quote:Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Well, Now I will be accused of using MMO/Seafoam/Auto-RX by our favorite troll Honest Injun, this 10HP Briggs has never seen oil treatment, except for somewhat regular OCI. She's not real quiet, but It can handle a 30+ amp load with out even bogging down.
I am sorry to say Dave...but your credibility is damaged because of the lawn mower photos you showed at the start of this thread...where you forgot to mention the engine not only had sludge that you flushed out first,but more importantly.......THE ENGINE IN THE PHOTO IS ACTUALLY SHOT!
JUST A REMINDER WITH THE LINK
I have an 8 year old Craftsman (AYP) heavy duty lawn tractor that is developing some sludge/varnish. Last season, it was filled with Rotella-T 15W-40 HDEO. Well, it don't like thick oil. It burned it at about 8 oz. per week (10-12 hours). Now that I am a BITOG'er, I want to clean her up and thought about this method:
When I get time, I will tear it down and rebuild it.
B&S recommends their "warranty certified hd 30wt oil" nothing on bottle to suggest it is syn/blend/conventional. Burns thru it like no tomorrow.
This is the other story showing the opposite
Remember........the engine is shot and had sludge/varnish that was pre-cleaned for the "PHOTO SHOOT"......and the OP-ED by dave
When story lines change that fast and that much........who knows what to believe. My guess,the valve rocker in the photo, and the valve cover were first sprayed down with carb/brake cleaner,dried off,and then..........photo taken to show Kirk(me) how good dino/mineral oil is.
NICE PIECE OF WORK DAVE! AIN'T GONNA BUY IT!
You could have at least tried to fool me and left some slightly darkened used oil dripping off things. But with everything bone dry, and artificially shiny,clean and obviously stripped of any residual oil.............. FAHGETTABOUDIT!!!