or passenger car, type of fuel (if diesel sulphur content), what make, type and year, what are the OEM's spesifications?

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We need some facts here, are we talking about a heavy truck or passenger car, type of fuel (if diesel sulphur content), what make, type and year, what are the OEM's spesifications?

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Very good point.

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I am just a consumer who is trying to be more imformed.

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What says the owners manual from your own car, what oil you should use? "15W-40 with stable VI's and high HTHS?"

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A cheap 10w40 may be more prone to viscosity index improver breakdown.

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I would also worry some about residues on piston, rings and ringsticking using a mineraloil with visc 10w40.

To get an acceptable quality spec.(ACEA)for todays vehicles you will certainly need some group 3 or higher if desired visc. is 10w40 or 10w30.
But if you choose a 15w40 visc. you can get both API CI-4/SL and ACEA A3/B3/E3&5 without using expensive baseoils.

Castrol GTX may qualify

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Originally posted by Callisa:

What says the owners manual from your own car, what oil you should use? "15W-40 with stable VI's and high HTHS?"

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Come now, surely you have heard of CAFE? Much of the oil sold in the US and the grades recommended in the "owner's manual" are tainted by the EPA's desires combined with the auto companies lubricant gymnastics trying to avoid CAFE penalties. Anyway, I actually run 10w30 in two vehicles, which is "allowed" by the manual. But I frequently, purposely avoid the API starburst rated stuff. On one vehicle I run 10w40, as the recommended 10w30 did not give it quite so good of oil pressure. Nice thing about 10w40 is no 10w40 has the API starburst.

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Originally posted by Lars:

To get an acceptable quality spec.(ACEA)for todays vehicles you will certainly need some group 3 or higher if desired visc. is 10w40 or 10w30.

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Good point. Most oils recommended for newer US automobiles do not meet ACEA A3, but the Valvoline Durablend 10w40 does--at least the SL did. The new "improved" SM (more of this API stuff ya know) does not list A3. Ah well, I have 30 qts of the SL so I am good for a few years. No Callisa, it won't rot, Valvoline told me the shelf life is a lot longer than that.

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No Callisa, it won't rot, Valvoline told me the shelf life is a lot longer than that.

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So, you are really prepared for the next oil crisis...

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I would also worry some about residues on piston, rings and ringsticking using a mineraloil with visc 10w40.

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You don't have to be worried. There are no disadvantages from good mineral oils compared to synthetic oils, if you change the oils in their designed lifetime.
Besides, how big is the influence concerning piston cleanliness with an Oil with breaking vs. stable VI's in an engine oil test?

Callisa:
When I mentioned ring sticking and deposits, it was because a mineral oil have lower VI than a group 3 or 4, and need more VII additives, and they have the disadvantage to to form deposits on upper part of the pistons. Choosing a group 3 or 4 baseoil you will need very little, if any VII additives.

TallPaul:
I think that API SM are closer to ACEA A1 than A3, exept for the volatility demands in ACEA.

Callisa

What are your views on designed lifetime for minerals and the possible effect of Fuel dilution from running carb cars?

You also mentioned "good" minerals, any view on the cheap own brand products sold in UK such as Halfords.

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Choosing a group 3 or 4 baseoil you will need very little, if any VII additives.

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The bigger you "stretch" the viscosity range, the more modifier you need. Example: 10W-30 needs little VM, the same formulation can be sold as 5W-40 with more VM. 10W-60 says everything concerning VM....

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Originally posted by Callisa:
... Example: 10W-30 needs little VM, the same formulation can be sold as 5W-40 with more VM.

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What do you mean by VM? If it expands the 10w30 out both ways to a 5w40 I assume VM is viscosity index improver (VII) and pour point depressant mix? Or does VII alone also help improve cold flow? Would they actually have to run a thinner average viscosity base oil to get a 10w down to a 5w?

Confused and hoping for enlightenment.

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Originally posted by Callisa:

So, you are really prepared for the next oil crisis...

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Yeah, too bad though I did not think of it when there was still SH oil on the shelves, because my truck is a '95 and the manual says to run SH.

(dry humor)

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Or does VII alone also help improve cold flow?

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No, for that purpose so called "pourpoint depressants" are used.

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Would they actually have to run a thinner average viscosity base oil to get a 10w down to a 5w?

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No, Viscosity modifier and pourpoint depressants are very effective addives.

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Yeah, too bad though I did not think of it when there was still SH oil on the shelves, because my truck is a '95 and the manual says to run SH.

(dry humor)

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I thought we are talking about oil???