Best oil regimen for an older car??

I'd give Valvoline Maxlife a try.

Hi Bio-D,

The OEM recommendation (from Europes number one Lubricant Information System) states:

Engine, petrol, 4-stroke, water cooled, 2 valves/cyl.
Capacity 3.85 liter
Filter capacity: 0.50 liter
Change every 10000 km or 6 months
Check daily

OEM recommendation
Below 30 ACEA A2-96 SAE 5W-30
Below 40 ACEA A2-96 SAE 5W-40
From -20 to 30 ACEA A2-96 SAE 10W-30
From -20 to 40 ACEA A2-96 SAE 10W-40
Above -15 ACEA A2-96 SAE 15W-40
Above -5 ACEA A2-96 SAE 20W-40

So I would recommend a 10W-30 or 10W-40 and if you're in a bit colder region/climate, the 5W-x is preferred. Do NOT use a very high classification oil, regardless what the oil companies try to sell you. The modern "fuel conserving" oils of nowadays contain a lot of additives which can react with the gaskets and sealings of your (relative old engine). And with 187K on the dial, and a 3000m interval, there's no need to buy an expensive top product.

Just by an API: SH or comparable grade, this will do fine! You won't have any trouble finding this oil, almost every company can help you with this!

More info on the LIS Lubricant Information System? Let me know!

Maxlife may help with the leakage and possibly the burning (or volitolization?). Also, you may be able to run 4000 to 5000 mile oil change intervals. I did an oil analysis on the 10w40 maxlife in my pickup (previous OCI) at 3000 miles and the lab said I could easily run it 4500 miles. Plan to now.

Ummm - hang on - is your engine actually leaking, is it smoking, or is it being chewed up by temperature?

If your' pumping out 1,000 miles a month it says to me your doing some long distance stints. Is that correct?
Is it smoking on startup or during accelleration?
Do you have a big messy oil patch in your car park?
Is there alot of stop starting in your driving regime...

I'd say switch to at least a 10/40, and if she is smoking try even a 20W/50

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If your' pumping out 1,000 miles a month it says to me your doing some long distance stints. Is that correct?

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Yes - I drive from here to Seattle every other weekend, which is over 500 miles round trip. Jeez, guess I'm doing over 1000 miles/month

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Is it smoking on startup or during accelleration?

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It only noticeably smokes when I gun it to pass someone on the freeway. I don't see anything during startup. During normal driving I don't see any smoke in the rearview.

quote:

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Do you have a big messy oil patch in your car park?

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I have a few small patches of oil in the driveway, but nothing that looks like a major leak.

quote:

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Is there alot of stop starting in your driving regime...

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Not really. The only city driving that I do is to and from school (about 2 miles each way) and then occasionally running errands. I time my trips to Seattle so as to miss stop and go traffic.

So, I'm sort of at a loss for what is eating up the oil. There isn't major smoking or leakage, but after a trip to Seattle, I need to top up. Could this be a "chewed up by temperature" thing?

Thanks for any input!!

A quart between changes (how often are they?) doesn't seem excessive to me, that is, I probably wouldn't go a grade heavier to eliminate it.


General old car oil advice:

I'm not a big fan of Group I, 5w30 and 10w40 oils in high mileage cars. That is, they SEEM more subject to viscosity changes in a dirty engine, or less capable of dealing with fuel dillution. So, if you decide to use a 5w30 or 10w40, I'd try to use a Group II oil such as Chevron/Havoline/Pennzoil.

The 15W40 oils are a great fit for many older cars late in their lives. I also like most of the High-mileage blends, though Max-Life doesn't seem to be as good of a deal as it once was.

I think that extended oil drain intervals must be confirmed by oil analysis on older cars. That is, there are many engines that I wouldn't hesitate to change at 7,000 miles when new that I would want to see oil analysis on if I bought them used at 100,000 miles.

BioD,

The basic differences between new engines and older engines is that clearances and leakages are more and consequently oil consumption too will be more. The choice of oil would depend on the following:

1. API Specification: Tye latest specs API SH is perfectly good choice.

2. Group I or Group II: Hydro finished lubes of Group II category is fine

3. Viscometrics: I will not compromise here. It has got to have a combination of xxw50.
a) Cold environment: If I were in Canada I would opt for 10w50 ( if available) or the nearest combination to that.)
b) Hot & warm environment: In Colombo or Madras I would opt for 20w50.

On the other hand if the engine is "running-in" or has been "re-bored" the clearances would be very small. I would opt as before, for API SH and Group oils. My viscometrics would change to 15w30 or thereabouts.

Hussam Adeni

You might want to explore this site:

Auto-rx.com


Also, I understand Citgo Ultralife HM oil has higher additive levels and is thicker (lower cost too). 10w30 is 12 cSt at 100C compared to Maxlife at 10.5 cSt.