Skip to main content

Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

quote:
Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.


You have to be a complete idiot at this point. Do you not understand that some Grp III's match PAO's and have better solvency? Have you seen what Shell has done with a Grp III? Take a look at their Seq III G performance. It's also the additive package. You really need to get a grip and stop spreading bad information. You're only making yourself look like an idiot. LOL
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
quote:
Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.


You have to be a complete idiot at this point. Do you not understand that some Grp III's match PAO's and have better solvency? Have you seen what Shell has done with a Grp III? Take a look at their Seq III G performance. It's also the additive package. You really need to get a grip and stop spreading bad information. You're only making yourself look like an idiot. LOL


He has posted link after link that fails to support his claim. From claiming that all those class action suits over sludge prone engines were because of the oil, (They were not.), to links of people who used the wrong oil, went way over on an oci, or just blamed anything but their own stupidity.

Has made claims that using his "oil", or other oils, will result in no sludge. And, so far, has never produced any verifiable results, any independant tests, that back that up.

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...4995/m/190100014/p/2 for a taste.
quote:
You have to be a complete idiot at this point



You really need to get a grip and stop spreading bad information. You're only making yourself look like an idiot. LOL
------------------------------------------


The only idiots in this world are the ones....like yourself.......buster........who deny..........H-I-S-T-O-R-Y !!!!!!!! Who deny the F-A-C-T-S!!!


Do you have a problem with what has already happened,historically,FACTUALLY- leading up to my posts.

Prove to me I have been wrong about.......anything I have posted thus far. I have made my case several times over by now!

Prove to me I am wrong when I state that most of the cars that have/had lube issues were running mineral oil most of the time,and group III some of the time,and typically a paper type,undersized oil filter.


Prove to me that the same percent of cars with lube issue running mineral/and or group III,were equal to the percent of cars running group IV with lube issues.......BET YOU CAN'T! HISTORY WON'T LET YOU!

Where are all those sludged up Toyotas and so forth with the Group IV stuff!

Most of us readily Admit that all lubes across the board have gotten better,including group III. However, I still choose Group IV,and the facts back me!


quote: Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.


http://www.zddplus.com/TechBri...%20Base%20Stocks.pdf

The above statement,Buster...................STANDS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
My Drop to the bucket:

Just like oil will surface to the surface no matter what BP may claim about it, lies and deceptions will eventually surface too.

Yes those who lie and deceive and make it their business model will still call it something different rather than admitting they ALWAYS lied about EVERYTING, or at minimum “most everything”.

Cae in point AMSOIL, whit slogans like “First in Synthetics” but we have already discussed it.
The fact that most of AMSOIL formulations are not at all 100% “true” synthetics is becoming rather obvious as they have to increase price of their products by 3 to 6% as of August 1, 2010.

WHY ? PAO and Ester are both DOWN in cost from ALL suppliers in USA !!
But API Group III is up 6 to 10 % - Aha may be that is why, and since API Group III is 1/3 the price of pure PAO, then only if it is a substantial portion of the mix (like 50%) that would force this price increase !!!
API Group III base stock is at best even with all the additives good for about 10,000 miles of service with 16,000 being the absolute limit.
Small number of AMSOIL customers with over 90 different vehicle models spanning as much as 10 years for each model suddenly have “problems” with loosing oil pressure due to clogged oil filters and plugged oil pump screens.
This small number even if there was just ONE vehicle problem for each one listed would be in 1,200 to 1,500 range !!!
How does oil filter get “plugged” so much that oil no longer flows through it even with by-pass valve?
Oxidized LOW COST base stock, which turned to yoghurt like goo or sludge that is why!
But following in the footsteps albeit with very small shoes that were imprinted on the American Consumers by Toyota, of course it is the customers FAULT by not changing the oil filters (Claimed to last 25,000 miles) – as often as recommended by the OEM = 6,000 to 7,500 miles !!!
Or as often as 3 to 6 months – so what gives AMSOIL ?
May be rebranding SHELL products that are based on API Group III is not such a good idea after all, better go back to your roots and once again start rebranding Exxon Jet Oil, bit ooups that costs $10 to $15 per Quart nowadays so selling it for $7.00 with a discount just will not work.

May be it is time for IPO. As selling a hot air (viz-a-viz TESLA) is far more profitable in USA than actually making any product at all.
PS: The Prices of SynLube have been the same since 1996, if there was even a drop of Petroleum in it we would not be able to do that – keep the price the same !
From AMSOIL Web:

“A small number of customers with Honda, Acura, Toyota, Lexus and Pontiac vehicles with Toyota-built engines have reported that their vehicles’ oil pressure light has illuminated prior to reaching the end of the AMSOIL-recommended 25,000-mile drain interval.”

And their small number vehicle list:
following applications:
• 2001-2010 Honda
• 2002-2010 Acura
• 1992-2006 Chrysler imports
• 1993-1997 Ford Probe
• 1996-2010 Nissan/Infiniti
• 1971-2000 Mazda
• 1999-2000 Mercury Villager
• 1990-2010 Mitsubishi
• 2004-2007 Saturn
I rest my case !!!
They'll call it a small problem, replace the filter and send the customer a qt of oil. Once the oil lite comes on the damage has been done. It might not be immediate, and that's Amsoil's out, but damage has been done.

How much once again Amsoi's out and anyones's guess. A year two down the road if the car starts blowing smoke or using oil you think Amsoil will help? I don't.

I'll stick with what I can buy locally and change when the mfg suggests. Extended drain oils and filters are not my cup of tea.

Good point Trajan: The last thing Miro wants is anything floating to the surface about his oil. Somethings are best left at the bottom of the sea!

AD
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:

I'll stick with what I can buy locally and change when the mfg suggests. Extended drain oils and filters are not my cup of tea.
AD


No reasonable person should have a problem with that. Quality dino/synth oil and filter along with a reasonable oci is the way to go.

Too many links have been posted that show what happens when you don't.

I'm going to try a 10K oci with a filter change when I add oil. (Burn a qt @6k)
Trajan quoted..
quote:
I'm going to try a 10K oci with a filter change when I add oil. (Burn a qt @6k)



AAHHH...the truth comes out once again! You burn oil,and have sludge/varnish issues(You admit to using A-RX).............GOTCHA !!!!!



So, let's sum up your "STELLAR" results with this..........the so called "MFG APPROVED OIL" you're using and swear by.... is really working out well I see.......engine is burning the stuff,and the oil also sludge/varnishes up the engine. All those 'expensive' oil changes with your "Approved oil",and all the flushes,rinses,chemicals,TCW3 in the fuel(don't tell BMW/EPA),etc,etc,............SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE PROVEN MY POINT QUITE WELL-conventional wisdom/techniques don't work so well...do they!


The above issues Trajan is dealing with,is the reason why I use Synlube.

I have zero sludge,zero varnish,(zero oil burning/loss/evaporation),no chemicals or flushes ever needed,and No worries!
Last edited by captainkirk
These are all quotes from the 'other site',where everyone is still hung up on VOA,and lab results being unreliable.
-------------------------------------
"As for “simple” VOA and UOA Lab results, they are traditionally variable. Those from Oil Company Labs when testing their own products are certainly better. At a recent visit to Daimler AG in Unterturkheim, I was assured that they do their own VOAs on FF lubricants as a matter of course. Variances in supply quality do occur!

and the 0w-40 is not synthetic basestock? also, viscosity as published is an average value not an exact one. look at

Yes. Most oil companies give averages on their PDS sheets and UOA's all depend on the calibration of the test equipment and which human did them. I've had VOA's done in the past where I questioned the additive level. Resent samples three times from the same bottle and got back three different answers. All within the 10% range

The Blackstone 100C vis of 13.36 cSt is quite a bit off the M1 PDS spec' of 14.0 cSt (used to be 14.3 in the not too distant past).
That's something to keep in mind when reviewing UOAs from this lab particularly when assessing how shear prone M1 0W-40 is reported to be.


This seems to happen far too often. I know VOA/UOA are relatively inexpensive via Blackstone but having to send out a sample to verify a sketchy result does add up. It seems the adage "you get what you pay for" does apply to oil analyses. "

VOA's are not a good way to answer your question Shup1. They are good to have for reference in comparison to UOA's to see what changes occured during use. You cannot rate an oil bt its VOA


Some might be close, but when a VOA is even over a year old, it's pretty much old news. When a VOA is 4+ years old, there is almost 100% certainty it been changed by the formulator. Driven by improvement, specification chasing, cost, new and discontinued additives - lubricant formulas change.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SAVE YOUR MONEY GUYS. ......ALL THAT REALLY MATTERS IS LONG TERM PERFORMANCE,AND ACTUAL RESULTS!!! THOSE TESTS(VOA/UOA) ARE CERTAINLY GOOD AT DRAINING YOUR WALLETS-IF NOTHING ELSE! THAT'S WHY I HAVE NEVER BOTHERED!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Kirk- I hardly think Trajan has a problem. Burning a qt of oil in 6000 miles is not considered a problem. A car mfg considers oil consumption a problem when an engine uses more than 1 qt/1000 miles, anything else is considered normal.

AD


I don't burn any oil at all....ZERO! Even the German VW 1.8T uses almost Zero oil. I am going to check my records because it might be very close to Zero oil use!

I also don't do flushes with A-RX like Trajan speaks of. Don't need to!

The VW 1.8t by design should use more oil than Trajan's BMW,not way less,if any at all,unless of course the 1.8t has,you guessed it....... SYNLUBE!!!


On a side note.....


Here is a quote from Bob from a guy bragging how clean his engine is with pics using Dino oil. I could see right off the bat this engine was flushed,and guess what.........

the quote...

"Usually 4000 miles. I put on 500 miles a week so I have had intervals slip to 5000. Most of the miles I put on the car are highway miles. And I usually add a quart of kerosene to the crank case and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes before draining." (is that good for the cams?)

------------------------------------

I have noticed a distinct pattern with all the Dino/mineral users bragging about their clean engines,and how great mineral oil is,but.......they All flush their engines with chemicals/solvents.......THEN TAKE PHOTOS OF A NOW SOLVENT FLUSHED ENGINE-GIVING THE FALSE ILLUSION THE MINERAL OIL KEPT THE ENGINE CLEAN! What gives? I never flush my engines now days..........don't need to!

the link..

http://www.google.com/imgres?i...%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1
Last edited by captainkirk
We have hundreds of BMW customers about 1/2 of them swithced to SynLube at very low mileage typically before the first oil change (BECAUSE THE free SERVICE WAS JUST TOO much hastle, like coming back to pick up the car 4 hours later only to find it was not even toucvhed yet) - and with engines from 4 cylinder to 12 cylnder and they all go at least 16,000 miles before adding any oil (and most never fo between filter changes at 25,000 miles intervals). Then the other half switched AFTER the free BMW maintenance was over, or when they bought USED BMW (like Trajan did) and their oil consumption on the SAME ENGINES in SAME MY use as much as quart every 3,000 miles - which of course BMW claims is quite fine AND NORMAL !!!

So the problem really is that the FREE maintenance with the Glorified ZERO W Motor Oil causes so much wear in the 50,000 miles or 4 years that it turns ANY BMW engine in USA into Oil Burner.

And it is not one case in few hundred but 1/2 of the few hundred.

The BMW engines in Rolls Royces are the ones that get worn out the most.

So if you think the BMW Dealers use the best there is for their FREE service bit, perhaps you should do VOA on both the bottle and the stuff they pump in - I can make almost certain bet that the two are not the same, they probably use SA oil and just pocket the $75 from BMW that they get for OIL, FILTER and LABOR which probably is not enough to cover the genuine stuff.

Amazingly only MINI Dealers for most part seem to use good oil or else that NON BMW engine is more tollerant of poor quality oil.

Germans simple are not capable to make engines that do not burn oil - for PORSCHE 600 to 900 miles to a quart is OK and it is the only car in the world that has OIL LEVEL GAUGE (911) there sure is a reason why even with 14 Liters of oil it is needed !!!
quote:
Buster


Well you now have prood how "GOOD AS PAO" really is as AMSOIL mostly uses SHELL "synthetic" which they re-brand and NOW they have all these problems with thousands of cars of all makes and models clogging oil filters - that problem AMSOIL did NOT have in the past when they used PAO from Mobil.

Since neither ExxonMobil or Chevron or BP sell anything to AMSOIL, they really no longer have even a drop of PAO in any formulation - that is more involved that straight re-label.

The great "solvency" of Group III is usually gone in as little as 2,500 miles due to evaporative loss of the "solvent molecules" and oxidation of the others.

BAD PAO (Non hydrogenated, undistilled C10)has volatility of less than 6%, a good one (C12 distilled and then hydrogenated) is in 2% to 4% range and Group III is 15% and above.
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
We have hundreds of BMW customers about 1/2 of them swithced to SynLube at very low mileage typically before the first oil change (BECAUSE THE free SERVICE WAS JUST TOO much hastle, like coming back to pick up the car 4 hours later only to find it was not even toucvhed yet) - and with engines from 4 cylinder to 12 cylnder and they all go at least 16,000 miles before adding any oil (and most never fo between filter changes at 25,000 miles intervals). Then the other half switched AFTER the free BMW maintenance was over, or when they bought USED BMW (like Trajan did) and their oil consumption on the SAME ENGINES in SAME MY use as much as quart every 3,000 miles - which of course BMW claims is quite fine AND NORMAL !!!

So the problem really is that the FREE maintenance with the Glorified ZERO W Motor Oil causes so much wear in the 50,000 miles or 4 years that it turns ANY BMW engine in USA into Oil Burner.

And it is not one case in few hundred but 1/2 of the few hundred.

The BMW engines in Rolls Royces are the ones that get worn out the most.

So if you think the BMW Dealers use the best there is for their FREE service bit, perhaps you should do VOA on both the bottle and the stuff they pump in - I can make almost certain bet that the two are not the same, they probably use SA oil and just pocket the $75 from BMW that they get for OIL, FILTER and LABOR which probably is not enough to cover the genuine stuff.

Amazingly only MINI Dealers for most part seem to use good oil or else that NON BMW engine is more tollerant of poor quality oil.

Germans simple are not capable to make engines that do not burn oil - for PORSCHE 600 to 900 miles to a quart is OK and it is the only car in the world that has OIL LEVEL GAUGE (911) there sure is a reason why even with 14 Liters of oil it is needed !!!


You can, of course, prove that. Oh, wait, look who I'm asking......

So ummmm, what BMWs are factory filled with, what did you call it, 0w motor oil.

Which ones use SA oil and, as you claim, pocket the difference?

Asking you to prove anything is an excersize in futility. But unlike some posters here, one especially, I don't take the word of one like you.

Must be rough, knowing that I'll use quality, proven oil, over that garbage you peddle.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
We have hundreds of BMW customers about 1/2 of them swithced to SynLube at very low mileage typically before the first oil change (BECAUSE THE free SERVICE WAS JUST TOO much hastle, like coming back to pick up the car 4 hours later only to find it was not even toucvhed yet) - and with engines from 4 cylinder to 12 cylnder and they all go at least 16,000 miles before adding any oil (and most never fo between filter changes at 25,000 miles intervals). Then the other half switched AFTER the free BMW maintenance was over, or when they bought USED BMW (like Trajan did) and their oil consumption on the SAME ENGINES in SAME MY use as much as quart every 3,000 miles - which of course BMW claims is quite fine AND NORMAL !!!

So the problem really is that the FREE maintenance with the Glorified ZERO W Motor Oil causes so much wear in the 50,000 miles or 4 years that it turns ANY BMW engine in USA into Oil Burner.

And it is not one case in few hundred but 1/2 of the few hundred.

The BMW engines in Rolls Royces are the ones that get worn out the most.

So if you think the BMW Dealers use the best there is for their FREE service bit, perhaps you should do VOA on both the bottle and the stuff they pump in - I can make almost certain bet that the two are not the same, they probably use SA oil and just pocket the $75 from BMW that they get for OIL, FILTER and LABOR which probably is not enough to cover the genuine stuff.

Amazingly only MINI Dealers for most part seem to use good oil or else that NON BMW engine is more tollerant of poor quality oil.

Germans simple are not capable to make engines that do not burn oil - for PORSCHE 600 to 900 miles to a quart is OK and it is the only car in the world that has OIL LEVEL GAUGE (911) there sure is a reason why even with 14 Liters of oil it is needed !!!


You can, of course, prove that. Oh, wait, look who I'm asking......

So ummmm, what BMWs are factory filled with, what did you call it, 0w motor oil.

Which ones use SA oil and, as you claim, pocket the difference?

Asking you to prove anything is an excersize in futility. But unlike some posters here, one especially, I don't take the word of one like you.

Must be rough, knowing that I'll use quality, proven oil, over that garbage you peddle.



Proof............NO PROBLAMO!

http://www.google.com/search?h...BMW+BURN+OIL&spell=1



Hows that 'Quality proven oil' working out?...oh that's right......your engine sludges and you burn oil. SEE ABOVE LINK!

Oh,Oh.............BIMMER SLUDGE......Now I see why Trajan uses A-RX

http://www.google.com/images?h...ource=og&sa=N&tab=wi


So much for more frequent oil changes........right from Bimmer forums too!

quote-
There is no link between more frequent oil changes and avoiding the unfortunate sludging shown above. I think if you look at the history of these cars, either the wrong oil was used and/or the head gasket is blown allowing coolant into the oil. One post even mentioned the sudden onset of problems after the car overheated.



I used to be in the Car business. The real Germans who are really into engineering,were not very impressed with BMW,ONLY BENZ! But that was a few years ago I have to say!
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Kirk- I hardly think Trajan has a problem. Burning a qt of oil in 6000 miles is not considered a problem. A car mfg considers oil consumption a problem when an engine uses more than 1 qt/1000 miles, anything else is considered normal.

AD


You're right. It isn't a problem. It's far from a problem. The dealer doesn't see it as a problem. My mechanic doesn't. People who own and drive these cars, unlike kirk, don't see it as a problem.

No synlube, no worries.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ADFD1:
Kirk- I hardly think Trajan has a problem. Burning a qt of oil in 6000 miles is not considered a problem. A car mfg considers oil consumption a problem when an engine uses more than 1 qt/1000 miles, anything else is considered normal.

AD


You're right. It isn't a problem. It's far from a problem. The dealer doesn't see it as a problem. My mechanic doesn't. People who own and drive these cars, unlike kirk, don't see it as a problem.

-------------------------------------------

Well...then your all blind...or ignoring the obvious! Your engines are not in stellar condition.

If I were the dealer, I would also tell you the car is fine,and then say........"have a nice day and be sure to come back when the warranty runs out--and your ready for an engine overhaul"............OUT OF WARRANTY OF COURSE! LOL
Just a simple question:

Why is $46,000 car worth only $14,000 when it runs out of the 4 year 50,000 miles Warranty ?

That is the $32,000 question !!!

May be there is reason for it = it is BMW....

The Ultimate sucker machine, and the fact that it sucks oil too; is just part of the "Unique owner Experience".


Infact BMW depreciation rate is just about the same as that of a HYUNDAI, i.e. in used car business it is valued the same, that alone should be a clue.

(Except for MINI which while sold by BMW dealers from spearate showroom is not real BMW - fortunately, and thus it has the hihgest reseale value in the car industry)
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
All cars depreciate, it's called reality. How about those Yugos? What a joke they were.

AD


The explaination goes over his head. He should also realize that, in time, many cars do increase in value. Depends on many things though.

A pristine 1969 Camaro with the right options is worth more than a new 2011 model. Today, an old Isetta, well, http://autos.aol.com/used-list...-BMW/model1-Isetta/, which is far more than it costs when new.

He's only frothing at the mouth due to the very harsh light we've thrown on synlube. and the product came up short.

I would also explain to him that the 15K service on a BMW is much more than a simple oil change. But that would go over his head too.

We all know what a Yugo is worth. Even an Edsel is worth far more.

I also see that, and there is no surprise there, that once again, he can't back his "claims".

A free hint miro. Making fun of BMW doesn't faze me. Just displays the on going ignorance you convey. Good for a laugh or two.

Yugos sell for what, $100, if that now?
Last edited by trajan
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise.
This is from "Imperial Palace" in Las Vegas

"And for the collector who has everything, a yellow 1990 Yugo convertible is on display and costs only $15,000."

Previous one sold for $22,500 on Auto Auction - yes these are PERFECT CARS and not $100 beat up and abused junkers.

But then Most BMW drivers do not beat up the car bodies as much as Yugo drivers did.

Still for $5,200 car to be worth 3 times its original price is rather good return on investment.

As for any "value" - anyone can advertise anything on E-bay for any amount that does not set the value, but auction prices do (If sold).

The LOWEST priced YUGO sold at auction was for $7,500 in 2007 the highest one $22,500 a cabrio of which only 60 were made.

And guess what it was one of the 25 cabrios equipped with SynLube right out of the factory in Serbia.

And while BMW depreciates at the same rate as Hyundai, at least Hyundai warranty is twice as long and it does not burn any oil.

Even YUGOS with SynLube went at minimum 20,000 miles before they needed any oil, and for that matter OKA which I also have used only 2 quarts in 50,000 miles and that engine being 2 cylinder revs up to 9,000 RPM and is @ 4,200 to 4,500 at highway speeds about double that of any BMW at cruise speed.

Yet the 1970 design Piston Rings do just fine, none have ever broken and no engines have ever seized. The EFI OKA puts out 45 HP out of 750 cc @ 6,500 RPM, so that actually qualifies as HIGH OUTPUT.

So theoretical experimentations on high budget customer vehicles is not really the "reliable or dependable" way to build a vehicle or engine.

But as long as someone is willing to pay $20 a day just for depreciation, there always will be engineers that need to justify their existence and employment and will make their reinventions of a wheel look like the latest and the greatest.

The fact that it is a design or in service falure is none of their concern, after all they never realy drive what they have desgned, or own vehicles made by the company they work for manufacturers.

Years ago I had a pleasure at SAE meetting to sit next to a BMW engineer from Germany and after some brief conversation I found:

1.) He did not own a car - he rented what ever was available where ever he was on business, mostly flying about USA.
2.) His wife had Citroen
3.) His son an Opel.

Really strange I thought

PS: But then I found out recently that MR. Lutz did not own or drive a GM vehicle either .... and then he promotes VOLT, ah well

At least I drive OKA, YUGO, MORETTI, and BERTONE and shortly will also have a BREMACH - all SynLube Lube-4-Life equipped of course.

But really the ISSUE WAS:
Why AMSOIL Clogs filters on so many vehicles ?

Can anyone answer that one ???
KBB values based on real transaction prices in 2010

BLUE BOOK® PRIVATE PARTY VALUE
Close
Private Party Value
Kelley Blue Book Private Party Value is the amount a buyer can expect to pay when buying a used car from a private party. The Private Party Value assumes the vehicle is sold "As Is" and carries no warranty (other than any remaining factory warranty). The final sale price may vary depending on the vehicle's actual condition and local market conditions. This value may also be used to derive Fair Market Value for insurance and vehicle donation purposes.

1990 YUGO GV Value

Excellent $2,300
Good $2,150
Fair $1,650

Not bad for a car that was $5,225 MSRP and sold for about $4,900 in 1990 to be worth that much 20 years later.

This is data from the came company that depreciates BMW 62% in the first year of ownership, while MINI is worth 62% of its price 36 months later.

But still YUGO tops the list it is worth 41% of its original price (if not beat up) 20 years LATTER !!!

Compare that to most cars that are worth that much (less) just in 12 to 18 months !!!
Compare that with BMW and that is one of the "top" models: 2010 BMW M6
MSRP $$106,225.00
New 100% $102,350.00
2 45% $46,057.50
3 37% $37,869.50
4 30% $30,705.00
5 24% $24,564.00

It is 45% of its value after just 12 months, dont you wish you have YUGO ? It's value drops almost $4,000 even before it is driven off the dealer's lot - how is that for a "great" car ?
MY point of all of this is, in case you have missed it:

Great vehicles no matter the make or model retain its value over time.

Poor vehicles lose their value very very quickly.


As simple as that.

If BMW retained it's value Trajan would not be able to afford even the used one.


NO ONE Can argue with that, the data is there and available to every one, but if you elect to stick your head into a sand dune that of course is you privilege.

Similarily data is availalble about the problems conventional lubircants cause, like sludge, gel, varnish, excessive oil consumption, and so on.

I accept the fact that BMW may have "special" low tension rings, but that does not explain why cars converted to a better lubricant at low mileage DO NOT consume much oil, while those serviced at BMW for FREE do develop such "problem" when the warranty is over or in just 50,000 miles.

NO one seems to report that their car lost 2 quarts or more before the FIRST service was due, but by 45,000 iles the same vehicle "burns" oil - WHY ???

May be the 15,000 + service intervals are just TOO LONG for the stuff the BMW dealers use in these vehicles.

Clearly when the engine leaves the BMW assembly it is as perfect as can be, it is only latter that it develops the "oil consumption", so something DOES NOT last.

And if the oil you use makes a difference then of course it is lubrication related issue.

Well actually more like Tribological Issue as friction, wear and lubrication all play a role in that scenario.

And do not think of this as SynLube promotion, simple as I have stated before we have BMW customers that did not use the FREE BMW service and NONE have oil consumption issues, while those that waited for the FREE and WARRANTY to expire FIRST before they switched all are asking why is my car burning so much oil.

It is not one in many vehclies issue; it is statistically proveable trend with identical experience shared my many.

Just search the web -------
I find it quite funny reading this. Miro are you trying to say a Yugo is a better car than a BMW? Then trying to make the case for your oil?

Bad move, pick another car, YUGO was/is a POS. You're not selling your oil by pointing out that Yugo is a good car. People vote with their check books, and YGUO failed horribly in the USA. Anyone I ever heard talk about them called them throw away cars, and garbage. I think most here will agree?

Lets take a vote: Pick a car to own, anything from BMW, or anything from YUGO?

Then or now?

I'll sound off with BMW.

AD
Just to further the fact that miro doesn't know what he's talking about

Oil Service 15,000 miles

Replace oil and filter
Reset service indicator
Check front brake pads
Check rear brake pads
Check parking brake operation
Replace cabin air filter

Inspection 1 30,000 miles or 24 months (whatever is first)

The above, plus:

Check manual transmission fluid level. (If equipped)
Check all underhood componets/hoses for fluid leaks.
Check and drivebelts and replace if necessary.
Check steering and suspension components.
Check exhaust systems and mountings.
Check condition and operation of seatbelts.
Check headlight beam alignment.
Check operation of headlight/windshield washer system.
Check engine management system.
Road test.

45,000 miles/36 months

Repeat oil service.

60,000/48 months: Inspection II

repeat Ins 1
Replace spark plugs
Check drive shaft boots.

There's more to it,Like air filter changes, but it's more than the oil change he claims.

What he also doesn't mention is that the dealer arranges a loaner car for you. (I've had two 3 series sedans and a new Toyota Camry. The guy who owns the BMW dealership also owns the Toyota and Lexus dealership next to each other.)

You can of course wait at the dealer, but they give you a free loaner, so why bother.
quote:
Originally posted by BKL98MK8LSC:
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise.


Very well said. Also, I didn't know that. Thanks!!
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
I find it quite funny reading this. Miro are you trying to say a Yugo is a better car than a BMW? Then trying to make the case for your oil?

Bad move, pick another car, YUGO was/is a POS. You're not selling your oil by pointing out that Yugo is a good car. People vote with their check books, and YGUO failed horribly in the USA. Anyone I ever heard talk about them called them throw away cars, and garbage. I think most here will agree?

Lets take a vote: Pick a car to own, anything from BMW, or anything from YUGO?

Then or now?

I'll sound off with BMW.

AD


BMW, Porsche, Trans AM/Camaro SS. 2011 Mustang 5.0. Even my mother's 2001 Alero. A nice car really, even though it has a 4cyl. Corvette.

Yugos have the best front end protection around..... it's called a tow truck.

http://freeweb.deltha.hu/zastava.in.hu/jokes.htm

Consumer Reports, in its review of the Yugo, called the car "hard to recommend at any price" and concluded that "you'd be better off buying a good used car than a new Yugo."

The Yugo stands out as the only car from a non-U.S. manufacturer to make the Hagerty Insurance "Most Questionable Cars" list.

"I threatened a couple of times to buy one and leave it in somebody's driveway," said McKeel Hagerty, president of Hagerty Insurance.
quote:
Originally posted by BKL98MK8LSC:
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise.


------------------------------------------

This low ring pressure is not an engineering compromise.......it's an engineering achievement!


All,if not most vehicles are now able to use low ring tension because of modern day engineering techniques that allow for very,very precise bore/piston tolerances that could not be achieved years ago.

Years ago,especially during a rebuild,a very tight install/ring pressure was needed so that the engine could "run in-break in"....and if done correctly, yielded a well broken-in engine,that used little oil,and now had a very good 'fit'. Anyone who raced with a brand new car back in the day would surely scuff/score the cylinder walls/piston-rings/skirts,etc. before a thorough run-in was achieved......causing an oil burner!


Today,the engines are leaving the factory with little break in needed,because the tolerances,and quality control are that much better............especially in a BMW. Yes,this does allow for less friction/drag, better throttle response,less heat,and better fuel economy!


Also realize that less engine break-in also equates to less metallic debris in the engine during this critical period,and less overall initial wear.


It would make absolutely no sense to fuss over all the emission/EPA issues/hurdles, only to build a 'sloppy' engine that burns oil,damages the cat,and pollutes the environment....that would be absurd. Also,compression loses must be kept to a minimum,otherwise any and all fuel economy improvements would be lost due to the loss of power from excess blow-by!


If you installed the best motor oil in these German cars,or any car when they are brand new,or close to new.....they will not 'burn',or use oil.

The best motor oil if you're wondering, is not on store shelves anywhere in America. It has to be special ordered! Or, if you live in Europe,you would be able to find really good motor oil unlike on American store shelves!

Also realize that really smart European motorists don't need to fuss over VOA/UOA like some on these boards are doing and spending a small fortune to analyze.. 'garbage motor oil' That never has made any sense to me. You are throwing good money after-bad on that one!


Engine design link.......(six years old)......tolerances are even better now since it was written

http://webcache.googleusercont...=us&client=firefox-a

A newer link for the motor heads.....

http://www.underhoodservice.co...9778/Advances_i.aspx
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Since the tolerances are so much better and engines tighter, I'd stay clear of that 50 grade oil you're pushing and follow mfg specs, using an approved oil.


No point mail ordering anything, pick a good synthetic oil from a reputable company and have at it.


AD


Stay clear of 50 Grade.....Why?

The European engineers are all for heavier oil. That includes 10w-60.

http://www.voltronic-germany.com/Motor-Oil-10W60.htm


You say pick a good oil(in stores)................where?

Trajan did what you say and now look at his engine. Burns oil,needs to be flushed all the time,etc. So,hows that MFG 'approved' oil working out?...............

http://www.motorator.com/uploa...Line_Oil_10W60_3.jpg
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Since the tolerances are so much better and engines tighter, I'd stay clear of that 50 grade oil you're pushing and follow mfg specs, using an approved oil.


No point mail ordering anything, pick a good synthetic oil from a reputable company and have at it.


AD


One of his own links states that one way to combat sludge is to use the correct viscosity. Using synlube in a Mustang isn't it.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Since the tolerances are so much better and engines tighter, I'd stay clear of that 50 grade oil you're pushing and follow mfg specs, using an approved oil.


No point mail ordering anything, pick a good synthetic oil from a reputable company and have at it.


AD


One of his own links states that one way to combat sludge is to use the correct viscosity. Using synlube in a Mustang isn't it.



How would you know about mustangs and synlube.

You own neither.

I own a mustang with synlube in the engine. It uses ZERO OIL,HAS ZERO SLUDGE. The oil filter cut open with 10,500 was spotless. The engine is spotless.

This is my car, and that makes me an expert for this particular car and what is going on with the engine and so forth.

I also cut open the oil filter on the VW 1.8t filter and it too was-spotless at 10k on just the filter! I could have gone to 20k on that filter,easily!

Remember,the 1.8t is a known sludge monster-and I have ZERO SLUDGE,ZERO ISSUES. No check engine light,spotless engine innards,and always passes inspection/emissions. The biggest highlight with this car is the car wash.

Unlike Your German car that burns oil,and needs engine flushes.............my German car doesn't have those issues.


This is what happens when you go to the dealer for an oil change...

http://www.motorator.com/uploa...Line_Oil_10W60_3.jpg


YOU ALLOW THEM TO DESTROY YOUR ENGINE WITH---'APPROVED OIL' LOL
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Since the tolerances are so much better and engines tighter, I'd stay clear of that 50 grade oil you're pushing and follow mfg specs, using an approved oil.


No point mail ordering anything, pick a good synthetic oil from a reputable company and have at it.


AD


Stay clear of 50 Grade.....Why?

The European engineers are all for heavier oil. That includes 10w-60.

http://www.voltronic-germany.com/Motor-Oil-10W60.htm


You say pick a good oil(in stores)................where?

Trajan did what you say and now look at his engine. Burns oil,needs to be flushed all the time,etc. So,hows that MFG 'approved' oil working out?...............

http://www.motorator.com/uploa...Line_Oil_10W60_3.jpg


Good stores, Walmart, AAP, Auto Zone, back home, East Coast, Auto Barn. That's where I get my oil, not from out of a trunk or a car in an alley way. Or give a CC# to someone w/o a business address and pray I get my oil.

A qt of oil in 6000 miles is no oil burner, ask any good mechanic.

Keeping an engine internals clean is something a lot of car buffs do. My father and uncle call it preventative maint. It spilled over to me. A pint of MMO for a 1000 miles or so keeps my engine spotless. My uncle has that Ford PU with now over 275,000 miles running strong and clean, dino oil, and MMO from time to time. No problems to report. I bet he gets 300K+ out of it, and it hauls a 25' boat and trailer weighing over 6500 lbs. No sweat.


I can't comment for Trajan as to why he's cleaning an engine, if I had to guess he is a car buff and is looking at PM like many here.

AD
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Since the tolerances are so much better and engines tighter, I'd stay clear of that 50 grade oil you're pushing and follow mfg specs, using an approved oil.


No point mail ordering anything, pick a good synthetic oil from a reputable company and have at it.


AD


Stay clear of 50 Grade.....Why?

The European engineers are all for heavier oil. That includes 10w-60.

http://www.voltronic-germany.com/Motor-Oil-10W60.htm


You say pick a good oil(in stores)................where?

Trajan did what you say and now look at his engine. Burns oil,needs to be flushed all the time,etc. So,hows that MFG 'approved' oil working out?...............

http://www.motorator.com/uploa...Line_Oil_10W60_3.jpg


Good stores, Walmart, AAP, Auto Zone, back home, East Coast, Auto Barn. That's where I get my oil, not from out of a trunk or a car in an alley way. Or give a CC# to someone w/o a business address and pray I get my oil.

A qt of oil in 6000 miles is no oil burner, ask any good mechanic.

Keeping an engine internals clean is something a lot of car buffs do. My father and uncle call it preventative maint. It spilled over to me. A pint of MMO for a 1000 miles or so keeps my engine spotless. My uncle has that Ford PU with now over 275,000 miles running strong and clean, dino oil, and MMO from time to time. No problems to report. I bet he gets 300K+ out of it, and it hauls a 25' boat and trailer weighing over 6500 lbs. No sweat.


I can't comment for Trajan as to why he's cleaning an engine, if I had to guess he is a car buff and is looking at PM like many here.

AD


If you're into all that old school stuff.........go-for-it! I used to do all that old school stuff too,so I know it works,but it's also work/expense to do it. It also creates a lot of chemical waste you have to deal with,so why bother when you don't need to.
I can't recall ever saying that I "flush" my engine once, to say nothing of "all the time."

As for oil consumption, well, not only is it at acceptable levels, but it was explained above why. But I guess that's too technical for kirk.

Now, I am doing an arx cycle. Not because I need it, because I don't. Or even think I need it.

The reason is very technical. Very difficult to understand for some. well, who am I kidding. Difficult for kirk/inhal. But I'll see if I can dumb it down. Nah..... no need to

Ready, here is my very technical reason for doing an arx clean/rinse.

I................feel...................like it.

Hopefully, not too technical.

And AD is right, A car buff who does PM.

Maybe kirk should read this again?

*******Originally posted by BKL98MK8LSC:
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise. ********
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
I can't recall ever saying that I "flush" my engine once, to say nothing of "all the time."

As for oil consumption, well, not only is it at acceptable levels, but it was explained above why. But I guess that's too technical for kirk.

Now, I am doing an arx cycle. Not because I need it, because I don't. Or even think I need it.

The reason is very technical. very difficult to understand for some. well, who am I kidding. Difficult for kirk. But I'll see if I can dumb it down. Nah..... no need to

Ready, here is my very technical reason for doing an arx clean/rinse.

I................feel...................like it.

Hopefully, not too technical



---------------------------------------

Here is something not too technical for you trajan, why I use Synlube...........

I.....................feel...........LIKE..........it!!!


Oh,by the way- regarding synlube

IT......................ALSO............WORKS.........REALLY..........REALLY.........WELL!



ONE MORE THING-TRAJAN....

YOUR QUOTE:
Ready, here is my very technical reason for doing an arx clean/rinse.

I................feel...................like it. (INCORRECT)......... YOU NEED TO CLEAN/RINSE WITH THAT 'APPROVED OIL' YOU USE) -BECAUSE IT CREATES VARNISH IN THE ENGINE-AND YOU KNOW IT!!

Hopefully, not too technical
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

Maybe kirk should read this again?

*******Originally posted by BKL98MK8LSC:
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise. ********




TRAJAN........I've got more technical knowledge/know-how,than you'll ever have.

I already explained the ring pressure issue. Here it is again.


This low ring pressure is not an engineering compromise.......it's an engineering achievement!


All,if not most vehicles are now able to use low ring tension because of modern day engineering techniques that allow for very,very precise bore/piston tolerances that could not be achieved years ago.

Years ago,especially during a rebuild,a very tight install/ring pressure was needed so that the engine could "run in-break in"....and if done correctly, yielded a well broken-in engine,that used little oil,and now had a very good 'fit'. Anyone who raced with a brand new car back in the day would surely scuff/score the cylinder walls/piston-rings/skirts,etc. before a thorough run-in was achieved......causing an oil burner!


Today,the engines are leaving the factory with little break in needed,because the tolerances,and quality control are that much better............especially in a BMW. Yes,this does allow for less friction/drag, better throttle response,less heat,and better fuel economy! BUT NOT OIL BURNING!


Also realize that less engine break-in also equates to less metallic debris in the engine during this critical period,and less overall initial wear.


It would make absolutely no sense to fuss over all the emission/EPA issues/hurdles, only to build a 'sloppy' engine that burns oil,damages the cat,and pollutes the environment....that would be absurd. Also,compression loses must be kept to a minimum,otherwise any and all fuel economy improvements would be lost due to the loss of power from excess blow-by!


If you installed the best motor oil in these German cars,or any car when they are brand new,or close to new.....they will not 'burn',or use oil.

The best motor oil if you're wondering, is not on store shelves anywhere in America. It has to be special ordered! Or, if you live in Europe,you would be able to find really good motor oil unlike on American store shelves!

Also realize that really smart European motorists don't need to fuss over VOA/UOA like some on these boards are doing and spending a small fortune to analyze.. 'garbage motor oil' That never has made any sense to me. You are throwing good money after-bad on that one!


Engine design link.......(six years old)......tolerances are even better now since it was written

http://webcache.googleusercont...=us&client=firefox-a

A newer link for the motor heads.....

http://www.underhoodservice.co...9778/Advances_i.aspx


WELL TRAJAN..............SHOW US YOUR TECHNICAL EVALUATION/EXPERTISE! Big Grin OH,THAT'S RIGHT,YOU HAVE NONE!
Last edited by captainkirk
Miro quoted:
quote:
But really the ISSUE WAS:
Why AMSOIL Clogs filters on so many vehicles ?

Can anyone answer that one ???



I would say the first mistake on Amsoil's part was and/is recommending up to 25k on every one of their filters,especially the Mico-sized foreign car application. Those were clogging up before 10,000 miles in some of the lexus/Toyota models.

The way-undersized filters would have worked if the engines were spotless when the Amsoil was installed.......and only then if Amsoil was formulated not to oxidize/crystallize and then subsequently clog the tiny filters.

There must be an issue with the oil breaking down in these high tech/ultra-low emission engines and not capable of nowhere near a 25k OCI-clogging up the 'tiny' filters into major bypass mode...unless the car 'lives' on the freeway all day long,and runs quality fuel as well,then maybe up-to-25k.

A larger oil filter is always good for many reasons,if nothing more than insurance,but the oil quality is paramount,and the oil filter should compliment the oil,not the other way around.
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
My Drop to the bucket:

Just like oil will surface to the surface no matter what BP may claim about it, lies and deceptions will eventually surface too.



So synlube like..........


So Trajan like. Where's that engine belonging to you neighbour that sludged-up using Synlube, eh Big Mouth?

Well?
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

Must be rough, knowing that I'll use quality, proven oil, over that garbage you peddle.


Temper, temper. Another dumber than dirt statement from the great orator, TRAJAN. You use quality, proven oil, do you? Why do you use ARX to clean up that engine of yours if your oil is so wonderful? You should listen more to Capt. Kirk who sucessfully uses a product that would have prevented your engine from becoming an oil burner and from becoming filthy with sludge and varnish! Wake up, man and smell the coffee.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
You're right. It isn't a problem. It's far from a problem. The dealer doesn't see it as a problem. My mechanic doesn't. People who own and drive these cars, unlike kirk, don't see it as a problem.

No synlube, no worries.


Dirty engine. Burns oil. Using ARX to fix. Blame the original owner. No problem. BMW says so. No problem. Mechanic say so. No problem. What me worry? Alfred E. Newman = Trajan.
6000 miles and a qt of oil is needed, come on guys lets get real. That is not oil burning.

With all the positive press 3 people are giving Synlube, only two of them are using it. One of them owns the company. The other a shill. How come no one else is stepping up to the plate? Probably because most people reading about it realize what it's all about.

AD
fowvay quote...

I used this stuff after reading an article in European Car. At least I think it was European Car magazine back then.... anyhoo...

I put it in my 1986 Jetta Diesel at 121,000 miles and installed a canton mecca remote oil filter at the same time. I changed the filter every 25,000 miles and added a quart of oil at that time.

I sold the car at 486,000 miles after it was rear ended by a Chevy Chevette doing 45mph. It still ran great and delivered a solid 42mpg in the city (redline to redline shifts) and averaged a healthy 52mpg at 70mph.

I did change the oil out every 50,000 miles as per there directions back in the early 90's and allthough extremly black it still was performing very well and there was no sludge build up anywhere.

I thought the company had fallen off the face of the Earth or had gone out of business. That is untill today when I came across a link to it from another website.

I will try it out first in our Ford Focus since it sees the most use. I will report back in 2 years when it had accumalted 50,000 miles and let you know the averages.
__________________
My 1.8T New Beetle "Pomelo" | Fowvay2000 | My 1970 Bug "Oscar"
"How to" Light your bud vase | "How To" Get your trunk to pop open & Fix that trunk rattle
Instant liter per 100km to mpg converter | Tire size calculator | "How to" install Audi TT dash vents
"How to" replace your broken antenna base | "How to" replace your brakes | "How to" remove your head lights
Fowvay2000 is offline Reply With Quote


-------------------------------------------

jonny-b-quote

Hi, Gary Allan. I will also take a VOA and send it in together with the UOA. I have been driving 10000 km(6200 miles) now, since I filled my old Nissan with Synlube. All I can say now, is that this seem to be the best oil I have ever used. However, this is based on sounds from the engine being gradually reduced, how the engine idles and how I think it performs,as well as a slight reduction in fuelconsumption. I will do a lot of driving this summer, so I was planning to send in a UOA when I reach some 20K miles.
I also have ordered their gear oil, and already have their oil in the diff. I also ordered their microglass filter, and I will replace the OEM Nissan oil filter with this. I don't think you can go wrong, by using their products, but if anyone can give some info proving otherwise, I would be glad to know. In the meantime, I keep on driving to test it.


And Many,many others like myself and so forth have been using synlube for many years now.........
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
6000 miles and a qt of oil is needed, come on guys lets get real. That is not oil burning.

With all the positive press 3 people are giving Synlube, only two of them are using it. One of them owns the company. The other a shill. How come no one else is stepping up to the plate? Probably because most people reading about it realize what it's all about.

AD


Why doesn't inhaliburton step up to the plate???????

Yep. it's far from oil burning. Especially when you consider what BKL pointed out. Which I'll post again since they *still* don't get it:

*****Originally posted by BKL98MK8LSC:
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise.*****

The problem these three have is that no one, either here or at bitog, is jumping on their bandwagon.

Still a mystery why one of the fans fears to use it. Or why the other two don't go after him.

Only someone who knows nothing about BMWs, or cars in general, would find 1qt/6k a problem.
A few years ago: http://www.pistonslap.com/tsb/010601011A.pdf

The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946
liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under
warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less
than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal
speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.

Oops, they've been skunked again.

They probably feel the same way about Mazda's rotary engine as well.

A sure fire sign you're burning oil is the cloud of blue smoke. Don't have that.

I should also point out that none of my three fans stuck their beaks in this thread until *after* I chose the oil. Very telling.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

Maybe kirk should read this again?

*******Originally posted by BKL98MK8LSC:
BMW uses low tension piston ring sets on purpose. They provide less parasitic drag on the cylinder walls and superior cylinder lubrication at high RPM high load. Small and large high specific output engines from many brands use this strategy. Not a problem. They are designed this way for A reason. Its not the oils fault they chose this engineering compromise. ********



I already explained the ring pressure issue. Here it is again.


This low ring pressure is not an engineering compromise.......it's an engineering achievement!

All engineering is a combination of compromises. It is possible to go to far with any of them. The best choices are a matter of constant debate and tend to become self evident over time through successes ,failures or plain mediocrity. Some companies are better at making these decisions than others. The same goes for oil companies and car companies.
quote:
Originally
jonny-b-quote

Hi, Gary Allan. I will also take a VOA and send it in together with the UOA. I have been driving 10000 km(6200 miles) now, since I filled my old Nissan with Synlube. All I can say now, is that this seem to be the best oil I have ever used. However, this is based on sounds from the engine being gradually reduced, how the engine idles and how I think it performs,as well as a slight reduction in fuelconsumption. I will do a lot of driving this summer, so I was planning to send in a UOA when I reach some 20K miles.
I also have ordered their gear oil, and already have their oil in the diff. I also ordered their microglass filter, and I will replace the OEM Nissan oil filter with this. I don't think you can go wrong, by using their products, but if anyone can give some info proving otherwise, I would be glad to know. In the meantime, I keep on driving to test it.


And Many,many others like myself and so forth have been using synlube for many years now.........


jonny-b has been on other sites pushing different products from time to time, a ceramic additive that could repair the internals of worn out engines comes to mind. He pushed that hot and heavy too. I take anything he says with a grain of salt, as did many others.

Then there is the recent Yogo debate, and how they held value. Some cars become collectable and desireable because they represent GARBAGE, engineering nightmares, horror stories, or stupidity. The Yugo meets all of the above and probably more.

AD
Last edited by adfd1
Ah yes, ole jonny b. The guy who insulted anyone who dared question synlube. Or any other miracle in a can..... never did that VOA/UOA.

Just like inhaliburton. a guy who not only still defends a swill known as synlube, but is too scared, lacks the courage of his convictions, isn't man enough, to actually use it.

What can you expect from a child who, being that he lacks any ability, can only do things like make up lies. Find that thread you accussed me of inflicting ruin on yet? Oh, that's right, you made it up.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
All engineering is a combination of compromises.



The only thing I see that's compromised is the store bought oil some are using,and then go on to shout....hey, it's MFG APPROVED so it must be the best stuff I can buy 'locally' for my engine!

Believe me,these foreign car MFG'S need to sell cars worldwide,so they have to 'pick' whatever they hope to be the best oil in that particular country(u.s.a)......otherwise they wouldn't sell any cars in that country. What would you do,what do you expect them to do.

If BMW had their druthers,they would spec what oil the engine actually needs the most......however, the oil is typically just not available,so they just- 'pick their poison' so to speak for what the typical American will install in that model of car,and hope for the best.... So far,not so good!

The domestic automakers are basically doing the same thing........being forced to pick the best motor oil when there are not really very good choices....hence the reason for the new dexos standard(dictated by GM,not big-oil) just around the corner. Gm is tired of low quality motor oil choices,ruining their engines.

Many of these BMW-M cars burn almost NO oil,and many burn oil like crazy. Some are getting rebuilds way before 150k........using so-called MFG Approved oil.

I blame the low quality oils being used,for the most part. If the engines are 'compromised' as you say.........then all the more reason to use the best possible lubricant..ignoring the 'useless'-MFG APPROVED GARBAGE oil that is apparently very good at killing these engines early.

I am willing to wager that European cars,using European motor oils-in Europe,don't burn oil,and wear out like their American counterparts. The American oils being installed at the dealerships are ruining those engines early on...........including the domestic cars as well.


AND THEN.........THERE IS ALWAYS PLAN-B

http://search.yahoo.com/search...=sb-top&fr=yfp-t-701


OR..........PLAN-C



http://www.newcar.com/14/yugo/index.html

The incarnated new YUGO...Comming soon to a dealer near you!

http://blogs.consumerreports.o...wheel-fiat-500-.html
Last edited by captainkirk
I think we agree on some points. GM did not go with their own specification because they were happy with API. Being blown off for a period of years makes the general REAL unhappy. What their specific issues are I dont know but certainly it was something. Europe and japan have gone their own way and are not immune to problems. I think the elephant in the room that is causing issues is government regulations. Pressure to reduce waste streams to a minimum got the Europeans to specify long OCI and some got bit. Regulations on VOC emissions here have made crankcase ventilation systems very effective moisture traps. CAFE standards are pushing manufacturers to spec lighter oils than they would otherwise use,even if only slightly. Non of these are deal breakers when all you have to do is change your oil to fix it. Forcing 100000 mile catalytic converter life at the expense of safe reliable engine wear protection and sabotaging older engines with mechanical valve trains is a piss poor use of government power,however well intentioned. The engineering responses to regulation are as varied as can be,some are successful,some not. BMW is not immune to this. The crank case ventilation system on some models can fail in very cold weather and suck all the crankcase oil into the intake manifold and cause engine destruction. Not the oils fault unless you count water trapped in it. When the water freezes the valve fails. These may be the failures your referring to.
quote:
Originally posted by BLK98MK8LSC:

The crank case ventilation system on some models can fail in very cold weather and suck all the crankcase oil into the intake manifold and cause engine destruction. Not the oils fault unless you count water trapped in it. When the water freezes the valve fails. These may be the failures your referring to.


That is a problem in the colder climates. IIRC there is a cold climate version of it. It's insulated IIRC.

FWIW, "normal" PCV valves can have the same thing happen. For instance: http://www.subaruforester.org/...-ltd-heads-up-47434/

Not a problem I have though.
quote:
Originally posted by BLK98MK8LSC:
I wasnt picking on BMW but on the VOC emission regs that dictate sealed up tight crank cases. They trap moisture to the point of build up. Does depend on conditions.


I know, I just didn't see the need to quote the whole post Smile

You may find this of interest:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/foru...wthread.php?t=422965

"To cool the piston crowns directly, nearly all BMW engines are equipped with oil spray jets that moisten the piston crowns with engine oil."

I wasn't aware they had that feature.
Low tension rings for superior cylinder lube. Check.

Oil spray jets for the piston crowns. Check.

Very acceptable oil consumption rates as determined by the people who know what they're doing. Check.

Nobody buying what miro/kirk/inhal sell. Check.

Miro/kirk/inhal displaying their wealth of ignorance on such things. Check and mate.
Oil Consumption is oil consumption, no matter how much or little it is.

Strange though that is seem to have inverse relationship to perceived quality.

Terrible cars like YUGO and HUYNDAI do NOT burn much oil typically 20,000 miles or more to a Quart.

And then really great cars like Cadillac with Nothstar, Porsche, VW, AUDI and of course BMW do consume "what is normal"

That said PORSCHE 911 TURBO wins, it needs 14 quarts to lube engine that only holds 3.2 Liters, as it burns so much oil !

So chill out it is the BEST engine /car combination in the World made today !!!

So next time you go to your Lexus dealer for a recall on broken this or that and stuck this or that, COMPLAIN that it is not up to par as it is NOT burning MORE oil than PORSCHE, and thus it is an inferior vehicle...

The oil consumption proves it !!!
OH took some time but finally found it the best car of all times ever sold in USA !!!

It is "nearly" worthless, so not as good as ZERO valued car would be:

Excellent $300
Good $225
Fair $138

1990 Sterling, and OH add Moon Roof which gets stuck in perpetually open position, and that reduces the value another $50.

After all it is superior feature to have "open" car that way more people can enjoy the incredible almost 10 times better than BMW engineering - correct after all it is worth 1/10 of 1990 M3......YA!!!

Why some (and the same) people have to always deny truth and reality? Because admitting they have made mistake or unsupported claim is so painful to them. But it also reveals their character, those that can not admit they are wrong or at least incorrect sometimes; do not have any character to speak of.

“No persons are more frequently wrong, than those who will not admit they are wrong !”
“All truth passes through three stages:
First, it is ridiculed;
Second, it is violently opposed;
Third, it is accepted as self-evident."

“Those who have failed to accept the truth have missed the purpose of living.

“I quote others only to better express myself” !
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
quote:
ADFD1


In 1990 you could get 3 YUGO's for a price of one M3 BMW

Today you can get 2 used M3 (1990) for a price of ONE used YUGO (1990).

Funny how that proves your theory tested over 20 year time period.

May the best car be worth-less !!!


You're funny. In 1990 Yugo was garbage, and anyone in their right mind would have passed on the 3 Yugo's and took the BMW M3. Today Yugo represents, garbage, junk, a mistake of a car, in a car collectors garage.

I'm sure when a father and son visit a car collection if there is a Yugo in the collection the father probably says to the son something like this: "Son you see that POS, they were throw away death traps back in the day, total junk." That was what my father told me when I mentioned the Yugo discussion in this thread.

BTW- Miro some engines by design use oil, its not the fault of the oil, nor the owner of the car. It's just a fact of life.

AD
And yet, the M3 is still in production. Why do you suppose that is miro? Tell me, how many 2009 Yugo were sold here?

A 1990 Corvette could buy alot of Yugos as well. As could a 1990 911. A Rolls Royce silver spur. Bently. Lamborghini Diablo. Lincoln. In 1990, good used cars were worth more than a new Yugo.

Today, those cars, used, are worth far, far, more, than a Yugo.

And at least you can stop any of them on a bridge and not get blown off it by high wind.

Poor guy, One of his fans refuses to use his juice. No one else here is either. His precious Yugo is the joke of the auto industry. His, and his minions, knowledge of auto engineering is laughable.

Oh, I forgot. As I pointed out in another thread, a used Yugo goes for $10. So tell me miro, just where can I buy this $5 M3? I want to buy a few.

NATO did the world a huge favor when they bombed the factory.
Last edited by trajan
I can't believe anyone with any level of intelligence can even mention a Yugo as being even remotely good. That alone tells me to stay clear of his oil. He would have been better off never mentioning the word Yugo. Ask anyone who drove one what they thought of it. My dad and his buddy test drove one for S&G, he said pathetic would have been a tremendous compliment for it. They laughed all the way home from the dealership.

AD
Well the three have demostrated, again, their overall level of knowledge of oil and engineering.

A side note. How cool is this: http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/38211262

General Motors Co. said Monday that buyers who order a 2011 Corvette Z06 or ZR1 can help assemble their cars' high-performance LS7 and LS9 engines. The automaker believes the program is the first of its kind in the industry.

How many Yugos can you buy for that, let alone the price of a ZR1?
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
Oil Consumption is oil consumption, no matter how much or little it is.

Strange though that is seem to have inverse relationship to perceived quality.

Terrible cars like YUGO and HUYNDAI do NOT burn much oil typically 20,000 miles or more to a Quart.

And then really great cars like Cadillac with Nothstar, Porsche, VW, AUDI and of course BMW do consume "what is normal"

That said PORSCHE 911 TURBO wins, it needs 14 quarts to lube engine that only holds 3.2 Liters, as it burns so much oil !

So chill out it is the BEST engine /car combination in the World made today !!!

So next time you go to your Lexus dealer for a recall on broken this or that and stuck this or that, COMPLAIN that it is not up to par as it is NOT burning MORE oil than PORSCHE, and thus it is an inferior vehicle...

The oil consumption proves it !!!


And to think that Germain engineering has been revered for decades. Perhaps in other areas, but I'm not impressed anymore. I have some Yuppi friends who drive them and a lot of the "guys-talk" at Yuppi parties is about their rides. Ultimately it gets around to service and how expensive and how often their rides need service. But most of these over stuffed individuals can likely afford it.
Same here, I do about 5-6K in 6 months, and change the oil in June/December. Those months carried over from when I lived in NY, just before the heat, or real cold weather. It would be slightly lower on the stick but not enough to add any oil.

Still a qt in 6,000 miles is nothing. I'd think a little oil making it to the top of the cylinders is a good thing, especially if the car sits for days at a time before getting used again.

AD
And yet, this dumber than dirt moron aka inhaliburton, does have a problem with it.

I knew that my explaination as to why I use auto rx, (to repeat , because I feel like it), was too technical for him. My fault for using big words I guess. Or was it too many words?

No wonder that he can't understand things like low tension rings and oil spray jets.

Maybe if he pried his lips off of kirk/kerfurt behind?

So much faith in kirk/miro/synlube. And still, too scared to use it.

Wonder why he doesn't own a Yugo.


Malcolm Bricklin, he of the Bricklin SV1, wouldn't be satisfied until he had forced every American to walk to work. To that end, in 1985, he began importing the Yugo GV, which turned out to be the Mona Lisa of bad cars. Built in Soviet-bloc Yugoslavia, the Yugo had the distinct feeling of something assembled at gunpoint. The engines went ka-blooey, the electrical system — such as it was — would sizzle, and things would just fall off. Yugo. Or not.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

Malcolm Bricklin, he of the Bricklin SV1, wouldn't be satisfied until he had forced every American to walk to work. To that end, in 1985, he began importing the Yugo GV, which turned out to be the Mona Lisa of bad cars. Built in Soviet-bloc Yugoslavia, the Yugo had the distinct feeling of something assembled at gunpoint. The engines went ka-blooey, the electrical system — such as it was — would sizzle, and things would just fall off. Yugo. Or not.


They have value as a mistake, junk, garbage, trash, a POS, and a good laugh to collectors. For that people might spend nice money to have one now.

AD
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

Malcolm Bricklin, he of the Bricklin SV1, wouldn't be satisfied until he had forced every American to walk to work. To that end, in 1985, he began importing the Yugo GV, which turned out to be the Mona Lisa of bad cars. Built in Soviet-bloc Yugoslavia, the Yugo had the distinct feeling of something assembled at gunpoint. The engines went ka-blooey, the electrical system — such as it was — would sizzle, and things would just fall off. Yugo. Or not.


They have value as a mistake, junk, garbage, trash, a POS, and a good laugh to collectors. For that people might spend nice money to have one now.

AD


One of those "they're so bad they're good" things. Like Ed Wood's "Plan 9 from Outer Space."
quote:
BTW- Miro some engines by design use oil, its not the fault of the oil, nor the owner of the car. It's just a fact of life.


Same can be said about oil leaks, that does not make it good, just a failed desin not properly tested before put in to production.

And what about those engines that use "coolant" is that OK if it is by design as well ?

You can even expand that thought in to engines that have slight turbo oil seal leakages (FORD Diesels) and think of it as a minor problem as the part is only $4.80.

That you have to remove the cab and spend up to 27 hours doing it, is also just "by design" and fact of life - just tell that to any POWERSTROKE owner with "out of warranty" FORD and that it is $2,500 in labor to replase $4.80 part, which of course is "normal", by your standard.

My mine BAD design is just that a BAD DESIGN, and no amount of glorification and excuses will do.

It is the people that used to OWN a YUGO that are paying top price for good running vehicles in 2010 - as $2,500 to $3,000 will buy a reliable easy and inexpensively fixeable car that will last another 10 to 20 years - that is why it is worth so much !!! (in 2010).

PepBoys and AutoZone as well as number of "specialists" all have reasonably priced parts for it in 2010 - just try to buy anything for 1990 BMW at PepBoys thei will laugh you out of the door !!!

Because $5,000 when YUGO was new was so good, and 163,000 Americans bought them, GM and FORD panicked and introduced "SPRINT - later GEO" and FESTIVA, and TOYOTA the DAIHATSU.

If it was not for YUGO none of these car would have seen the light of the day in USA.

Similar situation today millions of people in the world like India and China are TODAY buying NEW cars for as little as $3,200 and getting transportation for it.

In USA $16,000 is about the cheapest car you can buy and on a rare occasion as low as $12,000 today $10,000 car no longer exists!

About 40 million buyers in USA would buy cheap car if there was one, rather than having a used one.

But FIAT/CHRYSLER decided that they will rather sell in USA the 500 for $25,000 first.

600 which sells in some markets for as little as $6,200 could be under $10,000 car, millions would buy it but no that could actually save CHRYSLER and make money and that would not go well with UAW.

And of course they will make the 500 in Mexico anyway.

And if you find $10 YUGO bring it over I will give you $1,000!!!
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
quote:
BTW- Miro some engines by design use oil, its not the fault of the oil, nor the owner of the car. It's just a fact of life.


Same can be said about oil leaks, that does not make it good, just a failed desin not properly tested before put in to production.

And what about those engines that use "coolant" is that OK if it is by design as well ?

You can even expand that thought in to engines that have slight turbo oil seal leakages (FORD Diesels) and think of it as a minor problem as the part is only $4.80.

That you have to remove the cab and spend up to 27 hours doing it, is also just "by design" and fact of life - just tell that to any POWERSTROKE owner with "out of warranty" FORD and that it is $2,500 in labor to replase $4.80 part, which of course is "normal", by your standard.

My mine BAD design is just that a BAD DESIGN, and no amount of glorification and excuses will do.

It is the people that used to OWN a YUGO that are paying top price for good running vehicles in 2010 - as $2,500 to $3,000 will buy a reliable easy and inexpensively fixeable car that will last another 10 to 20 years - that is why it is worth so much !!! (in 2010).

PepBoys and AutoZone as well as number of "specialists" all have reasonably priced parts for it in 2010 - just try to buy anything for 1990 BMW at PepBoys thei will laugh you out of the door !!!

Because $5,000 when YUGO was new was so good, and 163,000 Americans bought them, GM and FORD panicked and introduced "SPRINT - later GEO" and FESTIVA, and TOYOTA the DAIHATSU.

If it was not for YUGO none of these car would have seen the light of the day in USA.

Similar situation today millions of people in the world like India and China are TODAY buying NEW cars for as little as $3,200 and getting transportation for it.

In USA $16,000 is about the cheapest car you can buy and on a rare occasion as low as $12,000 today $10,000 car no longer exists!

About 40 million buyers in USA would buy cheap car if there was one, rather than having a used one.

But FIAT/CHRYSLER decided that they will rather sell in USA the 500 for $25,000 first.

600 which sells in some markets for as little as $6,200 could be under $10,000 car, millions would buy it but no that could actually save CHRYSLER and make money and that would not go well with UAW.

And of course they will make the 500 in Mexico anyway.

And if you find $10 YUGO bring it over I will give you $1,000!!!


Nice essay, the Yugo is still garbage, and you could write a novel, it won't change anyone's mind.
Senseless essay. But anyway you slice it, a quart of oil in 6k is well within limits, especially considering oil spray jets and low tension rings.

Mazda rotary engines spray oil into the chamber as well, and yet, he, or the other stooges, have nothing to say about it. But I digress.....

Yugos are garbage. On the top ten list of any respected commentator's list of worst cars. Even Bricklin gave up on them in favor of a Chinese car.

Worst car of the millennium according to Car Talk.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Senseless essay. But anyway you slice it, a quart of oil in 6k is well within limits, especially considering oil spray jets and low tension rings.

Senseless my foot. Personally, I found it very interesting and informative. It's a real pity what North Americans must pay for vehicles. If it were not for the recent recession, we would be paying several thousands of dollars more than we already are.

That still doesn't change the fact that engine is poorly designed.
quote:
Mazda rotary engines spray oil into the chamber as well, and yet, he, or the other stooges, have nothing to say about it. But I digress.....

Sorry, someone should have mentioned that.
quote:
Yugos are garbage. On the top ten list of any respected commentator's list of worst cars. Even Bricklin gave up on them in favor of a Chinese car.

Try telling us something different instead of parroting AD.
quote:
Worst car of the millennium according to Car Talk.

In its day, it had its place. Pity the auto makers won't give us much in the 10K range. I think there may be one or two offshore vehicles. If they did, they wouldn't be able to keep up. Sure does make you wonder...
Last edited by inhaliburton
Two things:

inHaliburton
Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts
Posted Jul 27, 10:10 AM Hide Post
This may eventually prove to be the best stuff since sliced bread, but with virtually no testing results, API ratings on their product, and documentation except that on the Synlube site, I wouldn't put this stuff in my engine, even for nothing. Remember Slick 50?

In the above post he will not put this stuff in his motor, and yet attacks anyone who questions it.

inHaliburton
Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts
Posted Jun 20, 6:22 PM Hide Post
Beats me how those who have no experience with a product can argue with those who have.

This post is self explainatory. So the question arises. Since he has no experience with a product, a BMW, why is he argueing with those who not only have experience with it, but own one?

Not really a problem then??????

In an earlier thread, he was shown to be a liar. (Find that thread you said I trashed yet? You know, the one you made up thinking no one would catch it? Too hard to check your facts first.) Now hypocrite can be added.

A hypocritical liar. A winning combination.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

In an earlier thread, he was shown to be a liar. catch it? Too hard to check your facts first.) Now hypocrite can be added.

A hypocritical liar. A winning combination.

-------------------------------------------

Trajan,you're talking only about yourself,and spot on.........the biggest liar on these boards! WE ALL KNOW IT!

You are the liar,the hypocrite,and the story teller. You were caught way back when you lied to annie_oakley!

You are the only one on these threads who got caught lying with that bogus story you fabricated saying your 'imaginary' neighbor was using Synlube,and sludged his engine!

WE ALL REMEMBER THAT FOOT IN THE MOUTH LIE YOU FIRST TOLD ANNIE!

STILL NO REBUTTAL...........NOW MANY MONTHS LATER.........LIAR!!!!!!

That was the day you lost any ounce of credibility you may have had.........now you have Zero...........like the oil my cars don't burn.........ZERO.....even at over 17k on just the oil.........and it's ZERO oil use!

My last buick had almost 180k,which I bought used with 100k,and it burned almost Zero....just to compare!


Just wondering...besides the oil burning,and the much needed engine flushes.........how much power has your car now lost due to lower compression in the engine now that it's cracked 100k...........they are known to lose quite a lot of power beyond 100k-like yours, and burn oil too,(like yours)......that is,when you use the 'approved' oil that barely meets a "minimal" spec,instead of something much,much better....and then ruin the engine with minimal 'approved oil'.....

You and I both know you have noticed a sizable loss of power from your engine and you are thinking of a rebuild to put the life back in that now........tired old,oil burning engine of yours.


Here let me help you start the process.....those Italian-(tune-ups) have worn out the engine...

http://www.bavengine.com/

Maybe you can get a new...'free'-engine/repair if you qualify.....

http://members.roadfly.com/jason/m3engines.htm
Last edited by captainkirk
Since there has been much talk about the Yugo..........here are some fun facts.......

http://www.slate.com/id/2241530/pagenum/2



It's the car that keeps on giving............

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.c...ty-interest-in-yugo/


http://wikicars.org/en/Fiat_127


quote........(Fiat 127=Yugo)

* In 1972 the Fiat 127, was the car of the year in Denmark, awarted by FDM.
* Also in 1972 it was named European Car of the year


Read more: Fiat 127 - Wikicars
Under Creative Commons License: Attribution
WOW !

Now I know why USED BMW are worth so much (relatively):

"In the event you received owner notification of this Service Action and neglect to have it performed within a reasonable period after notification, or choose not to have the Service Action performed, and the engine fails, the necessary repairs may not be covered under the terms of the warranty. The warranty does not cover damage, which results from negligence, improper operation of the vehicle, or improper maintenance."

How nice of BMW, and I bet they did not sent the letters by registered mail either !!!
Last edited by mirokefurt
Miro: Improper maint would include using a non approve oil. I doubt Synlube was approved by BMW, and if he used your non approved oil and his engine failed you'd change addresses and vanish off the face of the earth.

A qt of oil used in 6000 miles is not an oil burner, get real!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yugo is still viewed as GARBAGE, get real. Don't you see the pattern? Synlube/Yugo= ______________. I'm sure the members can fill in the blank.

AD
His disciple kirk's own links have stated using the wrong viscosity oil is bad.

This synlube, which VOAs have shown to not even be its advertised weight, is not on BMW's list. Or VW, Toyota, Nissan, Ford, Mercedes, GM, Ferarri, Chrysler, Honda, Holden, Jaguar, etc...

Even selling that liquid garbage at $32per, he couldn't afford the testing fees.

It isn't even on API's list.

I see he *still* fails to prove his allegations

I asked some bimmer guys about his comments:

"it's unreadable so I stopped after the first few sentences."

And the next comment:

"As are a lot of Internet diatribes. Seems that grammar and spelling are becoming a lost art. If the poster cannot construct a sentence and at least come close to properly spelling a word (nobody's perfect, so I make some allowances here, like seeing what keys on the keyboard are immediately next to the correct letter) then I don't put much faith in what they are writing about."

Let's see if my fans have the guts to go here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7 and tell them all that they're wrong.

Oh who am I kidding.... All three will get laughed off.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
And to show even further that they have no clue:



Speaks for itself.




You mean like this....

http://www.autohausaz.com/bmw-...mw-oil-pressure.html

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/...6-m3-engine-oil.html

http://forums.bimmerforums.com...owthread.php?t=41116


Hey Trajan...........Looks like you didn't use.........MFG APPROVED OIL...

Here is a Quote regarding the correct-'MFG APPROVED OIL'..........(What you didn't use.).....OOPS!

"I just picked up my car last week (production dated 6/2002). The owner's manual, and everywhere else oil is discussed, states that 10w-60 should be used. I can't find this(OIL) anywhere!"

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1682005


THAT'S RIGHT...NEVER SECOND GUESS THE MFG..........."THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING"........

http://www.m5board.com/vbullet...-noise-thoughts.html
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
I guess that takes Synlube out of the mix too.

AD


Very much so.

Hey, you can't sell something through the front door, try the back.

Too bad for kirk they're both locked.

The three can do one of two things.

A: Grow up and accept that I chose a proven oil.

B: Continue the purile whinning.

Either way, I chose experience. Something one person says can't be argued with. Even though he does.

As an aside, synlube wowed them here: http://www.rangerpowersports.c...thinkin!!!-Motor-oil

"I e-mailed the guy too. First I included the quote from Billy Madison, then I asked how is such a moron. His response was the same as his website. Loaded with crap about the sun and the earth being flat and had nothing to do with oil. I've come to a conclusion that he just a moron that not only has sucked people into believing his moronic scam, but he BELIEVES IT HIMSELF!!"
Last edited by trajan
Poor Trajan. Boo hoo. So sad. How childish and immature you are.

Trajan wants us to go to some beamer site.

Show them a link to here and they will see what a goof and liar you are.

We can show them threads that will show them how you treat and detest women.

A link to that car belonging to a neighbour with the sludge engine from using Synlube.

How old are you?

You had better run along now, or you'll be late for kindergarten.

Well?
Last edited by inhaliburton
quote:
inHaliburton
Level 4 - 251 to 500 posts
Posted Jun 20, 6:22 PM Hide Post
Beats me how those who have no experience with a product can argue with those who have.


Ironic how that comes in handy now. So the big question is.... Will he apply it to himself, miro, kirk? Being that none of them have experience with the M54 engine..... Knowing how he feels about that?

Nah, too much to expect of a hypocrit.

Oh, how the mechanics at both the dealer and the place I deal with laughed it up when I pointed out this thread.....

And when they read about Yugos and synlube..... brought the house down.
Last edited by trajan
Now, tell us all, Trajan, what personal experience have you had with a product that you have had no experience with, namely Synlube? Does that hold true for you, or just we non-beamers?

I suggest that if you were to use Synlube, that smoker if yours may just stop burning up oil.

And you would not have the need to use ARX to clean up that engine, too.

Seriously, think about it.
Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×