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| Seafoam in Motorcycle crankcase...
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
Yup, it`s me again.
I recently acquired a 1985 Yamaha XV1000 Virago with 32 000 kms on the clock. I have been running Seafoam through the fuel system. I have read various opinions regarding additives in motorcycle crankcases that have wet clutches. On the Virago, the plates are metal. Does anyone have any experience in this regard. |
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Level 5 - 501 to 1000 posts |
I think Sea Foam in the gas is likely OK. It is just 10-20% IPA and pale oil according to the MSDS.
No vehicle manufacturer or oil manufacturer recommends additives in the engine oil. So I wouldn't put it in there. Check out the new AMSOIL Quick Shot gas additive for powersport equipment such as motorcycles. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aqs.aspx?zo=1181889 . Power Point presentation at https://admin.acrobat.com/_a72...t=true&pbMode=normal . Q&A at https://www.amsoil.com/dealer/...e_AQS.pdf?zo=1181889 . |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
Hmmm. Another Amsoil sales promotion?
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Level 3 - 101 to 250 posts |
I would not recommend Seafoam in the crankcase on the Virago. It may thin the oil too much and change the friction characteristics of the clutch. Run a good mineral based oil, such as Rotella. I ran Rotella T in my Honda M/C's. Check out some of the Yamaha boards. That being an older bike, I would not go with a Synthetic as it may be too slippery for the wet clutch.
Dave |
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Level 5 - 501 to 1000 posts |
YUP! +1 Back to the OP, I wouldn't add Seafoam to the oil in your Yamaha. Stick to the spec'd oil, and change it more often. AD US Navy. Helping keep us safe. |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
Thanks Tim, and the others, for your input.
On your recommendations, I won`t be adding to the crankcase. The Yamaha dealer installed their Yamaha brand of 10W30 synthetic oil and it seems to not to be slipping when I boot it up the highway. This bike has way too much power for my needs! Seafoam has been around for decades and seem to have a good following and reputation. As mentioned, I have added to the last 2 tanks of gasoline. I am using Shell gas as they claim to have additives that clean the fuel system. The only thing I have noticed since using Seafoam is that the bike backfires more now when engine braking than it did before. I`m compensating by adding choke, which helps, while driving through town so as not be be too obnoxious, as the bike has non-standard pipes and is VERY loud. It was recommended that a dino oil be used as synthetic may be too slippery for the wet clutch. What are your collective thoughts on using Amsoil`s Motorcycle Oil. Also, what weight would you recommend using in the summer. I appreciated your advice. This message has been edited. Last edited by: inHaliburton, |
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Level 5 - 501 to 1000 posts |
10w30 might be lower viscosity than was factory recommended for a 1985 Yamaha Virago. I would think 20w40 might have been recommended.
If you are concerned with wet clutch slippage, look for a motorcycle specific oil with a JASO MA2 rating. It would have the most friction for wet clutch application. A dino oil or synthetic that meets JASO MA2 would have very similar wet clutch friction, and would make no difference. I think the AMSOIL 10w40 MCF motorcycle oil would be an excellent choice as it is JASO MA2 rated, and is a chemical synthetic which will help clean the engine and keep it that way. I provide this oil to many Yamaha shops and they are very satisfied with it. You can learn more about motorcycle oils and how brands and dino/synthetic compare with each other at http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf?zo=1181889 . This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tim Vipond, |
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Level 1 - 1 to 50 posts |
Dont worry about synthetic oil in a wet clutch. I use Red Line 10-40 high performance motorcycle synthetic in my TRX 450R racing quad. No problems at All since 2007. I beat this thing mercilessly and have had no clutch issues. Some clutch problems are caused by the rider slipping it to much when pulling away from a stop. If the clutch and crank case share a common sump , change it OFTEN regardless of what brand you use.
Genius has limitations. Stupidity is limitless. |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
Thanks for your input, BKL98MK8LSC. |
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Level 5 - 501 to 1000 posts |
Synthetics,including true 100% synthetics that are designed for wet clutches will have the necessary friction modifiers and perform far superior to any mineral based oil. Clutch chatter/wear and other issues will be kept to a minimum with synthetics. No mineral based oil will ever outperform any high quality synthetic lube that meets or exceeds the given spec by the manufacturer of the unit the lube is being installed. Check out the link below. http://www.motor-oil-engineers...theticlubricants.htm For example....I just drained out the OEM lube in my transfer case NV-245(mopar lube/mobilube),and installed amsoil 5w-30 synthetic hydraulic tractor lube(specified). The OEM stuff was mineral based,and now I have 100% synthetic that exceeds the OEM stuff by far! Captain Kirk 2008 JEEP G.C. V-8/2009 MUSTANG V6/2002 VW 1.8T ALL VEHICLES/EQUIPMENT RUNNING WITH SYNLUBE LUBE-4-LIFE |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
Hi Captain, you are certainly a synthetic (oil) keener!
Well, the bike currently has synthetic 10W30 oil in the crankcase. I specified a lighter oil when I bought the bike last December as I rode now and then during the winter. At some point I'll change it out to Amsoil's MC oil, or equivalent. On another subject, I purchased today a 2010 Ford Ranger automatic with the 6 liter engine. I'm saying goodbye to my beloved '05 Focus wagon with 276 000 kms on the odometer. It cost me $1 000 this week, so that's it. The motor just keeps running flawlessly and unless it's my imagination, since running a couple of gas tanks with Seafoam added, it's running quieter and perhaps a little smoother. I'm sad to be getting rid of it, but at the same time I'm looking forward to picking up the Ranger Monday. Any tips on breaking it in? As soon as I pick it up, it will be pulling a 2 000 lb trailer. I'm in the habit of varying speed, rpm and occasionally ringing it out through the gears. When should I switch to synthetic oil? |
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Level 5 - 501 to 1000 posts |
CONGRATS ON YOUR NEW TRUCK!! Towing should be avoided if possible until the engine and drive train break in. You could switch to synthetic now since many engines have synthetic installed at the factory....but.... However,I would say let it run for about 1000 kms and dump the factory fill and add synthetic oil then. The factory fill will serve as break in oil,you'll be fine. Just don't beat the truck. Amsoil has a nice article on why you should change out gear oil at around 8000 kms. http://www.amsoil.com/news/differential_gl_4_06.aspx Happy motoring! Kirk Captain Kirk 2008 JEEP G.C. V-8/2009 MUSTANG V6/2002 VW 1.8T ALL VEHICLES/EQUIPMENT RUNNING WITH SYNLUBE LUBE-4-LIFE |
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Level 5 - 501 to 1000 posts |
What? No mention of using synlube. Surprising for two such advocates of that swill. After all those pages of nonsense about how "good" it is. Anecdotes are useful for stories and tall tales. To make decisions you need data. |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
When you answer the many questions put to you that you have ignored, I'll answer yours.
Well? This message has been edited. Last edited by: inHaliburton, |
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Level 3 - 101 to 250 posts |
InHaliburton, The Ranger with the 4.0 is a good choice. That V-6 is stout. I would change out the Factory Fill about 3000Km. After that run whatever oil you choose. With Ford engines, keep the oil to the proper viscosity. 5W-20 is recommended. Motorcraft's synthetic and a Motorcraft oil filter work just fine in those engines and will go 7500+. If you want to spend more, Amsoil or Mobil 1 are great oils too. That engine will probably be broken in pretty well by 1K. Just my .02 Dave |
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Level 1 - 1 to 50 posts |
If your towing get a big transmission oil cooler as soon as possible. Heat is killer on an automatic. No oil synthetic or otherwise will save the transmission from heat.
Genius has limitations. Stupidity is limitless. |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
BKL98MK8LSC, I picked up the Ranger yesterday. Has the 4 liter V-6 which comes stock with a tranny cooler. Ford agrees with your sentient! |
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Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts |
Thanks for your input, Dave. The 4.0 takes 5W-30 oil, by the way. |
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Level 3 - 101 to 250 posts |
You are welcome. I mainly deal with CVPI's and F-series trucks, they all spec 5w-20. A one-ton trailer is not even going to make that engine sweat. I had a 1990 Ranger with the 2.9 v-6 and it hauled a 2 ton boat/trailer combo with no problem.
Dave |
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