DEXOS VS GF-5 LUBE STANDARD

quote:

Originally posted by Trajan:
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.

Trojan....why do yoouuuuu keep on bringing up synlube,and no one else does???? However the person I care most about using the oil you like to bring up so much..... is.....me....myself.......and I. Your loss!

I already explained why no sludge in a mower engine waaaayyyy back.......NO emission controls,runs hot and burns off moisture,no short trips,incomplete warmups etc.

However,the fact that an air cooled mower engine runs hot has been known to cause issues such as, hot sludging/coking,especially during long runs,and that's why I run synthetic in all my engines period.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/foru...owflat&Number=486820


Another reason why I put synthetic in all my small equipment,and use several fuel additive products at once. Never have any issues,including the first start in spring.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25936782/

http://www.ehow.com/how_601904...stratton-engine.html

Even Porshe acknowleges that todays oils are lacking in protection.. Just look

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine, including newer water-cooled ones. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending non-approved motorcycle or racing oils, or the addition of oil supplements at every oil change, for their higher levels of protection. On newer water-cooled engines where Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended, a simple change to an oil with CJ-4 rating or preferably an oil with SL or CI-4 rating as well as a viscosity of 5w40 rather than 0w40 are two changes that can be done in addition to more frequent oil changes to ensure longevity of newer engines.


The whole link......explain this trajen.........

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave

You tow with the titan,spend 3 grand a year on fuel, don't use synthetic,live in florida, and tow in all that heat!

I am surprised to see that. Your choice,your vehicle,do what you want.

And it is obvious you don't read all the way through everyone's posts, before posting your quips. I am running Pennzoil Platinum in both my Nissans right now. Last time I checked it was a PAO synthetic Grp III. I am considering going back to conventional, once I get through my stash of Platinum (about 3 more changes). Nissan engineers recommend conventional oil and I figure they know more than I do about what to run in the engine they designed.

I have not made the decision yet.

I would be more worried about my engine being damaged by ethanol in the fuel, over what oil I use. Mainly on the Altima as it is not flex capable. Ethanol eats and corrodes O rings, gaskets, injector components, fuel pumps, etc. that is going to be the engine killer, not so much as lubricants.

Dave

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05...t/05ethanol.html?hpw

Found this at a bimmer forum: http://www.pure-gas.org/

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510

Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was, showed no sludge, and dino/mineral oil was just fine and was all the mower ever saw. That apparently wasn't truth at all. BIG LIE IN FACT.

What in the world is this all about then??? This shows a different """story"""

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


When connecting the Dots of all your story telling.................it's very disturbing indeed why someone would lie like that and make up all those stories and twist/distort/fabricate whatever information existed or not, Just to avoid admitting synthetic oil is better???

Talk about issues. Get back on your meds....NOW SIR!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine.

What in the world is this all about then???

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424

You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.

quote:

Originally posted by Trajan:

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine. That wasn't exactly the whole true story....was it????

What in the world is this very different story all about then??? Dave,you are not being very candid...are you??

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424

You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.

You guys have some strange issues now that I have blown the lid off whatever agenda you have.

I have always been a totally straight shooter......just the facts.

The facts aren't looking to good revealing all of Dave's story telling and now outright lies and fabrication.

WOW..........THE TRUTH FINALLY COMES OUT!!!

Dave..........what gives???

Flush out your mower engine with chemicals(MMO,etc).. and.......then post pictures showing how clean it is saying you used nothing but cheap/dino/mineral oil as if the oil kept it clean all along by itself....just to give the false impression using cheap oil works fine,instead of synthetic. That's just nuts.

Dave(trajen),your previous posts/lies now proves all along what I was talking about regarding sludge being caused from cheap oil that you tried to hide all this time, and why would you do that.!!

It looks to me.......like..........Trajen=Deltona_Dave!!!

Come up with an explaination for why PYB meets GF-5 even though it's dino?

Really is a shame that you can't comprehend that anyone would disagree with you.

Must be congenital. Following your logic, you, annie, inhaliburton, (surprised neither have stuck their useless beaks in.), and miro are one and the same.

there is a report button...Mike can probably check this

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Kirk:

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510

Did you not read that I was using Mobil 1 before switching to Pennzoil Platinum? Last I heard, Mobil 1 was a synthetic oil... I started using Platinum due to the fact that I was given several cases of it. Mobil 1 made my top end a little noisy. Yes, the coolant temp went down a little, not much with platinum.

No, I am not Trajan/nuke. I am me.

About the Mower. Yes, in my first post, I had a little varnish on the dipstick, and was concerned that i was getting some sludge. I had not pulled the valve covers off at that time. I went with some of the board posters suggestions to try a motorcraft filter and maybe a different HDEO. I also asked if I should go with a synthetic oil or use an additive. At least over there, I can ask a question and do not get bashed over it.

I never used an engine flush, nor a synthetic oil, except for a top-off one time. The Delvac 1300 that is in it now seems to have cleaned the little bit of varnish that was there to a point. It still uses oil, not as much, but still have to top off about every 8 hours of use. BTW, there still is some bits of varnish on the rocker nuts, just not visible in the pics. The B&S engine is not spotless, but clean enough. I still need to pull the heads and de-carbon the pistons/combustion chambers.

You are the one that states you use Synlube in your vehicles. Does it meet Motorcraft and Daimler Chrysler specs? Hope it does if you need power train warranty claims.

You can can discredit me, that's fine. I am human, I make mistakes and forget things (I am getting old).

I still work on over 250 CVPI's for the Sheriff's Office, that are assigned to patrol division. They only see conventional oil changes every 5K. After 5 years of service and an average of 100K on the Odo, the engine camshafts are still clean.

Dave. Not Trajan or anyone else.

Also,
No where did I say that Conventional was better than Synthetic. My whole point is that whatever oil one chooses to use will work fine, as long as it meets/exceeds what the manufacturer recommends and is changed at proper intervals.

Most oil related problems are due to the fact that owners use improper oil, or do not change when recommended.

The point of this topic was about GF-5 standard. Conventionals will be able to meet that standard.

Is that wrong?

Bash away Kirk.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by .:[EM]:.:
there is a report button...Mike can probably check this

Which I've used time and again, and these nonsense multi account allegations continue.

Does the owners manual say anything about a tow package?

Probably the best place to find out would be Nissan Titan forums.

I would imagine that towing would fall under severe service anyway?

I've never owned a truck, so my knowledge is limited to being the towee.

Trajan,
You could always get a small utility trailer. Harbor Freight has some small collapsible ones for about $200. DOT approved and about 4x8 (the size of a standard sheet of plywood). You would just have to buy a 3/4" sheet of PT ply for the flooring. It will only hold about 900-1000 lbs, but can be handy. I have one, but when it is empty, tends to bounce around.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Trajan,
You could always get a small utility trailer. Harbor Freight has some small collapsible ones for about $200. DOT approved and about 4x8 (the size of a standard sheet of plywood). You would just have to buy a 3/4" sheet of PT ply for the flooring. It will only hold about 900-1000 lbs, but can be handy. I have one, but when it is empty, tends to bounce around.

Dave

Not a bad idea, but it would take some fabricating on my end for a hitch. It would have to go under the rear cover.

I've seen it on a Z3. I've read you can get one for a 3, don't know about the 4.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/foru...207&highlight=towing

quote:

The point of this topic was about GF-5 standard. Conventionals will be able to meet that standard.

Dave....define conventional oil. Do you mean group II ??

I doubt very much that conventional oil will meet the GF-5 spec without the use of synthetic oil in the mix. Even if some product does manage to arrive that is totally conventional but claims to meet the GF-5 standard,I think it will have issues compared to a premium group III,or my preference.....Group IV. My concern with conventional oil is.. too high noack volatility,oil film sheering,oxidation,oil film strength too weak,and so forth.

When dexos hits,it will put GF-5 at the bottom. The pecking order will be something like this.....GF-5(the lowest minimal standard).......DEXOS(GROUP III)(middle standard).....and the best being....Group IV(the highest standard) as usual.

Your car,your engine,your investment,your money,your choice.

Kirk

Kirk, what oil meets IV? I am presuming Mobil-1 but they keep it a "secret" and some have mentioned it is a grp III.

GF-5 can be met with conventional, but dexos will require grp III pao, from what I can interpret.

I am still running a grp III (penz. platinum) for a while. I am considering, but not committed to grp II (PYB).

I am not here to bash, argue, belittle, or smackdown anyone. I would like to have a civil discussion with anyone. I treat and talk to people the same way they talk to me.

Fair Shake?

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Kirk, what oil meets IV? I am presuming Mobil-1 but they keep it a "secret" and some have mentioned it is a grp III.

GF-5 can be met with conventional, but dexos will require grp III pao, from what I can interpret.

I am still running a grp III (penz. platinum) for a while. I am considering, but not committed to grp II (PYB).

I am not here to bash, argue, belittle, or smackdown anyone. I would like to have a civil discussion with anyone. I treat and talk to people the same way they talk to me.

Fair Shake?

Dave

Fair Shake...you got it.

Kirk

Here are photos of a Crown Vic Police Interceptor. 100K + on odometer (2005) K-9 vehicle. OCI 3-4K (vehicle was never shut off during duty hours, due to the dog needing A/C.

Oil filler look down.
[URL= oil filler tube[/URL]

Engine Bay Pic [URL= ]engine Bay[/URL]

This CVPI was only run on conventional oil. Ford Modular engines are stout and can handle abuse. Some varnish and a little goop forming on rockers.
Bay clean, as it was getting ready for auction.

Dave

Nice....

But, I wonder if Dexos will become the new DexCool.(All those lawsuits.......)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Trajen/nuke/dave/etc.etc...........Get lost!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You're Busted as a liar for the whole world to see!!!

THIS IS A PROFESSIONAL FORUM.......YOU ARE NOT!!!!!


I post only the facts and the truth.....that's how I caught you and your lies......with the facts!!!! The facts never lie........only you do!!!! Now we have proof of who you are,and that you are a liar!!!


By the way.........synthetic oil is better!!! Dino/mineral causes sludge...even in mower engines...... The facts say so!

Just to finish the weirdness from you once and for all I have requested the MODERATOR post on this thread who the trolls are that have multiple identities...It will be nice when the RESIDENT TROLLS: Inhaliburton, Kirk, and good ol' Annie, are exposed once and for all, for what they are known to be just; INTERNET TROLLS

Miro/Inhaliburton/Kirk,

You are what in your late fifties, early sixties?

I'm sure your parents would be proud to know that their 'grown son' is nothing but an 'internet troll'.

Oh thats right you took care of that parent thing....problem solved huh?

quote:

Originally posted by Nucleardawg:

Oh thats right you took care of that parent thing....problem solved huh?

Ya know, I hate the taste of the bile I get every time I have to caution the use of this.
I don't like defending people who don't deserve it.

I know you're better than that. Don't prove me wrong.

quote:

Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Miro/Inhaliburton/Kirk,

You are what in your late fifties, early sixties?

I'm sure your parents would be proud to know that their 'grown son' is nothing but an 'internet troll'.

Oh thats right you took care of that parent thing....problem solved huh?

For your own good, I hope you didn't press the "Report This Post" button.

It was already pressed by someone else, and the moderator reponded...You don't read so good do you...You have accused 3 people here of being one poster...We need to find out who you are as well...I have nothing to hide, as your plainly wrong as usual.

If I do choose to report your posts...Then quit posting your usual crud...You can always go to the other site...oh thats right you were banned their as well, for the same behaviour...Cry me a river. It's real easy Miro you see, YOUR THE ONE WITH THE PROBLEM...And your past history here, and on other sites spells out that 'FACT'.

It would be great to have a well thought out civil discussion. I don't seem to have an issue with anyone else...I believe all others are probably about the same. With you though we have a 5 year history of the same trollish behaviour under different guises as well. Perhaps Miro, you need a break from these sites, as you seem to be cracking from the strain...Or perhaps medication, to control the mental spasms.

You know Miro some people could construe the "for your own good" as a threat to my well being.. If that happens Miro, well I will be reporting this post to the mods....Just so their is no mis-understanding in the future.

If you think you are installing the correct oil/grade/viscosity in your car..........think again.

Quote

Even if you select what you think is the OEM
required viscosity, you could be wrong. GM 5W-30 viscosity approval is different than SAE 5W-30 viscosity approval. The GM approval requires better low temperature pumping viscosity than SAE. And, a BMW approved 5W-30 is required to be thicker at high temperature than the SAE 10W-40 requirement. If you don’t understand the OEM proprietary and ACEA oil service rating systems, you won’t know the true viscosity of most oil products.

The whole link

http://diagnosticnews.com/tech...-lubrication-basics/

Notice the mention of 5w-30 being not as thick,but even thicker than 10w-40 for BMW. So much for all those against thick oil.

Looks like a premium super synthetic of 5w-50 is just about perfect if you go by the European BMW spec.

All those skeptics making fun of 'thick oil' (5w-50 / 100% synthetic oil) should re-think that belief.



Kirk

quote:

Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
You know Miro some people could construe the "for your own good" as a threat to my well being.. If that happens Miro, well I will be reporting this post to the mods....Just so their is no mis-understanding in the future.

Your're as crazy as a bag of hammers. What grade are you in?

quote:

Originally posted by inHaliburton:

quote:

Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
You know Miro some people could construe the "for your own good" as a threat to my well being.. If that happens Miro, well I will be reporting this post to the mods....Just so their is no mis-understanding in the future.

Your're as crazy as a bag of hammers. What grade are you in?

Not what grade.........what CRAZY WARD!!!!

quote:

Like in a certain Murano owned by some guy named budman..

Trajan....There you go again bringing up synlube. You must love the stuff. I spoke to budman and he told me that the Murano had many,many issues,so he traded it in.

He purchased a brand new saturn and installed synlube in that car too,and installed it in his other car as well. Now why would he do that? Because he knows it's very good oil,like I do.

<<<This is budman posting about the saturn
This sample came from MY REAL car (Saturn) that had 20,xxx miles on it at time of sample. In another thread somewhere on this forum I posted pictures of me installing synlube back in early 2008 when I bought the car and it had 1149 miles on it (i have pic of odometer at the time as well on my PC). It has gone through two filter changes since then as well as topping up with their ADD oil when needed. 19,011 miles on this sample and more everyday since it is still in my car.>>>>

No sludge here as well also from budman.............doesn't get any better than this..My cars also look just like the photos in the link below.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...1842031&#Post1842031

Budman's remarks:

Engine runs great, uses about 1/8 qt of oil per year (short trips probably most of it) and from what I can see, looks clean inside the fill hole.
I have tried to remain as neutral as possible and not take sides. I am not here to try to convince anyone to use or not use it but rather give an objective report as best I can. The Murano, I felt, had nothing to do with my choice of oil. It was cursed with issues to the point even with dino in it, was causing dealer visits. That is why I was willing to try Synlube again for my two new cars.


NO sludge in any of my cars now pushing 10 years with said lube you love to keep bringing up,over,and over again.

Kirk

quote:

I stopped when they annoyed me.

quote:

They will post on various boards and whine about how their engine runs like crap, and people like you will blame the oil. Not the people who use the wrong oil.

Any clearer now?

No,Trajan... you are never clear, quite frankly.

If the old/other standards were all so good trajan,all those years like so many have claimed all that time with each and every standard.......then why all the newer better standards addressing all the issues with the older standards?

Some of you posters will use cheap oil,change it every 1 or 2,000 miles. Discuss the use of engine flushes on other threads/sites to clean up the engine.......and then....

Flush out those engines with cleaners/solvents such as,MMO,A-RX,RIS.,KEROSENE,change oil,continue with chemical cleaners and flushes over and over, and then.......take a picture of a very clean valve train and say.........."cheap oil works for me"..... failing to mention all the steps/measures/cleaners taken to keep the engine clean giving a false impression/lie that dino/mineral oil did all the work.......what a joke!!!! That stuff is way old school 30 years ago and beyond!

Why not just use group IV synthetic?......it's cheaper and easier in the long,better for the engine,and way better for the environment.

It must be frustrating. No auto maker uses unrated, unproven oil in their vehicles.

Must be frustrating that most of them use dino oil for their low/mid range vehicles.

Must be frustrating that, for example, Porsche factory fills with Mobil 1. BMW with Castrol, or Ferarri uses Shell.

Must be galling that despite your claims, dino or Grp III oils are being used by thousands upon thousands of vehicles with no problems.

I'm thinking it's time for more 'links' that will show the 'facts' about the horrors of using group III oils.

Of course the links will not show anything as usual. Funny how even though evreything it posts fails to backup it's claims...It just can't admit it's wrong.

Some people have that as a personal failure. Kinda funny and sad at the same time.

Just for the record........

I never spoke of anything horrific about group III oil,other then a few cases perhaps.....in fact....dexos will be group III. Dexos Looks to be a very good Lubricant reaching for a much higher standard.

The horror stories I spoke of were mostly with bulk oil......almost always group II.

Just the facts


Kirk

Group II bulk oil used by many dealers and lube chains...Those are oils I just don't use in my vehicles...Though admittedly many do...vehicle owners enticed in by the $10-15 oil change, who after having it changed forget about ever checking it for a year.

The biggest cause of premature engine wear is owner neglect. For the most part even the cheaper oils will work with reasonable OCI. The owner needs to keep up on all facets of maintenance. A cheap little PCV causes how many problems? Leaking gaskets ignored, and the owner opting to just periodically fill the radiator.

Oil changes are just one facet of vehicle care...Important yes, but to often other facets are ignored, and the end result is sludge, with the uninformed naturally blaming the oil.

In our disposeable go go society, people either don't care about vehicle maintenance, or plead ignorant, and pay someone to do the job. A new car is about the second most expensive item most of us will purchase. I don't like to give up my hard earned cash, evry 5-7 years for a new car, so I spend the time to know the vehicle, and take care of it properly in all aspects.

75 Vette.... Nice toy.

I'm about 100 yds from an expressway. Otherwise, I can go miles and miles before I even see a traffic light.

So my oil gets nice and warm. No sludge worries using my Grp III oil.

111K, and it still rips through the gears like a throughbread. Really fun when you hit the sport button.

Yeah, right. A clunker. Sure Miro. Would be if I used unrated poo like synlube.

Refresh my memory you drive a Z4? If so that is a beast of modern machinery with beautiful styling to match.

The motors produced by BMW can lay down some serious horsepower, with handling to match. Sporty but also refined and surefooted.

To pollute the engine with swill like Synlube...Well that would be a syn.

Since the dexos spec. will be for GM vehicles and primarily a Group III oil, they are going to have a hard time denying warranty claims for oil-related failures. As has been stated before, most people will buy a new GM, then when the OLM kicks in, they will go to iffy lube/greasy monkey, a dealer (if they can find one), or an independent. Most places will put in bulk oil.

Here in Central Fl, GM dealerships are scarce. I would have to drive to Daytona Beach (30 minutes) or to Orlando (about an hour). At least our local Lincoln Mercury dealer will work on other makes. Glad I have Nissans. There is a dealer about 5 minutes away from the office.

I think the purpose of extending OCI's make eco-sense, etc. I am running a grp III oil, but am conservative and change every 5K. I like crawling under my car and truck. I can see how everything is holding up. I check the suspension, rotate the tires, check for leaks. I check the oil level at least once a week.

Lovebug season is here, so I will probably be opening the hood more often now. Gotta hose out the bugs from the radiator and other cooler fins.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Refresh my memory you drive a Z4? If so that is a beast of modern machinery with beautiful styling to match.

The motors produced by BMW can lay down some serious horsepower, with handling to match. Sporty but also refined and surefooted.

To pollute the engine with swill like Synlube...Well that would be a syn.

A 2004 Z4 3.0L with 225hp. (The last year for that rating IIRC. When the 3.0si came out, it dropped to 215.)

The gearing is nice. At 2K rpm, multiply your gear by 10 and that's your mph.