Seafoam in Motorcycle crankcase...

I think Sea Foam in the gas is likely OK. It is just 10-20% IPA and pale oil according to the MSDS.

No vehicle manufacturer or oil manufacturer recommends additives in the engine oil. So I wouldn't put it in there.

Check out the new AMSOIL Quick Shot gas additive for powersport equipment such as motorcycles. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aqs.aspx?zo=1181889 . Power Point presentation at https://admin.acrobat.com/_a72...t=true&pbMode=normal . Q&A at https://www.amsoil.com/dealer/...e_AQS.pdf?zo=1181889 .

Hmmm. Another Amsoil sales promotion?

I would not recommend Seafoam in the crankcase on the Virago. It may thin the oil too much and change the friction characteristics of the clutch. Run a good mineral based oil, such as Rotella. I ran Rotella T in my Honda M/C's. Check out some of the Yamaha boards. That being an older bike, I would not go with a Synthetic as it may be too slippery for the wet clutch.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by .:[EM]:.:
Hmmm. Another Amsoil sales promotion?

YUP! +1

Back to the OP, I wouldn't add Seafoam to the oil in your Yamaha. Stick to the spec'd oil, and change it more often.

AD

Thanks Tim, and the others, for your input.

On your recommendations, I won`t be adding to the crankcase. The Yamaha dealer installed their Yamaha brand of 10W30 synthetic oil and it seems to not to be slipping when I boot it up the highway. This bike has way too much power for my needs!

Seafoam has been around for decades and seem to have a good following and reputation. As mentioned, I have added to the last 2 tanks of gasoline. I am using Shell gas as they claim to have additives that clean the fuel system. The only thing I have noticed since using Seafoam is that the bike backfires more now when engine braking than it did before. I`m compensating by adding choke, which helps, while driving through town so as not be be too obnoxious, as the bike has non-standard pipes and is VERY loud.

It was recommended that a dino oil be used as synthetic may be too slippery for the wet clutch. What are your collective thoughts on using Amsoil`s Motorcycle Oil. Also, what weight would you recommend using in the summer.

I appreciated your advice.

10w30 might be lower viscosity than was factory recommended for a 1985 Yamaha Virago. I would think 20w40 might have been recommended.

If you are concerned with wet clutch slippage, look for a motorcycle specific oil with a JASO MA2 rating. It would have the most friction for wet clutch application. A dino oil or synthetic that meets JASO MA2 would have very similar wet clutch friction, and would make no difference.

I think the AMSOIL 10w40 MCF motorcycle oil would be an excellent choice as it is JASO MA2 rated, and is a chemical synthetic which will help clean the engine and keep it that way. I provide this oil to many Yamaha shops and they are very satisfied with it.

You can learn more about motorcycle oils and how brands and dino/synthetic compare with each other at http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf?zo=1181889 .

Dont worry about synthetic oil in a wet clutch. I use Red Line 10-40 high performance motorcycle synthetic in my TRX 450R racing quad. No problems at All since 2007. I beat this thing mercilessly and have had no clutch issues. Some clutch problems are caused by the rider slipping it to much when pulling away from a stop. If the clutch and crank case share a common sump , change it OFTEN regardless of what brand you use.

quote:

BKL98MK8LSC

Thanks for your input, BKL98MK8LSC.

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I would not recommend Seafoam in the crankcase on the Virago. It may thin the oil too much and change the friction characteristics of the clutch. Run a good mineral based oil, such as Rotella. I ran Rotella T in my Honda M/C's. Check out some of the Yamaha boards. That being an older bike, I would not go with a Synthetic as it may be too slippery for the wet clutch.

Dave

Synthetics,including true 100% synthetics that are designed for wet clutches will have the necessary friction modifiers and perform far superior to any mineral based oil. Clutch chatter/wear and other issues will be kept to a minimum with synthetics.

No mineral based oil will ever outperform any high quality synthetic lube that meets or exceeds the given spec by the manufacturer of the unit the lube is being installed. Check out the link below.

http://www.motor-oil-engineers...theticlubricants.htm

For example....I just drained out the OEM lube in my transfer case NV-245(mopar lube/mobilube),and installed amsoil 5w-30 synthetic hydraulic tractor lube(specified).

The OEM stuff was mineral based,and now I have 100% synthetic that exceeds the OEM stuff by far!

quote:

When should I switch to synthetic
oil?

CONGRATS ON YOUR NEW TRUCK!!

Towing should be avoided if possible until the engine and drive train break in.

You could switch to synthetic now since many engines have synthetic installed at the factory....but....

However,I would say let it run for about 1000 kms and dump the factory fill and add synthetic oil then. The factory fill will serve as break in oil,you'll be fine. Just don't beat the truck.

Amsoil has a nice article on why you should change out gear oil at around 8000 kms.

http://www.amsoil.com/news/differential_gl_4_06.aspx

Happy motoring!

Kirk

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:

quote:

When should I switch to synthetic
oil?

CONGRATS ON YOUR NEW TRUCK!!

Towing should be avoided if possible until the engine and drive train break in.

You could switch to synthetic now since many engines have synthetic installed at the factory....but....

However,I would say let it run for about 1000 kms and dump the factory fill and add synthetic oil then. The factory fill will serve as break in oil,you'll be fine. Just don't beat the truck.

Amsoil has a nice article on why you should change out gear oil at around 8000 kms.

http://www.amsoil.com/news/differential_gl_4_06.aspx

Happy motoring!

Kirk

What? No mention of using synlube. Surprising for two such advocates of that swill. After all those pages of nonsense about how "good" it is.

When you answer the many questions put to you that you have ignored, I'll answer yours.

Well?

If your towing get a big transmission oil cooler as soon as possible. Heat is killer on an automatic. No oil synthetic or otherwise will save the transmission from heat.