motorbike lube

Without seeing it, I'm guessing the SAE might be a touch better that the one w/o the SAE. If I was in your saddle, I wouldn't use either because better stuff is available that is tried-tested & proven with all the credentials you need to keep your bike in good shape.

SAE sets the spec. It either is SAE, or it isn't. But, other countries will have their own testing methods. So, it might not be SAE, but it could be, for example, JASO/ACEA/ISO or whatever group that might spec the weights.

If you're in the states, use the SAE oil!

Some good basic motorcycle oil info.:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

Your dirt bike has an integrated engine/transmission, so you are best off using a Motorcycle Specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA. Motorcycle oils contain high pressure additives for your transmission, that "car/diesel" oil don't (can't) contain. And, some car oils have additives like moly that will make your clutch slip, so best to just stay away from car oils completely.

The oil in question may not say API because it isn't API certified. A lot of small oil blenders don't get certified because it is an expensive process. That doesn't mean that it is bad oil, but on the other hand they might not be API because they can't meet the standards (?????).

Your owners manual no doubt recommends Honda GN4, which is a basic petroleum oil (API SJ/JASO MA). My personal preference is Maxima. http://www.maximausa.com/ They have an inexpensive petroleum oil, a synth blend, and two ester based synthetics. Their add pack is incredible! I run nothing but Maxima Extra ester synthetic in my 8 dirt bikes/ATVs.

No one can ever prove they've caused damage to their bike by using non-"motorcycle specific" oil in their motorcycle. I used regular 79 cent oil in my bikes for years with absolutely no problems. In my newest bike, it calls for "an oil rated of SG (or higher) by API". Says nothing about "motorcycle specific" or JASO. Doesn't even recommend their own brand of oil (Honda).

prtdvl-Your manual says to use an oil that is SG, thing is, car oils haven't been SG for a dozen years! So, if you need an oil that is SG, it's going to have to be a motorcycle specific oil! (Car oils can't contain those additives becasue it would poison the catalytic converter.)

With so many great motorcycle oils out there with the appropriate add pack for your transmission, why even mess around with car oils and not know what you are getting???? Why date the ugly (79 cent) girl when you can have a pretty one for a little more money????

Sorry- it says "An API Classification SG or Higher, except oils rated as energy conserving on the circular API service label".

You say why date the ugly .79 oil girl? I don't anymore, this was back in the day when I was changing the oil every 3k. Now that I do it once a year or 10k, I use Amsoil. That .79 girl got me 49k on my first bike, and it ran like new when I got rid of it. Even on my newest bike, I broke it in with regular old SL non energy conserving oil for autos, it was Pennzoil though.

Don't use any oil in a wet clutch design unless it has friction modifiers in it. Or you will be replacing the clutch sooner than later.

www.lubedealer.com/jerryhillis
click on "online store" look for MCV10w-40 or MCV20w-50

Do Amsoil dealers ever read their own posts? better yet do they believe?