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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

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quote:
Originally posted by Dad2leia:
This is probably reverse of what you had in mind, but I use motorcycle oil in my SUV. I like the beefier additive package that this motorcycle oil has, hence why I spend the money for it.

The product is Maxima Maxum 4 Ultra 0w30.


That's actually another thing I was thinking of, using Motorcycle oil in my vehicles, specifically Maxima.

I still want to hear opinions of using car oil in motorcycles, and if there is even a difference at all.
I'll keep you posted on my observations with it in my crankcase. So far, I've got about 2100 miles on that oil, and was trying to get to a 7500 mile OCI, but I'll have to muster a lot of willpower for that one, but I will have no problem leaving it in for 5000 miles, as my wife would have something to say about $75 OC's every 3000 miles!!! Big Grin
I have seen this or similar threads on other forums before and it always ends up left hanging.

My thoughts are;

I'm not sure why you would want to run car oil in your bike, is it to save a couple of bucks?

I love my bike and only give it a premium bike oil, I'm not interested in saving a couple of bucks at the risk of my bike.

Now days with the high revving four strokes that are available, a specific bike oil is the only way to go.

Obviously a bike oil is designed for a wet clutch, car oil is not. Although I know some car oils do go OK with the wet clutch.

Just my thoughts.......

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T in my bike. Heres the new oil specs for your info. This is an Australian spec oil.

Calcium 2489
Magnesium 610
Phosphorous 1204
Zinc 1177
Aluminium 1
Iron 2
Chromium <1
Copper <1
Lead <1
Tin <1
Silicon 5
Sodium 2
Boron 234
Molybdenum <1
Nickel <1
Silver <1
Barium <1
Manganese <1
Titanium <1
Vanadium <1
Auto oils that say "Energy Conserving" are not recommended for M/Cs' because they contain "friction modifiers" (additives) which can affect the operation and longevity of the "wet clutch". That info comes right out of my Honda Service Manual. NOTE-If the oil does not say "energy conserving" than it would appear it acceptable for use in M/C, ATV's etc with wet clutch's but why take the chance when there are many M/C oils on the Market. Amsoil, Belray, Castrol, Golden Spectro, Maxima, Mobil 1, Motul, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, Torco, Valvoline and much more I am sure all have specific M/C oils on the market.

You should look for a M/C oil with these spec's., API SG, SL/CF; JASO MA; API GL-1

Many continue to use them though and will argue to the death it makes no difference. But, it could be a reason to deny warranty coverage.

Those that cannot find them are not looking very hard and often using price as thier reasoning. Using the internet you can have a case of Oil delivered to anyplace in the USA or Canada within days.
quote:
Originally posted by Dad2leia:
This is probably reverse of what you had in mind, but I use motorcycle oil in my SUV. I like the beefier additive package that this motorcycle oil has, hence why I spend the money for it.
Hey, great idea. Motorcycle oil has higher levels of zddp, right? What is it rated, SL, SH, SG? I have three vehicles and by the manuals they are supposed to take SH and SG oil. I thing there is not enough zddp in this new SM stuff and the SL I have stocked is probably borderline. Motorcycle oil may be the perfect, albeit expensive, escape from the out of control spiral to lower and lower zddp.

BTW, if I had a motorcycle I would seriously consider Redline Oil or some other ester synthetic.
Last edited by tallpaul
I feel a car oil can be used for the bike as long as it meets API S cate spec.


quote:
Originally posted by prtdvl:
Does anyone here think there is a real big difference, or could I use the same oil for both applications, given the weight were the same as required? Some say it is OK to use non-motorcycle specific oil in a wet-clutch motorcycle as long as it is not rated as "energy conserving".
quote:
4. Energy Conserving: The “Energy Conserving” designation applies to oils intended for gasoline-engine cars, vans, and light trucks. Widespread use of “Energy Conserving” oils may result in an overall savings of fuel in the vehicle fleet as a whole.



quote:
Though 4-cycle motorcycle engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.

As with the 2-stroke classification, the JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.


quote:
FRICTION MODIFIER
Definition: Additives that reduce the friction of moving engine parts or oil flow in the engine.
Last edited by miker
I had read a year ago where they were getting the oil API certified but the data sheet still say's "


10w-30 10w-40
API Service Category Yes Yes
API Certification Mark No No
Energy Conserving Yes No

The 10w-30 will go 10k-12k miles or more in engines of good design and the right conditions . I've run it over 8k in a 3.0 Ford and it was not even near done . There was more in it because it was coming back into starting grade with good tbn still yet .

Short of turbo engine use , I'm not sure what it would take in terms of miles to get a good SL-SM mineral 30wt to oxidize and thicken out of grade and I don't have courage enough to see if 20k is the magic number Smile
Sorry MB, It was not the starburst, but the donut (I just looked at a bottle). My Ultralife 10w30 does not have the donut nor the "Energy Conserving" other cases did. I should have bought all they had for the price.

8000 miles, eh. Well that would be good for my Aerostar 3.0 which likes the thicker 12 cSt of the UL 10w30. But I have the clearance Redline 5w30 in her now and boy does it run sweet esp on these cold days (mid 20s here now).
Sorry, didn't have time to read all the replies, so this may have been said already.....

I would not run anything in an integrated engine/transmission that is not Morotcycle Specific API SG/JASO MA. The SG guarantees that there is lots of zinc, etc., and the MX guarantees that it is ok for your wet clutch.

Car oils just aren't beefed up with the extra high pressure additives, intended for use in a transmission. Not sure why everybody insists on using them in their bikes??? Guess it's because you can get them cheap at Wally World.

Nice informative article, from MA Action:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
Last edited by reconranger
Buddy (THEHEG)!
Think about this forum more like place for exchanging experiences and upgrading knowledge. Not as simple advertising panel! If you discovered these pages lately (registered Jan 2006) I can assure you that you are not only one Amsoil dealer present. Advertising like you do will produce just opposite effect among our honorable members.
The wet clutch isnt the only concern with using car oil with the energy conserving addative package. The sprag cluth fo the starter can be prone to failure with the use of this oil. As for finding a right oil for you bike the JASO MA standard is one that seems to be industry wide accepted. I do know that my bikes seem to shift nicer on motorcycle classification oil than "car oil" Im my high heat airand oil cooled racing ducati I use Motul full ester synthetic.
Nothing is possible to change regarding Google search results. Thousands of Amsoil dealers have web sites and they use different techniques to be listed, to be distinguished from others, to be chosen by the prospect.

If you really think that Amsoil is too expensive for most of people – think twice. You are saving money actually with most of Amsoil products! I have to admit that upfront expense really is higher but it shouldn’t be so difficult to make some basic calculations about cost effectiveness. And, it is not solely about saving money. It is more about better protection and better performances.
I have a Honda CBR 600F3 with about 25000 miles. After reading as many posts on this topic as I could and being screwed on motorcycle oil the past 10years. I decided to add car oil to my bike it's been about 600miles since I put car motor oil into my motorcycle. 10w-40 havoline. My bike rides fantastic i see no problems. From now on I'm using no "EC" car motor oil in my bike. Forget all these people on here who are trying to sell oil. I got my oil filters on ebay and motor oil on sale. I'm happy w/ my purchase.
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