...for Ford Explorer 2006 XLS 4.0 V6
Original Post
Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity
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Schaeffer Supreme 9000 and a standard mid-range price filter from local parts store. The Supreme 7000 synthetic blend will perform very well in New Jersey in the winter and is a bit less.
quote:for Ford Explorer 2006 XLS 4.0 V6
I am facing a problem with my 97 Ford explorer...Low gear seems to be out in it. All other gears are working. Any advice on what the problem may be??
You explorer guys need to go over to
http://www.explorerforum.com/
for all the answers to your exploder problems. To answer the lube question, I have been running Amsoil in everything on my 02 for 262k miles now, still on the original tranny and engine. I have replaced the valve block (at 60k and a known problem) and just replaced the OD servo this past weekend. But I would say it would be hard to go wrong with Amsoil. The best part, UPS will deliver it to your door.
D
http://www.explorerforum.com/
for all the answers to your exploder problems. To answer the lube question, I have been running Amsoil in everything on my 02 for 262k miles now, still on the original tranny and engine. I have replaced the valve block (at 60k and a known problem) and just replaced the OD servo this past weekend. But I would say it would be hard to go wrong with Amsoil. The best part, UPS will deliver it to your door.
D
Thanks Daveleeander for your link but sorry it's not sufficient to give All the Answer, as you said above it's good not best .
Anyways thanks for the information
Anyways thanks for the information
Just a suggestion, but especially if you want a viscosity recommendation, it would be helpful if you can include your location or, alternately, your typical summer + winter temperature plus expected maximum and minimum temperature.
Also, it's helpful if you can describe the service level ... standard or severe service, etc.
Severe service (broadly speaking) is any of:
Dusty environment
Average trip duration under 20 mins or frequent trips of 5 miles/8 km or less
Excessive idling (more than 2 mins routinely or more than 5 mins occasionally)
Towing, hauling
You will get somewhat different definitions of severe service but if you're typically on one side or the other of the above (never/rarely vs occasionally/frequently) that's good enough to help with an oil recommendation.
Also, it's helpful if you can describe the service level ... standard or severe service, etc.
Severe service (broadly speaking) is any of:
Dusty environment
Average trip duration under 20 mins or frequent trips of 5 miles/8 km or less
Excessive idling (more than 2 mins routinely or more than 5 mins occasionally)
Towing, hauling
You will get somewhat different definitions of severe service but if you're typically on one side or the other of the above (never/rarely vs occasionally/frequently) that's good enough to help with an oil recommendation.
I am running Mobil 1 0W-30 in both my car and truck. Like so many things, there are more opinions than facts to base them on. Mobil is an American company and the oil is easy to find. Quality as compared to anything else? Anybody really have any good data? With a year interval Blackstone shows sort of high wear metals. Truck get less than 5K a year while the car closer to 20K. I had a NAPA Gold filter. Now running a Pronto.
I have a '99 Land Rover Discovery-1 with 160K miles. I've been religious with maintenance during its life. Couple months ago, I did a head gasket and water pump replacement, and found very clean (for 160K) heads; just a minimal "film" I could clean with a light parts wash. The valve seals were pretty worn out, which I replaced. I've been using Mobil-1 High Mileage (10-30) since it came out. I'm no expert, but the high zinc additive package makes sense to me. I use Baldwin filters, Schaeffer red grease in U-joints and wheel bearings, Schaeffer gear oil in the diffs and tranny. My D-1 runs excellent, FWIW.
Why 10W-30? Is that the factory recommendation?
I prefer the 10 over the 5, but I believe the 5 is recommended. OE's will typically spec a lower base number to achieve fuel savings. I prefer protection over mpg. On older engines with (reasonably) tired seals, it's fine to bump up the base number a notch.
Once up to normally operating temperature the difference between 5W-30 and 10W-30 is?
Psychological. 
quote:Originally posted by JMorgan:
Schaeffer Supreme 9000 and a standard mid-range price filter from local parts store. The Supreme 7000 synthetic blend will perform very well in New Jersey in the winter and is a bit less.
Why would you specify a great oil like Schaeffer's and then basically say any filter would do? The oil and the filter are a system so on a $30K plus vehicle why wouldn't you recommend a good oil and the best filter you can get your hands on? A few more bucks every oil change for top rated filter is worth the cost IMHO.
The dispersant packages and the friction modifiers reduce the amount of contamination being filtered.
Filters are manufactured by a couple of companies regardless of the name on the filter. A mid-range priced filter is sufficient to provide good filtration.
Schaeffer does not have an agenda or financial arrangement for filters. Unlike some competitors, Schaeffer warranty doesn't require a specific filter.
My recommendation is stay mid-priced. Schaeffer's prices are below the high end oils, above the low end oils. I recommended applying the same philosophy to the filter.
Filters are manufactured by a couple of companies regardless of the name on the filter. A mid-range priced filter is sufficient to provide good filtration.
Schaeffer does not have an agenda or financial arrangement for filters. Unlike some competitors, Schaeffer warranty doesn't require a specific filter.
My recommendation is stay mid-priced. Schaeffer's prices are below the high end oils, above the low end oils. I recommended applying the same philosophy to the filter.
...and (at least as important, if not more) keep the air filter changed as well.
quote:Originally posted by Jeffzx9:
I prefer the 10 over the 5, but I believe the 5 is recommended. OE's will typically spec a lower base number to achieve fuel savings. I prefer protection over mpg. On older engines with (reasonably) tired seals, it's fine to bump up the base number a notch.
I want flow at start up.
