Well, it seemed to me that the overwhelming reaction was disappointment but that doesn't mean that SynLube fell short. The lab report didn't indicate anything really wrong. They didn't seem to feel that the high copper level, for example, was anything to worry about. Miro Kefurt also stated his reservations about oil testing unless it is a very high quality testing costing hundreds of dollars noting that sometimes something would show up in one sample and not in the next. This was in regard to continuing testing of six police cars that were converted to SynLube.
If you're interested, I'll post the comments he made.
Since no one seemed much interested in further investigation, I have put further time on this project on hold. If there's more interest, I'll submit a sample (taken at the same time as the first) to Terry Dyson. It's gonna cost $80 for a baseline sample from new oil plus the test for the used oil. For me there's not much point in the expenditure if no one's interested though. I'm already sold on the product and I continue to use it without worry.
BTW, would any of the other oils look this good without replenishment after 15.3K miles?
Also, I have yet to hear an effective contradiction to my claim that my engine must like what it's using considering the mileage I'm getting which is 3.5 miles consistantly above EPA estimates. Also the plugs were absolutely pristine after about 14K miles and there is only the barest trace of dust along the tailpipe since installing the exhaust nearly 14K miles ago. If SynLube wasn't doing the job, I just don't believe these things would be possible.
Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity
15k miles is not what Synlube is about. It's about a lot more miles than that, and I wonder if there are that many miles left in you oil. There are Mobil 1 and Amsoil and other oils that are going 15-25k and one year before being changed. I don't have a uoa because I'm not one of those people. I thank you for posting info on Synlube and look forward to Terry's response. A lot of people are interested in Synlube, if for nothing more than the outrageous claims made on the web site. And I say outrageous becuase they are different from anyone else in the oil business. And this oil is not very popular and it's hard to figure out what it's about. Thank you, again.
quote:BTW, would any of the other oils look this good without replenishment after 15.3K miles?
search over at the Bob is the oil guy "BITOG"
website a new GMC truck? has 12K on Havoline oil with far lower wear numbers and a real TBN
number.
bruce
Touche, Bruce, touche!!!
Barkerman: You're right, 15K is not what SynLube's about but that's all I've got on the oil. But I'm very confident that the oil will be just fine at 30K and at 60K etc. Unfortunately, it's going to take some time for me to run up those miles. Because I'm hacked off at the oil companies for what I believe are policies that have lead to higher gas prices than the declining supply of crude would dictate, I drive as little as possible to keep the price of gas down.
I just checked and there have been over 15k views of this thread, which much be some kind of record and indicates there is considerable interest in the subject. There a a lot of people who feel that the oil companies have been taking advantage of us. Unfortunately, they have us by the short ones.
Houkster, for you good efforts, if you ever get up here in the "great white north," there's a free night for you in our Loft Suite.
Regards, Paul.
http://www.chalet-by-the-lake-b-and-b.com
Houkster, for you good efforts, if you ever get up here in the "great white north," there's a free night for you in our Loft Suite.
Regards, Paul.
http://www.chalet-by-the-lake-b-and-b.com
INHALIBURTON: Thanks for your very kind comments. In another 15K, I'll submit another report, if not sooner.
Does all this mean that Synlube is just another oil and the only thing it excells in, is the price?
I have never believed that SynLube was just another oil. "Another oil" would never have generated the amount of comment that SynLube has. Nor do I believe that the results I received provide enough information to allow a true perspective on the oil. One test, especially one that was inexpensive, does not really tell us what this oil can do. Frankly only time and miles (in the absence of substantial capitalization of the company) will tell and I don't have enough of either to really know how it's doing yet. According to Miro, the high copper reading for example, might have been a fluke and could disappear in the next test.
Unfortunately, I'm generating as few miles as I can in order to conserve and keep gas prices down. That's something all of us should be doing. Unfortunately it seems as if most people are not paying attention to the energy crisis that poses a huge threat to our way of life and gas consumption is not declining at all. The negative side is that the additional miles that would separate SynLube's abilities from those of the pretenders is very slow in coming.
And there is the question of who will be listening by the time I've got 30K on the oil. By now, however, most of the people interested here have formed their opinion and moved on. That's regretable but not unexpected.
Really, the only solution for SynLube is for someone with lots of money to step in and provide the certification money to show that the SynLube formula will meet any API and ACEA standard. Anecdotal information can only take us so far.
Unfortunately, I'm generating as few miles as I can in order to conserve and keep gas prices down. That's something all of us should be doing. Unfortunately it seems as if most people are not paying attention to the energy crisis that poses a huge threat to our way of life and gas consumption is not declining at all. The negative side is that the additional miles that would separate SynLube's abilities from those of the pretenders is very slow in coming.
And there is the question of who will be listening by the time I've got 30K on the oil. By now, however, most of the people interested here have formed their opinion and moved on. That's regretable but not unexpected.
Really, the only solution for SynLube is for someone with lots of money to step in and provide the certification money to show that the SynLube formula will meet any API and ACEA standard. Anecdotal information can only take us so far.
Houckster, I'm still here, still reading your posts, and waiting for more results. My statement about the oil was based on the information presented so far. That could change at the next interval, it could improved, get worse, or help you pocketbook, be completely used up.
I am a user of the botique style oils, hence my continued interest in Synlube, however, at three times the cost of my usual botiques, I expect it to be at least twice the product that they are.
I am a user of the botique style oils, hence my continued interest in Synlube, however, at three times the cost of my usual botiques, I expect it to be at least twice the product that they are.
I had hoped that another Synlube user would show up before the end of the year. I guess this oil is too specialized for most of us. Dropping 8 to 10 bucks a quart on botique oils is common enough, but Synlube is just too far out there. I still wonder if it works. Maybe their other customer will show up next year. I guess this thread is just about used up. No answer, at least not this year... Happy New Year everyone.
Hi Barkerman,
I've been keeping an eye on this thread. Hey, if we all wish each other a Happy Y2K + 6 we can easily push this baby to the 17th page!
It's been a lively and very interesting topic.
Anyhoo, Happy New Year to you and yours and everyone on this thread from the Great White North, eh!
Paul inHaliburton
http://www.chalet-by-the-lake-b-and-b.com
I've been keeping an eye on this thread. Hey, if we all wish each other a Happy Y2K + 6 we can easily push this baby to the 17th page!
It's been a lively and very interesting topic.
Anyhoo, Happy New Year to you and yours and everyone on this thread from the Great White North, eh!
Paul inHaliburton
http://www.chalet-by-the-lake-b-and-b.com
Dad2leia, I know you've been on this thread for a long time and I don't want to change the topic, but are you using Maxima Ultra engine oil? What were you using before, and if everything about Synlube is true is close to true, are you planning to switch?
Barkerman,
Yes I am and I was considering it depending on the findings of the UOA's on this thread. I will say this though, if the UOA's don't pan out or improve much, I think that the Maxima is a much better "bang for the buck" so to speak, as long as oil consumption isn't an issue for your particular vehicle.
Yes I am and I was considering it depending on the findings of the UOA's on this thread. I will say this though, if the UOA's don't pan out or improve much, I think that the Maxima is a much better "bang for the buck" so to speak, as long as oil consumption isn't an issue for your particular vehicle.
Houckster: I would like to communicate with you about this. Is there a way I can contact you or is there a PM system on the Noria site.
inHaliburton: Just checked out your website. Very nice place. Maybe I can bring my wife up next year for our 25th.
inHaliburton: Just checked out your website. Very nice place. Maybe I can bring my wife up next year for our 25th.
I've just passed the 21K mark on the engine oil. Oil consumption is about 4 oz. since the SynLube was installed and none since my last post. I'm still extremely happy with the oil and my MPG is excellent at 19.3 overall since installing it. That's pretty good for a 4WD Ranger.
What are your questions JohnnyPipe? I will attempt to answer as best I can about the SynLube. Check their site: SynLube Just turn down the music and there's a lot of good information though the website needs a webmaster's expert hand desperately.
I am not aware of any way to communicate directly at this point and because of security reasons, I don't think I'd like to publish my e-mail address.
What are your questions JohnnyPipe? I will attempt to answer as best I can about the SynLube. Check their site: SynLube Just turn down the music and there's a lot of good information though the website needs a webmaster's expert hand desperately.
I am not aware of any way to communicate directly at this point and because of security reasons, I don't think I'd like to publish my e-mail address.
quote:inHaliburton: Just checked out your website. Very nice place. Maybe I can bring my wife up next year for our 25th.
Hi Gang...
Thanks for the kudos, Johnnypipe. We have a full house this Victoria Day long weekend up here in the Great White North. These are the coordinates if any of you jokers are into GPSing. I plan to add a page dedicated to geocaching, et al on both site in due course. Where you located, anyway?
N45 05.803 W78 40.987
I recently acquired a Garmin MAP60 Csx.
Regards, Paul.
www.chaletbb.ca
www.paul-hicks.ca
inHaliburton: I'm in Wisconsin.
Houckster: Well not sure where to begin. I spent the better part of 2 hours reading the 16 pages of post on this and after sifting through the sincere versus the slamming I don't want to read it all again, so I will start over.
1. What year is your Ranger?
2. Why did you choose the 5W50 over the 0W40?
3. Why did you decide to use the CM filter instead of the one that Miro sells?
4. How many miles were on your Ranger when you switched to Synlube?
5. Speaking of the CM filter, how often do you change out the element?
I have a 2004 Honda Element that will be out of warranty in about 500 miles. For the sake of experimentation I might consider trying the 0W40 to see how it performs.
I have checked the website and agree it could use a professional webmaster to clean things up a bit. Showing all of the old Fiat cars is a bit dated in my opinion.
According to Noria you can communicate with another through the buddy system. I have you listed but nothing happened, so I will have to read more about it. I don't mind communicating here but I will not tolorate any snide comments from anyone who does not want to be part of a civil conversation.
So, let's see what happens.
Houckster: Well not sure where to begin. I spent the better part of 2 hours reading the 16 pages of post on this and after sifting through the sincere versus the slamming I don't want to read it all again, so I will start over.
1. What year is your Ranger?
2. Why did you choose the 5W50 over the 0W40?
3. Why did you decide to use the CM filter instead of the one that Miro sells?
4. How many miles were on your Ranger when you switched to Synlube?
5. Speaking of the CM filter, how often do you change out the element?
I have a 2004 Honda Element that will be out of warranty in about 500 miles. For the sake of experimentation I might consider trying the 0W40 to see how it performs.
I have checked the website and agree it could use a professional webmaster to clean things up a bit. Showing all of the old Fiat cars is a bit dated in my opinion.
According to Noria you can communicate with another through the buddy system. I have you listed but nothing happened, so I will have to read more about it. I don't mind communicating here but I will not tolorate any snide comments from anyone who does not want to be part of a civil conversation.
So, let's see what happens.
1) OK, I have a 2004 Ranger, it has 4WD, a 4.0L V-6 and 5-spd manual. All components now have SynLube lubricants. The coolant system uses SynLube coolant with distilled water.
2) The 5W50 oil is designed as a universal oil and will work in all engines so that's what I use. SynLube did develop the 0W40 for the new breed of engines that are designed for the ultra thin oils (5W20 and 0W20). Frankly, though, I wouldn't hesitate to use the 5W50 oil in those engines as well. Actually, the 5W50 oil is actually very close to a 0W50. According to SynLube, the formula was adjusted to make it a 5W50 oil because 0W oils put some customers off. I don't think that's a problem now but SynLube hasn't changed the formula yet.
I talked with Miro Kefurt at SynLube and as I recall, there is really no advantage to the 0W40 oil for most engines. In fact, it must NOT be used in a diesel engine. With regard to your Honda Element, were I its owner, I would use the 5W50 but that's just me. If you decide to try SynLube, you'll order directly from Miro and he'll advise you as to what to use and he will suggest a maintenance program for you.
3) The CM filter is a gorgeous unit that can be rebuilt. For my money, it's the Cadillac (or BMW or Rolls Royce) of oil filters. One of the big advantages is that you can easily inspect the filtration media when changing the filter to see what's inside. Rebuilding the filter costs about $15 dollars and I plan on doing it every 5 years. I put two neodymium magnets inside to catch any loose ferric material as well. The filters that SynLube sells are excellent and before the CM filter was known to me, I used them with complete confidence.
4) I had 783 miles on the Ranger when I switched. As a matter of practice, I convert to SynLube at the first opportunity. Here's my reasoning: When an engine comes off the line, it has the finest tolerances it will ever have and these they are necessary for the greatest engine efficiency (best MPG and emissions). There is almost NO break-in period with the new engines. On the other hand, the 0W20 and 5W20 oils are the same viscosity as the oil of yesteryear that came in new engines and they were installed to facilitate high levels of wear so things like rings would seat quickly since these parts were rather crudely made and had lots of asperities. All that loose metal that was created is why a lot of people learned to change their oil within a few hundred miles and that carries over to today though I don't think it's very important any more except possibly when the thin oils are used. Of course a couple of powerful magnets such as SynLube sells would do the same thing as changing the oil.
Much is made that the new thin oils improve gas mileage but while engines will show a minute improvement in MPG in the lab, on the road, there's no practical improvement and in fact, SynLube (5W50) claims that their lubricant provides better mileage by 2-3%. What one gains through reduced pumping loses with the new oils is more than lost with increased friction because the thin oils don't keep engine parts separated as well. These oils are also much more volatile whereas SynLube can easily operate at much higher temperatures than petroleum oils can with much reduced volatility.
5) I'll change the filter element every 5 years or so. It's a far more robust filter element than the paper elements in throwaways.
BTW, the Fiat information isn't really dated and is actually very valuable. The point is to show how much benefit a proper oil can make even in the worst engines and those Fiat engines were awful yet with SynLube their service life was almost tripled if I remember correctly.
With regard to snide comments, I understand. When something is new in concept as SynLube is there will be plenty of naysayers. Some are honest in their disapproval which is fine, others just like to be a pain in the butt. When you talk about oil, you have to have a very durable epidermis.
One last thing, I checked my Profile and I do have the option to send and receive private messages checked but the administrators have not granted me that permission. If they do, a icon will show up on my posts that should permit private messages.
2) The 5W50 oil is designed as a universal oil and will work in all engines so that's what I use. SynLube did develop the 0W40 for the new breed of engines that are designed for the ultra thin oils (5W20 and 0W20). Frankly, though, I wouldn't hesitate to use the 5W50 oil in those engines as well. Actually, the 5W50 oil is actually very close to a 0W50. According to SynLube, the formula was adjusted to make it a 5W50 oil because 0W oils put some customers off. I don't think that's a problem now but SynLube hasn't changed the formula yet.
I talked with Miro Kefurt at SynLube and as I recall, there is really no advantage to the 0W40 oil for most engines. In fact, it must NOT be used in a diesel engine. With regard to your Honda Element, were I its owner, I would use the 5W50 but that's just me. If you decide to try SynLube, you'll order directly from Miro and he'll advise you as to what to use and he will suggest a maintenance program for you.
3) The CM filter is a gorgeous unit that can be rebuilt. For my money, it's the Cadillac (or BMW or Rolls Royce) of oil filters. One of the big advantages is that you can easily inspect the filtration media when changing the filter to see what's inside. Rebuilding the filter costs about $15 dollars and I plan on doing it every 5 years. I put two neodymium magnets inside to catch any loose ferric material as well. The filters that SynLube sells are excellent and before the CM filter was known to me, I used them with complete confidence.
4) I had 783 miles on the Ranger when I switched. As a matter of practice, I convert to SynLube at the first opportunity. Here's my reasoning: When an engine comes off the line, it has the finest tolerances it will ever have and these they are necessary for the greatest engine efficiency (best MPG and emissions). There is almost NO break-in period with the new engines. On the other hand, the 0W20 and 5W20 oils are the same viscosity as the oil of yesteryear that came in new engines and they were installed to facilitate high levels of wear so things like rings would seat quickly since these parts were rather crudely made and had lots of asperities. All that loose metal that was created is why a lot of people learned to change their oil within a few hundred miles and that carries over to today though I don't think it's very important any more except possibly when the thin oils are used. Of course a couple of powerful magnets such as SynLube sells would do the same thing as changing the oil.
Much is made that the new thin oils improve gas mileage but while engines will show a minute improvement in MPG in the lab, on the road, there's no practical improvement and in fact, SynLube (5W50) claims that their lubricant provides better mileage by 2-3%. What one gains through reduced pumping loses with the new oils is more than lost with increased friction because the thin oils don't keep engine parts separated as well. These oils are also much more volatile whereas SynLube can easily operate at much higher temperatures than petroleum oils can with much reduced volatility.
5) I'll change the filter element every 5 years or so. It's a far more robust filter element than the paper elements in throwaways.
BTW, the Fiat information isn't really dated and is actually very valuable. The point is to show how much benefit a proper oil can make even in the worst engines and those Fiat engines were awful yet with SynLube their service life was almost tripled if I remember correctly.
With regard to snide comments, I understand. When something is new in concept as SynLube is there will be plenty of naysayers. Some are honest in their disapproval which is fine, others just like to be a pain in the butt. When you talk about oil, you have to have a very durable epidermis.
One last thing, I checked my Profile and I do have the option to send and receive private messages checked but the administrators have not granted me that permission. If they do, a icon will show up on my posts that should permit private messages.
Very interesting and informative recap of the thread, Houckster. I'm driving a much newer Ford Focus now. I replaced the 2000 with a newer used 2005 ZXW which has the newer Duratec engine. I'm still running under warranty, but at this rate I'll be out of warranty next year. I've been using 5W20 synthetic oil for changes, whatever happens to be on sale at the time. I was going to change to a 5W30 oil, but was talked out of it at the Jiffy Lube cuz they say that Ford won't honour claims if you don't use the 5W20 oil. I'm pulling a trailor with lawn equipment and I don't feel comfortable using these thinner oils.
