DEXOS VS GF-5 LUBE STANDARD

quote:

Originally posted by Trajan:
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.

Trojan....why do yoouuuuu keep on bringing up synlube,and no one else does???? However the person I care most about using the oil you like to bring up so much..... is.....me....myself.......and I. Your loss!

I already explained why no sludge in a mower engine waaaayyyy back.......NO emission controls,runs hot and burns off moisture,no short trips,incomplete warmups etc.

However,the fact that an air cooled mower engine runs hot has been known to cause issues such as, hot sludging/coking,especially during long runs,and that's why I run synthetic in all my engines period.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/foru...owflat&Number=486820


Another reason why I put synthetic in all my small equipment,and use several fuel additive products at once. Never have any issues,including the first start in spring.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25936782/

http://www.ehow.com/how_601904...stratton-engine.html

Even Porshe acknowleges that todays oils are lacking in protection.. Just look

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine, including newer water-cooled ones. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending non-approved motorcycle or racing oils, or the addition of oil supplements at every oil change, for their higher levels of protection. On newer water-cooled engines where Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended, a simple change to an oil with CJ-4 rating or preferably an oil with SL or CI-4 rating as well as a viscosity of 5w40 rather than 0w40 are two changes that can be done in addition to more frequent oil changes to ensure longevity of newer engines.


The whole link......explain this trajen.........

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave

You tow with the titan,spend 3 grand a year on fuel, don't use synthetic,live in florida, and tow in all that heat!

I am surprised to see that. Your choice,your vehicle,do what you want.

And it is obvious you don't read all the way through everyone's posts, before posting your quips. I am running Pennzoil Platinum in both my Nissans right now. Last time I checked it was a PAO synthetic Grp III. I am considering going back to conventional, once I get through my stash of Platinum (about 3 more changes). Nissan engineers recommend conventional oil and I figure they know more than I do about what to run in the engine they designed.

I have not made the decision yet.

I would be more worried about my engine being damaged by ethanol in the fuel, over what oil I use. Mainly on the Altima as it is not flex capable. Ethanol eats and corrodes O rings, gaskets, injector components, fuel pumps, etc. that is going to be the engine killer, not so much as lubricants.

Dave

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05...t/05ethanol.html?hpw

Found this at a bimmer forum: http://www.pure-gas.org/

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510

Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was, showed no sludge, and dino/mineral oil was just fine and was all the mower ever saw. That apparently wasn't truth at all. BIG LIE IN FACT.

What in the world is this all about then??? This shows a different """story"""

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


When connecting the Dots of all your story telling.................it's very disturbing indeed why someone would lie like that and make up all those stories and twist/distort/fabricate whatever information existed or not, Just to avoid admitting synthetic oil is better???

Talk about issues. Get back on your meds....NOW SIR!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine.

What in the world is this all about then???

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424

You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.

quote:

Originally posted by Trajan:

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine. That wasn't exactly the whole true story....was it????

What in the world is this very different story all about then??? Dave,you are not being very candid...are you??

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424

You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.

You guys have some strange issues now that I have blown the lid off whatever agenda you have.

I have always been a totally straight shooter......just the facts.

The facts aren't looking to good revealing all of Dave's story telling and now outright lies and fabrication.

WOW..........THE TRUTH FINALLY COMES OUT!!!

Dave..........what gives???

Flush out your mower engine with chemicals(MMO,etc).. and.......then post pictures showing how clean it is saying you used nothing but cheap/dino/mineral oil as if the oil kept it clean all along by itself....just to give the false impression using cheap oil works fine,instead of synthetic. That's just nuts.

Dave(trajen),your previous posts/lies now proves all along what I was talking about regarding sludge being caused from cheap oil that you tried to hide all this time, and why would you do that.!!

It looks to me.......like..........Trajen=Deltona_Dave!!!

Come up with an explaination for why PYB meets GF-5 even though it's dino?

Really is a shame that you can't comprehend that anyone would disagree with you.

Must be congenital. Following your logic, you, annie, inhaliburton, (surprised neither have stuck their useless beaks in.), and miro are one and the same.

there is a report button...Mike can probably check this

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510

Did you not read that I was using Mobil 1 before switching to Pennzoil Platinum? Last I heard, Mobil 1 was a synthetic oil... I started using Platinum due to the fact that I was given several cases of it. Mobil 1 made my top end a little noisy. Yes, the coolant temp went down a little, not much with platinum.

No, I am not Trajan/nuke. I am me.

About the Mower. Yes, in my first post, I had a little varnish on the dipstick, and was concerned that i was getting some sludge. I had not pulled the valve covers off at that time. I went with some of the board posters suggestions to try a motorcraft filter and maybe a different HDEO. I also asked if I should go with a synthetic oil or use an additive. At least over there, I can ask a question and do not get bashed over it.

I never used an engine flush, nor a synthetic oil, except for a top-off one time. The Delvac 1300 that is in it now seems to have cleaned the little bit of varnish that was there to a point. It still uses oil, not as much, but still have to top off about every 8 hours of use. BTW, there still is some bits of varnish on the rocker nuts, just not visible in the pics. The B&S engine is not spotless, but clean enough. I still need to pull the heads and de-carbon the pistons/combustion chambers.

You are the one that states you use Synlube in your vehicles. Does it meet Motorcraft and Daimler Chrysler specs? Hope it does if you need power train warranty claims.

You can can discredit me, that's fine. I am human, I make mistakes and forget things (I am getting old).

I still work on over 250 CVPI's for the Sheriff's Office, that are assigned to patrol division. They only see conventional oil changes every 5K. After 5 years of service and an average of 100K on the Odo, the engine camshafts are still clean.

Dave. Not Trajan or anyone else.

Also,
No where did I say that Conventional was better than Synthetic. My whole point is that whatever oil one chooses to use will work fine, as long as it meets/exceeds what the manufacturer recommends and is changed at proper intervals.

Most oil related problems are due to the fact that owners use improper oil, or do not change when recommended.

The point of this topic was about GF-5 standard. Conventionals will be able to meet that standard.

Is that wrong?

Bash away Kirk.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by .:[EM]:.:
there is a report button...Mike can probably check this

Which I've used time and again, and these nonsense multi account allegations continue.

Does the owners manual say anything about a tow package?

Probably the best place to find out would be Nissan Titan forums.

I would imagine that towing would fall under severe service anyway?

I've never owned a truck, so my knowledge is limited to being the towee.

Trajan,
You could always get a small utility trailer. Harbor Freight has some small collapsible ones for about $200. DOT approved and about 4x8 (the size of a standard sheet of plywood). You would just have to buy a 3/4" sheet of PT ply for the flooring. It will only hold about 900-1000 lbs, but can be handy. I have one, but when it is empty, tends to bounce around.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Trajan,
You could always get a small utility trailer. Harbor Freight has some small collapsible ones for about $200. DOT approved and about 4x8 (the size of a standard sheet of plywood). You would just have to buy a 3/4" sheet of PT ply for the flooring. It will only hold about 900-1000 lbs, but can be handy. I have one, but when it is empty, tends to bounce around.

Dave

Not a bad idea, but it would take some fabricating on my end for a hitch. It would have to go under the rear cover.

I've seen it on a Z3. I've read you can get one for a 3, don't know about the 4.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/foru...207&highlight=towing

quote:

The point of this topic was about GF-5 standard. Conventionals will be able to meet that standard.

Dave....define conventional oil. Do you mean group II ??

I doubt very much that conventional oil will meet the GF-5 spec without the use of synthetic oil in the mix. Even if some product does manage to arrive that is totally conventional but claims to meet the GF-5 standard,I think it will have issues compared to a premium group III,or my preference.....Group IV. My concern with conventional oil is.. too high noack volatility,oil film sheering,oxidation,oil film strength too weak,and so forth.

When dexos hits,it will put GF-5 at the bottom. The pecking order will be something like this.....GF-5(the lowest minimal standard).......DEXOS(GROUP III)(middle standard).....and the best being....Group IV(the highest standard) as usual.

Your car,your engine,your investment,your money,your choice.

Kirk

Kirk, what oil meets IV? I am presuming Mobil-1 but they keep it a "secret" and some have mentioned it is a grp III.

GF-5 can be met with conventional, but dexos will require grp III pao, from what I can interpret.

I am still running a grp III (penz. platinum) for a while. I am considering, but not committed to grp II (PYB).

I am not here to bash, argue, belittle, or smackdown anyone. I would like to have a civil discussion with anyone. I treat and talk to people the same way they talk to me.

Fair Shake?

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Kirk, what oil meets IV? I am presuming Mobil-1 but they keep it a "secret" and some have mentioned it is a grp III.

GF-5 can be met with conventional, but dexos will require grp III pao, from what I can interpret.

I am still running a grp III (penz. platinum) for a while. I am considering, but not committed to grp II (PYB).

I am not here to bash, argue, belittle, or smackdown anyone. I would like to have a civil discussion with anyone. I treat and talk to people the same way they talk to me.

Fair Shake?

Dave

Fair Shake...you got it.

Kirk

Here are photos of a Crown Vic Police Interceptor. 100K + on odometer (2005) K-9 vehicle. OCI 3-4K (vehicle was never shut off during duty hours, due to the dog needing A/C.

Oil filler look down.
[URL= oil filler tube[/URL]

Engine Bay Pic [URL= ]engine Bay[/URL]

This CVPI was only run on conventional oil. Ford Modular engines are stout and can handle abuse. Some varnish and a little goop forming on rockers.
Bay clean, as it was getting ready for auction.

Dave