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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
hi everyone, i've been lurking here for about a week and decided to join up, finally. some great info available here.
i'm posting to hear your opinions. i change the oil in both of our cars (my wifes and mine) and would like to hear what you think. in our '96 accord (140k miles) i currently use walmarts synthetic - 10w30. i change it and the filter (fram or w-mart) every 5k miles. in my '87 bmw 325e (275k miles) i currently use mobil 1 15w50 changed at the same intervals as the accord. up until recently though i'd always used whatever dino oil was on sale - but changed it every 2,500 to 3,000 miles. i'm a firm believer in frequent changes. i drive the bmw almost 3k a month so i do a lot of changes, that's why i recently changed to synthetic - for longer intervals. what do you guys think? should i change anything? any suggestions? both car's motor's even with the high miles run great. thanks. |
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
You really don't need to change anything, but here are the obvious suggestions:
Always pick the Supertech walmart filter over the Fram at wal-mart. It is substantially better constucted, and doesn't rely on cardboard to position the anti-drainback valve. The Wal-Mart Supertech synthetic isn't really synthetic, its a Group III oil. That doesn't mean that its a bad oil, the earlier comments on Castrol Syntec apply to it. For 5,000 mile drains, I don't see a problem with it, but your wear metals would probably be nearly identical with a good Group II dino oil like the $1.14/qt Group II Chevron sitting next to it on the shelf. Still, nothing wrong with it though. Since you're racking up miles fast on the BMW, you must be doing lots of highway driving? In anycase, its a good canidate for extended drains. You don't have to, but you could probably run the Mobil 1 (espicially 15W50 since it has a better add. package for 10,000 miles of highway driving. If you wanted to do that, I'd run 7,500 or so, and get an oil analysis...then go from there. What filters are you running on the BMW? Oil consuption? |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
hi, thanks for the feedback.
i did read the castrol thread and suspected maybe the walmart oil was similar and not a "true" synthetic. you really believe a good dino is equal, huh? i guess i better give that some thought.. yes the bmw get's primarily highway mileage. i use fram filters in both cars for the simple reason that my walmart no longer stocks either car's filter in their brand, so i'm forced to buy the fram instead. oil consumption is very low, i might just give the longer drains on the mobil 1 a thought. what brands of dino oil would you recommend for both cars, BTW? i kind of thought they were all the same, that frequent changes were all that really mattered.. |
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
A. Group III oils are somewhat superior to Group II, but there is also additive package to consider. AFAIK, the Wal-Mart SuperTech is OK, but not particulary impressive in additive package. I beleive their dino actually has a stronger additive package than their group III oil. So, although it is speculation, I think that the Supertech Synthetic is more or less tied with the better Group II dino's overall. Espicially, I would assert, at moderate temperatures and operating conditions.
I Personally, I think that most of the dino SL rated oils are practically the same for short intervals of 3,000 miles, or under moderate conditions. Pennzoil and Chevron/Havoline currently have the best base oils (Group II). Castrol GTX turns in very comparable oil analysis reports. Valvoline has a weaker additive package. Quaker State is probably somewhere in the middle. Finally, as much as I've been knocking Group III oils, I'm mainly knocking their price (Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, etc) not their performance...I personally like Rotella Syn 5W40 which is Group III. Also, all of the dino oils are getting better basestocks all the time as standards increase. It is entirely possible that if I were to reanswer this question in a year, under the "SM" standard, Quaker State would have the best additive package, and be entirely Group II+. To make a reccomendation of dino oils: whichever is cheaper between Chevron/Havoline/Pennz in the Honda. I'd use a 15W40 oil in the BWM, since you're using 15W50 as is and the high TBN 15W40's often allow longer drains in gas engines. But, I wouldn't switch to dino if I were you, espicially in the BWM which is a perfect canidate for longer drains. This link may help explain the differences between Group types in oils for you: http://www.exxonmobilchemical.com/Public_Products/Synthetics/Synthetic_Lubricants_and_Fluids/Worldwide/Sales_and_Support/Syn_Sales_FAQs.asp B. Filters. http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/BaseOils/gf4_faq.shtml Maybe, if all you can get at wal-mart is Fram, you might consider stopping at an autoparts store. There are plenty of filter comparisons on the internet, but I'll just link to one: http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/fram.shtml http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/acdelco.shtml http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/purolator.shtml It isn't so much that the Fram will kill your engine...its more that it is obscenely overpriced for what you get. I'd definitely run the SuperTech or regular Purolator if you're trying to save money. The AC Delco and Motorcrafts are good choices if one fits your applications. WIX, Pureone, etc are all fine too...in oil filters the Frams are about the only ones to avoid. |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
thanks for all the info, looks like i have a lot
to peruse. that's too bad about the fram filters, i guess they make they're money on heavy marketing, not surprising. i'll start looking for another brand to run in the cars. on the oil, i guess i'll see what i want to do when it's time to change the oil again in the cars. one thing i've noticed with the mobil 1 is that the car runs cooler according to the temp gauge, which is definitely good, IMO. my engine runs so well i wonder how long it would have lasted had i run mobil 1 from the start, guess i'll never know. |
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Silver Member - 10 or more posts |
Have you taken a look at Amsoil? Especially when you are looking for extended drain intervals. They also have high quality filters as well, so you are not stuck with what Wally World has.
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
i am familiar with amsoil, have heard good things about them. but i have to admit i dont care for their blanket advertising campaign. they may be very legitimate but their way of marketing reminds me the snake oil additives companies, though i'm not in any way implying they dont have a good product. also i consider them too expensive once you add in postage. if i'm gonna spend the money on synthetic i figured i'd go with mobil 1, which is fairly economical and has a great rep.
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Silver Member - 10 or more posts |
If you take advantage of the extended drain interval, Amsoil is cheaper than the petroleum oils, and is a better product than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is a good oil, but is not designed for the extended drains like Amsoil is.
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
actually i'm thinking of trying the rotella syn 15w40 in the bmw next, it seems like a great choice.
what do you think, abus? and maybe 10w30 for the honda? all suggestions appreciated. |
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
There is nothing per say wrong with using Rotella T syn...but it is a step down from Mobil 1. Locally to me, Rotella Syn runs $3.22/qt over the counter, and Mobil 1 (excluding 0W20/0W40/5W40) is just under $4/qt. The difference is not that big in price, so you may or maynot be getting a better overall value.
If you want to stick to 5,000 mile intervals, I suppose the Rotella makes a bit more sense though. What 10W30 are you considering for the Honda? There is only one grade of Rotella syn oil: 5W40. (probably a tad heavy for the Honda) To give a quick shot at reccomendations, you could run Pennszoil/Havoline/Chevron dino, you could run Syntec Blend, or you could run Mobil 1 in the honda. I agree that Amsoil's marketing and price radically reduces its appeal verus Mobil 1. In fact, I'd go as far as to say that based on the Spacebear test linked to earlier, Mobil 1 is capable of some pretty long drains, even compared to Amsoil! Even amsoil reccomends annual oil changes, so for the herds of people driving 15k a year or less, amsoil has no edge on Mobil 1 (espicially against 5W40 Truck and SUV). My comments with regards to Amsoil filters are somewhere else here...I wanted more information as to their superiority to PureOne/Mobil 1 in filtration, and questioned the capacity chart on their site...plus the lack of a silcone ADBV. Their bypass filters maybe fine, but their fullflow models are not great deal by any stretch of the imagination...unless someone wants to bump up my old post and cough up some info? |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
hmmm, you're right i didnt notice that the rotella syn only comes in the one grade. ok here's what i would like to know: what would be your 1st and 2nd choice weight-wise and brand-wise for both cars with 5k oil/filter changes. in dino, synthetic blend, and full synthetic. and thanks!
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
What kind of temperatures will you be driving in?
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
i live in southern GA, so hot and humid summers and winters that occasionally hit the 20's.
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
I have 500,000+ miles on my V6 Accord which has had a steady diet of Mobil-I from day of purchase, still running on the same engine, no overhaul, I have driven it mostly in NY but also other states.
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
Ok, you wanted a first and a second choice in dino, blend and syn oils....here goes:
In the Toyota, 140,000 is nothing mileagewise, so even in GA, you probably can stick with 10W30. If the manual says 5W30, I'd ignore that on the grounds that you aren't exposed to cold weather, the mileage difference is insignificant for most users, and 5W30 is less sheer stable. Dino: (hange somewhere between 3-5k miles) Chevron/Havoline (they are the same oil, different bottle) Pennzoil. Blends: (I don't personally advise this route, in general, as the price of most of the blends is in the same neighboorhood as SuperTech syn or Rotella Syn) Castrol Blend or High Mileage blend from Wal-Mart. Finally syn oils. For the sake of simplicity, I'm leaving the Group III oils in here. Mobil 1 (in 10W30) is the best choice, unless you have some problem such as oil consuption that you're trying to fix, or the car doesn't seem to run well on it. At which point, I'd either try the 5W40 if you can find it, or German made Castrol Syntec 0W30 (actually a good bit thicker than Mobil 1's xW30 oils when hot. The other choice in syn oil would be to keep on with the wal-mart syn oil. If you're changing it out at say, 6-7k or less you would be fine. The BMW. Dino. 15W40 unless there is an oil pressure or consuption problem, at which point 20W50. Use any of the name brand 15W40's. Right now, I haven't seen enough data to know which of the new CI-4 rated versions is the best...but traditionally: Delo, Delvac, and Long Life. I have no experence with blends in this weight at all...I know that Castrol makes one, but the specs are kinda weak. So, I'd reccomend Rotella T syn oil as the medium priced option. Syn oils. Mobil 1 15W50. (I have utterly no doubt that this is what I would use. I would extend oil drains with it to make it cost-effective and laugh my way to the bank every oil change buying it at walmart for ~$3.75 a quart) Delvac 1/Mobil 1 Truck and SUV or Amsoil 15W40 are the backup choices. Most of the choices are pretty arbitrary, in that the dino oils are pretty much neck and neck and the current formulation shifts to CI-4 and SM make it harder to reccomend oils. Do let us know what you use, how it works out, etc. |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
thanks for all the info, abus. i'll write some of those down as future choices. on the syn blend i'm kind of sceptical, i cant seem to find the actual percentage of sythetic on the bottle on any of the ones i've looked at. i've heard rumors that only 10% is actually synthetic, which is rediculous, IMO.
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
Try using BOSCH oil filters instead of FRAM next time you change your oil, they use a highert grade filter paper and filter much better, the only problem is that you have to change them more frequently.
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
I'm not certain if it is the same worldwide, but in North America, the Bosch filter is a Champion labs product...bascially a slightly improved supertech filter. Nothing against Bosch per say, I like Champion labs filters, but for my money, all of the Champion filters with the exception of Mobil 1 filters are about the same...I tend to use the Supertech or AC-Delco's the most.
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
Thanks for the info on BOSCH filters, out here in India they are made in Germany and are of really good quality. I have heard great things about Mobil-I filters but sadly they are not marketed here at all.
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Double Platinum Member - 100 or more posts |
Are Purolator filters marketed in your area? The PureOne filter is probably the closest over the counter equivalent to the Mobil 1...and for about half the price at ~$5.
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