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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

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You could ask 100 different people that question and would probably get 100 different answers. Everyone seems to have their favorite brand, blend and weight. My "personal" favorite for automotive gas engines is Texas Refinery Corp. Pro-Spec 5W/20 or 5W/30 (depending on the engine) and for diesel engines Pro-Spec III 15W/40 and for 2007 diesels with particulate filters Pro-Spec IV 15W/40. Then again, I have never been one to follow the crowd. Smile
Simple question - impossible answer! Each particular user has own “winning combination”.
Some (of us) will die for synthetics, some are not able to see further of petroleum oils. Some (majority, actually) stuck with 3000 mi changes and do not even want to think about extended drains while some (of us) multiply recommended drain intervals several times using UOA service. Some fall for fancy advertising (‘golden horses’ or ‘liquid engineering’), some prefer to make choice based on technical data. Some … Oh, factors and combinations are uncountable.
Thank you all.
I want to explain why i asked that question. May be i'll get more precise answer.
Here in Russia we have powerfull advertisment of Castrol, Mobil, Total, Esso and other famouse brands(but it's expensive), but i ask myself - what i buy - trademark or really good oil? And i want to know your opinion about it.
What about me - i prefer oils recommended by car's producters for example native Dia Queen for MMC or Toyota native oil.
But there is no any advertisement of it here.
Thanks (and sorry for my english)
It's a little bit different with (old lady) Europe. Like everywhere, you'll primarily pay trademark but accompanied with quality in ‘this case’! It's well known, for instance, that European Castrol Syntec is synthetic oil while US version is not. There are more oil manufacturers in Europe, competition is harsher and that obviously results with better quality.

I hope that you can find more precise answer about US synthetic oils at http://www.amsoil.com/products/atm_testing/index_flash.aspx
but, because of unavailability in Russia eliminate Amsoil and check what happened with other oil brands. Several oil tests are performed and based on obtained results make your own conclusion about preferred brands.

If I were you I wouldn’t stick with ‘native oil’. It is OK to follow recommended viscosity but forget about ‘recommended manufacturer’. That is only money game! It is more than sure that your car OEM has financial interest in recommended brand. Doesn’t it sound strange for you that only one oil brand, among hundreds of others, is ‘the right one’.
Last edited by djordan
Thank you Djordan for your explanation.
About native (genuine?) oil. Why i prefer it.
For instance i used Castrol Magnatec full synthetic 5W40 and after that a heard noise of hydrocompensantors in the engine of my car. When i changed it to native oil DiaQween 5W20 - noise is disappeared.
Interesting result.
By the way how much is 4 liters of your favorite oil?
Sorry for offtopic.
quote:
Originally posted by usedjapancardialer:
... used Castrol Magnatec full synthetic 5W40... I changed it to native oil DiaQween 5W20 - noise disappeared...

Haven't you noticed qualitative change: from 5W-40 to 5W-20? Not a big difference but noise disappearing key most likely is there - not in oil brand. It was just coincidence probably that you used 'native oil'.

Price of my favorite oil? I prefer Amsoil 5W-30 for 40.000 kms (or one year). Retail price is CDN $10.26 (sales taxes included) for 0.946/l (1 quart). Pricey? Not exactly having in mind just one oil change (and occasional adding) for whole year and that I have it for CDN $7.16.

I think that you do not need to care about Mobil, Castrol, Esso... at all. If things in Russian market are today as they were with lubricants for military purposes 15 to 20 years ago there, for sure, is no real need to for any of western brands. My experience (with Russian lubricants) tells me that and be sure that western companies know facts better than we. That is actual reason for ‘advertising war’ what is happening right know there.
Last edited by djordan
quote:
Price of my favorite oil?... Retail price is CDN $10.26 (sales taxes included) for 0.946/l (1 quart). Pricey? Not exactly having in mind just one oil change (and occasional adding) for whole year and that I have it for CDN $7.16.


Did some number crunching and saw that my favorite oil costs me approx. .00125 per km. (40,000 kms in one year, didn't factor in the oil filter)compared to other conventional options: approx. .01 per km. over a period of a year - using 20,000 kms in the year.
Thanks Jordan.
May be you right about advertising war. I'm afraid our russian brands(TNK, LUKOIL, ROSSNEFT,LUXOIL) is not suitable for japan engines because not tested for it.
I can't make my choice based only on viscosity formula. I want to trust contents of "beauteful packaging".
I care about engine of my car. And i don't want my engine would be killed in "advertising war" Smile
4 liter of my favorite oil costs almost 50 US(MMC genuine)(and i look for alternative to reduce cost).
My mileage per year is 10000 -15000 km.
I change the oil after 5000 - 6000 mileage.
quote:
Originally posted by usedjapancardialer:
... I can't make my choice based only on viscosity formula. I want to trust contents of "beauteful packaging"...

Neither do I 'recommend’ it!
Grouping oils by (recommended) viscosity and by base oil (mineral or synthetic) should be just first step in process of oil selection. Next step should be collecting technical data about all applicable oils. Internet is a perfect tool for that purpose. Data comparison is next natural and most demanding step which will take the most part of (your) time. As a reference point take ‘native oil’ and check how all prospect oils relate to it. Begin with API /ACEA specifications. API ‘rules’ that SM is better than SL, or CL-4 is better than CH-4. ACEA ‘says’ that A3/B3 is as good as A5/B5 for extended drains. Compare then viscosity numbers followed by other available points. All of manufacturers do not post same data so be careful about it. As a result the most alike oil would be the best replacement for ‘native oil’. As a final step price comparison should help you to find out is particular choice going to improve your budget or not. You’ll definitely benefit from both options. At least you’ll have more options for future applications.

Just explained would be explained correct technical approach in oil selection (what I made tens of times professionally) and my diplomatic answer to your question as well. But, it’s for sure that you didn’t expect it. So, I’ll try to be a little bit more suggestive. If I want to be sincere my personal Amsoil alternative would be Mobil1. By me, they have some ethical issues in relation to customers but definitely not technical ones.
quote:
Originally posted by usedjapancardialer:
...if you are not satisfied by your new oil ...

First of all I wouldn’t make a (blind) choice based solely on price. Generally, it is a good rule but better and more reliable ways are always available.
Supposing that I get into ‘noisy situation’ I’d do next:
Fact is that there is no real reason for immediate change of oil. It’s for sure that oil performs duties and engine is no in danger. That is most important. But, we are now at ‘field of finesses’ isn't it? That (strange) sound will bother me little by little more till I decide to go with other brand. Earlier or later (what can last for some time needed to heal ‘financial hole’ made by previous purchase) I’ll give a try to some other brand. So, step by step (read: brand by brand) I’ll have ‘perfect replacement’.
quote:
Originally posted by usedjapancardialer:
...I hope such experiences will not damage engine of my car...

There is no need for "hope". No damage will occur for sure! Why? Much worse oils will perform basic lubrication duties and we are trying to find now “the best of best". Aren't we? So, test “your” oil brands and have a fun.

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