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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

The oil is not..'moot' as you say,TRAJAN,just the opposite.....the oil is paramount...the oil is everything,and the only thing.

Take basic group II motor oil,group III,and group IV oil,and install each in a separate beaker, or pan/pot and cook them to 'death"...outside of course on a hot plate,or burner. Don't ignite the oil,just cook it "HARD",and smoke the oil almost dry!

The cheaper base stock oils will produce sludge EVERY TIME,while the group IV will not....ever,never,can't, won't.....get it Trajan......no impurities=NO SLUDGE=GROUP IV. "THE PROOF IS IN THE PAN".....

Hey Kirk, Where in the world would a properly functioning engine reach temperatures that would "coke" any oil. Sure I can make oil, synthetic grp IV or dino oil coke if I put it in a petri dish, put a bunsen burner under it. Does an engine see temps like 2000 degrees Fahrenheit? If it did, it would not run long. Lead (primary bearing material melts at about 500 degrees F). My engine never sees temps over 190 F. Anyone can take a MAPP gas or Oxy-acy. torch and coke oil. Most engines see maybe 250 degrees under extreme conditions. Oil will not coke at those temps.
Here is an interesting article I found today on BITOG.

http://www.my350z.com/forum/en...alysis-and-info.html

No bashing, just a fair opinion from a respected member.

Seems that Amsoil touts "moly" is bad for engine, based on Cummins documentation. The Cummins recommendation was based on no Moly on rebuild grease/lubes when doing an overhaul. Not on motor oil, that Amsoil people tout. Cummins suggests using non-moly assembly lubes when overhauling a diesel.

Linke

To me, Amsoil is good oil, but not the "bestest". I just received 3 5qts of Pennzoil dino 5w-30 for some computer work I did for a friend. It is going in my wife's altima and my titan for 5 K. No worries here.
Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Can you reset the OLM in that car, or is their some proprietary progam that the dealer uses?


Oh, just thought I'd tell you I reset the service countdown. It now reads 15500 miles till the next oil change. (Well, if it was still under warranty that's when they would do it.)

Dave, that 350z link was a good read.

As for our bud, eh, what can I say that hasn't been said.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:



There's a million mile Ford Tim, running cheap dino when the guy got around to changing it. still not impressed.

AD



That above statement is.................BULL.

SHOW US THE ALLEGED ENGINE WITH DOCUMENTED,UNDISPUTED PROOF AS YOU CLAIM.

I also want to see the exact vintage of that engine. Try that on a modern day emission engine. Even so,I say it's bogus,and/or greatly exaggerated!

Kirk
quote:
The oil is not..'moot' as you say,TRAJAN,just the opposite.....the oil is paramount...the oil is everything,and the only thing.


True, the Motor Oil is the Lifeblood of an Engine, but there are other things that can lead to engine failures and then the owner has to decide whether it is worth fixing or not.

1) Cooling System, if this is not maintained, meaning that the coolant is not changed often enough you can get deposits in the radiator and the rest of the Cooling System that can lead to a head gasket going bad or the car overheats.

2) PCV System, if this gets clogged up you can get oil leaks or even Sludge developing in the engine.

If you do not change your oil often enough the additive package in the oil can get depleted which can lead to Varnish and Sludge. If your engine gets dirty inside then oil can have a hard time flowing around the engine to lubricate all of the parts.
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:



There's a million mile Ford Tim, running cheap dino when the guy got around to changing it. still not impressed.

AD



That above statement is.................BULL.

SHOW US THE ALLEGED ENGINE WITH DOCUMENTED,UNDISPUTED PROOF AS YOU CLAIM.

I also want to see the exact vintage of that engine. Try that on a modern day emission engine. Even so,I say it's bogus,and/or greatly exaggerated!

Kirk


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...umber=1338944&page=1

Kirk, check this Link out.
quote:
Originally posted by Big Bear:
quote:
The oil is not..'moot' as you say,TRAJAN,just the opposite.....the oil is paramount...the oil is everything,and the only thing.


True, the Motor Oil is the Lifeblood of an Engine, but there are other things that can lead to engine failures and then the owner has to decide whether it is worth fixing or not.

1) Cooling System, if this is not maintained, meaning that the coolant is not changed often enough you can get deposits in the radiator and the rest of the Cooling System that can lead to a head gasket going bad or the car overheats.

2) PCV System, if this gets clogged up you can get oil leaks or even Sludge developing in the engine.

If you do not change your oil often enough the additive package in the oil can get depleted which can lead to Varnish and Sludge. If your engine gets dirty inside then oil can have a hard time flowing around the engine to lubricate all of the parts.


His own links failed to support his sludge theory over and over again. And he just can't deal with it.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Can you reset the OLM in that car, or is their some proprietary progam that the dealer uses?


Oh, just thought I'd tell you I reset the service countdown. It now reads 15500 miles till the next oil change. (Well, if it was still under warranty that's when they would do it.)

Dave, that 350z link was a good read.

As for our bud, eh, what can I say that hasn't been said.


Trajan,
From what I can tell, is any good motor oil will protect an engine period. I don't care if it is a group II sludge oil, or a Grp V ester oil. I have no problems with a good "full synthetic" or a proven dino oil like Pennzoil. They work fine in my applications.
Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I really have no faith in Kirk, as most of his links are over 5 years old. Motor oil has made changes leaps and bounds in the past few years. I am confident that PYB (a grp II oil) will protect as good as any grp III/IV oil by today's standards. Sorry, but Dino oil is as good as most synthetics now days.

Dave


It's good enough for a 2010 V6 Camaro. It was good enough for my 94 and 97 ones. Until 1998 it was good enough for many BMWs.

If dino is good enough for an application, no reason to use synth.
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I really have no faith in Kirk, as most of his links are over 5 years old. Motor oil has made changes leaps and bounds in the past few years. I am confident that PYB (a grp II oil) will protect as good as any grp III/IV oil by today's standards. Sorry, but Dino oil is as good as most synthetics now days.

Dave


I agree with you Dave that Dino oil nowadays is as good as any synthetic oil in protecting an engine.
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I really have no faith in Kirk, as most of his links are over 5 years old. Motor oil has made changes leaps and bounds in the past few years. I am confident that PYB (a grp II oil) will protect as good as any grp III/IV oil by today's standards. Sorry, but Dino oil is as good as most synthetics now days.

Dave



And I........have no faith in you Dave....as I proved you to be a LIAR with the thread you started stating Dino oil is not bad with a photo of lawn mower engine. WHAT A JOKE THAT WAS!!!

Remember,the whole thread you started was based on the clean innards of your mower engine run on dino oil.............


...........However,as I was the ONLY one who discovered, and proved,the whole thread you started was a.............SHAM....BASED ON A MAJOR LIE.

Remember...the mower engine was totally shot,and sludged up. Did you forget already? THE WHOLE THREAD WAS BASED ON A LIE........PERIOD.......

In sum.........you have no credit whatsoever sir! At least I stick to facts!!

NO one,has ever proven me wrong,you included,because I don't lie,or exaggerate,I stick to the facts.......PERIOD.

You have issues with facts, I have noticed. People who lie,like you,usually have issues with facts.
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
The oil is not..'moot' as you say,TRAJAN,just the opposite.....the oil is paramount...the oil is everything,and the only thing.

Take basic group II motor oil,group III,and group IV oil,and install each in a separate beaker, or pan/pot and cook them to 'death"...outside of course on a hot plate,or burner. Don't ignite the oil,just cook it "HARD",and smoke the oil almost dry!

The cheaper base stock oils will produce sludge EVERY TIME,while the group IV will not....ever,never,can't, won't.....get it Trajan......no impurities=NO SLUDGE=GROUP IV. "THE PROOF IS IN THE PAN".....

Hey Kirk, Where in the world would a properly functioning engine reach temperatures that would "coke" any oil. Sure I can make oil, synthetic grp IV or dino oil coke if I put it in a petri dish, put a bunsen burner under it. Does an engine see temps like 2000 degrees Fahrenheit? If it did, it would not run long. Lead (primary bearing material melts at about 500 degrees F). My engine never sees temps over 190 F. Anyone can take a MAPP gas or Oxy-acy. torch and coke oil. Most engines see maybe 250 degrees under extreme conditions. Oil will not coke at those temps.



AS USUAL DAVE................YOU ARE WRONG.

An engine does see those temps............in the upper cylinder area,piston rings,heads,overhead cams,and especially hot running engines,etc.

Where you do think all the sludge comes from?

Why do you think both Amsoil...and....Mobil do similar tests. Remember the mobil 1 frying pan commercial years ago.


Here is a link talking about cooking motor oil...

http://answers.yahoo.com/quest...0100505141148AAJ2zde

The link will also mention "cold" sludge which is an issue too.



Kirk
Yeah, sure. "facts" from some guy who pushes a sham oil... The same guy who posts links that show his own theories to be false, and yet screams about it.

Let's play the inhaliburton game. According to that boy, failure to reply to accusations means that they're true.

http://www.ripoffreport.com/li...ptain-kirk-ff6ca.htm

None of you simlubbers ever replied to this. So by his rules, they are true.

Well, we know they're true any way.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Yeah, sure. "facts" from some guy who pushes a sham oil... The same guy who posts links that show his own theories to be false, and yet screams about it.

Let's play the inhaliburton game. According to that boy, failure to reply to accusations means that they're true.

http://www.ripoffreport.com/li...ptain-kirk-ff6ca.htm

None of you simlubbers ever replied to this. So by his rules, they are true.

Well, we know they're true any way.



Trajan........WE ALL KNOW you created that bogus report. We all know you live in SE. PA, where the report came from. Your writing style proves it too! No one really reads those bogus rip off reports anyway. The guy running those is an extortionist.


By the way........how is that turkey hill gas station doing around the corner from you.

Too bad..........your last endeavor flopped miserably and you with it.


Moreover,I see you are the one who brought up synlube.............again..........you are the one who..................BURNS...........not me. Are U taking antacids for the condition?

I still have a job/career,a very good one too.......unlike you!

Must really burn you... that I know who you are. Your a real..."winner",and everyone knows it.

I hope you are enjoying your................... "sabbatical"....
Last edited by captainkirk
Okay Kirk, You are saying it is normal for an average internal combustion (car) engine to exceed over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. Not! Yeah, I posted a few pics from a small generator, but that engine sees normal operating temps of 210 Fahrenheit. What is wrong with that? How about disclaiming the "amsoil" tests with Cummins diesel engines with moly? Hmm.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Okay Kirk, You are saying it is normal for an average internal combustion (car) engine to exceed over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. Not! Yeah, I posted a few pics from a small generator, but that engine sees normal operating temps of 210 Fahrenheit. What is wrong with that? How about disclaiming the "amsoil" tests with Cummins diesel engines with moly? Hmm.

Dave


You posted pics from a generator,but I was referring to the "shot" mower engine pics.
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I would love to see an internal combustion engine that sees over 5OO degrees Fahrenheit.



WELL DAVE........I guess you better tell Amsoil, Mobil,and others how foolish they are for doing those motor oil coking test.

Apparently,you claim to be smarter then the big guys.


Here is another link exemplifying thermal stress on oil..........and look...it's only 4 years old.......(Dave thinks the laws of physics/chemistry changes every 5 years).........

http://www.custom-car.us/turbo/lubrication.aspx


You see Dave,some of us know that the "overall" oil temp in an engine will see, as you state 200+ degrees,but we also know that there are thermal hot/cool spots in all engines that can,and will "coke" and sludge the oil(the cheap stuff). Hence,the reason for all those gunked up engines,and the need for better oil standards.....again,such as GF-5 and now dexos.
quote:
Originally posted by GeeAea:
Here I have to give a nod to the Captain. The ring area is surely subject to oil coking. Maybe even the underside of the piston. The amount will vary as will the time frame of formation.

Red Line would be about the best formulation for resisting such coke formation.


Thanks,GeeAea.

This is another blurp about heat and motor oil that supports your above comment.

quote..

"In performing its lubrication function, some oil must reach the area of the top piston ring in order to lubricate the rings and cylinder walls. This oil is then exposed to the heat and the flame of burning fuel, and part of it actually burns off."


Kirk
quote:
Originally posted by GeeAea:
Here I have to give a nod to the Captain. The ring area is surely subject to oil coking. Maybe even the underside of the piston. The amount will vary as will the time frame of formation.

Red Line would be about the best formulation for resisting such coke formation.


Interesting comments about the RL oil, it is a great oil.

IIRC cylinder temps can reach 1000*F, but the crankcase temps won't. That could lead to some confusion here. If the crankcase temps hit 1000*F you'd have some real issues.

AD
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
You have issues with facts, I have noticed. People who lie,like you,usually have issues with facts.


Hey Capitan Kirk, there's another person on here who has trouble in his past with being truthful.

Hint: He has a neighbour with an engine that was sludged from using Synlube.



Actually,his "story",went from blown engine,to then......sludged up engine.

I guess it's hard for him to keep all of his..."stories"...straight. I guess the meds sometime have that effect,especially when he's off.....his Meds.
quote:
Originally posted by GeeAea:
Here I have to give a nod to the Captain. The ring area is surely subject to oil coking. Maybe even the underside of the piston. The amount will vary as will the time frame of formation.

Red Line would be about the best formulation for resisting such coke formation.


Interesting, is this something that develops with different types of driving habits.

Will " Oil Coking " develop more under short trip driving or highway driving.
Inhaliburton/Miro....What's this about being truthful?

Captain Kirk....Why were you banned at BITOG?

You 'two' have no room accusing anybody...not with your track record...your inability to tell the truth often...and then getting angry when caught in your baldface lies, has led to you 'two' having lost any credibility on this, or any other board, your still allowed to troll on.

Kirk will you ever post the pics you have promised us, of your generator? What's it been 2 months and counting...
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Inhaliburton/Miro....What's this about being truthful?

Captain Kirk....Why were you banned at BITOG?

You 'two' have no room accusing anybody...not with your track record...your inability to tell the truth often...and then getting angry when caught in your baldface lies, has led to you 'two' having lost any credibility on this, or any other board, your still allowed to troll on.

Kirk will you ever post the pics you have promised us, of your generator? What's it been 2 months and counting...



Nuke,I mean Trajan,whatever...........NOW YOUR JUST BABBLING!
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Bear...AD...Trajan...

You guys have any issues with your engines sludging using dino?

I've been driving 30 years and never had one...I would imagine though if you abused them or didn't take care of mechanical/cooling issues it could lead to it...


I didn't know guy's like you were allowed to drive,or work.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Bear...AD...Trajan...

You guys have any issues with your engines sludging using dino?

I've been driving 30 years and never had one...I would imagine though if you abused them or didn't take care of mechanical/cooling issues it could lead to it...


Sorry Nucleardawg, I went from Mobil 1 to Amsoil, and now I am using Pennzoil Platinum.

I think if you run dino more than 3 months or 3000 miles you could get sludge, I believe Ford is recommending a 5000 mile OCI, but isn't that with semi-synthetic, probably not.

Maybe I need to change my tune to say change dino oil every 6 months or 5000 miles to avoid sludge.
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