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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
http://www.infineum.com/siteco...ooks/gf5/video4.html

Fran Lockwood on GF-4. "No issues with oil robustness.".

Kirk stop spreading false, exaggerated information. LOL


What have I said that is false,or exaggerated. I have only shown what is already out on the net as.........FACT........BUSTER!!!!!!

Perhaps you may not agree with the information or the facts,but that does not make it wrong,or exaggerted. I find your remarks offensive and out of line.

The facts I have presented are plain and simple. New standards are arriving soon and dexos is a higher standard. GF-5 will not be a long drain interval lube. The shell link pasted by dave shows oil with almost 15% noack volatility. Too high for my standards based on what's available. Amsoil for example is about 5-7%. The lube I use is 4%. Why do I want to use motor oil that evaporates out of my engine? What will 15% volatility motor oil do....... during the summer on long hard runs.....evaporate out of your engine......and load up, or maybe even clog your pcv system.......LOL.

What issue do you have with those facts?


Kirk
Last edited by captainkirk
I just don't get the concept of spending $40,000 dollars on a piece of equipment(titan),and then go on to install motor oil that meets a minumum spec just to save 10 bucks. Fuel cost alone are thousands a year. Premium oil is cheap insurance and goes for the maximum standard. Go figure.

Between my Jeep and mustang alone.....that would be $65,000 dollars cost,Plus 2 grand a year for car insurance,and 3 grand a year for fuel with both vehicles. Then, I am supposed to adhere to the logic some are imposing on this board and brag about saving 10 bucks on an oil change using group II oil. I don't think that makes any sense at all when the higher standard lubes don't really cost that much more and give much better protection.....and last longer negating that paltry 10 dollar savings.

I can not see the logic of penny wise and dollar foolish some are taking on this thread with minimum standard oil when the better lubes are scientifically proven better for not much more cost,and may actually save money in the long run.


Do you guys buy cheap everything else on that note as well!

THE PHRASE FOR THE DAY......CHEAP IS UGLY!
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Found this tidbit about dexos and GF-5. asashop.org

Seems to be another way to up the prices. 15% for GF-5 and up to 30% for dexos. Seems to be GM's way of getting extra profit, since they were bailed out? Dexos for sparkers seems to be 0W-XX and the diesels are 5W-XX weight. Mostly Grp III PAO's for dexos.


What a crazy concept,charge more for a better product.....less for a cheaper product!
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave


You tow with the titan,spend 3 grand a year on fuel, don't use synthetic,live in florida, and tow in all that heat!

I am surprised to see that. Your choice,your vehicle,do what you want.
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.


No tirades here trajen.........just the facts.........and you don't like them......OH WELL!!
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.


Trojan....why do yoouuuuu keep on bringing up synlube,and no one else does???? However the person I care most about using the oil you like to bring up so much..... is.....me....myself.......and I. Your loss!

I already explained why no sludge in a mower engine waaaayyyy back.......NO emission controls,runs hot and burns off moisture,no short trips,incomplete warmups etc.

However,the fact that an air cooled mower engine runs hot has been known to cause issues such as, hot sludging/coking,especially during long runs,and that's why I run synthetic in all my engines period.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/foru...owflat&Number=486820


Another reason why I put synthetic in all my small equipment,and use several fuel additive products at once. Never have any issues,including the first start in spring.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25936782/

http://www.ehow.com/how_601904...stratton-engine.html
Last edited by captainkirk
Even Porshe acknowleges that todays oils are lacking in protection.. Just look

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine, including newer water-cooled ones. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending non-approved motorcycle or racing oils, or the addition of oil supplements at every oil change, for their higher levels of protection. On newer water-cooled engines where Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended, a simple change to an oil with CJ-4 rating or preferably an oil with SL or CI-4 rating as well as a viscosity of 5w40 rather than 0w40 are two changes that can be done in addition to more frequent oil changes to ensure longevity of newer engines.


The whole link......explain this trajen.........

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave


You tow with the titan,spend 3 grand a year on fuel, don't use synthetic,live in florida, and tow in all that heat!

I am surprised to see that. Your choice,your vehicle,do what you want.


And it is obvious you don't read all the way through everyone's posts, before posting your quips. I am running Pennzoil Platinum in both my Nissans right now. Last time I checked it was a PAO synthetic Grp III. I am considering going back to conventional, once I get through my stash of Platinum (about 3 more changes). Nissan engineers recommend conventional oil and I figure they know more than I do about what to run in the engine they designed.

I have not made the decision yet.

I would be more worried about my engine being damaged by ethanol in the fuel, over what oil I use. Mainly on the Altima as it is not flex capable. Ethanol eats and corrodes O rings, gaskets, injector components, fuel pumps, etc. that is going to be the engine killer, not so much as lubricants.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.


Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was, showed no sludge, and dino/mineral oil was just fine and was all the mower ever saw. That apparently wasn't truth at all. BIG LIE IN FACT.

What in the world is this all about then??? This shows a different """story"""

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


When connecting the Dots of all your story telling.................it's very disturbing indeed why someone would lie like that and make up all those stories and twist/distort/fabricate whatever information existed or not, Just to avoid admitting synthetic oil is better???

Talk about issues. Get back on your meds....NOW SIR!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine.

What in the world is this all about then???

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine. That wasn't exactly the whole true story....was it????

What in the world is this very different story all about then??? Dave,you are not being very candid...are you??

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.


You guys have some strange issues now that I have blown the lid off whatever agenda you have.

I have always been a totally straight shooter......just the facts.

The facts aren't looking to good revealing all of Dave's story telling and now outright lies and fabrication.

WOW..........THE TRUTH FINALLY COMES OUT!!!

Dave..........what gives???

Flush out your mower engine with chemicals(MMO,etc).. and.......then post pictures showing how clean it is saying you used nothing but cheap/dino/mineral oil as if the oil kept it clean all along by itself....just to give the false impression using cheap oil works fine,instead of synthetic. That's just nuts.

Dave(trajen),your previous posts/lies now proves all along what I was talking about regarding sludge being caused from cheap oil that you tried to hide all this time, and why would you do that.!!

It looks to me.......like..........Trajen=Deltona_Dave!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
This is Deltona_dave/trajens.......""""STORY"""""


I have an 8 year old Craftsman (AYP) heavy duty lawn tractor that is developing some sludge/varnish. Last season, it was filled with Rotella-T 15W-40 HDEO. Well, it don't like thick oil. It burned it at about 8 oz. per week (10-12 hours). Now that I am a BITOG'er, I want to clean her up and thought about this method:

Run PP for a month or Ultra, then fill with GC (seems to be used in a lot of OPE around here). I have a couple of B&S filters (a lot of money for a dinky filter), but after searching, I have found cheaper alternatives (super techs, purolators, etc) Wix, Fram, and OEM are just way pricey for a monthly change out. I am just concerned that the alternatives have higher bypass pressures than OEM (12-14 vs 8 for OE). Think the Briggs will care?

Here in Central Florida, Mowing season is 6 months, and from May-Sept, temps are close to 100 with 90% humidity! Tough on air cooled engines.

Any suggestions on oil selection or filters?

I want to keep this thing running as long as I can, as it is a good mower and tugger for a cart, aerator, and spreader.

Thanks,
Dave


AND NOW,FROM THE SAME PERSON(DELTONA_DAVE)...........A VERY DIFFERENT """STORY"""..........VERY STRANGE INDEED....VERY TELLING TO SAY THE LEAST

I just pulled the rocker covers on my 2002 Craftsman Riding Mower/tractor (made by American yard Products AYP). Engine is a B&S 21.5 HP vertical shaft. Engine has 1200 plus hours on it. Never saw Synthetic OCI, except for one Mobil 1 top off. This old girl has had B&S oil factory fill, AAP 20w-50, GTX, Warren convenience store oil, etc. All has met API SL minimum. Last change was Rotella 15W-40. Current fill is Delvac 1300. Filters were either B&S or MotorCraft 400S.
Here is a link of the engine.

Remember, this is an air cooled Briggs Intek V-twin full pressure lube. It sees 25+ hours a month in very dusty conditions.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...=1861000#Post1861000

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995/m/242104424


Dave
Last edited by captainkirk
Well.....after connecting the dots/stories/lies/distortions/.....it's easy to see that

TRAJEN=DELTONA_DAVE


Very,Very disturbing.

Just to avoid admitting that synthetic oil is better than mineral oil he would go to all that trouble to make up all those stories. That is bizarre!!

Like I said......just the facts!! They never lie!!


Now,we finally will have a professional thread.......Whew!!!


Kirk
Trajen/nuke/dave/etc.etc...........Get lost!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You're Busted as a liar for the whole world to see!!!

THIS IS A PROFESSIONAL FORUM.......YOU ARE NOT!!!!!


I post only the facts and the truth.....that's how I caught you and your lies......with the facts!!!! The facts never lie........only you do!!!! Now we have proof of who you are,and that you are a liar!!!


By the way.........synthetic oil is better!!! Dino/mineral causes sludge...even in mower engines...... The facts say so!!



Kirk

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