So your response to the fact that none of the points match between your UOA and what synlube states as correct values is that $20 UOA's are basicly worthless. If this UOA is worthless then all UOA's are worthless and why bother.
Honestly with that line of thinking 3 month 3000 mile oil changes makes perfect sense and a lifetime lubricant falls into the relm of Slick 50, Duralube and the rest.
If this UOA is considered correct then your oil is far out of spec. You even commented that copper and silicone tested high. But according to synlubes site silicone should be at least 200ppm. If this was a different oil Mobil 1 or Amsoil perhaps, except for high wear numbers it would be considered an acceptable UOA and would be included in any analysis of a given oil for comparison.
To really evaluate synlube we would need a VOA and at least 2 or more UOA's on the same vehicle none of which synlube has yet to release or provide. Wait I forgot UOA's are completely worthless and not worth doing.
Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity
Unless everything is done correctly, TATERSANDNOODLES, they are worthless. If the equipment is properly calibrated, the technician is properly trained, the proper procedures are followed, AND the technician knows something about what he/she's testing, then you can get some reliable results but you WILL NOT get a reliable result for $20. AND you will not be able to apply dino standards to SynLube because SynLube is not a petroleum product.
The bottom line is that I have absolutely no incentive to do UOAs for people.
When someone says to me that "I'll have to see several UOAs before I think SynLube is anything different than snake oil, I have to wonder just what the point of such a comment is. From a profit standpoint, I don't care if anyone buys SynLube, I'm not selling it. If someone dismisses SynLube, that is their decision and they will pay for it through higher maintenance costs and time spent on that maintenance. Some have told me that oil changes are how they keep in touch with their vehicle. OK, I can understand that but a wax job is what works for me.
I did the best test possible, I asked Miro tough questions and I was impressed with his frank answers. Then I risked thousands of dollars in repairs to see if SynLube worked. It does.
Tell me who else is getting the results I am after using their oil 37K miles over 3.75 years with almost no oil consumption and gas mileage substantially above the old EPA system estimate. And compared to dino oil, I'm saving money. I broke even at 23,600 miles and that includes the cost for the extra quart of Service Fill I purchased which is almost unused.
Just as important for me as the freedom from oil changes without compromising the engine is the reduced environmental impact of my vehicle. During the lifespan of my Ranger, it would normally create hundreds of quarts of used dino oil that's considered a toxic substance.
The reality is that SynLube is not a magical product. It is simply one that takes advantage of currently available technology. Any of the oil marketers could pay to develop a formula with approximately equal properties and sell it within a year or so.
So what's the problem? Why don't they? Here are some of the reasons: 1) They would eventually have to admit that they could have sold this stuff all along but lied to us for the sake of profit; 2) Retail outlets don't sell things that don't generate floor traffic; 3) It is more profitable to sell an adequate product frequently than an excellent product once.
In conclusion: I have stated my experiences. All I can do is assure you I have accurately stated my true experience with this product. I can, with a clear conscience, assure people that the product is worth investigating. After, that, you're on your own, just like I was, when I started out.
One final point. I have talked about SynLube for several years now. Though I can count on one hand the number of people who I know have tried SynLube on my recommendation, I have never heard anyone say that I gave them a bum steer.
The bottom line is that I have absolutely no incentive to do UOAs for people.
When someone says to me that "I'll have to see several UOAs before I think SynLube is anything different than snake oil, I have to wonder just what the point of such a comment is. From a profit standpoint, I don't care if anyone buys SynLube, I'm not selling it. If someone dismisses SynLube, that is their decision and they will pay for it through higher maintenance costs and time spent on that maintenance. Some have told me that oil changes are how they keep in touch with their vehicle. OK, I can understand that but a wax job is what works for me.
I did the best test possible, I asked Miro tough questions and I was impressed with his frank answers. Then I risked thousands of dollars in repairs to see if SynLube worked. It does.
Tell me who else is getting the results I am after using their oil 37K miles over 3.75 years with almost no oil consumption and gas mileage substantially above the old EPA system estimate. And compared to dino oil, I'm saving money. I broke even at 23,600 miles and that includes the cost for the extra quart of Service Fill I purchased which is almost unused.
Just as important for me as the freedom from oil changes without compromising the engine is the reduced environmental impact of my vehicle. During the lifespan of my Ranger, it would normally create hundreds of quarts of used dino oil that's considered a toxic substance.
The reality is that SynLube is not a magical product. It is simply one that takes advantage of currently available technology. Any of the oil marketers could pay to develop a formula with approximately equal properties and sell it within a year or so.
So what's the problem? Why don't they? Here are some of the reasons: 1) They would eventually have to admit that they could have sold this stuff all along but lied to us for the sake of profit; 2) Retail outlets don't sell things that don't generate floor traffic; 3) It is more profitable to sell an adequate product frequently than an excellent product once.
In conclusion: I have stated my experiences. All I can do is assure you I have accurately stated my true experience with this product. I can, with a clear conscience, assure people that the product is worth investigating. After, that, you're on your own, just like I was, when I started out.
One final point. I have talked about SynLube for several years now. Though I can count on one hand the number of people who I know have tried SynLube on my recommendation, I have never heard anyone say that I gave them a bum steer.
Wll said, Houckster.
You have to considder that most people in the US have been brainwashed so many years with the magic 3000 mile OCI, that it will be almost impossible to make them understand this, even if they saw it with their own eyes.
I will compare it to taking a trip to Iran, trying to convince them that it is OK to eat pork meat.
You have to considder that most people in the US have been brainwashed so many years with the magic 3000 mile OCI, that it will be almost impossible to make them understand this, even if they saw it with their own eyes.
I will compare it to taking a trip to Iran, trying to convince them that it is OK to eat pork meat.
quote:So what's the problem? Why don't they? Here are some of the reasons: 1) They would eventually have to admit that they could have sold this stuff all along but lied to us for the sake of profit; 2) Retail outlets don't sell things that don't generate floor traffic; 3) It is more profitable to sell an adequate product frequently than an excellent product once.
Well Houckster, I think you are right on the money with the above statement.
Here's just one single example of using less oil over a considerable period of time.
Think of how many countless trillions of barrels of oil that would be still in the ground if for every car that has been sold in the past 20 or more years could have got by with just one or two oil changes over it life. And with that in mind, I wonder what we could be paying today for gasoline at the pump, oil for heating our homes and businesses, merchanise made from petroleum products, ad nauseum...
Let's hear it for the oil businesses around the World--NOT.
I have read a number of the posting on Synlube. I find as some others that I want to know just what the base stock of this lubricant is composed of, who manufactures the base stock, what name does the manufacturer of the base stock sell it under. It surely is called something other than Synlube.
I am thinking that it is a PAO with the addition of teflon and graphite additives which sound detremental. Does anyone know anything about the base stock?
I have read over the years that teflon crystalizes near 450 degrees F, and I question how do these together handle all the air born contaminants if a bypass filter system is not used to analytically clean the oil regularly.
Huskster what type of air filter do you use?
That CM oil filter seems ok but there are others I know of that will do a better job.
I am thinking that it is a PAO with the addition of teflon and graphite additives which sound detremental. Does anyone know anything about the base stock?
I have read over the years that teflon crystalizes near 450 degrees F, and I question how do these together handle all the air born contaminants if a bypass filter system is not used to analytically clean the oil regularly.
Huskster what type of air filter do you use?
That CM oil filter seems ok but there are others I know of that will do a better job.
quote:That CM oil filter seems ok but there are others I know of that will do a better job.
Ampere, what other spin-on filters are worth considering?
First of all: It is Houckster, not Huckster.
Secondly, SynLube is composed of 5 synthetic baseoils and 3 solid lubricants. The solid lubricants are specifically designed for use in as automotive lubricants. PAO is definitely one of the liquid lubricants but the formula is proprietary so I can't tell you more.
The teflon in SynLube is made by Shamrock Industries and is between 0.7 and 1.0 microns. By way of comparison, red blood cells are 7.5 microns. Will teflon crystallize at 450 degrees? Maybe, I don't know but what's the problem? Even your engine's hotspots won't get anywhere near that temperature. What do you think would happen with conventional dino at that temperature? This is not a problem as no OEM could possibly permit such an engine to reach the marketplace.
With regard to the oil filter, a bypass system would be "better" but I can see no advantage in conjunction with SynLube. If SynLube is installed in an engine that's in good condition, the most important function of the filter is to permit high flow rates. Since essentially no engine wear will occur with SynLube and because SynLube does not deteriorate, there will essentially nothing for the filter to trap. I confirmed this myself when I removed the CM filter after three years. I have looked at many filters, none approach the CM filter's quality.
I suggest you read the posts, pro and con, and then look at the SynLube site. While it's poorly done from a webmaster's POV, it does have a lot of good information. Personally, I've said what there is to say about SynLube. From here on, people will have to make their own call.
I use a K&N filter in my stock air intake.
Secondly, SynLube is composed of 5 synthetic baseoils and 3 solid lubricants. The solid lubricants are specifically designed for use in as automotive lubricants. PAO is definitely one of the liquid lubricants but the formula is proprietary so I can't tell you more.
The teflon in SynLube is made by Shamrock Industries and is between 0.7 and 1.0 microns. By way of comparison, red blood cells are 7.5 microns. Will teflon crystallize at 450 degrees? Maybe, I don't know but what's the problem? Even your engine's hotspots won't get anywhere near that temperature. What do you think would happen with conventional dino at that temperature? This is not a problem as no OEM could possibly permit such an engine to reach the marketplace.
With regard to the oil filter, a bypass system would be "better" but I can see no advantage in conjunction with SynLube. If SynLube is installed in an engine that's in good condition, the most important function of the filter is to permit high flow rates. Since essentially no engine wear will occur with SynLube and because SynLube does not deteriorate, there will essentially nothing for the filter to trap. I confirmed this myself when I removed the CM filter after three years. I have looked at many filters, none approach the CM filter's quality.
I suggest you read the posts, pro and con, and then look at the SynLube site. While it's poorly done from a webmaster's POV, it does have a lot of good information. Personally, I've said what there is to say about SynLube. From here on, people will have to make their own call.
I use a K&N filter in my stock air intake.
All good points, Houckster.
I've made up my mind that when I changed my oil and Fram filter at a quick change oil outlet a month ago while on a trip to Sudbury at a cost of $75. that it was the last time. I'll be due for another oil change next spring so plan to have a filter and enough Synlube shipped to my daughter's place in the States for my car, diesel-powered electric generator, gasoline power washer and my John Deere lawnmower.
It's telling and interesting that you've noted that the CM oil filter was particularly clean after 3 years of filtering Synlube.
I've made up my mind that when I changed my oil and Fram filter at a quick change oil outlet a month ago while on a trip to Sudbury at a cost of $75. that it was the last time. I'll be due for another oil change next spring so plan to have a filter and enough Synlube shipped to my daughter's place in the States for my car, diesel-powered electric generator, gasoline power washer and my John Deere lawnmower.
It's telling and interesting that you've noted that the CM oil filter was particularly clean after 3 years of filtering Synlube.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Houckster:
Tell me who else is getting the results I am after using their oil 37K miles over 3.75 years with almost no oil consumption and gas mileage substantially above the old EPA system estimate. And compared to dino oil, I'm saving money. I broke even at 23,600 miles and that includes the cost for the extra quart of Service Fill I purchased which is almost unused.
[QUOTE]
Ok what results are we talking about. Fuel economy is very subjective, I get considerably higher mileage then I should using the old system as well. I am not claiming that pennzoil is doing anything special. Over the summer I had several tanks over 40mpg in a car that should get 38mpg highway on the old system. Mileage changes are very hard to prove from person to person and car to car.
How did you break even at 23K miles? I did the math for my work car and I need more then 75k miles just to break even. If we say that testing oil is fallible then Amsoils claims of 25K can be taken at face value. One could run 3 changes of Amsoil and use their filters to its warrantied limits, right? That would also mean my 5k mile dino changes are to short as well since the lab is more then likely wrong, right? I did my math for both dino and Amsoil, it was 72k for dino and 75k for Amsoil respectively. If I had any oil consumption past half a quart in 75k miles then I would need 100k miles just to break even.
You also do rather few miles at roughly 10k a year with trips out of town included. I do my normal commute 5 days a week and run 25k per year, I even drive my truck or 1 of my other cars to work from time to time and never drive my car on the weekends. I only commute in my car and never take it out of town, if I did my mileage average would go up noticeably. Its hard to make a comparison on 1 car unless you had something to compare it to in the same car. If you had a good baseline on whatever oil you like then switched it would be better for comparison of claims.
I still don't see a way to discount the analysis results since synlube wants you to sample your oil and will put you on a maitainence plan so they can tell you when to sample it. If analysis is so flaud then we can take allot of claims at face value not just synlubes. 35k miles is more then possible and we can explain away any bad results as lab errors and poor sample handling. Just like I said earlier and synlube actually suggests you need a VOA and 3 used samples tested to determine what has changed. Oh and using the same lab each time would only be prudent.
I'm actually still interested in this oil although not for cost saving reasons. Much like a hybrid I cannot make the numbers work to my advantage even using full retail prices.
Tell me who else is getting the results I am after using their oil 37K miles over 3.75 years with almost no oil consumption and gas mileage substantially above the old EPA system estimate. And compared to dino oil, I'm saving money. I broke even at 23,600 miles and that includes the cost for the extra quart of Service Fill I purchased which is almost unused.
[QUOTE]
Ok what results are we talking about. Fuel economy is very subjective, I get considerably higher mileage then I should using the old system as well. I am not claiming that pennzoil is doing anything special. Over the summer I had several tanks over 40mpg in a car that should get 38mpg highway on the old system. Mileage changes are very hard to prove from person to person and car to car.
How did you break even at 23K miles? I did the math for my work car and I need more then 75k miles just to break even. If we say that testing oil is fallible then Amsoils claims of 25K can be taken at face value. One could run 3 changes of Amsoil and use their filters to its warrantied limits, right? That would also mean my 5k mile dino changes are to short as well since the lab is more then likely wrong, right? I did my math for both dino and Amsoil, it was 72k for dino and 75k for Amsoil respectively. If I had any oil consumption past half a quart in 75k miles then I would need 100k miles just to break even.
You also do rather few miles at roughly 10k a year with trips out of town included. I do my normal commute 5 days a week and run 25k per year, I even drive my truck or 1 of my other cars to work from time to time and never drive my car on the weekends. I only commute in my car and never take it out of town, if I did my mileage average would go up noticeably. Its hard to make a comparison on 1 car unless you had something to compare it to in the same car. If you had a good baseline on whatever oil you like then switched it would be better for comparison of claims.
I still don't see a way to discount the analysis results since synlube wants you to sample your oil and will put you on a maitainence plan so they can tell you when to sample it. If analysis is so flaud then we can take allot of claims at face value not just synlubes. 35k miles is more then possible and we can explain away any bad results as lab errors and poor sample handling. Just like I said earlier and synlube actually suggests you need a VOA and 3 used samples tested to determine what has changed. Oh and using the same lab each time would only be prudent.
I'm actually still interested in this oil although not for cost saving reasons. Much like a hybrid I cannot make the numbers work to my advantage even using full retail prices.
TatersAndNoodles: I will respond to these question when I can.
With regard to the cost, the 23.6K figure was derived from the traditional 3K OCI @ $25 a pop. I spent $195.50 to install the SynLube. That included a quart of Service Fill. SynLube sells a "kit" for converting to SynLube which is 15% off the cost of the retail price.
More later.
I really do suggest e-mailing SynLube with some of your questions because Miro has some good information you might find interesting.
With regard to the cost, the 23.6K figure was derived from the traditional 3K OCI @ $25 a pop. I spent $195.50 to install the SynLube. That included a quart of Service Fill. SynLube sells a "kit" for converting to SynLube which is 15% off the cost of the retail price.
More later.
I really do suggest e-mailing SynLube with some of your questions because Miro has some good information you might find interesting.
Taterandnoodles, Houckster drive 9867 miles a year(37K divided to 3.75). I don't think Amsoil would be a good alternative in the long run. Remember that Synlube gives a 15 year warranty. Both my cars are running better than ever, after changing to Synlube. Both are diesels. The one I drive, is a 1990 model Nissan 2.8 diesel, with a total of 423000 kilometers on the odometer. I have now been driving 33000 kilometers since putting Synlube in(April this year). The other car is driven by my wife(2003 Mercedes Vaneo 1.7cdi with a superchip). I put Synlube in late this summer, and it has been driven some 20000 kilometers since. Both engines have become a lot quieter, and a slight reduction in fuelconsumption(some 4%), according to exact meassuring of fuleconsumption divided to miles driven. It also performs extremely well in both the manual(Nissan) and automatic(Mercedes) transmissions. Here in Norway we pay 200usd for one hour work at the car workshop, so I guess I will reach break-even in 2008.
Again as many have asked for already in this thread something less subjective is a much better argument. My car is quieter, runs better and has more power are all poor examples if done subjectively by the car owner. Its called placebo effect.
My butt dyno is broken!!! I cannot tell the difference from one oil to the next without a significant change in weights at the least. Without some indication that my pennzoil is shot I could see me running it to the max and beyond with the car still running down the road just like the day I installed it.
Again the argument for cost savings is not there, at least for me. Last I checked the havoline lube shop charged $40 to change your oil, merchants tire normally charges $25 or $15 if you are getting something else done. I have 6 free oil changes in my glove box right now for a flub-up they had with my tires not being in the store. It costs me $13 at full price to change my oil buying my filter, which by the way I get for free from the dealer. If I didn't mind the dealer working on my car I can get free oil changes for life. It is part of their "Southern Hospitality" that the dealership uses to draw customers in, along with that you get safety inspections, loaner cars etc. It's hard to argue with free. But as we all know motor oil can be had for far below retail so why not do it myself for $3+ my free filter. Do the math on that, its a really long time to get to even.
If there is something less subjective and more repeatable that can be brought to the table then wonderful and I am all eyes, if not then we need to let it drop honestly.
My butt dyno is broken!!! I cannot tell the difference from one oil to the next without a significant change in weights at the least. Without some indication that my pennzoil is shot I could see me running it to the max and beyond with the car still running down the road just like the day I installed it.
Again the argument for cost savings is not there, at least for me. Last I checked the havoline lube shop charged $40 to change your oil, merchants tire normally charges $25 or $15 if you are getting something else done. I have 6 free oil changes in my glove box right now for a flub-up they had with my tires not being in the store. It costs me $13 at full price to change my oil buying my filter, which by the way I get for free from the dealer. If I didn't mind the dealer working on my car I can get free oil changes for life. It is part of their "Southern Hospitality" that the dealership uses to draw customers in, along with that you get safety inspections, loaner cars etc. It's hard to argue with free. But as we all know motor oil can be had for far below retail so why not do it myself for $3+ my free filter. Do the math on that, its a really long time to get to even.
If there is something less subjective and more repeatable that can be brought to the table then wonderful and I am all eyes, if not then we need to let it drop honestly.
I don't think almost 4 years(Houckster), using the same oil is subjective, Tateandnoodles. Neither is the drop in oilconsumption. UOA have too many variables that you don't control, unless you want to spend an insane amount of money for the most expencive one. I don't really think you are seriously considdering Synlube as an oil for your truck/car. You are just trying to justify your own choise. Just stay happy with what you are using now, and let people that use Synlube tell what their experience is, without having to do series of labtesting to justify it.
Synlube makes my engines perform better and also reduce smoke,noise and oilconsumption a lot, and these reasons alone, would have been enough for me to make the switch. Then, when I on top of that, can se a drop in fuelconsumption(4%Mercedes and 5% Nissan), I considder it to be a bargain.
However, I can see that we have different preferances, and that's OK by me.
Synlube makes my engines perform better and also reduce smoke,noise and oilconsumption a lot, and these reasons alone, would have been enough for me to make the switch. Then, when I on top of that, can se a drop in fuelconsumption(4%Mercedes and 5% Nissan), I considder it to be a bargain.
However, I can see that we have different preferances, and that's OK by me.
TATERANDNOODLES: You, as well as other, continue to misconstrue my comments.
First of all, I am not selling this oil and I have no concern whether you use SynLube or not. I have discussed my experiences and I will continue to do so. Whether you believe me or not is your choice.
I have been talking about this oil for years and I've learned that only a minute number of people will ever be willing to use SynLube. And "oil experts" almost certainly won't.
Second, I am not going to pay for your research by doing tests and paying for UOAs that will not benefit me one bit. I know SynLube works. I and others (like Jonny-B) have found out on a day by day basis. Will the oil you use duplicate what SynLube has done for me? No, it won't and the oil manufacturer would think you crazy to try.
And oil testing IS highly subjective. The readings you get are just the point of departure. You have to figure out what they mean. Oil tests usually raise as many or more questions than they answer. And here's something you can take to the bank. If I paid for a bunch of UOAs that came out with glorious results for SynLube, those same people who wanted them would find some way to dismiss the results.
Third, I know what I have with SynLube and my CM filter: absolute protection and maximum fuel efficiency for the next 6 plus years.
Every time you have your oil changed, you have to answer the same questions. Did they do the job right? Or did they have a "flub-up"? Did they really use a quality oil? Before SynLube, I went to the local Jiffy-Lube. The oil was dipensed from oil barrels that may or may not have had what they said was in them. I always wondered. If you're OK with that, fine but I've got better things to do than fool around with oil maintenance.
Moreover, your argument that SynLube doesn't save money is not well considered. Yes, you can get cheap oil changes but you get cheap oil and a cheap filter. If you're willing to use products with that kind of quality, why are you even talking about SynLube in the first place? And the six oil changes you got for free cannot possibly be considered part of a relevant comparison. The only reasonable comparison is to match SynLube's cost over its rated life against what you would pay for the oil you favor now for the same number of miles. I have seen few cases where SynLube doesn't come out on top when all the relevant factors are properly considered.
And what about the environmental impact of all those oil changes? Most oil taken to the recycle center is never actually used again. All that really happens is that the oil is disposed of safely. In comparison, at 10 years, I drain the SynLube and send it back to the company for a credit towards the purchase of more SynLube. The old SynLube will be microfiltered and the additive package restored if necessary. Then it's good for another 150K miles, 3K engine hours, or 10 years. In the end, most cars will produce hundreds of quarts of used motor oil. My Ranger will have only five quarts of dino that was drained when I converted.
The bottom line is that you have a choice between SynLube that was designed to be the best oil, period, vs. other oils that have been designed to provide reliable service for an acceptable amount of time for the maximum possible profit.
BTW, sorry about your DYNO-BUTT.
First of all, I am not selling this oil and I have no concern whether you use SynLube or not. I have discussed my experiences and I will continue to do so. Whether you believe me or not is your choice.
I have been talking about this oil for years and I've learned that only a minute number of people will ever be willing to use SynLube. And "oil experts" almost certainly won't.
Second, I am not going to pay for your research by doing tests and paying for UOAs that will not benefit me one bit. I know SynLube works. I and others (like Jonny-B) have found out on a day by day basis. Will the oil you use duplicate what SynLube has done for me? No, it won't and the oil manufacturer would think you crazy to try.
And oil testing IS highly subjective. The readings you get are just the point of departure. You have to figure out what they mean. Oil tests usually raise as many or more questions than they answer. And here's something you can take to the bank. If I paid for a bunch of UOAs that came out with glorious results for SynLube, those same people who wanted them would find some way to dismiss the results.
Third, I know what I have with SynLube and my CM filter: absolute protection and maximum fuel efficiency for the next 6 plus years.
Every time you have your oil changed, you have to answer the same questions. Did they do the job right? Or did they have a "flub-up"? Did they really use a quality oil? Before SynLube, I went to the local Jiffy-Lube. The oil was dipensed from oil barrels that may or may not have had what they said was in them. I always wondered. If you're OK with that, fine but I've got better things to do than fool around with oil maintenance.
Moreover, your argument that SynLube doesn't save money is not well considered. Yes, you can get cheap oil changes but you get cheap oil and a cheap filter. If you're willing to use products with that kind of quality, why are you even talking about SynLube in the first place? And the six oil changes you got for free cannot possibly be considered part of a relevant comparison. The only reasonable comparison is to match SynLube's cost over its rated life against what you would pay for the oil you favor now for the same number of miles. I have seen few cases where SynLube doesn't come out on top when all the relevant factors are properly considered.
And what about the environmental impact of all those oil changes? Most oil taken to the recycle center is never actually used again. All that really happens is that the oil is disposed of safely. In comparison, at 10 years, I drain the SynLube and send it back to the company for a credit towards the purchase of more SynLube. The old SynLube will be microfiltered and the additive package restored if necessary. Then it's good for another 150K miles, 3K engine hours, or 10 years. In the end, most cars will produce hundreds of quarts of used motor oil. My Ranger will have only five quarts of dino that was drained when I converted.
The bottom line is that you have a choice between SynLube that was designed to be the best oil, period, vs. other oils that have been designed to provide reliable service for an acceptable amount of time for the maximum possible profit.
BTW, sorry about your DYNO-BUTT.
quote:Second, I am not going to pay for your research by doing tests and paying for UOAs that will not benefit me one bit. I know SynLube works.
T&N, you are wasting your time. These people KNOW they are right. No need for verification.
quote:Originally posted by synskeptic:
If SynLube is that remarkable it makes me wonder why one of the premier auto builders (especially one with low volumn production) are not using it in their cars. The people who buy that type of auto wouldn't care about the price per quart but would probably love the convenience and not having to have their oil changed.
Its like $30 a quart isnt it? That may be one reason, two would be they need engines to wear out eventually. If this oil could really last the lifetime of the car, how many companies would that put out of business?
I hope it would put out of business those who hurt the environment on purpose(3000mile OCI-advice). We don't need such companies.
I don't think there is a chance this will happen in the nesrest future, because most people are not willing to try something new, as long as what they have, is working satisfactory.
Besides, with this oil, you can do what the big oilcompanies have told you NOT to do for the last 50 years(drive more than 3000 mile on a OCI).
It is very interesting to see that most people think that oil hasn't improved a bit since the 50's.
Tempest and Jason(from BITOG?), you are just trying to bring the ideas from the "other board" over here.
These ideas can be boiled down to: The cheaper the better, Only dino works, WalMart is GO(O)D, 50 mile OCI is the best.
I don't think there is a chance this will happen in the nesrest future, because most people are not willing to try something new, as long as what they have, is working satisfactory.
Besides, with this oil, you can do what the big oilcompanies have told you NOT to do for the last 50 years(drive more than 3000 mile on a OCI).
It is very interesting to see that most people think that oil hasn't improved a bit since the 50's.
Tempest and Jason(from BITOG?), you are just trying to bring the ideas from the "other board" over here.
These ideas can be boiled down to: The cheaper the better, Only dino works, WalMart is GO(O)D, 50 mile OCI is the best.
quote:Originally posted by jonny-b:
I hope it would put out of business those who hurt the environment on purpose(3000mile OCI-advice). We don't need such companies.
I don't think there is a chance this will happen in the nesrest future, because most people are not willing to try something new, as long as what they have, is working satisfactory.
Besides, with this oil, you can do what the big oilcompanies have told you NOT to do for the last 50 years(drive more than 3000 mile on a OCI).
It is very interesting to see that most people think that oil hasn't improved a bit since the 50's.
Tempest and Jason(from BITOG?), you are just trying to bring the ideas from the "other board" over here.
These ideas can be boiled down to: The cheaper the better, Only dino works, WalMart is GO(O)D, 50 mile OCI is the best.
Not at all, I dont worry about the price I pay, thats why I have a case of Redline, and paid $6 a quart for the Motorcraft full synthetic for my truck. And no I dont subscribe to anyones ideas but my own, I was speaking realistically what the bean counters at an auto manufacturer would say to putting $150+ dollars worth of oil into every vehicle they make. How much could it cost to fill an F350 diesel, or the Dodge Cummins? I havent done it because I like working on my truck, I enjoy changing the oil. I join these sites to learn, not to push my ideas on what I think should be done or any particular oil.
Hi, Jason.
As you said, the auto manufacturer is a part of the problem. They want you to come back, and when they use ordinary oil, they are sure you will visit them soon. Besides, 150 bucks is a lot of money to pay, especially when the customer don't know that this could save him for a lot of time and money.
For most people, the extra quality of a better oil, is worth nothing. It has something to do with knowledge and experience.
If you have been driving a Lada(Russian car) all your life, you don't understand the need for a BMW.
I like to work on my cars too, but now I can use this time to do other things. Like helping my friends, when they are changing oil.
Of the ordinary oils, I considder Redline and Amsoil to be among the best ones.
As you said, the auto manufacturer is a part of the problem. They want you to come back, and when they use ordinary oil, they are sure you will visit them soon. Besides, 150 bucks is a lot of money to pay, especially when the customer don't know that this could save him for a lot of time and money.
For most people, the extra quality of a better oil, is worth nothing. It has something to do with knowledge and experience.
If you have been driving a Lada(Russian car) all your life, you don't understand the need for a BMW.
I like to work on my cars too, but now I can use this time to do other things. Like helping my friends, when they are changing oil.
Of the ordinary oils, I considder Redline and Amsoil to be among the best ones.
Ive looked hard at Synlube several times, but back then it was one of those things I couldnt imagine doing. I think I would do it now, but I have like 100 qts of oil in my house already that need to be used first.
