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Gold Member - 25 or more posts
Posted
Does anyone here think there is a real big difference, or could I use the same oil for both applications, given the weight were the same as required? Some say it is OK to use non-motorcycle specific oil in a wet-clutch motorcycle as long as it is not rated as "energy conserving".
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Amsoil sold @ COST for board members- Contact jshanerobinson@verizon.net. | Registered: Sat February 07 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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This is probably reverse of what you had in mind, but I use motorcycle oil in my SUV. I like the beefier additive package that this motorcycle oil has, hence why I spend the money for it.

The product is Maxima Maxum 4 Ultra 0w30.
 
Posts: 144 | Location: Glenshaw, PA, USA | Registered: Mon March 01 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Dad2leia:
This is probably reverse of what you had in mind, but I use motorcycle oil in my SUV. I like the beefier additive package that this motorcycle oil has, hence why I spend the money for it.

The product is Maxima Maxum 4 Ultra 0w30.


That's actually another thing I was thinking of, using Motorcycle oil in my vehicles, specifically Maxima.

I still want to hear opinions of using car oil in motorcycles, and if there is even a difference at all.
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Amsoil sold @ COST for board members- Contact jshanerobinson@verizon.net. | Registered: Sat February 07 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'll keep you posted on my observations with it in my crankcase. So far, I've got about 2100 miles on that oil, and was trying to get to a 7500 mile OCI, but I'll have to muster a lot of willpower for that one, but I will have no problem leaving it in for 5000 miles, as my wife would have something to say about $75 OC's every 3000 miles!!! Big Grin
 
Posts: 144 | Location: Glenshaw, PA, USA | Registered: Mon March 01 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have seen this or similar threads on other forums before and it always ends up left hanging.

My thoughts are;

I'm not sure why you would want to run car oil in your bike, is it to save a couple of bucks?

I love my bike and only give it a premium bike oil, I'm not interested in saving a couple of bucks at the risk of my bike.

Now days with the high revving four strokes that are available, a specific bike oil is the only way to go.

Obviously a bike oil is designed for a wet clutch, car oil is not. Although I know some car oils do go OK with the wet clutch.

Just my thoughts.......

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T in my bike. Heres the new oil specs for your info. This is an Australian spec oil.

Calcium 2489
Magnesium 610
Phosphorous 1204
Zinc 1177
Aluminium 1
Iron 2
Chromium <1
Copper <1
Lead <1
Tin <1
Silicon 5
Sodium 2
Boron 234
Molybdenum <1
Nickel <1
Silver <1
Barium <1
Manganese <1
Titanium <1
Vanadium <1
 
Posts: 58 | Location: Australia | Registered: Thu January 08 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Not necessarily just for saving $, but motorcycle specific oils can be hard to find other than a dealer depending on where you live.

I'm not convinced that motorcycles are harder on oil than cars.
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Amsoil sold @ COST for board members- Contact jshanerobinson@verizon.net. | Registered: Sat February 07 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Auto oils that say "Energy Conserving" are not recommended for M/Cs' because they contain "friction modifiers" (additives) which can affect the operation and longevity of the "wet clutch". That info comes right out of my Honda Service Manual. NOTE-If the oil does not say "energy conserving" than it would appear it acceptable for use in M/C, ATV's etc with wet clutch's but why take the chance when there are many M/C oils on the Market. Amsoil, Belray, Castrol, Golden Spectro, Maxima, Mobil 1, Motul, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, Torco, Valvoline and much more I am sure all have specific M/C oils on the market.

You should look for a M/C oil with these spec's., API SG, SL/CF; JASO MA; API GL-1

Many continue to use them though and will argue to the death it makes no difference. But, it could be a reason to deny warranty coverage.

Those that cannot find them are not looking very hard and often using price as thier reasoning. Using the internet you can have a case of Oil delivered to anyplace in the USA or Canada within days.


Synthetic Oil user since 1975
 
Posts: 54 | Location: Michigan USA | Registered: Wed April 28 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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My manual says "SG, non-energy conserving." It says nothing about being "motorcycle specific."
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Amsoil sold @ COST for board members- Contact jshanerobinson@verizon.net. | Registered: Sat February 07 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Premium Member - 250 or more posts
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quote:
Originally posted by Dad2leia:
This is probably reverse of what you had in mind, but I use motorcycle oil in my SUV. I like the beefier additive package that this motorcycle oil has, hence why I spend the money for it.
Hey, great idea. Motorcycle oil has higher levels of zddp, right? What is it rated, SL, SH, SG? I have three vehicles and by the manuals they are supposed to take SH and SG oil. I thing there is not enough zddp in this new SM stuff and the SL I have stocked is probably borderline. Motorcycle oil may be the perfect, albeit expensive, escape from the out of control spiral to lower and lower zddp.

BTW, if I had a motorcycle I would seriously consider Redline Oil or some other ester synthetic.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TallPaul,
 
Posts: 350 | Location: Detroit, Michigan | Registered: Thu January 08 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I feel a car oil can be used for the bike as long as it meets API S cate spec.


quote:
Originally posted by prtdvl:
Does anyone here think there is a real big difference, or could I use the same oil for both applications, given the weight were the same as required? Some say it is OK to use non-motorcycle specific oil in a wet-clutch motorcycle as long as it is not rated as "energy conserving".


Ramesh
 
Posts: 3 | Registered: Fri November 11 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
4. Energy Conserving: The “Energy Conserving” designation applies to oils intended for gasoline-engine cars, vans, and light trucks. Widespread use of “Energy Conserving” oils may result in an overall savings of fuel in the vehicle fleet as a whole.



quote:
Though 4-cycle motorcycle engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.

As with the 2-stroke classification, the JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.


quote:
FRICTION MODIFIER
Definition: Additives that reduce the friction of moving engine parts or oil flow in the engine.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: MikeR,


Synthetic Oil user since 1975
 
Posts: 54 | Location: Michigan USA | Registered: Wed April 28 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have used Mobil-I 15W-50 and Delo 400 with good results on my bike, I was wary of the fact that motorcycles also mean high load and rpm gears to be lubed but these two oils fared pretty well.
 
Posts: 119 | Registered: Sat April 10 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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We have also run Mobil 1 5W-50 in bikes with no clutch slippage or adverse effects.

MikeR hit the nail on the head, sums it up nicely. Thanks MikeR.
 
Posts: 58 | Location: Australia | Registered: Thu January 08 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Most bike oils are far too viscous for the majority of modern auto engines made today and the 30wts are few and far between .

Citgo Ultra Life 10w-30 mineral oil has :

1300 phos
1400 zinc
250 boron
100 moly
2300 calcium .

A modern additive pack using better base oils with SG levels of phos and zinc . It is good stuff .



 
Posts: 124 | Registered: Tue July 05 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I bought a case of SL Ultralife 10w30 on clearance for 80 cents a quart (about half price). I noticed there was no starburst on the bottles, but some other cases of the same oil (I believe also SL) did have the starburst. So I am wondering if the latest version (did they go SM?) has all the goodies like you show above.
 
Posts: 350 | Location: Detroit, Michigan | Registered: Thu January 08 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I had read a year ago where they were getting the oil API certified but the data sheet still say's "


10w-30 10w-40
API Service Category Yes Yes
API Certification Mark No No
Energy Conserving Yes No

The 10w-30 will go 10k-12k miles or more in engines of good design and the right conditions . I've run it over 8k in a 3.0 Ford and it was not even near done . There was more in it because it was coming back into starting grade with good tbn still yet .

Short of turbo engine use , I'm not sure what it would take in terms of miles to get a good SL-SM mineral 30wt to oxidize and thicken out of grade and I don't have courage enough to see if 20k is the magic number Smile



 
Posts: 124 | Registered: Tue July 05 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Sorry MB, It was not the starburst, but the donut (I just looked at a bottle). My Ultralife 10w30 does not have the donut nor the "Energy Conserving" other cases did. I should have bought all they had for the price.

8000 miles, eh. Well that would be good for my Aerostar 3.0 which likes the thicker 12 cSt of the UL 10w30. But I have the clearance Redline 5w30 in her now and boy does it run sweet esp on these cold days (mid 20s here now).
 
Posts: 350 | Location: Detroit, Michigan | Registered: Thu January 08 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Sorry, didn't have time to read all the replies, so this may have been said already.....

I would not run anything in an integrated engine/transmission that is not Morotcycle Specific API SG/JASO MA. The SG guarantees that there is lots of zinc, etc., and the MX guarantees that it is ok for your wet clutch.

Car oils just aren't beefed up with the extra high pressure additives, intended for use in a transmission. Not sure why everybody insists on using them in their bikes??? Guess it's because you can get them cheap at Wally World.

Nice informative article, from MA Action:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

This message has been edited. Last edited by: reconranger,


Quad Rider
 
Posts: 15 | Location: So. Calif. | Registered: Wed December 21 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I would not use a car oil in the bike or the bike oil in a car unless I was stranded and had no choice. They both have different requirements. Especially air cooled motorcycles. Go to: www.lubedealer.com/tntsynthetics and click on the "other links" button and read the info on motorcycles and Auto/truck/SUV to further your knowledge
 
Posts: 9 | Registered: Thu January 05 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Buddy (THEHEG)!
Think about this forum more like place for exchanging experiences and upgrading knowledge. Not as simple advertising panel! If you discovered these pages lately (registered Jan 2006) I can assure you that you are not only one Amsoil dealer present. Advertising like you do will produce just opposite effect among our honorable members.
 
Posts: 98 | Location: Windsor, Canada | Registered: Sat June 18 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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