Trajan it is also quite obvious you have no agenda. I enjoy reading thru your posts here, and find your testimony useful. You don't dive in head first selling product or knocking other compaines that make top rate products, in order to make a buck.
Carry on!
AD
Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity
Thanks!!
I kind of think this is one of those products you have to use constantly to get any lasting benefit.
And let's face it, $19.99 is a bit much.
But in my case, a slight ping I had is gone. And the engine is smoother. Feels that way anyway.
It's all anecdotal, as I don't have sound recordings, or the kind of data I used to keep, (avg speed/mpg, tire pressure, whatever else Scangauge II gives me.).
If anyone wants to try it for themselves, i'd say wait for the next sale.
Obligatory synlube shot:
Still, it's cheaper than swindlelube, and carries more approvals.
I kind of think this is one of those products you have to use constantly to get any lasting benefit.
And let's face it, $19.99 is a bit much.
But in my case, a slight ping I had is gone. And the engine is smoother. Feels that way anyway.
It's all anecdotal, as I don't have sound recordings, or the kind of data I used to keep, (avg speed/mpg, tire pressure, whatever else Scangauge II gives me.).
If anyone wants to try it for themselves, i'd say wait for the next sale.
Obligatory synlube shot:
Still, it's cheaper than swindlelube, and carries more approvals.
Do they have a money back guarantee? If they do for that price if I didn't notice any improvements they'd get it back. One of the better tests of a company is how they handle their warranty claims when/if they guarantee satisfaction. I know of a few companies that go to great lengths not to back up their warranties and shift blame instead. They'll remain nameless.
AD
AD
The last several posts are sooooo cordial..........a bunch of men 
slobbering all over each other......How nice!!!!!
Trajan....
Trajan(the shooter--not)......you couldn't hit the proverbial broad side of a barn door if that's your idea of...'shot'.
slobbering all over each other......How nice!!!!!Trajan....
quote:Obligatory synlube shot:
Trajan(the shooter--not)......you couldn't hit the proverbial broad side of a barn door if that's your idea of...'shot'.
quote:Originally posted by ADFD1:
Do they have a money back guarantee? If they do for that price if I didn't notice any improvements they'd get it back. One of the better tests of a company is how they handle their warranty claims when/if they guarantee satisfaction. I know of a few companies that go to great lengths not to back up their warranties and shift blame instead. They'll remain nameless.
AD
No guarantee that I know of.
Use at your own risk? Let the buyer beware? I'm back to the passing lane again. But still reading about it.
AD
AD
Maybe there is something at their site. I didn't look.
For $20/bottle there should be a $$ back guarantee.
AD
AD
[[QUOTE]Originally posted by ADFD1:
I know of a few companies that go to great lengths not to back up their warranties and shift blame instead. They'll remain nameless.
----------------------------------------------
Show me a warranty that wasn't written by a 'team' of lawyers.
Show me a warranty that opens up the company to any one willing to 'game' the company.
THEY ALL HAVE WELL WRITTEN WARRANTIES.........PEROID!
I have never been told.........."sir,you voided your warranty". I usually never have to use a warranty in the first place........including appliances. I almost never purchase warranty insurance,except once or twice really cheap,and still never used the warranty.
Who do you know..with proof,that blew up something using a particlar oil or additive that was then denied coverage because of the additive?
I know of a few companies that go to great lengths not to back up their warranties and shift blame instead. They'll remain nameless.
----------------------------------------------
Show me a warranty that wasn't written by a 'team' of lawyers.
Show me a warranty that opens up the company to any one willing to 'game' the company.
THEY ALL HAVE WELL WRITTEN WARRANTIES.........PEROID!
I have never been told.........."sir,you voided your warranty". I usually never have to use a warranty in the first place........including appliances. I almost never purchase warranty insurance,except once or twice really cheap,and still never used the warranty.
Who do you know..with proof,that blew up something using a particlar oil or additive that was then denied coverage because of the additive?
They'll remain nameless Kirk. A hint one of them is for cleaning engines. It has nothing to do with the major oil companies.
Does your company offer a warranty on Synlube? A handshake and your buddies word and the customer is GTG for the lifetime of his vehicle. Then he dumps the oil mails it back and gets his money back! Wow, only in American. Besides in your perfect world you don't need a warranty, not even on an appliance. Just buy it plug it in and if it doesn't work fresh out of the box you'll just buy another one! Good on you sir!
You guys @ Synlube probably spend more cash on the legal aspects of protecting your asses than delivering a quality product.
AD
Does your company offer a warranty on Synlube? A handshake and your buddies word and the customer is GTG for the lifetime of his vehicle. Then he dumps the oil mails it back and gets his money back! Wow, only in American. Besides in your perfect world you don't need a warranty, not even on an appliance. Just buy it plug it in and if it doesn't work fresh out of the box you'll just buy another one! Good on you sir!
You guys @ Synlube probably spend more cash on the legal aspects of protecting your asses than delivering a quality product.
AD
quote:Originally posted by ADFD1:
Does your company offer a warranty on Synlube? A handshake and your buddies word and the customer is GTG for the lifetime of his vehicle. Then he dumps the oil mails it back and gets his money back! Wow, only in American. Besides in your perfect world you don't need a warranty, not even on an appliance. Just buy it plug it in and if it doesn't work fresh out of the box you'll just buy another one! Good on you sir!
AD
Oh come on. Kirk's been using Synlube on all his stuff for 10 years!
If Synlube is no good, why would he still be using it?
Comment on that, please.
Probably because there's a little something in it for him. Keep in mind he likes to toss stones into a still pond, and woke me up. This thread was going just fine, read back you'll see where he tossed the crap into it.
Here's a question for you, if the product is as good as you believe it to be, why are you waiting for your warranty to expire? Wouldn't you want the very best oil in that engine from day one? Just curious, I could never understand reading this boards how people will defend a product yet fear using it when they have a warranty.
BTW I have no bones to pick with you, I'm just asking a ? that always facinated me.
AD
Here's a question for you, if the product is as good as you believe it to be, why are you waiting for your warranty to expire? Wouldn't you want the very best oil in that engine from day one? Just curious, I could never understand reading this boards how people will defend a product yet fear using it when they have a warranty.
BTW I have no bones to pick with you, I'm just asking a ? that always facinated me.
AD
quote:Originally posted by ADFD1:
Besides in your perfect world you don't need a warranty, not even on an appliance. Just buy it plug it in and if it doesn't work fresh out of the box you'll just buy another one! Good on you sir!
AD
Several years ago in my "not so perfect world" I purchased a Maytag washing machine for 350...discounted from 500 with free delivery..
The extended warranty through HD was only 45 buck for a total of 4 years. Guess what?.......the machine broke down in just under 5 years, and yes...........I had to buy a new washer--AGAIN(not maytag) due to being out of warranty. That was one of the few times I got bit by something like that being just out of warranty.
At present, I have a lifetime warranty on my Jeep bumper-to-bumper,and I am not worried about warranty issues... as long as the maintenance section in my owners manual is 'filled out'........my warranty is good as per Jeep. Usually when something breaks it's typically electronic(very expensive),and/or the transmission needs a rebuild. I have never needed engine work outside of a stretched timing chain many years ago on a used car. Only rebuilt one transmission...on a used car. Transmission flushes almost assures 175-200k. I am thinking about flushing the mopar stuff at 25k and installing..........well,take a guess.
In the past,and present,warranties are sometimes denied coverage due to sludge.... with receipts. I have zero sludge........so that can't ever be an issue.
I will admit that an antifreeze leak into the engine oil will lead to sludge that has led to warranties being denied even though it was an obvious mfg defect. This was discussed on on BITOG when someone was denied using the stuff Tim sells........even though the coolant leak was the culprit....but the 'sludge' clause in the warranty allowed the dealer/mfg to weasel out of any claim.
I would have flushed the engine--TWICE,installed clean oil,and then gone in for service. Also, that person never checked under the hood much......well duh...he never noticed the leak until way too late! I pop the hood at least once weakly and pull the dip stick,etc...so I am aware of what's going on,if anything,and therefore, totally....CONFIDENT!
And yet, post after post attacking those who question synlube.
A quote from the locked synlube thread: "Personally, I think the product has merit, though, I have not used it."
Said thread is full of attacks from one who claims it has merit. Who attacks anyone who questions it, yet uses said questions to decide not to use it.
A quote from the locked synlube thread: "Personally, I think the product has merit, though, I have not used it."
Said thread is full of attacks from one who claims it has merit. Who attacks anyone who questions it, yet uses said questions to decide not to use it.
quote:Originally posted by ADFD1:
For $20/bottle there should be a $$ back guarantee.
AD
I just saw this at the other place:
Customer Service: 800-382-1858 or email: cs4@zMAX.com
We are dedicated to making your purchasing experience as pleasant as possible. If you have any questions, comments, or other concerns, please use the appropriate number below.
Technical Questions: 888-645-1101 or email: tq4@zMAX.com
We are available for any questions concerning the use of our product or specific vehicle applications.
CustomNote: for refunds under our money back guarantee, please call customer service number 800-382-1858.er Service: 800-382-1858 or email: cs4@zMAX.com
To Order By Phone: 800-382-1858
United States and its territories
Canada and all other international orders
Call 800-382-1858 or email: int4@zMAX.com
Cool, takes the sting out of the price if it doesn't work.
AD
AD
There's also a 4 page limited guarantee that comes with the box. Usual caveats that concern what is/isn't covered in the engine/fuel system.
(Next time you're in the store, open the box and take a look at it. Cut off is at 150,000 original miles.)
(Next time you're in the store, open the box and take a look at it. Cut off is at 150,000 original miles.)
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Trajan:
There's also a 4 page limited guarantee that comes with the box. Usual caveats that concern what is/isn't covered in the engine/fuel system.
So now........the operative word is..... "usual caveats"......when you're in favor of a certain product. Otherwise,everything else is simply a scam because those 'other' warranties are weasel worded by lawyers to avoid paying any claims.
Newsflash..........all warranties have caveats!
There's also a 4 page limited guarantee that comes with the box. Usual caveats that concern what is/isn't covered in the engine/fuel system.
So now........the operative word is..... "usual caveats"......when you're in favor of a certain product. Otherwise,everything else is simply a scam because those 'other' warranties are weasel worded by lawyers to avoid paying any claims.
Newsflash..........all warranties have caveats!
Has the formula changed any?
AD
AD
Has not changed in decades. Its been around for a long time.
quote:Originally posted by Trajan:
There's also a 4 page limited guarantee that comes with the box. Usual caveats that concern what is/isn't covered in the engine/fuel system.
quote:quoted by Capt. Kirk:
So now........the operative word is..... "usual caveats"......when you're in favor of a certain product. Otherwise,everything else is simply a scam because those 'other' warranties are weasel worded by lawyers to avoid paying any claims.
Newsflash..........all warranties have caveats!
How does that saying go, Capt. Kirk, about "a fool and his money?"
My advice would be to keep using Synlube--as you have done in all of your vehicles for more than ten years--and not add any Zmax.
If Synlube could have been inproved, Miro would have done it.
Save your money!
Btw, is it true that when I hit 500 posts, Noria will send me a 45 gallon drum of lighter fluid?
Just wondering...
Just wondering...
Here it is..........z-max improved...I think???? 
http://www.maxaudio.com.my/ima.../ZmaxMagnetic_1c.jpg
Notice the little "molecules" in this photo as well.
http://www.maxaudio.com.my/ima.../ZmaxMagnetic_1c.jpg
Notice the little "molecules" in this photo as well.
Well worth the read.
Smiled when I got to this part: You should try to stay away from the wider spreads like 15W-50, 20W-50 and especially the 5W-50.
Smiled when I got to this part: You should try to stay away from the wider spreads like 15W-50, 20W-50 and especially the 5W-50.
quote:Originally posted by Trajan:
Well worth the read.
Smiled when I got to this part: You should try to stay away from the wider spreads like 15W-50, 20W-50 and especially the 5W-50.
I smile too,as this applies to group III,and especially group II oils.
Remember,the high end mustang and many others takes 5w-50 right from the factory,and with every oil change thereafter....and that is normally a group III oil.
I once ran amsoil 20w-50 heavey duty in an 86 regal 5.0 that had 150k on the engine,and over 8k on the now black oil..........in winter with several cold starts that were 0 f,and no issues,not even a single tick. This regal would tick on occasion in the morning during summer using M1 once the oil reached 2k which an oil change or CD2 would fix for a while. Car was sold running better than ever,and never any morning ticking with 190k on the clock......using nothing but the 20-50.
As usual,I will always do the research,and then make up my own mind based on facts. My Jeep that calls for 5w-20 is running with 5w-50......and all is good!
quote:Originally posted by Captain Kirk:quote:Originally posted by ADFD1:
Besides in your perfect world you don't need a warranty, not even on an appliance. Just buy it plug it in and if it doesn't work fresh out of the box you'll just buy another one! Good on you sir!
AD
Several years ago in my "not so perfect world" I purchased a Maytag washing machine for 350...discounted from 500 with free delivery..
The extended warranty through HD was only 45 buck for a total of 4 years. Guess what?.......the machine broke down in just under 5 years, and yes...........I had to buy a new washer--AGAIN(not maytag) due to being out of warranty. That was one of the few times I got bit by something like that being just out of warranty.
At present, I have a lifetime warranty on my Jeep bumper-to-bumper,and I am not worried about warranty issues... as long as the maintenance section in my owners manual is 'filled out'........my warranty is good as per Jeep. Usually when something breaks it's typically electronic(very expensive),and/or the transmission needs a rebuild. I have never needed engine work outside of a stretched timing chain many years ago on a used car. Only rebuilt one transmission...on a used car. Transmission flushes almost assures 175-200k. I am thinking about flushing the mopar stuff at 25k and installing..........well,take a guess.
In the past,and present,warranties are sometimes denied coverage due to sludge.... with receipts. I have zero sludge........so that can't ever be an issue.
I will admit that an antifreeze leak into the engine oil will lead to sludge that has led to warranties being denied even though it was an obvious mfg defect. This was discussed on on BITOG when someone was denied using the stuff Tim sells........even though the coolant leak was the culprit....but the 'sludge' clause in the warranty allowed the dealer/mfg to weasel out of any claim.
I would have flushed the engine--TWICE,installed clean oil,and then gone in for service. Also, that person never checked under the hood much......well duh...he never noticed the leak until way too late! I pop the hood at least once weakly and pull the dip stick,etc...so I am aware of what's going on,if anything,and therefore, totally....CONFIDENT!
I guess you might be needing some bumper guides if ever you have a problem with regards to your warranty issues and stuff. But if not, try to settle for what you can have. Hope all will be well though.
I got test data from zMax.
Compared the results to the ASTM specs.
My notes were cleaned into oblivion, they'll turn up one day. Meanwhile a synopsis and some questions.
In all but one test, the results achieved were within the error band of the method. The published zMax value was always higher, but in the error band.
conclusion: Not valid data
I asked specifically why no tests were done on parts from engines.
Answer, they didn't fit in the SEM.
My response. Got a saw?
I also noted that they did 2 sets of tests.
1- straight oil
2- oil w zmax in it.
Note: The ZMax is a modified thin oil, as best as I remember. some proprietary process is used to turn some sort of base stock onto ZMax.
I wonder why they did not also test a 3rd combo? Oil with the unmodified base stock added.
They put a lot of stock in the penetration of ZMax. Might that penetration advantage be better quantified by comparing it to oil with the base sock added vice just to oil?
Then we would know the true"r" advantage of the ZMax process.
In short, I see nothing convincing in the data.
Compared the results to the ASTM specs.
My notes were cleaned into oblivion, they'll turn up one day. Meanwhile a synopsis and some questions.
In all but one test, the results achieved were within the error band of the method. The published zMax value was always higher, but in the error band.
conclusion: Not valid data
I asked specifically why no tests were done on parts from engines.
Answer, they didn't fit in the SEM.
My response. Got a saw?
I also noted that they did 2 sets of tests.
1- straight oil
2- oil w zmax in it.
Note: The ZMax is a modified thin oil, as best as I remember. some proprietary process is used to turn some sort of base stock onto ZMax.
I wonder why they did not also test a 3rd combo? Oil with the unmodified base stock added.
They put a lot of stock in the penetration of ZMax. Might that penetration advantage be better quantified by comparing it to oil with the base sock added vice just to oil?
Then we would know the true"r" advantage of the ZMax process.
In short, I see nothing convincing in the data.
When i called there office they said it was a fine oil and Ether not for high mile eng with 100,000 or more in there paper work in box.Anybody can get aproved with $$$$$$$$$$.
Thanks Robert, was waiting for your reply.
I really don't have much in the way of comment regarding Zmax in particular, but in general I don't see an actual need for the product, or similar products, in the first place.
I guess the short answer is I don't understand what problem these products are trying to address. I don't have any issues with engine reliability or longevity with regular oil and filter changes. a little attention to cooling, not being afraid to pop the hood every once in a while and having a poke around, and a habit of always starting the engine with everything (A/C, heater, radio, etc) "off" and listening to the motor for the first few minutes before adding the noisemakers.
I see guys seemingly worried about relatively new engines; I don't have much to say there since aside from my motorcycle I've never owned one in that condition.
But I will say that I always buy used vehicles, and I've never lost an engine (total price paid for 5 used trucks + 1 car: $6350; HD about $8500 invested; Miata $2000 and PT Cruiser $3200). I use 0W-xx semi-synthetic or synthetic **, change oil and filter once a year, and leave it at that as far as worrying about the oil goes. I put about 6~10,000 miles annually on my daily driver; the lower figure is due to my work which results in my vehicles sitting for 3 months unused at least once a year. That is not necessarily good for an engine, so I wouldn't call it light duty.
I use the 0W-multigrade because my vehicles experience cold starts at air temps up to and below -40 every year. (Note: Wind Chill has nothing to do with engine starts; air temperature only figures cited). The coldest start was @ -46C (-51F) with the GMC from a storage lot in the Arctic, no block heater help available. That is severe service in anyone's book.
I normally don't have access to electricity where I park, so block heaters are rarely used. I expect the vehicle to start every time, regardless of the weather. I don't use dual batteries or any special starting aids, but trust me your vehicle needs to be in good working condition or you're not going to be able to start it.
Summer temps range up to +40 air (105F). I run the same oil year-round.
I actually own three licensed vehicles right now, normally I previously just ran a truck (1/2 or 3/4 ton). I've switched to running a car and truck as a daily driver for fuel consumption reasons two years ago.
My current truck was bought with 230,000 km (143,000 miles) just recently. It replaced a 77 GMC 350/T400 that I bought with 186,000 miles and ran for 8 years. It has transmission issues but the engine will fire right up this second, currently with 265,000 miles on the clock. It uses no oil to speak of, perhaps l quart per year. I've had slightly better gas mileage from similar 70's GMCs but this one was adequate at 20 hwy and 12 city (per US gallon), and was consistent over the time I owned the truck.
I have a PT Cruiser I bought with 175,000 km (109,000 mi) and a 20 year old Miata that has 275,000 km currently (171,000 mi). The Miata regularly sees shifts at 72~7500 RPM and occasional sustained high RPM operation (up to 3 hours).
I expect all these vehicles to last many more years; I've always bought used, and always wore out the vehicle itself rather than the engine. I have never lost an engine in a vehicle in my life, and I get good life from them: six used vehicles over a 27 year span (one was burnt by a pyro who was torching cars and trucks around town so only ran it for 2 years). I've never failed to pass a vehicle inspection save for minor issues (broken parking brake line; licence plate lamp out, that kind of thing; you get a pass if you show the necessary repair was done within 30 days).
The motor is in my opinion the most reliable part of a car or truck.
So, I don't see exactly what people are trying to achieve with these additives. It seems like a solution in search of a problem to me.
The local Dodge Store just ran an ad with a guy who's on his third RAM Diesel 1-ton. Just traded his old one ... something like a 2005 model ... with over 1 million km on the clock, for a showroom-stock '12 model. His previous truck had 900,000 on it; he sold it to a buddy rather than trade it in. Regular factory fill oil and filter at the suggested intervals.
Naturally this is all anecdotal evidence, so grab your box of salt, but I do have to say that anecdotal evidence is a primary marketing tool of the additive companies, so I say "apples vs apples".
** Esso ArticLube 0W-30 Semi-Synthetic 1985~1991
PetroCanada 0W-30 Semi-Synthetic 1991~1996
Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic 1996-present
If I didn't need the 0W oil for winter starts, I'd probably use different oil.
The Miata gets 10W-30 because it doesn't see winter use.
The bike started off with straight 50-weight (factory recommended viscosity) AeroShell W100 (AD) because I got a 20-litre pail for free, now it uses 20W-50 motorcycle conventional/synthetic depending on what is on the shelf at the time for a reasonable price.
After a rebuild, intervals were 50 miles, 500 miles, then 2000 miles (AeroShell; aviation AD oil is non-detergent) now 3000 miles (actual motorcycle oil) with a change in the spring or fall depending on mileage since last change.
I really don't have much in the way of comment regarding Zmax in particular, but in general I don't see an actual need for the product, or similar products, in the first place.
I guess the short answer is I don't understand what problem these products are trying to address. I don't have any issues with engine reliability or longevity with regular oil and filter changes. a little attention to cooling, not being afraid to pop the hood every once in a while and having a poke around, and a habit of always starting the engine with everything (A/C, heater, radio, etc) "off" and listening to the motor for the first few minutes before adding the noisemakers.
I see guys seemingly worried about relatively new engines; I don't have much to say there since aside from my motorcycle I've never owned one in that condition.
But I will say that I always buy used vehicles, and I've never lost an engine (total price paid for 5 used trucks + 1 car: $6350; HD about $8500 invested; Miata $2000 and PT Cruiser $3200). I use 0W-xx semi-synthetic or synthetic **, change oil and filter once a year, and leave it at that as far as worrying about the oil goes. I put about 6~10,000 miles annually on my daily driver; the lower figure is due to my work which results in my vehicles sitting for 3 months unused at least once a year. That is not necessarily good for an engine, so I wouldn't call it light duty.
I use the 0W-multigrade because my vehicles experience cold starts at air temps up to and below -40 every year. (Note: Wind Chill has nothing to do with engine starts; air temperature only figures cited). The coldest start was @ -46C (-51F) with the GMC from a storage lot in the Arctic, no block heater help available. That is severe service in anyone's book.
I normally don't have access to electricity where I park, so block heaters are rarely used. I expect the vehicle to start every time, regardless of the weather. I don't use dual batteries or any special starting aids, but trust me your vehicle needs to be in good working condition or you're not going to be able to start it.
Summer temps range up to +40 air (105F). I run the same oil year-round.
I actually own three licensed vehicles right now, normally I previously just ran a truck (1/2 or 3/4 ton). I've switched to running a car and truck as a daily driver for fuel consumption reasons two years ago.
My current truck was bought with 230,000 km (143,000 miles) just recently. It replaced a 77 GMC 350/T400 that I bought with 186,000 miles and ran for 8 years. It has transmission issues but the engine will fire right up this second, currently with 265,000 miles on the clock. It uses no oil to speak of, perhaps l quart per year. I've had slightly better gas mileage from similar 70's GMCs but this one was adequate at 20 hwy and 12 city (per US gallon), and was consistent over the time I owned the truck.
I have a PT Cruiser I bought with 175,000 km (109,000 mi) and a 20 year old Miata that has 275,000 km currently (171,000 mi). The Miata regularly sees shifts at 72~7500 RPM and occasional sustained high RPM operation (up to 3 hours).
I expect all these vehicles to last many more years; I've always bought used, and always wore out the vehicle itself rather than the engine. I have never lost an engine in a vehicle in my life, and I get good life from them: six used vehicles over a 27 year span (one was burnt by a pyro who was torching cars and trucks around town so only ran it for 2 years). I've never failed to pass a vehicle inspection save for minor issues (broken parking brake line; licence plate lamp out, that kind of thing; you get a pass if you show the necessary repair was done within 30 days).
The motor is in my opinion the most reliable part of a car or truck.
So, I don't see exactly what people are trying to achieve with these additives. It seems like a solution in search of a problem to me.
The local Dodge Store just ran an ad with a guy who's on his third RAM Diesel 1-ton. Just traded his old one ... something like a 2005 model ... with over 1 million km on the clock, for a showroom-stock '12 model. His previous truck had 900,000 on it; he sold it to a buddy rather than trade it in. Regular factory fill oil and filter at the suggested intervals.
Naturally this is all anecdotal evidence, so grab your box of salt, but I do have to say that anecdotal evidence is a primary marketing tool of the additive companies, so I say "apples vs apples".
** Esso ArticLube 0W-30 Semi-Synthetic 1985~1991
PetroCanada 0W-30 Semi-Synthetic 1991~1996
Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic 1996-present
If I didn't need the 0W oil for winter starts, I'd probably use different oil.
The Miata gets 10W-30 because it doesn't see winter use.
The bike started off with straight 50-weight (factory recommended viscosity) AeroShell W100 (AD) because I got a 20-litre pail for free, now it uses 20W-50 motorcycle conventional/synthetic depending on what is on the shelf at the time for a reasonable price.
After a rebuild, intervals were 50 miles, 500 miles, then 2000 miles (AeroShell; aviation AD oil is non-detergent) now 3000 miles (actual motorcycle oil) with a change in the spring or fall depending on mileage since last change.
