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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

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Hi Jeff,

we use the puroilater on our Subaru Forester GT, the 5 µm is real and works,
we combine with a washable foam filter on the air induction and reduced the contamination levels in the negine oil from an ISO 21/19 back to an ISO 16/13-17/14 which is very acceptable for a rice burner with a hair dryer on it, (Turbo Charged 4 valves per cyl twin overhead cam very sensitive to dirt motor.
Ou lab has completed extensive WDA reports and images on these results and tried several filters before settling on the puroilater so we think good filter and works well

Rob S
I would like to throw my 2 cents in about filters.I dont know how you would check a filters microns but you will be surprised at what you will find if you cut the filter open.Besides finding if your engine is shucking parts you will see how the filter is made.I have cut open hundreds of name brand & found holes,pleats bunched up, not sealed at both ends, paper seals at both ends etc.Have seen off brands that were very good.Company got sued because of the problems of used & new filters that was nothing but a can.They had to eat a warehouse full of nice looking junk. Filters that have metal to metal seals are not the best in some cases-- (example)Cummings had some engines that had a short life with name brand filters- what was happening was the vibration from the engine was causeing the medal seal to come off the seat & let unfiltered oil by pass the filter. soooo checkem out.
Jerry: Arn't Cummins filters Fleetguard? I was wondering if the filters you referred to failing were these. We're always told by our supervisor to use this type of filter. Could you document when these engine failures took place, ect. Thanks for the information. This is a very good site for information.

quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Ramey:
I would like to throw my 2 cents in about filters.I dont know how you would check a filters microns but you will be surprised at what you will find if you cut the filter open.Besides finding if your engine is shucking parts you will see how the filter is made.I have cut open hundreds of name brand & found holes,pleats bunched up, not sealed at both ends, paper seals at both ends etc.Have seen off brands that were very good.Company got sued because of the problems of used & new filters that was nothing but a can.They had to eat a warehouse full of nice looking junk. Filters that have metal to metal seals are not the best in some cases-- (example)Cummings had some engines that had a short life with name brand filters- what was happening was the vibration from the engine was causeing the medal seal to come off the seat & let unfiltered oil by pass the filter. soooo checkem out.
Oil filters for cars and trucks have around a 10 micron to 40 micron "nominal" rating at best. The only way to find out the beta rating for each filter is to call the company. They are usually willing to provide that information to you. The best rating I have gotten for a filter so far is for the Fram Triple Guard. Your best bet is to install an aftermarket offline filter on your car. These are readily available for a price ranging from $100 up to $500. Believe me, it is worth the investment. Smile
There are excellent independant studies of filter Flow and pore size avalible, so merely depending on manufacturer's information seems silly. Also, the SAE tests are what you want to look for in manufacturer's information. It is worth noting that A $1.97 Walmart Supertech has a better SAE J806 resault than the $4 Fram sitting right next to it!


It really pays to disassemble a few of the particular filter that you're interested in, or at least look for pictures of the same size filter. As pointed out over and over at "bobistheoilguy", most filter manufacturers vary through their lines as to how much media they use, what type of bypass, etc.

In general, Fram's are radically over priced for what they are, and the tough/doublegaurd models are not up to extended drains. The may, or may not suffer from poor ADBV's and low area depending on the model.


I don't know of anything particuularly good or bad about the Amsoil filter, I assume that they are very good, but pretty expensive. I know that it is a Baldwin/Hastings filter, the media is similar to the Baldwin HPG line, and the only ones that I've seen have nitrile rubber ADBV's, which is not exactly a plus.

Of the commonly avalible, over the counter filters, the WIX (Napa Gold), PureOne, AC Delco, and Motorcraft filters are all good choices. For short drains, or just economy applications, the SuperTech is a great value.

I'm personally using two SuperTech filters, one Mobil 1, and one Motorcraft. All perform well, but I would say that the motorcraft, in the FL400s applications is the best value with a Silcone ADBV, good media, and WIX style construction.
Jerry Ramey, I'm not exactly sure what is required, test equipment wise that is, to determine what a given filter's micron rating is but some filters say right on the box what their Micron Rating is; For Example, Mobil 1's filter box states 10 - 20 Micron Rating, Fram doesn't state on the box but their tech. bulletins state from 15 Micron's (H.P. or High Performance Filter )up to 25 - 40 Microns on their high-volume filters sold thru volume retailers. Amsoil's Specs. show them at 4 - 6 Microns; they are absolute at 20 microns (one pass thru the filter gets 100% of the contaminents at 20 microns and greater). The numbers for any given filter should be pretty easy to obtain. For those of you not so familiar with wear characteristics directly related to micron size, the difference between 4 microns and 20 microns is huge ! Another positive note for those of you using Synthetics, you can filter them much tighter because of the flow / pumpability characteristics and thus keep your oil much, much cleaner for much longer intervals. Are there filters on the market, other than Amsoil, that are designed for synthetic oil Only ? That's right, Amsoil's filters are not designed to be used with Petroleum Oils. NOTE: All of the numbers provided above are for full-flow filters ONLY; the by-pass numbers are much tighter than even 1 micron.

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Does anyone here have experience or data concerning Donaldson filters for automotive use?
We use a lot of their industrial filters at the industrial site I work at and I am much more impressed with them than some of the other brands (like WIX). I am considering them for personal use, but would also like some other input in the matter.
quote:
Originally posted by jreamer:
Does anyone have comments on the Purolator Pure One oil filter for cars? I'm looking for the best oil filter. Thanks.

Jeff


I've used them since I started driving along with Mobil 1 filters. In my opinion they are two of the best filters you can easily buy in most good parts stores.

I don't care much for the filters that are supposed to be good for 25,000 miles, etc. I feel they don't filter the smaller stuff as well until they start to realy load up. There has to be a trade off for car filters, that was the way it was explained to me. So for a normal OCI or following the OM the Pure One filter is what I'd use.
The good news is no matter what filer you use, it doesn't make much difference. I tend to favor thread end bypasses and ones made in America by an American company. Part of the price of a Pure 1 with its metal to metal dome end bypass goes to Germany. I would like to see the good jobs in engineering and management stay in America.

Unlike a certain other site, I hope I am free to say that here without it getting deleted.
quote:
Originally posted by boxcartommie22:
i like the stainless steel oil filters been using them for years now no worries about flows nor letting big particles through the paper filters..gets all small stuff 100% absolute 35u nominal 10u


How, exactly, are you able to clean such a beast?

BTW, everyone remember the SAE study on micron sizes?

40 to 30 micron cut wear 50%
40 to 15 micron is was 75%!

so yeah, filters matter.

And none of us can see anything that small.
hi robert, its really easy to clean i have a spare on hand too..or i justgo ahead and clean the one that i took off...few min spray with brake kleen and then wash with soap and water..gets everything out...no trouble at all..it is comforting to know if any metal breaks loose in engine its not going to penetrate the mesh like paper will..also the filter companies don't tell you the really big particles 200u that get pass a paper filter..these work great..we also use these nhra pro mods with 80lbs of boost very high flow with no restrition..

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