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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

I have heard that about varnish too. Most of it is due to suspended contaminants that stick to surfaces.

Mower still starts, runs, cuts grass and doesn't smoke (unlike me, bad habit, I know).

Still haven't figured out why it uses oil every 8 hours or so. No fouling on plugs, muffler/exhaust has normal carbon, no external leaks.

Maybe I should try some Slime/Fix a Flat in it Big Grin Darn B&S engines will probably run with roofing tar in the crankcase.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
So you can't explain why the B&S motor looks so good using dino.

You still fail to show that mineral is a bad oil.

It must be galling that GM's 2010 V6 Camaro uses dino oil.



This is the story about the same motor,that dave said has sludge varnish......

<<<<<<<I have an 8 year old Craftsman (AYP) heavy duty lawn tractor that is developing some sludge/varnish. Last season, it was filled with Rotella-T 15W-40 HDEO. Well, it don't like thick oil. It burned it at about 8 oz. per week (10-12 hours). Now that I am a BITOG'er, I want to clean her up and thought about this method:>>>>>>>>>

This is the link that that shows the real story about daves mower engine/with sludge......


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Bottom line.......Dave/trajen.........cleaned up the engine first,and then posted the pictures to give the false impression that it was always that clean just using plain vanilla mineral motor oil.

NOW WHY WOULD DAVE/TRAJEN DISTORT THE FACTS LIKE THAT IN JUST TWO MONTHS TIME???
My mowers,and all my other engines have ZERO VARNISH,ZERO SLUDGE.

I don't use any cleaners or flushes like dave/trajen does...the synthtetic oil I use keeps it very,very clean.......period.

I also don't lie or make up bogus story stories to serve some twisted agenda like some are doing here on this and other threads!

I provide Just the plain old facts,and nothing else!

Kirk
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I have heard that about varnish too. Most of it is due to suspended contaminants that stick to surfaces.

Mower still starts, runs, cuts grass and doesn't smoke (unlike me, bad habit, I know).

Still haven't figured out why it uses oil every 8 hours or so. No fouling on plugs, muffler/exhaust has normal carbon, no external leaks.

Maybe I should try some Slime/Fix a Flat in it Big Grin Darn B&S engines will probably run with roofing tar in the crankcase.

Dave


Big Grin Those B&S things are the Timex of mower engines
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Still haven't figured out why it uses oil every 8 hours or so. No fouling on plugs, muffler/exhaust has normal carbon, no external leaks.


Dave/trajan........The oil use is proof that the mower engine is worn and the oil is sneaking past the worn piston wrings from lack of high temperature protection that the dino/mineral oil failed to adequately provided compared to synthetic oil for a hot running air cooled engine.

Synthetic oil will give much longer life in a hot running air cooled engine. We are talking about 16-36 oz of oil give or take,so cost is nothing.

Using several ounces of oil over an 8 hour period is a very worn engine.

Now we can officially conclude the mower is worn out technically...even though it might still run......and by your own admission also had sludge and varnish to boot.

So much for Dino/mineral oil doing what you originally claimed it did for that engine.

The briggs engine on your mower tehcnically needs a rebuild to put it back into spec., otherwise you might anger Al Gore with all those pollutants being spewed into the air.


I had worn/tired mower engines years ago that ran on mineral oil........and they all used oil when they were worn out-of-spec...just like any other engine including a car engine.

My present mower engines...and car engines all use ZERO OIL,and have ZERO SLUDGE OR VARNISH running on my favorite synthetic oil. The oil dipsticks are shiny and bright...including the mower oil dipstick. The mower engine has virtually no carbon. I will have to get pictures of this to show.

My last mower fell apart around the perfect birggs engine with no oil changes over seven years of grass cutting. The oil dipstick was bright and shiny,and that engine also used ZERO OIL. 7 HP OHV BRIGGS.

Kirk
I did not clean up the motor as claimed, although I did run a different HDMO before pulling the covers.

I have figured out the oil control ring is wearing, as the engine has over 1200 hours on an engine that was designed for about 5-600 hours max. It is a consumer grade engine, not a commercial engine. When I get time, I will tear it down and rebuild it. Most of the time when engines have bad rings, they smoke pretty good, as oil is getting past the rings and into the combustion chambers. This one does not smoke, except for black smoke on choked start (running rich). B&S recommends their "warranty certified hd 30wt oil" nothing on bottle to suggest it is syn/blend/conventional. Burns thru it like no tomorrow.

Yes, mower is rusting, as I wash it off after every job (dog poop in tires mainly). I also pull the shrouds and clean grass and dirt from cooling fins several times during the season.

Kirk, how many hours you have on your Briggs? In FL from Mar. til October, grass grows so fast, you can watch it. I mow 2X a week. Sharpen blades at least twice a month. Bahia grass and sandy soil erode the edge and sails quickly.

My main problem is ethanol gas destroying the carburetors on my 2 strokers...

dave
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
My mowers,and all my other engines have ZERO VARNISH,ZERO SLUDGE.

I don't use any cleaners or flushes like dave/trajen does...the synthtetic oil I use keeps it very,very clean.......period.

I also don't lie or make up bogus story stories to serve some twisted agenda like some are doing here on this and other threads!

I provide Just the plain old facts,and nothing else!

Kirk


Any pictures of your OPE internals? I opened mine. Taking the head/valve cover off in a lawn mower is simple.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
My mowers,and all my other engines have ZERO VARNISH,ZERO SLUDGE.

I don't use any cleaners or flushes like dave/trajen does...the synthtetic oil I use keeps it very,very clean.......period.

I also don't lie or make up bogus story stories to serve some twisted agenda like some are doing here on this and other threads!

I provide Just the plain old facts,and nothing else!

Kirk


Any pictures of your OPE internals? I opened mine. Taking the head/valve cover off in a lawn mower is simple.

Dave


I will get some pictures of all my equipment when I get around to it.

Kirk
Here is my cheapo Troy-Bilt 5550 Watt Generator. I bought it in May 2004 (just before Florida had 4 hurricane hits in the summer.) Has about 350 hours on it. First hurricane, house had no power for 10 days. Changed the factory fill after 2 straight days (48 hours). Changed again after 3 days, then again after the mains were restored. Only saw B&S warranty certified HD30 dino oil. A month later, power out for a week (7 days). Oil changed once during that spell. Again B&S oil. the next 2 'canes we had power out for about 8-10 hours. Need the genny as our septic system has an effluent pump. It ran a 28 cu ft refrigerator, microwave, little 6K BTU window A/C unit and other things during that time.

At least 2 times a month, I run it with about a 25 amp load. Starts on the second pull. First pull is a slow pull to get fuel to carb. Second is full on.

This is only a 10Hp OHV standard Briggs engine with splash/slinger lube.

It has only seen mineral based oil. Mostly B&S oil. Current fill is Pennzoil HD 30 wt. Has never seen any oil treatment. I do run SeaFoam or Sta-bil in the gas, as it sits for long times. I have also dumped old 40:1 2-cycle oil mix in it's tank. Has never had any additives in the crankcase. It has never seen synthetic oil either.

[URL= ]Overview[/URL]

[URL= ]Rockers, first time I have pulled the cover[/URL]

[URL= ]Inside valve cover[/URL]

[URL= ]Start of Tear Down[/URL]
Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Well, Now I will be accused of using MMO/Seafoam/Auto-RX by our favorite troll Smile Honest Injun, this 10HP Briggs has never seen oil treatment, except for somewhat regular OCI. She's not real quiet, but It can handle a 30+ amp load with out even bogging down.

Dave


I am sorry to say Dave...but your credibility is damaged because of the lawn mower photos you showed at the start of this thread...where you forgot to mention the engine not only had sludge that you flushed out first,but more importantly.......THE ENGINE IN THE PHOTO IS ACTUALLY SHOT!


JUST A REMINDER WITH THE LINK

I have an 8 year old Craftsman (AYP) heavy duty lawn tractor that is developing some sludge/varnish. Last season, it was filled with Rotella-T 15W-40 HDEO. Well, it don't like thick oil. It burned it at about 8 oz. per week (10-12 hours). Now that I am a BITOG'er, I want to clean her up and thought about this method:

When I get time, I will tear it down and rebuild it.

B&S recommends their "warranty certified hd 30wt oil" nothing on bottle to suggest it is syn/blend/conventional. Burns thru it like no tomorrow.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


This is the other story showing the opposite

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...=1861000#Post1861000

Remember........the engine is shot and had sludge/varnish that was pre-cleaned for the "PHOTO SHOOT"......and the OP-ED by dave



When story lines change that fast and that much........who knows what to believe. My guess,the valve rocker in the photo, and the valve cover were first sprayed down with carb/brake cleaner,dried off,and then..........photo taken to show Kirk(me) how good dino/mineral oil is.

NICE PIECE OF WORK DAVE! AIN'T GONNA BUY IT!

You could have at least tried to fool me and left some slightly darkened used oil dripping off things. But with everything bone dry, and artificially shiny,clean and obviously stripped of any residual oil.............. FAHGETTABOUDIT!!!


Kirk
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Well, Now I will be accused of using MMO/Seafoam/Auto-RX by our favorite troll Smile Honest Injun, this 10HP Briggs has never seen oil treatment, except for somewhat regular OCI. She's not real quiet, but It can handle a 30+ amp load with out even bogging down.

Dave


Don't forget the ever popular claim you, me, and everyone else who doesn't agree with him are the same poster.

Kirk old son, you have no credibility.
The only reason the rockers are dry, is that it has not been started in a few days. Look at the gasket, there is some goop on it. Not saying it is surgically clean, but that Briggs and Stratton know what they are doing, building engines.

No smoke and mirrors here. Take a good look at the oil galleries on the bottom of the rockers. about the size of an American Nickel (5 cent piece).

I would never spray carb cleaner in the valve train, not good for me, but then I would not use left over pencil shavings (synlube) in my engine either.

Think what you want Kirk. I will take a CVSA to prove you different. Forget a Polygraph, too easy to beat.

Dave
I even posted an apology on BITOG. If they think I am a shill, looser, liar, whatever, then Helen can ban me.

This genny was pulled out of the garage, opened up and photographed. It was not run. Not a good idea to pull rocker covers when engine is hot, but Kirk would not understand that.

I stand by my post. I do not use a non-certified oil. Call me a liar, or what ever. The facts are there. At least I take pictures Smile

Dave
My Generac looks basicly the same as yours inside the valve cover. I have a larger engine that is pressurized with a filter. I don't believe I have nearly as many hours. I have not truly needed mine in a couple of years so it has been sitting until recently when I had a transfer switch installed and fired it up performing maintenance etc to be sure it would be ready to go in case it was needed.

If you have not done it yet check and adjust your valve lash, mine was way out of spec when I checked them. Intake was extremely loose and exhaust was to tight. I could not tell a difference at light loads but when I am after 12kw of surge it will make a difference.
quote:
This genny was pulled out of the garage, opened up and photographed. It was not run. Not a good idea to pull rocker covers when engine is hot, but Kirk would not understand that.


Sure,I used to be SUN-SNAP ON REP,I do all my own maintenance,have a ton of tools,but don't understand hot engines.


And Dave...what does this remark of yours say/prove about your real motive

quote:
I would never spray carb cleaner in the valve train, not good for me, but then I would not use left over pencil shavings (synlube) in my engine either.

So DAVE......according to your above remark...why are my engines running flawlessly with, as you say,....."PENCIL SHAVINGS" ???

Do you have an issue with colloids,or synlube(you mentioned it)...... even though colloids are industry proven and used by many brands of oil,not just the one I happen to use with great results.

People have been running straight 30 Wt in small engines for years now,big deal. What exactly is your photo supposed to prove with regard to a $40,000 car/suv,and a $5,000-$10,000 or more replacement cost for the engine. What does a 190CC air cooled hot running toy engine have in common with a modern day car engine that also happens to have sophisticated emission systems that the toy in the photo does not!

Car engines see short trips,incomplete warm-ups,condensation and moisture laden oil,emission system issues,all of which can lead to sludge,wear,corrosion(acid), and erosion(friction) based wear. That is why all those car engines were sludging up. I never mentioned air cooled lawn mower engine sludge. Although I did drop a link showing why synthetic is better in air cooled engines.

I see no reason to try and save a few pennies installing cheap dino oil in a tiny little air cooled engine which only uses 16 oz of oil just to try and prove a meaningless point When synthetic oil is already been proven better even in those engines........BECAUSE THEY RUN SO STINKING HOT!!!!

Why are all the small engine manufactures now recommending synthetic if dino oil is good enough according to you?? ANSWER.......THE SMALL, AIR COOLED ENGINES RUN HOT, AND SYNTHETIC CAN HANDLE HEAT, MUCH,MUCH BETTER!
This link addresses the issues that air cooled engines have and why they need synthetic.........because they run hot.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html


And for generators......

http://www.genspringparts.com/id16.html


This would be a dedicated 4-stroke oil that is better suited for a typical mower engine.
Remember.those small engines don't have emission systems or cats,so the oil can have all the anti-wear additives that car oil cannot. The amsoil in the link below is actually very good for a 4-stroke engine.

http://www.syntheticoilmart.co...e_10w-30_sae_30.html

I personally do not recommend using modern day automotive grade motor oil in a small air cooled engine........unless it is racing or off road preferably synthetic motor oil loaded with ZINC......or the stuff you guys like to knock, that is,........in all my small engines, and all are running perfect.
Last edited by captainkirk
And what engines would those be? You've made a great many claims, Almost all of which have been debunked.

From a locked thread at bitog called synlube 4 life, the results are here, (a thread which showed none.), to locked threads here.

From claiming that all those class action suits against Mercedes, Toyota, VW, et al were because of the oil, (of which you offer no proof.), to posting a great many threads about how oil is the cause of sludge, (all of which have been debunked. 19K on a 5w-30 in a turbo diesel and it's the oil's fault it sludged.)

And then, to top it all, the continuing, bogus, childish, accusation that all the people who don't buy into the nonsense you're selling are the same person. (As is typical of you, no proof.)

Should I mention the clean engines shown here. The ones that use mineral oil? The ones you can't explain.

Should I mention all the group III oils that are used day after day without problems?

Should I mention how your own links show time and time again that it's bad engine design, or idiot/cheap owners, and not what you claim?

Should I mention that not one car maker will use unrated oil? Or how the stuff you try to peddle can't even match the viscosity it claims to?

How you can't stay on topic? (we're still waiting for the explaination of what a fuel additive has to do with crankcase oil.)

How you only read bits and pieces and then post replies that don't hold up?

How you don't even read your own links? (Like the turbo diesel one? Or the one in which Nissan paid for engine repairs. All you saw in that one was again, someone blaming oil for owner/car maker stupidity. shame you had no comment.)

In short, you are a troll who thinks the only oil worth using is this unrated, unproven, inconsistent swill called synlube.)

And by now, you should have realized that no one is going to take any recommendation from you.

Unless they want to laugh.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
And what engines would those be? You've made a great many claims, Almost all of which have been debunked.


TRAJAN.........I have yet to see you debunk squat!!!!!!!

Remember,I have uncovered all the facts presented thus far.......including the worn out,sludged/varnished mower engine...............that no one else caught,except for me...as usual. I like getting to the truth by uncovering the facts!

So far,by my count,I have all the credibility on this forum.......and you have.....ZERO.

Remember Trajan,you too have also been caught lying.

I Have only presented the hard core, scientific, indisputable facts....... and you, don't like it!!

I guess as the saying goes...........THE TRUTH HURTS.......especially when the "other guy"(me),thought of it first. OH Well!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Should I mention the clean engines shown here. The ones that use mineral oil? The ones you can't explain.


Let me explain all to well about the so called clean......I mean sludged up, shot engines that were shown to give the illusion of being sound and clean.

The proof again....quoting dave who said the engine was clean on page 1 of this very thread.

I have an 8 year old Craftsman (AYP) heavy duty lawn tractor that is developing some sludge/varnish. Last season, it was filled with Rotella-T 15W-40 HDEO. Well, it don't like thick oil. It burned it at about 8 oz. per week (10-12 hours). Now that I am a BITOG'er, I want to clean her up and thought about this method:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


There's your proof!!
quote:
Originally posted by Taterandnoodles:
My Generac looks basicly the same as yours inside the valve cover. I have a larger engine that is pressurized with a filter. I don't believe I have nearly as many hours. I have not truly needed mine in a couple of years so it has been sitting until recently when I had a transfer switch installed and fired it up performing maintenance etc to be sure it would be ready to go in case it was needed.

I f you have not done it yet check and adjust your valve lash, mine was way out of spec when I checked them. Intake was extremely loose and exhaust was to tight. I could not tell a difference at light loads but when I am after 12kw of surge it will make a difference.


Tater,you did not say what kind of oil you used and so forth.

However,the loose valve lash that occurs with use is always due to wear,barring being setup at the factory. I personally spoke to a briggs tech several years ago and he told me that synthetic is the way to go and it greatly reduces or eliminates valve lash issues and the need for adjustments.

Kirk
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
@Moderators: Please use your BAN hammer on Kirk...Thank You.



The one thing I can't figure out up to this point,NUKE.........is why the MODS have not dropped the ban hammer on you,of all characters.

If this link below and all your posts ain't reason enough to be banned,with you being the poster boy of who should be banned,I'm not sure what would be....reason enough........you absolutely take the cake bro!

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...rtType=1&u=815109593
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
@Moderators: Please use your BAN hammer on Kirk...Thank You.


Nucleardawg, you are so very predictable. I just knew that as I read the past few pages that there would eventually be a post by you wanting the thread locked, somebody banned, etc. Your usual POINTLESS, inane, insulting, brainless, goofy stuff. It's not your business to instruct the people who run this Board.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
No all my posts say...I like slapping dorks like you 2 turds.

In a battle of wits...you 2 turds come in unarmed and defenseless.

Now go back to what you do...'copy and paste' as you have no original thoughts of your own.


Those are just the facts


Here is an original thought......Nulcleardork can't deal with the facts and/or the truth if it doesn't fit with his primitive brain and it's crude level of thinking!


So this is an opinion thread only according to you,where only your opinions are allowed,and no one dares disagree with the dawg using facts with fact based links. Only dogma,opinion, and lies are permitted so as to bash the thinking ones who bring all the facts. Burn the books mentality..like back in the medieval days is your take,and also kill the messenger.

Facts are not allowed nor are the hyperlinks to support those facts with even more facts is what you're saying,unless of course you happen to agree with the initial assertion,which in my case you never do,just because it's me, and you have personal issues with me and that's your issue,not mine. How is the heartburn doing!

In my world.....LINKS=INFORMATION=FACTS....AND....OPINION=OPINION

Opinions are fine if they have the facts to support them,as I have done many times over,and you don't like it.......too bad! What's the matter,can't handle the truth!

Nuke,you are the doll with the pull string,and now I just pulled your string again......and now we will see and listen to more mindless chatter from you,nuke,I am sure of it,since, I have not heard one original fact based post from you ever.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Hey Kirk don't you own a V6 Mustang? Your so bad


The wife owns that.......paid cash my friend......same goes for the Jeep!

You see, I don't have a middle age crisis car like you do,I am not there yet like you are,and my wife fits very nicely in the mustang too...."once you go fat.......you don't go back" is your motto,right! NOT MY MOTTO, unless it's my wallet!!
Your wallets small like a few other things I hear...My wife has her own Corvette and she's better looking as well...But we all know you have nothing like you say...Not even a generator. At least I have pics....What do you have? Hot air..

Show us at least the Yugo...Paid cash for a v6 Mustang...wow what a high roller... You know what Kirk...I will pay that every year for my son's tuition...I guess that makes me a higher roller.

You see Kirk I can afford to pay for the impractical...But I guess you can to, after all you own a Yugo.HAHAHA
Last edited by nucleardawg
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