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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

So buy a good extended drain oil, don't get a UOA and go for it. Not what I was told by someone I recently met selling extended drain oils to make some extra $$$ for the family. This guy I can actually respect, he's a mechanic and tells his customers to get the oil tested that while the stuff he sells is good there's been problems with it and a report can eliminate lots of them. On yea he said extended drains aren't for everyone either. Jumping in blindly is poor advise, oil is cheap, engines aren't. Isn't that exactly what some Honda and Toyota owners did with a famous extended drain oil and their filters? Then later discover they ruined their engines, one guy was paid over $4k to replace an engine. Some say that's good, some not so good, took the guy 4 months w/o a car for a resolution. TSB was posted on the www after the horse got out of the barn, since this has happened before. This poor guy didn't know of the TSB, I'm sure there are others who are clueless too. Too late I might add, a UOA at the mid point of the extended drain might have saved that guy an engine. Blind faith doesn't cut it, especially when a salesman tells you to go for it!

Yes they claim as oil gets dirty it lubes better, that's to a point, you're missing the other side of the coin. As oil gets dirtier it needs replacement, microscopic grit acts as a pumice wearing out parts, clogging things up, and forming sludge. Don't forget gas from those short hoppers that doesn't get burnt off, or moisture that will form acid. You want that crap in your engine? Not me. The technology is almost there, but still a long way off. Tell my buddy that about his BMW $7000 trans that is trash thanks to LT fluid as confirmed by a reliable trans shop. The tech told him, even BMW LT fluid needs to be changed, his died before 100K, to add insult to injury. Bitter pill, the dude is getting a lawyer. I wish the guy well in his fight.

Mods please note oil and filter corp name that was used in paid out by oil company was not mentioned in this thread to avoid it getting locked, or upsetting some members.

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This bears repeating:

To quote one SargeGTO on this synlube.

"Here are my thoughts....take em or leave em....
You betcha...the very idea of a better lube for our cars is something we all want, desire. The problem is there have been so many snake oils that credibility becomes an issue almost immediately. Then you throw in all the marketing hype posted here void of any real analytical data and you get skeptics. Of course a manufacturer is going to tell us their product is great. The web site looks like my grandson did it. No I take that back....he could do a better job.
Bottom line is this for me. They have been pimping SynLube in the United States since 1969.....and this how far they have gotten with it after almost 40 years? If it was even a fraction of what it is hyped to be any rational thinking person ( educated or uneducated) would conclude after 40 years and a company or technology is still in the "start up" mode....something is wrong.....with either the product or the folks running the business."

One would think that with what drivers in the EU pay for oil, they would be on this like flies on food at a picnic. But they are not.

Wonder why that is. Well, I don't. I'll stick with proven oils like this M1.

Data galore can be found on oil from Redline, Amsoil, Mobil, Pennzoil, QS, etc. Unlike something like synlube.

They can also be questioned without being subject to attacks from its users or defenders.
Again, unlike, well..........
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by maximus:
just a qn, have you guys compared mobil's engine oils to other brands? like, i've heard that it gives you better fuel consumption and mileage but is it true?


Here is the latest listing of Certified API SN Resource Conserving motor oils which have been tested and certified by API for superior fuel economy. http://eolcs.api.org/FindBrand...p?ServiceCategory=SN

Here is a comparison of Mobil engine oils to other brands: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf .

Here is a comparison of Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge: http://www.castroledgeusa.com/#/why-upgrade/results .

Here is a comparison of Valvoline and Mobil 1: http://www.valvoline.com/our-b.../valvoline-news/2564
Last edited by timvipond
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
This bears repeating:

To quote one SargeGTO on this synlube.

"Here are my thoughts....take em or leave em....
You betcha...the very idea of a better lube for our cars is something we all want, desire. The problem is there have been so many snake oils that credibility becomes an issue almost immediately. Then you throw in all the marketing hype posted here void of any real analytical data and you get skeptics. Of course a manufacturer is going to tell us their product is great. The web site looks like my grandson did it. No I take that back....he could do a better job.
Bottom line is this for me. They have been pimping SynLube in the United States since 1969.....and this how far they have gotten with it after almost 40 years? If it was even a fraction of what it is hyped to be any rational thinking person ( educated or uneducated) would conclude after 40 years and a company or technology is still in the "start up" mode....something is wrong.....with either the product or the folks running the business."

One would think that with what drivers in the EU pay for oil, they would be on this like flies on food at a picnic. But they are not.

Wonder why that is. Well, I don't. I'll stick with proven oils like this M1.

Data galore can be found on oil from Redline, Amsoil, Mobil, Pennzoil, QS, etc. Unlike something like synlube.

They can also be questioned without being subject to attacks from its users or defenders.
Again, unlike, well..........

Smile I have my moments Smile
quote:
Originally posted by Tim Vipond:
quote:
Originally posted by maximus:
just a qn, have you guys compared mobil's engine oils to other brands? like, i've heard that it gives you better fuel consumption and mileage but is it true?


Here is the latest listing of Certified API SN Resource Conserving motor oils which have been tested and certified by API for superior fuel economy. http://eolcs.api.org/FindBrand...p?ServiceCategory=SN

Here is a comparison of Mobil engine oils to other brands: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf .

Here is a comparison of Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge: http://www.castroledgeusa.com/#/why-upgrade/results .

Here is a comparison of Valvoline and Mobil 1: http://www.valvoline.com/our-b.../valvoline-news/2564


Tim, everything you post is just SMOKING MIRRORS with the hope that we will buy Amsoil and line your pockets with money, keep feeding us the MISINFORMATION.
Well, after partially re-reading this thread again, and ESPECIALLY reading Mr. Widman's excellent literature, It seems to me that Amsoil's 10W-40 is among the few easily found oil that can truly be called, Synthetic.

My Ranger v-6 calls for 10W-30. I pull a trailer in the summer time.

So what's left that is truly (mostly??) synthetic oil that isn't mostly Group II or III?

And let's not mention Synlube right now because I'm still in warranty and am not going to consider extended oil change intervals until I'm out of warranty.
What year ranger do you have? Why are you looking for a group IV/V oil if you are not going to do extended intervals?

If you are sticking to intervals reccomended by Ford you can use any group II and be fine. I'm running Motorcraft syn blend 5w-20 in my 2011 ranger 4 banger which is a group II with a bit of III. I run the same oil in my wifes 2008 Mazda5. The mazda MZR is for the most part the same engine as the duratech. Her car has 40k miles I do 5k mile changes and the filter (cartridge) comes out clean every time.

If you are not going to use the oil for what it was blended for (extended drains) you are wasting your money. Just my opinion of course.
The US owners manual specs 5w-30 but 10w-30 is definately more shear stable. I towed a 1800 lbs (818KG) VW with my ranger 2 weeks ago with 2 passengers, no worries. Just a bit of extra work for the cooling system and brakes. That is more weight then a 4 cylinder manual transmission ranger is rated to handle.

As for the oils you listed, both are group III but they both have shown the ability to go beyond Fords 7500 mile oil changes in some instances. I am coming up on my 2nd of three 5k mile oil changes before I go to 7500 miles.

If you idle excessively you may want to go with the shorter 5k mile interval specificed in the owners manual. The dealership I purchased my ranger from recommends 5k mile changes regardless. I change my wifes mazda at 5k miles due to idling, limited use compared to mine and higher fuel consumption then I would prefer.

Have you read Widman's paper on a root cause engine failure? Its quite good. Mileage and hours can be seperate factors.

http://www.widman.biz/English/...recommendations.html
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