Havoline- doesn't get much better

chevron and oronite are very good with constant upgradeing behind the scenes good people.
bruce

I have not been watching the lower cost dino trends but it appears that they are of the formulating approach to use just group II and more of a different type moly to help stay oxidation vs Conoco Phillips use of some group III in the brew with Afton Chemicals HiTech add pack that uses a smaller amount of a different moly and what appears to be a different zinc and dispersant spike to get near or same results .

One constant seems the use of boron in larger amounts in the better oils . Or should I say in the oils where 2 cents per quart don't matter to some companies ?

Anyway , ring packs across the board should remain cleaner than ever with most of these new dino's .

Motorbike I think you are correct. MC is using group III or at least more of it, then Havoline which uses Group II+. The Havoline is really putting up great numbers and staying in grade better then the MC. Outstanding oils for the money.

I'm convinced that the additive chemistry, not the baseoil, is the most important aspect of an oil in most situations.The 490ppm of Moly Havoline is using must be doing something good for their oils. Even Amsoil's Group III XL line does much better then their more expensive Synthetic line under 10k miles. Go figure....save money on the expensive baseoils and put the money into a better additive chemisstry. ?? Just a thought.

Buster, you must mean 49 ppm moly, not 490 ppm. All UOAs and VOAs of Havoline show moly ppms around 50?

The exception to your additive arguement is GC. The additives do not look that impressive, yet the UOAs do.

Hi Winston, no 490ppm of Moly. The new GF-4 Havoline has that amount. Prior GF-3 versions had the 50ppm or so.

OK, I did some more searching. I found a GF-4 that still showed 50ppm Moly. Then I found a couple SM UOA's, those had the 350-450 moly numbers you are talking about. I was confused because most of the current Chevron/Havoline UOA's show 50ppm moly. There is no VOA of 5W30 or 10W30 chevron or Havoline SM.

Winston,
Here is a sample that is apparently already obsolete.
Havoline 5w30 VOA

quote:

Originally posted by Buster:

Go figure....save money on the expensive baseoils and put the money into a better additive chemisstry. ?? Just a thought.

You can have both with a small handfull of synlubes available in N. America .

BTW , going back to dino's , has everyone forgot about Pennzoil ? It's built pretty stout last I saw .

Large amounts of moly don't make the world go round .

The Pennzoil dino is good stuff. I am more of a fan of the Havoline oils. Group II+ basestocks, Flash points of about 460F for the 5w-20 and 450F for the 30wts. TBN's of 8.5 for all of them.

Their Synthetics had a FP of 490F and a Noak of 5% for the 10w-30. Now that it's GF-4 they took down the Noak off the latest PDS. Havoline IMO is by far the most underated brand out there.

*They are comming out with a 5w-20 synthetic anyday now. Should be a good oil. All additives and basestocks are made by CVX. Oronite makes the additives. Katrina has disrupted some of their plants so things have been delayed a bit.

If Havoline's new 5w-20 synthetic does not have that huge dose of moly " their 30wts are molyless " will that glean some insight as to which is the better building block to start with ?

BTW

Noack-current dino 10w-30's

Chevron Supreme - 11.74
Havoline 10.63
Motorcraft 10.06

quote:

Originally posted by Motorbike:
[
Large amounts of moly don't make the world go round .

Ain't that the truth I say to myself . Motorcraft and Phillips Trop Artic uses just 40-50 ppm of it . Albeit a different type .

I wish they had thrown the Mobil 5000 and 7500 that has antimony into the mix

I ran Havoline 5W-30 (non-synthetic) in my 1999 HD K2500 Sururban (Wheels fleet lease) survey crew truck for over 125,000 miles changing every 5000 miles and the 'burb would rarely use more than 1/2 qt between changes. I surveyed a lot along hwy's so the truck would run most of the day and a lot of idling and short trip driving. We were not permitted to change oil any sooner than 5,000 miles, DOT policy-Unnecessary maint. proven by over 50 yrs of fleet use.

Reason for using it was the quicklube I was forced to use by my employer (DOT) was a QS/Penn place but carried the Havo for customers like me who wanted something different, like something that did not come from a filthy beatup supply gun and a drum hiding in the back room.

One year I had a summer coop student who had worked in a QL place (not the one I used) the following summer and he told of the crazy things these guys would do. Like putting 10W-40 or 10W-30 in every car they serviced for one day because they were out of 5W-30 and the delivery truck had broken down. No one had any idea they were getting 10W-40, btw-He was the most experienced one there and only 19 yo. People even tip these guys. LOL

Hi there,
I am from Sydney, Australia. Normal temp. is around 10 degree C. to 25 degree C. of the city.
I have Daihatsu Sirion 1 lt. auto-trans. car and I have been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40, which is Semi-Synthetic. I would like to shift to Fully Synthetic oil, please advise.....as I don't know much about oils. My next block retailer wants to sell Havoline Synthetic 10W-50 !!

Thanks a lot.
--Neil

40wts are too viscous for those small engines . Even 5w-40's are for 1.3 liters .

Pick an ACEA A3 rated 5w-30wt synthetic at most and if the engine is low mile an A5 rated 10w-30 should do well without the negative effects of lost horsepower and increased fuel consumption .

If your in tune with your engine you will be able to feel the difference between a 12.5 centistroke A3 oil and a 10 cSt A5 .

Essentially , a synthetic like the ACEA A5 Mobil 10w-30 will replace a mineral 10w-40 anytime an owners manual calls for the 10w-40 for temps above 90F .

Recommend Redline oils 10W30 or their 5W40 if you do much cruising in summer as it does get pretty hot in NSW. Available from Bursons or Coventrys. It is expensive but you can do up to 30,000 km between oil changes on this stuff.
Regards,

quote:

Originally posted by Pooniyan:
Hi there,
I am from Sydney, Australia. Normal temp. is around 10 degree C. to 25 degree C. of the city.
I have Daihatsu Sirion 1 lt. auto-trans. car and I have been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40, which is Semi-Synthetic. I would like to shift to Fully Synthetic oil, please advise.....as I don't know much about oils. My next block retailer wants to sell Havoline Synthetic 10W-50 !!

Thanks a lot.
--Neil

Is Havoline the same as chevron supreme? Ive noticed since they merged, the flash point, pour point,tbn,vi,they all match,is there any difference? Also the walmart in my area quit carrying Chevron supreme has anyone else noticed this? I feel for the money its one of the best oils.

No, they are different believe it or not. Havoline has a better additive package. Can't go wrong with either but Havoline is CVX's premium line.