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I often hear folks ask what to do about a short trip vehicle and the typical advice is to take it on a long freeway run periodically. So that does not really help?

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It really depends now on lot on each specific case. If you accumulate water in your oil (creamy white sludge on oil filler cap) regularly, I'd change the oil every 6 months. To use a synthetic oil is a waste of money in this case. Even the best oil can't withstand these conditions for long. I have seen a case with 80% city cycle driving and 20% autobahn driving (both in km) in total 6.500 km with a longlife oil - the oil analysis was a desaster. It looked like as if it was driven for 50.000 km high speed driving.
If you do not see "white sludge" in your engine, the oil ages most of the time in a "normal way". In this case you may increase your service interval with a synthetic oil compared to a dino oil.

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Originally posted by Callisa:
[QUOTE] If you do not see "white sludge" in your engine, the oil ages most of the time in a "normal way". In this case you may increase your service interval with a synthetic oil compared to a dino oil.

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Thanks. No white sludge. Of course, with a 0.3 meter long oil filler neck, snaking almost horizontally to an accessible, it may not be apparent. But I think I am all right on that. The engine seems to warm up quick and run hot (partly due to the tight engine slot, no engine bay here), I'll see if I can get synthetic to run clean for long enough as the first load dirtied up in about 4 months (1600 miles/ ~2400 km?).

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Originally posted by MGBV8:
I assume this is test

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

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Yes .

Paul ,

Engine ping will harm effective ring seal and will make an oil look dirty quick from combustion particulates .

Also , some additives used in certain oils will darken when heated .

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Http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

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Hehehehe, this is a funny test! I made a lot of research work on the shown Dana Wix filter. The deviation shown on the particle side is the same like the media has. Are you now testing oils or testing oilfilters from a single production batch?

The true testing of an oil is to take a batch of production engines coming from the same line,
tear down the new engines and measure critical parts, reassemble them, run each of them for at least 300-400 hrs with one oil, and then do engine tear down. You also have to take some statistics of your measurement into consideration.

This test is nice, but not a scientific wear test.
A power improvement of 15% with an additive....

Back to the topic .

As new additives have come out and when companies are willing to use them I think it's evident that old pao/ester oils can be beat by group III /pao oils w/5% ester . The other slack wax group III with ester makes for good oil but I do not see companies give them big additization due to cost in all probability .

Esters a name for many different types of it . I'm not a chemist but if making an oil I'd sure try to use some d-basic in there along with pao and slack wax or other group III . D-basic gives oils great lubricity even when used in small amounts .

It's funny , the better 5-10 synthetic oils out there come at 1/2 the price of some other high end oils .

Some of these gasoline engines with light ring tension and short piston skirts need the oil dumped fairly often anyway . One key to success is knowing if you own one of these engines then pick a suitable oil and oil change interval for it .

hi ive always used mobil one had a 88 z28 and i drove it hard and i mean hard i had compression test done and at 190k it was as new i bought a kia spectra ive used mobil one from day one as well at 95k engine oil is like new now im a big fan. theres alot of info here what is best oil for my car price being no option ? what about filters whats top filter out there thanks for help

If you want the very best filter available short of a bypass system then consider CM Filters

"There's still something missing here", as in the Chrysler ad. It's my opinion, and I know there's enough to go around, there's synthetics and petroleum oils that are better for some applications than others and vise-versa.
I would like to say "If you can find a better oil, buy it", but that would only stir the pot, not solve anything.
RH