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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
I know.

I don't see why this inhal person harps on the Z4. Strange that he demands what he and his alter ego fail to provide over and over.

Just for kicks, I asked the owner if he would give all the info wanted.

He said if they posted a nice letter apologizing for their attitude, and explain why, in detail, they need all this information, he'll consider it.

But, given the fact that one knows very little about oil, and the other isn't even savy enough to stay on topic, plus the overwhelming fact that neither have as yet proven a need to know, he is doubtful.


Apologize for what?

Well?
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
The simple fact is: the overwhelming majority of new cars manufactured, have the factory fill with dino oil. Those are the only facts pertinent to a debate...The rest is just background noise.

Are synthetics useful? of course...Are they necessary? only in certain vehicles...Are synthetics better then dino oils? of course...Those are the facts....The rest is just background noise.


Pennzoil Yellow Bottle has a strong following over at bitog. A good SM rated dino.

Mobil Clean 5000 is another good dino.

Could skim through this as well.
https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995/m/976102648
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:

My vehicles are not infected with this sludge virus, nor any of my friends.


Hallelujah! Nucleardawg and all of his friends (both of them) have never had a sludge issue. Therefore, there has never been a sludge issue.


Nuke tells everyone to use mineral oil........yet he(nuke) uses synthetic oil on all his vehicles,such as Redline oil. What's up with that?

What do you make of this....

http://www.ripoffreport.com/Li...iar-and-co-682eq.htm
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
So my take Trajan is, if you follow oil change intervals, that are not outrageously long, then you should have no issues. This also requires the owner to keep up on maintenance.

This is a disposeable society today and cars along with just about everything else is marketed for a quick turnover. So people don't necessarily take care of what they own.

Todays modern dino oils are more than up to the task. If the car is spec'd for synthetic then use it. If the area in which you live in see's extreme's then it is of benefit.

My advice to someone reading these posts is don't listen to the hype, or the shill's who are close to being banned from this site. We know who those people (person) are/is.


If 'dino oils' are so good Nuke.............why do you have only synthetic in your 'STASH' ???????

NUKE...You make no sense telling everyone basic mineral oil is ssssooooo good............then admit to loading up with synthetic oil REDLINE OIL.

Your busted again!!!!!!!!

Here is the proof that proves it.......


Originally Posted by NuclearDog View Post
I currently have 1 case of Redline 5w-30, and 1 case of Redline 10-w30, in my oil stash at home. Would either of these oils be good for the 75 I just purchased, or should I look into a heavier 5 or 10w-40.

I know how to use the search function, but as a new member I want to get my posts up, so I can post pics of my new ride.

Any recommendations or explanations, of why you use your particular oil, is appreciated..Thanks Guys.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Looks like the 'other site' is giving quite a bit of information proving sludge is a real issue.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1498040


And yet, not a single mention of the word sludge.



Wrong again Trajen........here is sludge talk just for you.....YOU ASKED FOR IT!!!


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1860004

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...umber=1504155&page=1


This is just a small sample of all the sludge talk on that site. It's epidemic over there as well.....SLUDGE!!!!

This makes it a littler easier to prove my point regarding sludge with this one google link/Bombshell.....

http://www.google.com/cse?cx=0...3D1504155%26page%3D1
Last edited by captainkirk
It's my understanding that going up a grade won't hurt, eg: 5w-30 to 10w-30, or say 10w-30 to a 10w-40. I've used GC 0w-30, Castrol 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 in the Z4.

I don't think it will hurt to use the MMO with either grade.

Supposedly Rislone helps with the tick. Like any kind of additive though, YMMV.

Pay a visit to the Pennzoil and Mobil websites. Mobil in paticular has lots of info.

Deltona Dave's point stands.
Last edited by trajan
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.

I believe it goes back to some posts where they mentioned, that they believed that sludge had something to do with the dire case of, erectal disfunction that they suffer from.

For some reason they believe sludge is clogging the main vein. They are tired of the giggles it gets them when it's money time.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.


Links get posted. They're shown to have nothing to do with the position taken.

Then in a show of misplaced retailiation, more get posted that weaken said position even further.

Then. the cycle continues. Obsession indeed.

And none, not a single one, come even close to refute the OP.

And Big Bear has some good advice.
Last edited by trajan
Define synthetic? According to the data, from Ashland and other oil companies, there are no issues with wear and GF-4 oils.

With GF-5/SN soon due out, these oils will approach synthetic quality. Many of the GF-4 products contain some Grp III base oils. Additives are also very important.

With GF-5, most oils will be considered synthetic by the Grp III definition. Shell recently came out with their new Synthetic called Pennzoil Ultra. It's primarily group III base, in which they claim Grp III's have been solvency than PAO's.

Conventional oils are all one needs unless your owners manual calls for a synthetic. If you are following OEM recommendations, you should have nothing to worry about.

In a high performance application, where high heat from a turbo or racing conditions are experienced, you maybe be better off using a synthetic oil like Mobil1/Synpower etc..

The new Mustangs will be going 10k miles or 1 year on Motorcraft oil. Toyota will be doing the same with their 0w20. Both of these oils are synthetic blends.

Amsoil is currently testing their GF-5 oils that will be out later this fall, along with the rest of them.

Oils have come a long way, and you can't go wrong with any of the major brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

http://www.gf-5.com/

Using a qualified, officially approved, licensed product is your safest bet.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.


Links get posted. They're shown to have nothing to do with the position taken.

Then in a show of misplaced retailiation, more get posted that weaken said position even further.

Then. the cycle continues. Obsession indeed.

And none, not a single one, come even close to refute the OP.

And Big Bear has some good advice.



What???????? Get back on your MEDS!!!!!!!!
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
So my take Trajan is, if you follow oil change intervals, that are not outrageously long, then you should have no issues. This also requires the owner to keep up on maintenance.

This is a disposeable society today and cars along with just about everything else is marketed for a quick turnover. So people don't necessarily take care of what they own.

Todays modern dino oils are more than up to the task. If the car is spec'd for synthetic then use it. If the area in which you live in see's extreme's then it is of benefit.

My advice to someone reading these posts is don't listen to the hype, or the shill's who are close to being banned from this site. We know who those people (person) are/is.


If that's your advice Nuke........then why don't you put cheap dino oil in your 75 vette,and all your mustangs.

Why do you use the group IV synthetic that I have been touting as being superior,but go on to say mineral is fine.

Why do you tell everyone that mineral oil is fine..........but I don't see you using it in your precious cars. The ratty little beater truck you claim to drive doesn't count.

I want to see you put that cheapo Dino oil in your cars,then tell us its good enough. Put your money where your mouth is like I do.

Until then.....you are a hypocrite,just playing games,or lying. Which is it??


Here is the group IV stuff you seem to have plenty of and only use in your cars...but then go on and tell everyone group II/III is good enough to use,even though you won't use it.

Originally Posted by NuclearDog View Post
I currently have 1 case of Redline 5w-30, and 1 case of Redline 10-w30, in my oil stash at home. Would either of these oils be good for the 75 I just purchased, or should I look into a heavier 5 or 10w-40.

I know how to use the search function, but as a new member I want to get my posts up, so I can post pics of my new ride.

Any recommendations or explanations, of why you use your particular oil, is appreciated..Thanks Guys.
AT least the new G5 standard will be attempting to address the issues I have stated above.

he Sequence VG is a fired engine test designed to evaluate the candidate oil's ability to prevent sludge and varnish deposits in short trip low temperature operation.

The test cycles between low and high temperature operation, simulating the short trip driving conditions which promote the generation of acids and fuel dilution in the crankcase. A special fuel is used which is prone to sludge and varnish generation.

The rated performance parameters for the Sequence VG are:

* Average Engine Sludge (AES)
* Rocker Arm Cover Sludge (RACS)
* Average Engine Varnish (AEV)
* Average Piston Skirt Varnish (APV)
* Oil Screen Clogging (Screen Clogging, %)
* Ring Sticking (RS)


Proposed Performance Limits for AES, RACS and Oil Screen Clogging will be more demanding for GF-5 compared to the limits for GF-4.
Sequence VG Test Conditions


This test alone acknowledges that sludge/varnish/deposits are an issue.


However...the point missed is that refining petro oil into something similar to group IV is going to make it cost just as much as group IV and more if oil prices continue rising.

I still don't see a severely Hydro-cracked Group III that equals or rivals a quality group IV true synthetic,especially with doing extended OCI's. Even when that day may come.......you will pay a premium price if you buy into it.
quote:
Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..


Captain_kirk.....Damn and you where saying oil company are making *** product and the only good oil was ******* .Now you using synthetic oil what append? I thought you didn’t need to change your oil ever again.
I'm still waiting for the 'copy and paste' response.

This guy never has had an original thought. Thats why he continually gets 'owned' on every forum.

I'm sure whatever his comeback it will bring a chuckle from me as he seems a big crybaby.

I truly enjoy when the split personality surfaces and the alter ego's appear defending him...talk about a joke, but it always makes me laugh at him
quote:
Originally posted by vitual_mage:
quote:
Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..


Captain_kirk.....Damn and you where saying oil company are making *** product and the only good oil was ******* .Now you using synthetic oil what append? I thought you didn’t need to change your oil ever again.



I don't change it. I might change at 50k and send it back for credit like before.
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