and remember, "The only measure of Engine Lubricant performance that any Automotive Engineer will recognize is the effect on emissions ..."
Because as long as the engine grenades AFTER the test routine, it's totally OK with everyone.
Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity
Ok, now I'll hang around a little longer... 
QUOTES FROM BIG BEAR.
I believe there is valid reason for you to reconsider. Did you somehow miss my post? I have had SynLube installed in my Ranger for over six years. Nothing has clogged up yet. And by now, if there were any truth to your claim, I think I'd have had to replace the engine. Of course you can choose to believe that I'm not being truthful but where's the motivation to defend this product if the engines I've installed SynLube in had sustained damage? If it had, I'd be on the other side screaming about what happened to my engine.
To date, oil consumption is nil, I pass my emissions tests easily, the plugs are clean, there's no smoke or deposits forming on the tailpipe. I get well above the EPA estimates for mileage. How can SynLube fail as badly as you expect it to and my engine perform as well as it does?
Consider this: If you search the web, and read the information by the lube manufacturers about their thin oils they will talk about the quality of their oils and they will talk about how long they last but I have not found one site where they say that engine wear is the same or less than the thicker oils. And that's because they can't.
With SynLube you don't have to compromise. And if you tried SynLube, you'd change your mind about it.
You have absolutely no basis for this yet. If you deny what SynLube says and claim they should offer proof of their claims then you should adopt the same standard and substantiate your own counterclaim. And that's simple enough to do. Buy a quart of the oil and have it analyzed by Terry Dyson. I e-mailed him about SynLube and he is genuinely interested in learning more about it. He isn't ready to conclude it's snake oil if I have interpreted his comments appropriately.quote:I believe this VOA will show us that Miro probably uses some oil from Wal-Mart for his basestock and then he puts his witches brew into it.
quote:I believe all of these additives in Synlube will just eventually clog up someone's engine and just lead to more wear.
I believe there is valid reason for you to reconsider. Did you somehow miss my post? I have had SynLube installed in my Ranger for over six years. Nothing has clogged up yet. And by now, if there were any truth to your claim, I think I'd have had to replace the engine. Of course you can choose to believe that I'm not being truthful but where's the motivation to defend this product if the engines I've installed SynLube in had sustained damage? If it had, I'd be on the other side screaming about what happened to my engine.
To date, oil consumption is nil, I pass my emissions tests easily, the plugs are clean, there's no smoke or deposits forming on the tailpipe. I get well above the EPA estimates for mileage. How can SynLube fail as badly as you expect it to and my engine perform as well as it does?
This isn't true at all. The thin oils are a compromise. Because today's engines have EFI and overhead cams AND because the OEMs still want to use conventional oils, they specify a thin oil because more wear occurs during a cold start than at any other time. They are willing to sacrifice a bit of wear when the engine is warm. This in no way means that SynLube won't work. I have used Synlube in three cars, my current Ranger and two Focus prior to it. None of them had the first problem using this lubricant. Sometimes, I go weeks between starts, even in winter but when I start the engine, there isn't a hint of noise that would indicate a dry lubrication condition and believe me there is no worse sound in the world. SynLube adheres better and the dry lubricants in colloid form are fully capable of protecting the engine alone until the oil begins to circulate.quote:I am sorry Synlube, but today's cars need thin oil, meaning a 5W-30, 5W-20, or a 0W-20. The days of thick oil's are far gone. The reason being is that many of todays engines are either single or dual OHC engines, you need the oil to travel from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the engine. This Synlube stuff might have been o.k. back in the 1950's.
Consider this: If you search the web, and read the information by the lube manufacturers about their thin oils they will talk about the quality of their oils and they will talk about how long they last but I have not found one site where they say that engine wear is the same or less than the thicker oils. And that's because they can't.
With SynLube you don't have to compromise. And if you tried SynLube, you'd change your mind about it.
Well a VOA should put this to rest once and for all, we hope. I would think the report will be honest, and revealing. I have a feeling Synlube's spin masters will quickly go to work if they don't like the report. OTOH if Synlube's claims are in fact the truth then sales should go through the roof. But I know quite a few people who still wouldn't use it even if it were free. Reason being the attacks made by the shills on Bitog. Tough job building bridges that have been destroyed.
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Consider this Houckster: As I pointed out earlier, you own synlube, so it is to be expected that you say what you do.
quote:Originally posted by ADFD1:
Well a UOA should put this to rest once and for all, we hope. I would think the report will be honest, and revealing. I have a feeling Synlube's spin masters will quickly go to work if they don't like the report. OTOH if Synlube's claims are in fact the truth then sales should go through the roof. But I know quite a few people who still wouldn't use it even if it were free. Reason being the attacks made by the shills on Bitog. Tough job building bridges that have been destroyed.
AD
Now you know that if it isn't done at Miro's recommended lab, or done by someone who doesn't use it, or if you don't use your real name and location, that any result is wrong.
The preceeding only applies of the result is unfavorable
If you buy a quart of SynLube and submit it to Terry Dyson for analysis, there won't be much room for spinning. He's an acknowledged expert on oil analysis and I believe he has corresponded with Miro about his oil. Let us know when you submit the sample since you would be inclined not to believe the results if we submitted it.quote:Well a UOA should put this to rest once and for all, we hope. I would think the report will be honest, and revealing. I have a feeling Synlube's spin masters will quickly go to work if they don't like the report. OTOH if Synlube's claims are in fact the truth then sales should go through the roof. But I know quite a few people who still wouldn't use it even if it were free. Reason being the attacks made by the shills on Bitog. Tough job building bridges that have been destroyed.
What do you mean I OWN SynLube? I'm a customer and nothing more. I live in Georgia. If you can't tell the difference between my style of writing and those of Miro Kefurt, you haven't been reading very closely.quote:Consider this Houckster: As I pointed out earlier, you own synlube, so it is to be expected that you say what you do.
Im willing to bring it at my workplace to get it analyze,but im not giving my credit card number to a site with no certification,verisign,trustwave?,At least put paypall as a payment method....
Heavier is better. Thicker is better. You can tell the viscosity of oil by feel (between your thumb and fore finger). “I’ve used straight 30 weight for years.” Motor oil viscosity is not that big a deal. Thicker motor oil is better for your engine and increases engine life. One must use SAE 20W-50 motor oil if the vehicle has over 100,000 miles on it. SAE 5W-20 is too thin to protect the engine. Synthetic SAE 5W-30 is thinner than conventional SAE 5W-30 motor oil. Straight weight oils (i.e., SAE 30) give better protection than multi-viscosity oils.
Fact: There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor oil. First, a gain in fuel economy can be achieved with lower viscosity oil. At cold temperatures and at start up, lower viscosity oil will reduce internal engine friction. About 10% of the engine's horsepower is lost to internal engine friction, resulting in a drop in fuel economy. Additionally, vehicle manufacturers are struggling to meet Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) requirements set by the government and avoid paying associated fines. Any fuel mileage improvement associated with a lubricant use would be good for them, and lighter viscosity grade motor oil will make a difference.
Second, thinner motor oil is essential for easy starting, particularly in cold weather, and for proper lubrication once the engine starts. Today's smaller engines have smaller clearances and tighter tolerances between moving parts, and there have been some instances where camshaft damage has occurred because of inadequate lubrication with higher viscosity grades in colder weather. Thinner oils, such as SAE 5W-30, will flow faster than heavier motor oils during start-up and initial engine operation and will help protect the engine from excessive wear. Multigrade oil will also offer the same high temperature protection as single grade motor oil. Always check your vehicle owner's manual to select the proper viscosity grade based on the expected temperature range. The viscosity grade(s) recommended by the vehicle manufacturer depend somewhat on engine design. Engine manufacturers have spent considerable time and expense experimenting with different viscosity grades and have indicated in the owner's manual the grades they feel will best protect the engine at specific temperatures. While one manufacturer's engine may require an SAE 10W-30, another manufacturer's engine may require an SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade. This is likely due to different tolerances within the engine or other engine design factors.
Houckster, I am sorry to say that you sound alot like Frank Miller over at auto-rx who never tested his product and made claims that were not true. If these thinner oil's out today did not protect as well as thicker oil's we would have engines seizing left and right.
I have seen a VOA on Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra and I base everything on my observations from using variuos oil's and oil additives.
Pennzoil Platinum is an awesome oil
Auto-Rx just does not work for me or anyone
MMO is a fantastic product
I can back up what I say with my observations and other people have followed my lead with great results, you cannot back up your statements with any kind of proof, since you have quoted me then I must have struck a nerve with you.
How about bringing some of these satisfied Synlube users on here so I can ask them some questions.
How about some Valvetrain Pics
A super thick oil like your Synlube might be o.k. for some sustained high RPM driving, but most of us do not drive like that.
Can you tell me what kind of oil you use for your basestock, can you show us pictures of the great big Synlube plant where your product is made, give us a You-Tube Video, I bet you won't do that.
You probably use some Shell Rotella 15W-40 which has a 40 Degree Celcius number close to your Synlube product, then you go out in your garage and mix the stuff up.
Don't feel bad, Miro, at least you personally mix your stuff up, I like that in you, it seems you personally mix your stuff into the base oil to make Synlube.
Frank Miller at arx has Havilland Products in Michigan ship and bottle auto-rx to him in Florida.
Miro, prove me WRONG with some You-Tube Video of the great Synlube Factory that makes this product, I doubt it, becuase I called you a few weeks ago and you had no Synlube, you told me that you needed to make a new batch, that had me thinking that this stuff is mixed up in your garage.
Fact: There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor oil. First, a gain in fuel economy can be achieved with lower viscosity oil. At cold temperatures and at start up, lower viscosity oil will reduce internal engine friction. About 10% of the engine's horsepower is lost to internal engine friction, resulting in a drop in fuel economy. Additionally, vehicle manufacturers are struggling to meet Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) requirements set by the government and avoid paying associated fines. Any fuel mileage improvement associated with a lubricant use would be good for them, and lighter viscosity grade motor oil will make a difference.
Second, thinner motor oil is essential for easy starting, particularly in cold weather, and for proper lubrication once the engine starts. Today's smaller engines have smaller clearances and tighter tolerances between moving parts, and there have been some instances where camshaft damage has occurred because of inadequate lubrication with higher viscosity grades in colder weather. Thinner oils, such as SAE 5W-30, will flow faster than heavier motor oils during start-up and initial engine operation and will help protect the engine from excessive wear. Multigrade oil will also offer the same high temperature protection as single grade motor oil. Always check your vehicle owner's manual to select the proper viscosity grade based on the expected temperature range. The viscosity grade(s) recommended by the vehicle manufacturer depend somewhat on engine design. Engine manufacturers have spent considerable time and expense experimenting with different viscosity grades and have indicated in the owner's manual the grades they feel will best protect the engine at specific temperatures. While one manufacturer's engine may require an SAE 10W-30, another manufacturer's engine may require an SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade. This is likely due to different tolerances within the engine or other engine design factors.
Houckster, I am sorry to say that you sound alot like Frank Miller over at auto-rx who never tested his product and made claims that were not true. If these thinner oil's out today did not protect as well as thicker oil's we would have engines seizing left and right.
I have seen a VOA on Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra and I base everything on my observations from using variuos oil's and oil additives.
Pennzoil Platinum is an awesome oil
Auto-Rx just does not work for me or anyone
MMO is a fantastic product
I can back up what I say with my observations and other people have followed my lead with great results, you cannot back up your statements with any kind of proof, since you have quoted me then I must have struck a nerve with you.
How about bringing some of these satisfied Synlube users on here so I can ask them some questions.
How about some Valvetrain Pics
A super thick oil like your Synlube might be o.k. for some sustained high RPM driving, but most of us do not drive like that.
Can you tell me what kind of oil you use for your basestock, can you show us pictures of the great big Synlube plant where your product is made, give us a You-Tube Video, I bet you won't do that.
You probably use some Shell Rotella 15W-40 which has a 40 Degree Celcius number close to your Synlube product, then you go out in your garage and mix the stuff up.
Don't feel bad, Miro, at least you personally mix your stuff up, I like that in you, it seems you personally mix your stuff into the base oil to make Synlube.
Frank Miller at arx has Havilland Products in Michigan ship and bottle auto-rx to him in Florida.
Miro, prove me WRONG with some You-Tube Video of the great Synlube Factory that makes this product, I doubt it, becuase I called you a few weeks ago and you had no Synlube, you told me that you needed to make a new batch, that had me thinking that this stuff is mixed up in your garage.
I will put my mileage up against any user with any other oil whether it be 0W20, 5W20 or whatever. There is no proof that these oil provide any improvement in milage other than in the lab and that by a very small amount not evident on the street.quote:Fact: There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor oil. First, a gain in fuel economy can be achieved with lower viscosity oil.
quote:Can you tell me what kind of oil you use for your basestock, can you show us pictures of the great big Synlube plant where your product is made, give us a You-Tube Video, I bet you won't do that.
You probably use some Shell Rotella 15W-40 which has a 40 Degree Celcius number close to your Synlube product, then you go out in your garage and mix the stuff up.
Don't feel bad, Miro, at least you personally mix your stuff up, I like that in you, it seems you personally mix your stuff into the base oil to make Synlube.
Obviously you consider me to be Miro Kefurt. If you do that's going to put an end to this exchange. I cannot answer for Miro. I can only testify to my own experience and opinions.
quote:Originally posted by Houckster:
What do you mean I OWN SynLube? I'm a customer and nothing more. I live in Georgia. If you can't tell the difference between my style of writing and those of Miro Kefurt, you haven't been reading very closely.
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Location: Reno, NV
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I read just fine old boy. Your profile from BITOG. Do read the line in red and get back to me.
quote:Originally posted by Trajan:quote:Originally posted by Houckster:
What do you mean I OWN SynLube? I'm a customer and nothing more. I live in Georgia. If you can't tell the difference between my style of writing and those of Miro Kefurt, you haven't been reading very closely.
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Member #: 939
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Total Posts: 9
Registered on: 01/28/03 08:00 PM
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I read just fine old boy. Your profile from BITOG. Do read the line in red and get back to me.
Trajan, you beat me too it, I was just about to post the same thing you did.
Miro or if you want to go by Houkster, will you answer my questions.
I posted this back on page 34 
Then Mirouckster went off on a fake poster rant.
Then Mirouckster went off on a fake poster rant.
Big bear you got a point,in my application,they recommended 5w20 since i see deep cold during the winter,-50 Celsius in not uncommon here .Im not brand loyal when it come to oil,if anyone could give me some lube with a better pour point i would jump on it.
Ford is a very popular brand here for fleet vehicle,just the site where i work own over 300 F150 and they doing extremely long oci.These truck are kept in the worst condition ,dirt road,low speed limit between 30 and 50 kmh ,they are mostly run 24/24 7 day a week and the driver beat these like they stole them.Still they survive,im yet to see a dead engine.These truck are kept for 3 year then sold,most of them are over 100k,wont say in the best shape...still they are working ,my point? ANY engine can last that long without heavy maintenance these day,will last 3 time longer if the maintenance is done properly .Why Miro is so afraid of any vehicle over 100k?
Ford is a very popular brand here for fleet vehicle,just the site where i work own over 300 F150 and they doing extremely long oci.These truck are kept in the worst condition ,dirt road,low speed limit between 30 and 50 kmh ,they are mostly run 24/24 7 day a week and the driver beat these like they stole them.Still they survive,im yet to see a dead engine.These truck are kept for 3 year then sold,most of them are over 100k,wont say in the best shape...still they are working ,my point? ANY engine can last that long without heavy maintenance these day,will last 3 time longer if the maintenance is done properly .Why Miro is so afraid of any vehicle over 100k?
At nearly 107,000 miles, my car runs pretty dang good. Starts first time. Consistently beats EPA ratings. Never failed an emission test. No blue smoke.
It uses proven oil. Gets changed at regular intervals. No stranger to MMO.
Yeah, a clunker. Sure.....
It uses proven oil. Gets changed at regular intervals. No stranger to MMO.
Yeah, a clunker. Sure.....
no offense guys, but i think we have to lock this thread and continue in the already formed new one. Useful text out of this thread can be copied, i will inform Mike to remove the offensive, offtopic and unrelated post in this thread. Lets keep it clean, professional and polite. This is one of the few websites where you can trust (most of) the info without being influenced by sales talk. The brand does not matter as long as specs are right IMHO
I do not know who was able to edit my profile on BITOG but I have corrected the information. I repeat, I do not live in Nevada, I live in Georgia. I do not own any part of SynLube and I am only a customer.
If you are going to continue to regard me as Miro Kefurt, I'll let you have the last word as I will see no possibility of any productive exchange.
If you are going to continue to regard me as Miro Kefurt, I'll let you have the last word as I will see no possibility of any productive exchange.
Wow someone at Bitog edited your profile to make you Miro? Yea OK. LOL this is just too funny.............
Wow too ......only admint and you can edit this....
......only admint and you can edit this....quote:Originally posted by Houckster:
I do not know who was able to edit my profile on BITOG but I have corrected the information. I repeat, I do not live in Nevada, I live in Georgia. I do not own any part of SynLube and I am only a customer.
If you are going to continue to regard me as Miro Kefurt, I'll let you have the last word as I will see no possibility of any productive exchange.
