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Silver Member - 10 or more posts |
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Premium Member - 250 or more posts |
I have averaged 3000 or less most of my life on dino oil. Occasionally I get out to 3500 or so. I am interested in extending my oil changes if I can find an easy way to evaluate the oil (am thinking of blotter tests). Not interested in synthetics for extended changes though.
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
quote: You can go by how "gritty" the oil feels. But i advise you to goto synthetic, it really does help! i was skeptical too 2003 Audi A4 1.8TQ Amsoil 0W-30 Synthetic Amsoil Full Flow synthetic/cellulose filter. |
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Premium Member - 250 or more posts |
Two things that intrigue me about synthetic oils are the superior cold flow and that you can get an oil that meets a multigrade spec without any added viscosity index improvers. Still I am reluctant to go that route. Can't say if it is fears of increasing leakage (from the slipperier oil) or the cost. I have been thinking of "juicing up" my oil (use 10w40 for better oil pressure) for cold startability by adding a quart of synthetic. Not sure it matters though, since I am in Detroit where it normally doesn't go below zero and for overnight I plug in a 250 watt oil pan heater, which works very nicely. Just those after work starts where at 10F it took three seconds for the oil pressure gauge (mechanical) to leave zero. No mechanical noise though. Suppose I could try it sometime just to see, but also the oil will still get dirty, whether synthetic or not, right? And that could limit the OCI. Does synthetic affect oil pressure differently than dino? I suspect not.
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Gold Member - 25 or more posts |
Adding a quart of Synthetic to petroleum is not going to give you noticeable results. Further, since petroleum oil degrades much faster than does Synthetic, you synthetic will begin to degrade much faster too; by having 80%, based on 4:1 ratio, petro to synthetic, your normal operating temps will be much higher b/c of the petro, drain intervals will be much sooner (even Petro Canada with their Hy-dro Cracked Petroleum Oils, they may get really good results over the short term but I don't think they have developed an oil that will get the extended drains yet ). If you use a synthetic, whatever name-brand you choose, use an Amsoil Full-flow filter, they filter at 4-6 microns and will keep you oil much cleaner. P.S. If you are waiting until your oil feels "gritty" to change it, IMHO, you are waiting way too long ! I change oil every 35K miles and it never feels gritty. I do change the filter every 12K miles also.
Email: lubes4u@myexcel.com 'Rider Support' (C.)918-636-1281 |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
I change it way sooner, i'm just saying.
btw, SynLube's Microglass filter is even better than Amsoils, it has a 100% synthetic media and is even more efficent (www.synlube.com) 2003 Audi A4 1.8TQ Amsoil 0W-30 Synthetic Amsoil Full Flow synthetic/cellulose filter. |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
If you are seriously interested in extending your oil drain intervals, I would suggest you use oil analysis. Then you can determine without a doubt which oils are going to give you the performance you're looking for. Also, use a good quality filter.
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
Does anyone know of a lab which will perform an analysis of oil samples? At an reasonable affordable rate for personal vehicles.
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Silver Member - 10 or more posts |
Yes, I've used Blackstone Labratories, for $20 you get a basic analysis.
bstone@blackstone-labs.com |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
Daniel 411-- Caterpiller tractor co. does oil samples on any kind of oil. I used them for years before I retired & found they were the best & were only $8 a sample.We brought several million $ worth of machines from them & maybe that was why it was $8. Might want to check into that.
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Gold Member - 25 or more posts |
Hey Jon V. ! I see you are from Hesperia, CA; I believe that's the home of Travis Preston, AMA Supercross 125 West Champion. Is that correct or do you know ?
'Rider Support' (C.)918-636-1281 |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
Sorry, I don't follow motorcycle stuff. Next weekend they are having rock crawling contests in Johnson valley. Lot's of offroad racers live out here in the desert.
I use CTC analytical in Sparks NV for all my oil analysis. Great service and cost effective. |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
P.S. If you are sampling your engine oil, always have the lab include the test for TBN
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
Why ask for TBN with a gasoline engine analysis ?
Thats primarily for diesel engines . Use insoluables and oxidation - nitration to gauge your engine condition and how far you might go on the next interval .That is why most labs offer kits without TBN . Just call one and ask them about this if in doubt . |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
quote: ANA Laboritories , NJ ----- 10 dollars . If you have a diesel engine another 2 dollars gets you tbn . That is who I use anyway . www.analaboritories.com |
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Platinum Member - 50 or more posts |
Your poll is not really what you should be asking. An oil analysis will say whether or not it should be changed or what should be done. My last one said "No Correcive Action Required, suitable For Continued Service". That's after 13,000 kms in five months.That's good news if a warranty issue comes up.
RH |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
My Navistar F350 diesel pickup has one set of rules and my Subaru has another.
Diesel - 5,000 on Rotella T 15-40 Subaru - about 8,000 on Havoline Syn - spring (sample) & fall Ususally an annual oil sample is done. Average ownership is 18 years. I haven't had a lubrication failure in 40 years. |
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Gold Member - 25 or more posts |
It seems somewhat apparent that many folks are feeling a little more comfortable with up to 5,000 mile drains and that 3,000 mile drains is no longer a tremendous burden. Personally, I believe this to be to the overall quality of oils on the market today, higher standards overall, possibly the quality of newer engines built today and improved filtration. Oh, let me not forget more informed end-users like most on this board.
Kevin Alexander, Claremore, OK 'Rider Support' (C.)918-636-1281 |
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Bronze Member - 1 or more posts |
On this side of the water (England) it is recommended that oil is changed at up to 10,000 mile intervals. I keep hearing that in the States you are still changing your oils at between 3-5,000 miles. I own 2 Jeeps - a Cherokee and a Grand Cherokee both on the 4ltr engines. the recommended change interval is 7,500 miles. I wonder what the American recommendation is???
Are our oils better than yours? - I doubt it so why the differences? I also hear a lot of critism aimed at the after market additives (snake oils) and yet Jeep recommend and sell a friction modifier additive for the axles if towing. Anybody out there know what this additive is?? |
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Gold Member - 25 or more posts |
Most of the cars in the states are now recommending 7,500 mile intervals and some are at 10,000; the indoctrination of Quick-lubes has gotten many folks to thinking that if they don't change at 3,000 mile intervals, somehow their vehicle is going to croak. I think it's great that folks are becoming more and more knowledgeable about extended drains and I believe they will continue to extend even further out as time goes on and it becomes more of the norm. As for Friction Mods in Gear Oils - that should be fine unlike many engines mfr.'s do not recommend any aftermarket additives; there's a series of articles in "Lubes-n-Greases" now talking about the aftermarket additives and extended oil drains being an "Ethical Burden"; the writer is pretty harsh on the Car Mfr.'s for not coming forward with more extended drains based on the quality of oils on the market today.
'Rider Support' (C.)918-636-1281 |
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