DAD2LEIA: Here are some points to remember concerning the things that make you uncomfortable with SynLube.
1) You state that "the oil base itself is not what goes bad, it is the additive package depletion and wear metal build up that warrants oil changes."
Actually, the additive package is there to protect the base oil and when that package has deteriorated, the base oil will indeed deteriorate by forming byproducts with the combustion blow-by and water that forms during cold starts.
In contrast SynLube is composed of inert ingredients that don't interact with these contaminants. Consequently, the oil doesn't have the same deficiencies as regular oil. Also when you're selling an oil for $32 a quart, the additive package can be a lot better than one for an oil that costs $2 on an autoparts shelf. Also remember, that $32 does not include a cut for a middle man. More of your money goes for the oil and less for distribution costs.
2) With regard to cost, SynLube is almost always cheaper in the long run. Compare your costs over a 150K miles compared to SynLube. As I pointed out, compared to the standard 3K OCI at a Jiffy Lube, the SynLube had paid for itself after 24K miles or so. That includes the quart of Service Fill I would need.
3) You contend that "it is not possible to have a lifetime lubricant that doesn't require a complete drain and refill with fresh." I agree, the interval for SynLube is just much, much longer than for other oils. I would also point out that the stated service intervals are about half of what the lubricant can really last for. The oil will hardly be "tired" after 10 years, 150K miles or 3K engine hours.
4) The "lifetime" part of the SynLube claim is based on the life of the vehicle as submitted to the government, not the actual amount of time that the vehicle will provide service. Many vehicles are have a 70K service life based on the anticipated ability of the vehicle to maintain clean emissions.
5) And will there be a wear metal build-up? Not necessarily. The SynLube system includes strong neodymium magnets that will put the particles out of circulation should they occur. However my personal experience has been that this isn't a problem. As I pointed out, I pulled the CM oil filter I use out and disassembled it. Those two strong magnets had nothing on them at all. That was after about 28-30K miles. There was no evidence of sludge and the filter looked almost brand new. It filters down to 8 microns. I would also point out that wear is almost nonexistant because SynLube adds a second dimension to the oil in the solid lubricants that are embossed into the surface of the metals during use. Consequently during a cold start, there is no "dry" lubrication where the majority of metal wear particles are created.
Finally, we keep getting back to the tests and I have to say, a really reliable test requires the expenditure of a couple hundred dollars and it requires someone who is familiar with the oil to adjudge it properly.
But what value do these tests have, really? No very much, practically. I took the risk and I sweated out the first few thousand miles after I would normally have changed the oil on a 2001 Ford Focus. Like many, I liked to change the oil at 3-5K miles. I can't imagine how many times, I had the dipstick out to check consumption and to see if the oil still looked normal. The reality is that confidence comes with time.
When people express doubts about SynLube, it all boils down to asking how I could be getting the results I'm getting if the SynLube wasn't doing everything that's claimed for it. Look at the mileage and oil consumption? You're not going to get those results with an oil that isn't really working properly.