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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

Well said Lamont. You are right.

Engines today are outlasting the rest of the car. Cars today require such little maintenance. Oils today are better than ever.

I have the greatest respect for XOM's marketing. Much more professional than many of the other companies.

I'm at least glad to see Shell is using the Seq IIIG & IVA instead of the 4- ball wear test to make wear claims. LOL
Well Trajan, as I have told you and the masses at least 5 times since the turn of the year why I will not used Synlube. I cannot use Synlube until warranty is up because the OCI is 5 000 kms.

At the rate I am going, it will not be very long. I drove the truck off the lot May 4th. I now have over 15 000 kms on the odometer. Frankly, I cannot wait for the day when I will install a add-on oil filter system and be able to choose an oil that will not have to be changed for 10s of thousands of kms. I am fed up with this oil change interval of 5- to 8-thousand kms. I am in and out of the jiffy lubes every 2 or 3 weeks.
How long does a car last........?



Consumer Reports ( www.consumerreports.org/) says the average life expectancy of a new vehicle these days is around 8 years or 150,000 miles.



That would be 50 iffy-lube visits for the average motorist! NOT ME! NO THANKS!

My wife loves the fact she never has to have her car serviced for an oil change..........I agree!


We just gas-n-go! Wash-n-wax! Everything is synthetic,even the brake fluid!
Read through all the synlube threads out on the web, and you get alot of claims.

But hard data, that you can actually verify, is rare. So rare that Indiana Jones would die of old age before he found it.

The promoters seem to tell us to keep an open mind..... ok is looking for evidence an example of a closed mind?? Now maybe those that just fell off the turnip truck will automatically believe all sales pitches... that seems to be the nature of most scams.

Anecdotes are no substitute for the lengthy and grueling testing that other oils are subjected to. And no one has presented a shred of evidence that SYNLUBE can pass these tests even once, let alone forever.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Read through all the synlube threads out on the web, and you get alot of claims.

But hard data, that you can actually verify, is rare. So rare that Indiana Jones would die of old age before he found it.

The website is a travesty. Very poor example of marketing and information.

You don't claim that a police department uses the stuff, and not provide anything to back it up.

You don't claim to pass tests, and fail to provide anything to back it up.

Other than that, the threads here and at bitog speak volumes about this "oil".



"""MFG approved engine/trans/diff oil"""---Does that include -AR-X?

SYNLUBE HAS ALL THE PROOF I NEED! I DO BELIEVE THE PROOF YOU SPEAK OF, WAS PROVIDED TAJAN!

WOULD YOU LIKE AN INVITATION TRAJAN,PLUS DINNER AND A MOVIE-MAYBE.. A FEW COCKTAILS? SEVERAL FREE CASES OF THE STUFF? YOU'VE ALREADY ASKED FOR A FREE ENGINE--JUST TO TRY IT! WHAT MORE DO YOU WANT?
Up here 50 trips by the time you get outta there is at least $50. for easy math. Thats for bottom end dino probably out of the gun, so who knows what the stuff is. Do you believe the hype from the kid who is trying to upsell you. Anyway, that works out to $2500, plus 15% HST = $2875. Round if off to $3000. Sure makes Synlube look like a bargoonie at $32 per bottle.
quote:
Originally posted by Capt. Kirk:


"""MFG approved engine/trans/diff oil"""---Does that include -AR-X?


Capt., he will never answer why he is using ARX. You know the drill. Got to be a reason for sure cuz the stuff is way over priced for doing nothing. I know cuz I got sucked in with the all the hype over on BOBALOO 4 years ago. He is trying to clean up the engine from using that BMW goop they tell the non-thinkers to use. You have to use it during warranty even if it is no good, hence, his filty engine. That is the only reason to use ARX. He know darn well if he was using Synlube he would have saved a bundle and have a pristine engine just like yours!
Last edited by inhaliburton
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
Well Trajan, as I have told you and the masses at least 5 times since the turn of the year why I will not used Synlube. I cannot use Synlube until warranty is up because the OCI is 5 000 kms.

At the rate I am going, it will not be very long. I drove the truck off the lot May 4th. I now have over 15 000 kms on the odometer. Frankly, I cannot wait for the day when I will install a add-on oil filter system and be able to choose an oil that will not have to be changed for 10s of thousands of kms. I am fed up with this oil change interval of 5- to 8-thousand kms. I am in and out of the jiffy lubes every 2 or 3 weeks.


Why worry? According to many people here the oil can't void the warranty, the car maker would have to prove the oil is at fault if the engine takes a dump and dies.

Since synlube is such a fantastic oil, and Kirk pours into his new vehicles with no worry, and runs extended drains in new cars, why should you worry? Go for it if you have that much faith in the product. A Shipmate pal of mine dropped the Factory Fill in his new F250 and went with RL 5W20, a non certified oil w/o any fear. Oh yea RL is a real company with an actual street location.

AD
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
Well Trajan, as I have told you and the masses at least 5 times since the turn of the year why I will not used Synlube. I cannot use Synlube until warranty is up because the OCI is 5 000 kms.

At the rate I am going, it will not be very long. I drove the truck off the lot May 4th. I now have over 15 000 kms on the odometer. Frankly, I cannot wait for the day when I will install a add-on oil filter system and be able to choose an oil that will not have to be changed for 10s of thousands of kms. I am fed up with this oil change interval of 5- to 8-thousand kms. I am in and out of the jiffy lubes every 2 or 3 weeks.


Why worry? According to many people here the oil can't void the warranty, the car maker would have to prove the oil is at fault if the engine takes a dump and dies.

Since synlube is such a fantastic oil, and Kirk pours into his new vehicles with no worry, and runs extended drains in new cars, why should you worry? Go for it if you have that much faith in the product. A Shipmate pal of mine dropped the Factory Fill in his new F250 and went with RL 5W20, a non certified oil w/o any fear. Oh yea RL is a real company with an actual street location.

AD


That would mean that he actually has the courage of his convictions. Never seen such rabid defense of a product by one who doesn't/is too scared to use it.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
[QUOTE]
Why worry? According to many people here the oil can't void the warranty, the car maker would have to prove the oil is at fault if the engine takes a dump and dies.

Since synlube is such a fantastic oil, and Kirk pours into his new vehicles with no worry, and runs extended drains in new cars, why should you worry? Go for it if you have that much faith in the product. A Shipmate pal of mine dropped the Factory Fill in his new F250 and went with RL 5W20, a non certified oil w/o any fear. Oh yea RL is a real company with an actual street location.

AD

AD, a touch of sarcasm. Easy there... Wink

Well, bully for you friend. That's his truck and he's welcome to do what he wants, just like me. Nope, makes no sense to not change the oil for 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 thousand miles. The numbers get real big when transforming to metric. Believe me, the Ford crowd up here are not into very long OCIs. If something with wrong with the motor or driveline, they would laugh me out of the service department if I go in there looking for warranty and can't prove that the oil had been changed every 5 000 kms. Not worth the risk. I can wait. It's unlikely that I'll have a warranty issue with the engine. I've not has one in more than 20 years. Can't remember having an issue ever with the engine or tranny. Mostly recalls over the years.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:

That would mean that he actually has the courage of his convictions. Never seen such rabid defense of a product by one who doesn't/is too scared to use it.

The big bucks you've been throwing away for all those additives you've been dumping in that dirty engine of yours to clean it up after using that crumby BMW-authorized oil you been using will easily pay for loading up the truck when and if decide to switch to Synlube.

That hocky stuff you are using is not necessary if you use a quality synthetic motor oil and quality oil filter and change according to your operating manual. That's simple, basic, logical maintenance.
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
[QUOTE]
Why worry? According to many people here the oil can't void the warranty, the car maker would have to prove the oil is at fault if the engine takes a dump and dies.

Since synlube is such a fantastic oil, and Kirk pours into his new vehicles with no worry, and runs extended drains in new cars, why should you worry? Go for it if you have that much faith in the product. A Shipmate pal of mine dropped the Factory Fill in his new F250 and went with RL 5W20, a non certified oil w/o any fear. Oh yea RL is a real company with an actual street location.

AD

AD, a touch of sarcasm. Easy there... Wink

Well, bully for you friend. That's his truck and he's welcome to do what he wants, just like me. Nope, makes no sense to not change the oil for 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 thousand miles. The numbers get real big when transforming to metric. Believe me, the Ford crowd up here are not into very long OCIs. If something with wrong with the motor or driveline, they would laugh me out of the service department if I go in there looking for warranty and can't prove that the oil had been changed every 5 000 kms. Not worth the risk. I can wait. It's unlikely that I'll have a warranty issue with the engine. I've not has one in more than 20 years. Can't remember having an issue ever with the engine or tranny. Mostly recalls over the years.


Yea there was a touch of sarcasm, sorry man, it was to bring up a point. My point was there was lots of discussion about warranty claims, and the company having to prove the oil was to blame, even if you used a non approved oil and ran it 3x longer than the mfg wants.

I feel exactly the same way as you, and yes the dealer would probably laugh right in your face for sure! Even if you ran one of the non-certified oils that has an actual mail address for 1 year or 35,000 miles. FMC or anyone else would probably laugh really hard. Save those oils for after the warranty, if you plan on using them. Me I'll pass though!

AD
quote:
I feel exactly the same way as you, and yes the dealer would probably laugh right in your face for sure! Even if you ran one of the non-certified oils that has an actual mail address for 1 year or 35,000 miles. FMC or anyone else would probably laugh really hard. Save those oils for after the warranty, if you plan on using them. Me I'll pass though!

AD



How would the dealer even know the 'synthetic oil' was in the pan for up-to-35k.

In the past,a dealer/mfg "proved" the oil was in the crank way too long with the presence of severe and heavy sludge....because sludge always occurred when the oil was left in too long. I know of people who leased, didn't change the factory fill,blew up the motor now loaded up with sludge,and voided their warranty.

If the engine is running pure synthetic and has a defect,but no sludge,and a clean engine, the engine/part will be fixed under warranty.

You do not have to "Brag" to the dealer what brand of oil you are using,nor how long you left in the oil. Do change the 'factory' oil filter out very early on.

Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.

Lexus/toyota,did have an issues with sludge and spec'd way undersized-laughable tiny oil filters that may have clogged up on few occasion with even amsoil...but not synlube.

However,the bulk of the issues were with mineral oil,and cellulose oil filters.

Those tiny oil filters give no margin of protection,if there is an issue.

http://media.photobucket.com/i...4Runner/IMG_1705.jpg


The tiny oil filters pictured above work great under lab conditions-so the engineers gave the ok to use them,but Bigger is still better. A Larger media,less pressure drop/loss,more capacity-if needed,is always better. This is why I never totally trust the MFG,and their various specs,recommendations..........they are wrong about many things.....can you say recall!!!!

While on the subject of filters....I just replaced the mustang oil filter that happened to be the new fram-x2/100% synthetic media(fram says good up-to-10k) with 10,500 miles on it just to see how well it would perform with synlube. I cut open the filter and the media looked spotless inside. I even dissected the fuzzy type media,and NO dirt,no sludge,no varnish,no metal the filter-mag would have attracted if any,I believe this filter could have gone for another 10k.

The engine-looking inside the oil fill cap opening is also spotless,and uses Zero oil. I normally use a better filter than the very good fram x2 which cost me $6.95 at walmart.......they are now $8.95. I wonder how the Bosh distance plus compares since it does not have the backing screen like the fram X2. Most of these high end filters generally pull down to 5-7 microns at the 50% measure of efficiency(2 minutes on the highway or less)-when they are new,so perhaps they only get better over time.
Last edited by captainkirk
For those of you who think that ARX is cleaning up your engine by virtue of the filter media.....

QUOTED..
"ARX's lanolin esters are semi-solid and rather large particles. I have filtered the virgin product with coffee filters which caught a lot of these particles on the filter. It looked like jelly and I think that this is what you are seeing here."

THE LINK

fficial%26channel%3Ds%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1" target="_blank">http://www.google.com/imgres?i...%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1
quote:
Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.


You have to be a complete idiot at this point. Do you not understand that some Grp III's match PAO's and have better solvency? Have you seen what Shell has done with a Grp III? Take a look at their Seq III G performance. It's also the additive package. You really need to get a grip and stop spreading bad information. You're only making yourself look like an idiot. LOL
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
quote:
Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.


You have to be a complete idiot at this point. Do you not understand that some Grp III's match PAO's and have better solvency? Have you seen what Shell has done with a Grp III? Take a look at their Seq III G performance. It's also the additive package. You really need to get a grip and stop spreading bad information. You're only making yourself look like an idiot. LOL


He has posted link after link that fails to support his claim. From claiming that all those class action suits over sludge prone engines were because of the oil, (They were not.), to links of people who used the wrong oil, went way over on an oci, or just blamed anything but their own stupidity.

Has made claims that using his "oil", or other oils, will result in no sludge. And, so far, has never produced any verifiable results, any independant tests, that back that up.

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...4995/m/190100014/p/2 for a taste.
quote:
You have to be a complete idiot at this point



You really need to get a grip and stop spreading bad information. You're only making yourself look like an idiot. LOL
------------------------------------------


The only idiots in this world are the ones....like yourself.......buster........who deny..........H-I-S-T-O-R-Y !!!!!!!! Who deny the F-A-C-T-S!!!


Do you have a problem with what has already happened,historically,FACTUALLY- leading up to my posts.

Prove to me I have been wrong about.......anything I have posted thus far. I have made my case several times over by now!

Prove to me I am wrong when I state that most of the cars that have/had lube issues were running mineral oil most of the time,and group III some of the time,and typically a paper type,undersized oil filter.


Prove to me that the same percent of cars with lube issue running mineral/and or group III,were equal to the percent of cars running group IV with lube issues.......BET YOU CAN'T! HISTORY WON'T LET YOU!

Where are all those sludged up Toyotas and so forth with the Group IV stuff!

Most of us readily Admit that all lubes across the board have gotten better,including group III. However, I still choose Group IV,and the facts back me!


quote: Almost all the people who have had lubricant issues/sludge/varnish-engine failures.....almost 100% of the time had been running mineral oil/and or group III oil.


http://www.zddplus.com/TechBri...%20Base%20Stocks.pdf

The above statement,Buster...................STANDS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
My Drop to the bucket:

Just like oil will surface to the surface no matter what BP may claim about it, lies and deceptions will eventually surface too.

Yes those who lie and deceive and make it their business model will still call it something different rather than admitting they ALWAYS lied about EVERYTING, or at minimum “most everything”.

Cae in point AMSOIL, whit slogans like “First in Synthetics” but we have already discussed it.
The fact that most of AMSOIL formulations are not at all 100% “true” synthetics is becoming rather obvious as they have to increase price of their products by 3 to 6% as of August 1, 2010.

WHY ? PAO and Ester are both DOWN in cost from ALL suppliers in USA !!
But API Group III is up 6 to 10 % - Aha may be that is why, and since API Group III is 1/3 the price of pure PAO, then only if it is a substantial portion of the mix (like 50%) that would force this price increase !!!
API Group III base stock is at best even with all the additives good for about 10,000 miles of service with 16,000 being the absolute limit.
Small number of AMSOIL customers with over 90 different vehicle models spanning as much as 10 years for each model suddenly have “problems” with loosing oil pressure due to clogged oil filters and plugged oil pump screens.
This small number even if there was just ONE vehicle problem for each one listed would be in 1,200 to 1,500 range !!!
How does oil filter get “plugged” so much that oil no longer flows through it even with by-pass valve?
Oxidized LOW COST base stock, which turned to yoghurt like goo or sludge that is why!
But following in the footsteps albeit with very small shoes that were imprinted on the American Consumers by Toyota, of course it is the customers FAULT by not changing the oil filters (Claimed to last 25,000 miles) – as often as recommended by the OEM = 6,000 to 7,500 miles !!!
Or as often as 3 to 6 months – so what gives AMSOIL ?
May be rebranding SHELL products that are based on API Group III is not such a good idea after all, better go back to your roots and once again start rebranding Exxon Jet Oil, bit ooups that costs $10 to $15 per Quart nowadays so selling it for $7.00 with a discount just will not work.

May be it is time for IPO. As selling a hot air (viz-a-viz TESLA) is far more profitable in USA than actually making any product at all.
PS: The Prices of SynLube have been the same since 1996, if there was even a drop of Petroleum in it we would not be able to do that – keep the price the same !
From AMSOIL Web:

“A small number of customers with Honda, Acura, Toyota, Lexus and Pontiac vehicles with Toyota-built engines have reported that their vehicles’ oil pressure light has illuminated prior to reaching the end of the AMSOIL-recommended 25,000-mile drain interval.”

And their small number vehicle list:
following applications:
• 2001-2010 Honda
• 2002-2010 Acura
• 1992-2006 Chrysler imports
• 1993-1997 Ford Probe
• 1996-2010 Nissan/Infiniti
• 1971-2000 Mazda
• 1999-2000 Mercury Villager
• 1990-2010 Mitsubishi
• 2004-2007 Saturn
I rest my case !!!
They'll call it a small problem, replace the filter and send the customer a qt of oil. Once the oil lite comes on the damage has been done. It might not be immediate, and that's Amsoil's out, but damage has been done.

How much once again Amsoi's out and anyones's guess. A year two down the road if the car starts blowing smoke or using oil you think Amsoil will help? I don't.

I'll stick with what I can buy locally and change when the mfg suggests. Extended drain oils and filters are not my cup of tea.

Good point Trajan: The last thing Miro wants is anything floating to the surface about his oil. Somethings are best left at the bottom of the sea!

AD
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:

I'll stick with what I can buy locally and change when the mfg suggests. Extended drain oils and filters are not my cup of tea.
AD


No reasonable person should have a problem with that. Quality dino/synth oil and filter along with a reasonable oci is the way to go.

Too many links have been posted that show what happens when you don't.

I'm going to try a 10K oci with a filter change when I add oil. (Burn a qt @6k)
Trajan quoted..
quote:
I'm going to try a 10K oci with a filter change when I add oil. (Burn a qt @6k)



AAHHH...the truth comes out once again! You burn oil,and have sludge/varnish issues(You admit to using A-RX).............GOTCHA !!!!!



So, let's sum up your "STELLAR" results with this..........the so called "MFG APPROVED OIL" you're using and swear by.... is really working out well I see.......engine is burning the stuff,and the oil also sludge/varnishes up the engine. All those 'expensive' oil changes with your "Approved oil",and all the flushes,rinses,chemicals,TCW3 in the fuel(don't tell BMW/EPA),etc,etc,............SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE PROVEN MY POINT QUITE WELL-conventional wisdom/techniques don't work so well...do they!


The above issues Trajan is dealing with,is the reason why I use Synlube.

I have zero sludge,zero varnish,(zero oil burning/loss/evaporation),no chemicals or flushes ever needed,and No worries!
Last edited by captainkirk
These are all quotes from the 'other site',where everyone is still hung up on VOA,and lab results being unreliable.
-------------------------------------
"As for “simple” VOA and UOA Lab results, they are traditionally variable. Those from Oil Company Labs when testing their own products are certainly better. At a recent visit to Daimler AG in Unterturkheim, I was assured that they do their own VOAs on FF lubricants as a matter of course. Variances in supply quality do occur!

and the 0w-40 is not synthetic basestock? also, viscosity as published is an average value not an exact one. look at

Yes. Most oil companies give averages on their PDS sheets and UOA's all depend on the calibration of the test equipment and which human did them. I've had VOA's done in the past where I questioned the additive level. Resent samples three times from the same bottle and got back three different answers. All within the 10% range

The Blackstone 100C vis of 13.36 cSt is quite a bit off the M1 PDS spec' of 14.0 cSt (used to be 14.3 in the not too distant past).
That's something to keep in mind when reviewing UOAs from this lab particularly when assessing how shear prone M1 0W-40 is reported to be.


This seems to happen far too often. I know VOA/UOA are relatively inexpensive via Blackstone but having to send out a sample to verify a sketchy result does add up. It seems the adage "you get what you pay for" does apply to oil analyses. "

VOA's are not a good way to answer your question Shup1. They are good to have for reference in comparison to UOA's to see what changes occured during use. You cannot rate an oil bt its VOA


Some might be close, but when a VOA is even over a year old, it's pretty much old news. When a VOA is 4+ years old, there is almost 100% certainty it been changed by the formulator. Driven by improvement, specification chasing, cost, new and discontinued additives - lubricant formulas change.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SAVE YOUR MONEY GUYS. ......ALL THAT REALLY MATTERS IS LONG TERM PERFORMANCE,AND ACTUAL RESULTS!!! THOSE TESTS(VOA/UOA) ARE CERTAINLY GOOD AT DRAINING YOUR WALLETS-IF NOTHING ELSE! THAT'S WHY I HAVE NEVER BOTHERED!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Kirk- I hardly think Trajan has a problem. Burning a qt of oil in 6000 miles is not considered a problem. A car mfg considers oil consumption a problem when an engine uses more than 1 qt/1000 miles, anything else is considered normal.

AD


I don't burn any oil at all....ZERO! Even the German VW 1.8T uses almost Zero oil. I am going to check my records because it might be very close to Zero oil use!

I also don't do flushes with A-RX like Trajan speaks of. Don't need to!

The VW 1.8t by design should use more oil than Trajan's BMW,not way less,if any at all,unless of course the 1.8t has,you guessed it....... SYNLUBE!!!


On a side note.....


Here is a quote from Bob from a guy bragging how clean his engine is with pics using Dino oil. I could see right off the bat this engine was flushed,and guess what.........

the quote...

"Usually 4000 miles. I put on 500 miles a week so I have had intervals slip to 5000. Most of the miles I put on the car are highway miles. And I usually add a quart of kerosene to the crank case and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes before draining." (is that good for the cams?)

------------------------------------

I have noticed a distinct pattern with all the Dino/mineral users bragging about their clean engines,and how great mineral oil is,but.......they All flush their engines with chemicals/solvents.......THEN TAKE PHOTOS OF A NOW SOLVENT FLUSHED ENGINE-GIVING THE FALSE ILLUSION THE MINERAL OIL KEPT THE ENGINE CLEAN! What gives? I never flush my engines now days..........don't need to!

the link..

http://www.google.com/imgres?i...%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1
Last edited by captainkirk
We have hundreds of BMW customers about 1/2 of them swithced to SynLube at very low mileage typically before the first oil change (BECAUSE THE free SERVICE WAS JUST TOO much hastle, like coming back to pick up the car 4 hours later only to find it was not even toucvhed yet) - and with engines from 4 cylinder to 12 cylnder and they all go at least 16,000 miles before adding any oil (and most never fo between filter changes at 25,000 miles intervals). Then the other half switched AFTER the free BMW maintenance was over, or when they bought USED BMW (like Trajan did) and their oil consumption on the SAME ENGINES in SAME MY use as much as quart every 3,000 miles - which of course BMW claims is quite fine AND NORMAL !!!

So the problem really is that the FREE maintenance with the Glorified ZERO W Motor Oil causes so much wear in the 50,000 miles or 4 years that it turns ANY BMW engine in USA into Oil Burner.

And it is not one case in few hundred but 1/2 of the few hundred.

The BMW engines in Rolls Royces are the ones that get worn out the most.

So if you think the BMW Dealers use the best there is for their FREE service bit, perhaps you should do VOA on both the bottle and the stuff they pump in - I can make almost certain bet that the two are not the same, they probably use SA oil and just pocket the $75 from BMW that they get for OIL, FILTER and LABOR which probably is not enough to cover the genuine stuff.

Amazingly only MINI Dealers for most part seem to use good oil or else that NON BMW engine is more tollerant of poor quality oil.

Germans simple are not capable to make engines that do not burn oil - for PORSCHE 600 to 900 miles to a quart is OK and it is the only car in the world that has OIL LEVEL GAUGE (911) there sure is a reason why even with 14 Liters of oil it is needed !!!
quote:
Buster


Well you now have prood how "GOOD AS PAO" really is as AMSOIL mostly uses SHELL "synthetic" which they re-brand and NOW they have all these problems with thousands of cars of all makes and models clogging oil filters - that problem AMSOIL did NOT have in the past when they used PAO from Mobil.

Since neither ExxonMobil or Chevron or BP sell anything to AMSOIL, they really no longer have even a drop of PAO in any formulation - that is more involved that straight re-label.

The great "solvency" of Group III is usually gone in as little as 2,500 miles due to evaporative loss of the "solvent molecules" and oxidation of the others.

BAD PAO (Non hydrogenated, undistilled C10)has volatility of less than 6%, a good one (C12 distilled and then hydrogenated) is in 2% to 4% range and Group III is 15% and above.
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
We have hundreds of BMW customers about 1/2 of them swithced to SynLube at very low mileage typically before the first oil change (BECAUSE THE free SERVICE WAS JUST TOO much hastle, like coming back to pick up the car 4 hours later only to find it was not even toucvhed yet) - and with engines from 4 cylinder to 12 cylnder and they all go at least 16,000 miles before adding any oil (and most never fo between filter changes at 25,000 miles intervals). Then the other half switched AFTER the free BMW maintenance was over, or when they bought USED BMW (like Trajan did) and their oil consumption on the SAME ENGINES in SAME MY use as much as quart every 3,000 miles - which of course BMW claims is quite fine AND NORMAL !!!

So the problem really is that the FREE maintenance with the Glorified ZERO W Motor Oil causes so much wear in the 50,000 miles or 4 years that it turns ANY BMW engine in USA into Oil Burner.

And it is not one case in few hundred but 1/2 of the few hundred.

The BMW engines in Rolls Royces are the ones that get worn out the most.

So if you think the BMW Dealers use the best there is for their FREE service bit, perhaps you should do VOA on both the bottle and the stuff they pump in - I can make almost certain bet that the two are not the same, they probably use SA oil and just pocket the $75 from BMW that they get for OIL, FILTER and LABOR which probably is not enough to cover the genuine stuff.

Amazingly only MINI Dealers for most part seem to use good oil or else that NON BMW engine is more tollerant of poor quality oil.

Germans simple are not capable to make engines that do not burn oil - for PORSCHE 600 to 900 miles to a quart is OK and it is the only car in the world that has OIL LEVEL GAUGE (911) there sure is a reason why even with 14 Liters of oil it is needed !!!


You can, of course, prove that. Oh, wait, look who I'm asking......

So ummmm, what BMWs are factory filled with, what did you call it, 0w motor oil.

Which ones use SA oil and, as you claim, pocket the difference?

Asking you to prove anything is an excersize in futility. But unlike some posters here, one especially, I don't take the word of one like you.

Must be rough, knowing that I'll use quality, proven oil, over that garbage you peddle.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Miro Kefurt:
We have hundreds of BMW customers about 1/2 of them swithced to SynLube at very low mileage typically before the first oil change (BECAUSE THE free SERVICE WAS JUST TOO much hastle, like coming back to pick up the car 4 hours later only to find it was not even toucvhed yet) - and with engines from 4 cylinder to 12 cylnder and they all go at least 16,000 miles before adding any oil (and most never fo between filter changes at 25,000 miles intervals). Then the other half switched AFTER the free BMW maintenance was over, or when they bought USED BMW (like Trajan did) and their oil consumption on the SAME ENGINES in SAME MY use as much as quart every 3,000 miles - which of course BMW claims is quite fine AND NORMAL !!!

So the problem really is that the FREE maintenance with the Glorified ZERO W Motor Oil causes so much wear in the 50,000 miles or 4 years that it turns ANY BMW engine in USA into Oil Burner.

And it is not one case in few hundred but 1/2 of the few hundred.

The BMW engines in Rolls Royces are the ones that get worn out the most.

So if you think the BMW Dealers use the best there is for their FREE service bit, perhaps you should do VOA on both the bottle and the stuff they pump in - I can make almost certain bet that the two are not the same, they probably use SA oil and just pocket the $75 from BMW that they get for OIL, FILTER and LABOR which probably is not enough to cover the genuine stuff.

Amazingly only MINI Dealers for most part seem to use good oil or else that NON BMW engine is more tollerant of poor quality oil.

Germans simple are not capable to make engines that do not burn oil - for PORSCHE 600 to 900 miles to a quart is OK and it is the only car in the world that has OIL LEVEL GAUGE (911) there sure is a reason why even with 14 Liters of oil it is needed !!!


You can, of course, prove that. Oh, wait, look who I'm asking......

So ummmm, what BMWs are factory filled with, what did you call it, 0w motor oil.

Which ones use SA oil and, as you claim, pocket the difference?

Asking you to prove anything is an excersize in futility. But unlike some posters here, one especially, I don't take the word of one like you.

Must be rough, knowing that I'll use quality, proven oil, over that garbage you peddle.



Proof............NO PROBLAMO!

http://www.google.com/search?h...BMW+BURN+OIL&spell=1



Hows that 'Quality proven oil' working out?...oh that's right......your engine sludges and you burn oil. SEE ABOVE LINK!

Oh,Oh.............BIMMER SLUDGE......Now I see why Trajan uses A-RX

http://www.google.com/images?h...ource=og&sa=N&tab=wi


So much for more frequent oil changes........right from Bimmer forums too!

quote-
There is no link between more frequent oil changes and avoiding the unfortunate sludging shown above. I think if you look at the history of these cars, either the wrong oil was used and/or the head gasket is blown allowing coolant into the oil. One post even mentioned the sudden onset of problems after the car overheated.



I used to be in the Car business. The real Germans who are really into engineering,were not very impressed with BMW,ONLY BENZ! But that was a few years ago I have to say!
quote:
Originally posted by ADFD1:
Kirk- I hardly think Trajan has a problem. Burning a qt of oil in 6000 miles is not considered a problem. A car mfg considers oil consumption a problem when an engine uses more than 1 qt/1000 miles, anything else is considered normal.

AD


You're right. It isn't a problem. It's far from a problem. The dealer doesn't see it as a problem. My mechanic doesn't. People who own and drive these cars, unlike kirk, don't see it as a problem.

No synlube, no worries.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ADFD1:
Kirk- I hardly think Trajan has a problem. Burning a qt of oil in 6000 miles is not considered a problem. A car mfg considers oil consumption a problem when an engine uses more than 1 qt/1000 miles, anything else is considered normal.

AD


You're right. It isn't a problem. It's far from a problem. The dealer doesn't see it as a problem. My mechanic doesn't. People who own and drive these cars, unlike kirk, don't see it as a problem.

-------------------------------------------

Well...then your all blind...or ignoring the obvious! Your engines are not in stellar condition.

If I were the dealer, I would also tell you the car is fine,and then say........"have a nice day and be sure to come back when the warranty runs out--and your ready for an engine overhaul"............OUT OF WARRANTY OF COURSE! LOL
Just a simple question:

Why is $46,000 car worth only $14,000 when it runs out of the 4 year 50,000 miles Warranty ?

That is the $32,000 question !!!

May be there is reason for it = it is BMW....

The Ultimate sucker machine, and the fact that it sucks oil too; is just part of the "Unique owner Experience".


Infact BMW depreciation rate is just about the same as that of a HYUNDAI, i.e. in used car business it is valued the same, that alone should be a clue.

(Except for MINI which while sold by BMW dealers from spearate showroom is not real BMW - fortunately, and thus it has the hihgest reseale value in the car industry)
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