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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

I was browsing my350z.com and came across this thread it said,

"A couple weeks ago I posted a question regarding the use of synthetic oil. I decided to send Nissan a question asking whether or not synthetic could be used and how that would affect the warranty. Here was their response:

Thank you for contacting Nissan North America, Inc. and allowing us the
opportunity to be of assistance.

Nissan recommends mineral based oils. We do not recommend synthetic oils due
to possible engine damage.

If you have any further questions or comments, please feel free to e-mail
us.

Sincerely,
National Consumer Affairs"

I wanted to get your opinion on this, because I am currently using synthetic oil in my car. I also heard that a test was done that proved that Walmarts brand oil filter (super tech) is pretty damn good. What do you guys think?

I am driving a Nissan 350Z
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Run the synthetic oil, I would be very suprised if any real Nissan engineer would make such a statement. On the otherhand car dealerships, mechanics, and customer care lines are notoriously brainless with repect to oil.


The supertech filters are pretty good. The actual media size is a bit small on some of them, but they all have much better construction that the higher priced Frams setting next to them.
Synthetics can be a bit of a headache. PAO basestocks have a bad name for themselves out there - but most people dont' know there are different types of synthetics. As well as the fact that most folk who switch to sythetics extend drain intervals.

I'd be sketchy about giving the green light unless the customer was fully aware of which conditions to use it under.


But then again - the New car franchises that have inhouse servicing in our part of the world - use the cheapest crap they can find to service your car with. I don't think they really want to extend your engine life - know what I mean?
Using the correct PAO basestocks in the correct applications isn't a bad thing. Certainly, I cannot think of a PAO based oil that isn't superior to the Group III fake syn oils!

You do have a point about the dealer possibly fearing long drain intervals...I think everyone that has an interest in oil knows of at least one engine destroyed by improperly extended drains.


Locally to me, Ford dealers do use pretty decent lubricants and filters with the Conocco/Motorcraft 5W20 and the excellent Motorcraft oil filters. The GM dealerships have acceptable oil (Mobil DriveClean) and nice filters. Mopar dealers tend to have crappy rebadged FRAM filters. In general, all of the dealers are a bettter bet than the @#$@% quick-lube places, where you are certain to get a crappy filter, and likely to have little problems like stripped drain plugs, etc.
I made a similar post a while ago on this forum but for what it's worth. Most engine rebuilders will NOT recommend syns for the "break in" period of a rebuilt engine. The reason being, synthetics have far superior lubrication to mineral oils and can actually prevent piston rings from seating and other such problems can occur. There are stories of car manufacturers trying synthetic oils in new cars and finding similar problems. Perhaps Nissan are simplifying the problem by saying not to use synthetics at all. In my opinion, use synthetics after this period. After pulling the head off a 94 nissan bluebird (altima in US) with 390,000km on the odo my mechanics exact words were "If I hadn't looked at the clock I'd say this engine has only done 150,000". Yes, I run mobile 1.
I know for a fact that Porsche and Mercedes Benz, two of auto industries leading names OEM full Mobil-I in their vehicles from the assembly line. I have done that with my 91 Accord V6. I have used Mobil-I after the first service at 1000 miles, now I have over 525000 miles without a rebuild.

Sadly on my diesels I can ill afford the Delvac-I as they take a total of 5 gallons every oil change.
The keyword is Recommend I have a supercharged nissan frontier and while reading the owners manual i found that they don't "recommend the use of oil additives" I wouldn't change my oil without my SFR. No business or company can make you do anything and if a claim is made they must prove that the synthetic oil or additive was the cause of the mechanical failure we're protected under the magnuson law as well as lemon laws. If nissan had it their way they would make you use nissan brand oil the only company that has sucessfully monopolized is microsoft and there are still other operating systems out there. Recommend is a vague word but its not as strong as like "will void warranty if you use anything but our oil"

Sitting in on some seminars i've heard talk about all new cars built like after 2005 (don't hold me to the year) all cars will not only come with synthetic oil but the OEM's will be able to uphold the statement "will void your warranty if synthetic is not used"
Synthetic oil is going to become the standard inside of 10 years but geez maybe will be driving a car with hydrogen or something
"If the oil were as good as AMSOIL MOBIL 1 or German Castrol they wouldn't need additives."

Whatever that means?
All oil needs additives including those mentioned.
If amsoil castrol and mobil 1 made a oil without additives you would pray for companies like sfr and wynn's. Sorry to say but a oil does not become a motor oil approved oil until additives are put in with their base's.

I don't know why additives are frowned upon with out them we'd be riding bicycles and horses (sorry a little dramatic but you get the point)
Additive guy is correct. But I think dropitby was trying to say that the need to fortify a good oil further shouldn't exist. But then again even good oils don't perform well in every application or operating condition and additives are often the best solution.

I know that most wynn's additives contain friction proofing which fortify's beyond any additive included in regular API requirments by coating the internal components with a teflon like seal.

The problem with oil is that there is generally no immediate evidence (except for SAE variances or oil change discoloration) that it is performing better unless an SOS is performed. But I can vouch from experience the long term benefits of additive overtreats - either in the oil itself or from a bottle addittive like wynns.
I think a distinction should be made between the additives included with an oil and those that the user adds in. The aftermarket is a treacherous place full of Z-Max's, Duralubes and Slick 50s. I can therefore understand that most OEM issue blanket warnings against aftermarket additives.

In most dino oils, the additive package costs just a few cents and can be severely depleted in just one really hot day in rush hour traffic in an engine with marginal cooling. Some Toyota engines were especially vunerable. I don't feel comfortable with dino oil anymore, especially with an overhead cam engine. I will usually add some SFR100 to the oil for that added safety margin. That goes double for when the OEM recommends 0W20 or 5W20 which I dispise.

Modern engines are made to much closer tolerances and due to emissions requirements, a lengthy break-in of 1000-1500 miles is no longer permissable. Nowadays, the rings seat after about 4-5 hours at most. In the last three vehicles, I converted to a synthetic lube at 1277, 684, and 781 miles respectively. None of them ever burned any lubricant. Even before I converted to synthetic, I added SFR100 to the dino lube as soon as I got the vehicle home.

I do not need the SFR100 with the synthetic I use.

I think the suspicion of those above that Nissan's response was motivated in part by the desire not to see the engine last too long is probably correct. I think most of their recommendations are designed with the hope of a visit to the showroom within 4-5 years.
I have an 88 grand am. The original owner made document using a semisynth oil sold by Husky or Esso up to when I bought the car at 189 000 kms. Since I purchased the car i've used semisynth or full syn. With semi at 5000+km interval [approx] I toss the filter and top up oil for one change then second change replace whole oil w/new.
When full syn goes on sale, i'll buy a enough for a few changes and repeat the semisyn change procedure.
At 350,000kms I replace head gasket and engine internals looked mint.
At 460,000kms I replace timing chain guides [UHMW]

I have 556,000 kms [345000 mi] and am finally retiring car only because of chassis rust underneath the car.
Other than that, the engine puffs a bit of blue when changing gears [excessive rpms] runs great still.
I attribute this to the oil and regular changes.
additive guy wrote:
quote:
...All oil needs additives including those mentioned.
If amsoil castrol and mobil 1 made a oil without additives you would pray for companies like sfr and wynn's. Sorry to say but a oil does not become a motor oil approved oil until additives are put in with their base's...


That's (damn) correct!
But, the whole story is about aftermarket additives.
If I (as oil manufacturer, for instance) put all needed quantities of additives into base oil wouldn't you (as user) completely and sometimes even dramatically change that balanced mixture by pouring aftermarket additive?

Regarding that: there is no recommended (aftermarket) additive for synthetic oils!
General Motors is now recommending fuel additives. Just a few years ago they said they don't recommend them and even said they would harm your engine.

Here it is straight from the horse's mouth

"Additives: To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit related problems.

Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels."
@ NISSAN30505

I have a Nissan Z and a Nissan Rogue Both are running with ROYAL PURPLE SYNTHETIC OIL. there's a big dramatic change of Horse power and gas savings. i've taken it to dealer for regular maintenance and they verify that the oil wont Terminate your warranties.


quote:
Originally posted by Nissan350Z:
I was browsing my350z.com and came across this thread it said,

"A couple weeks ago I posted a question regarding the use of synthetic oil. I decided to send Nissan a question asking whether or not synthetic could be used and how that would affect the warranty. Here was their response:

Thank you for contacting Nissan North America, Inc. and allowing us the
opportunity to be of assistance.

Nissan recommends mineral based oils. We do not recommend synthetic oils due
to possible engine damage.

If you have any further questions or comments, please feel free to e-mail
us.

Sincerely,
National Consumer Affairs"

I wanted to get your opinion on this, because I am currently using synthetic oil in my car. I also heard that a test was done that proved that Walmarts brand oil filter (super tech) is pretty damn good. What do you guys think?

I am driving a Nissan 350Z
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