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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

It looks like the automakers(GM) are going to be leading the way and setting the motor oil standards in the near future,rather than Big oil setting the standard. This is how it's been done in Europe for many years now.

The DEXOS motor oil standard will be superior to the New GF-5 standard making Dexos similar to the European motor oil standards, and it's about time!

http://motoroilbible.com/blog/...exos-motor-oil-spec/

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov2009/cover.htm

http://www.nalube.com/e-newsle...chive/2009/july.html


This is a quote from one of the links that shows how good this new standard will be even over the GF-5 stanard.

<<<<The final Dexos standard has characteristics of a European formulation; improved oil robustness to support extended drain intervals with no improvements to fuel economy. In fact, Dexos requirements will incorporate a number of European performance tests (ACEA) that are not applicable in GF-4 or GF-5 standards. Dexos’ final formulation is considered more robust than GF-4 and new GF-5 standards. This is in contrast to one of the key elements of the proposed GF-5 standard, improved fuel economy. GM called for improvements in oil robustness and extended service intervals to support their vehicle’s Oil Life Monitoring System (OLMS) and to require fewer lifetime service visits. Upon the successful implementation of Dexos, GM will likely recalibrate the algorithm on OLMS to further extend intervals, as was done with the introduction of GF-4.>>>>



Kirk
Last edited {1}
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The new GF-5 is already looking not to be a very good choice for doing extended oil change intervals which goes against the direction the industry is headed.

The new Dexos is making the GF-5 seem absolete already.....at least in the realm of extended oil change intervals.

...QUOTE....

<<<<<<GM plans to phase out any mention of ILSAC or API specifications in its owners manuals, in order to promote the new dexos specification. A mockup of an owners manual Johnson showed includes the warning: “Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.”
Impact on the Lube Industry

The initiatives being undertaken by both automakers will have a lasting impact on the fast lube industry. Ford’s reliance on smaller, harder-working turbocharged engines will put even more pressure on motor oil, possibly limiting the ability of even the next-generation GF-5 motor oil to offer oil change intervals that are much extended beyond today’s standards.

GM, meanwhile, will shortly introduce a proprietary (probably synthetic) motor oil that will allow its engines to maximize technologies like displacement on demand and variable valve technology. >>>>>>


Apparently, the automakers have not been very satisfied with the quality of the present day lubes and all the issues it has caused in their engines.

This indicates that the automakers have lost faith and confidence with the API standards set by big oil, and now are going to take matters into their own hands as did the Europeans to finally raise the lube standards where they actually need to be with todays high tech engines.
Last edited by captainkirk
a giant leap from the currently accepted norm, where OEM specs are typically established only for specific vehicles that truly require the additional protection guaranteed by adherence to a more robust OEM specification

So much for the "big oil" theory......

"(ACEA), was founded in 1991 to represent the interests of the 15 European automotive manufacturers."
"The vast majority of motor oils in North America meet or exceed ACEA standards"

"The International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee, better known as ILSAC, is a consortium of the automakers - General Motors Corp., Ford Motor Co. and Chrysler LLC - and the Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association"

Ummm, GM is doing this for *all* their engines. Instead of a few. "for all motor oils which are to be used in ANY of their vehicles."

Again, from his own links. And again, so much for "big oil".
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Trajan,
For what it is worth, most major brand "dino" oils will be able to meet the GF-5 standard. Pennzoil YB is already working on the API SN standard. Not bad for a group II oil.

Dave


That's a bold statement that most major brand dino oils will meet the GF-5 standard.

That sounds like your opinion rather than fact.

For what its worth,the dexos standard will be superior to the GF-5 standard,because dexos will be held to a higher standard similiar to the European standard.

Why use an oil that adheres to a minimum standard rather than a higher standard like dexos,or any high quality present day group iv synthetic oil? With the price to fill up at the pump for fuel....motor oil is cheap.....even synthetic.
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
For what it is worth, most major brand "dino" oils will be able to


QUOTE..

While each company must meet the stringent GF-5 standards, they may take slightly different approaches to meeting the specification in types and amounts of additives and modifiers. One thing is certain: there will be a higher content of additives and synthetic compounds. This will increase oil life, protect the metal and sealing . END QUOTE


Dave,you said most Dino oils will meet the new GF-5 standard yet overlooked the fact that synthetics will have to be added to achieve that standard.


Kirk
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Trajan,
For what it is worth, most major brand "dino" oils will be able to meet the GF-5 standard. Pennzoil YB is already working on the API SN standard. Not bad for a group II oil.

Dave


Not at all Dave. Not bad at all. Now if only there is an A3/B3 dino.... Smile

Oil formulation has come a long way.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Much nonsense....
.


Not my fault you make big oil your personal demon and yet post links that shoot down that theory.


The real demon was all the issues the old lube standards allowed to happen to all those engines....excess wear....sludge....etc.

The reason for the new dexos standard is to avoid any engine damage that stemmed from low quality motor oils.

The fact the automakers are setting new standards of their own like the Europeans...proves they are not happy with the GF-4 or GF-5 standards,and have grown tired waiting for much better oil standards that never seems to arrive,even though the automakers have requested it in the past.

The automakers have done their job building higher tech,cleaner,and more efficient engines as per the EPA,and government. However, big oil has let them down,and now the automakers are finally taking matters into their own hands and getting the lube standards those engines needed all along,following Europes lead from the engine black death years that led to far better oil.

Using your logic,you could assert the automakers are the ones demonizing big oil.....and for good reason!!! Just look at history!! I don't blame the automakers. If I were building high tech engines,I too would demand a certain lube standard,or create my own standards if others couldn't deliver.
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
For what it is worth, most major brand "dino" oils will be able to


QUOTE..

While each company must meet the stringent GF-5 standards, they may take slightly different approaches to meeting the specification in types and amounts of additives and modifiers. One thing is certain: there will be a higher content of additives and synthetic compounds. This will increase oil life, protect the metal and sealing . END QUOTE


Dave,you said most Dino oils will meet the new GF-5 standard yet overlooked the fact that synthetics will have to be added to achieve that standard.


Kirk


Kirk, explain this then.. PYB already meets/exceeds GF-5 and API SN, although not "officially" certified. Still a conventional oil and not a blend.
Pennzoil Conventional Spec. Sheet

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Thanks for the site. My take on GF-5 spec is better protection for Ethanol (E-85) use, seal compatibility, and of course, fuel economy.

Speaking of ethanol, here in Central FL, it is about impossible to find a station that does not have 10% or less ethanol per gallon. Stuff wreaks havoc on OPE carburetor gaskets!

Dave


Hi Dave. My Florida customers complain more about ethanol than anywhere else. Probably because of the high humidity. It is supposed to go to 15% ethanol soon.

This is the product that AMSOIL just released to help deal with ethanol: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aqs.aspx?zo=1181889 .

Q&A on this product at: https://www.amsoil.com/dealer/...e_AQS.pdf?zo=1181889 .

Power Point presentation at https://admin.acrobat.com/_a72...t=true&pbMode=normal .
Valero is not real popular here. I usually use Chevron or Texaco. I get about 30-40 more miles per tankful than discount stations. Probably due to less ethanol, but about 2-3 cents higher per gal. At least my Titan is Flex-Fuel. Altima is not.

I might try the Amsoil Powershot for my OPE. I use Saber Pro for my 2 cycle mix.

I think the GF-5 is a step up, at least to keep internals from rusting/corroding from the corn liquor.

I did read that some testing has changed for the GF-5 certifications... Confused Anyone enlighten me? Something to do with the high temp wear protection..

Thanks,
Dave
I guess they kept the same high temp testing for GF-5. Some older posts on various boards (late 08 early 09), mentioned that the high temp testing was going to be different.

I might try some TC-W3 in the tank and see how it goes. Titan out of warranty anyways. I might use some old 2-stroke gas/oil mix that I have sitting around from last year. I will put in a gallon of that stuff first (my tank is almost 30 gal).

dave
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
The thing about the TC is that it's ashless, which makes it catalytic converter friendly.

And cost/benefit wise, you can't beat it.

30 gal tank... Ouch. Especially if it's premium.

And, going back to Briggs and Stratton:
http://www.wired.com/autopia/2...motive-atrocities/3/


Titan takes Regular 87, thank goodness. Love the Briggs ride, turn of the century go-kart!

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
The thing about the TC is that it's ashless, which makes it catalytic converter friendly.

And cost/benefit wise, you can't beat it.

30 gal tank... Ouch. Especially if it's premium.

And, going back to Briggs and Stratton:
http://www.wired.com/autopia/2...motive-atrocities/3/


I have been using various fuel lube products such as,MMO,redline,lucas UCL,and even the amsoil 100:1 saber(500:1 in car).

Lately, I have been using the lucas UCL at roughly 5.25 ounces to 25 gallons of fuel. Seems to be the cheapest way to go. They sell the stuff by the gallon on Amazon with free shipping for about $25. In the past, the lucas quieted down a noisey fuel pump in my last car.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Yeah, well, we're more interested in the question above.
To wit: Kirk, explain this then.. PYB already meets/exceeds GF-5 and API SN, although not "officially" certified. Still a conventional oil and not a blend. http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/...601_201003012040.pdf

$25/gal for Lucas vs $11/gal for Super Tech TC-W3 which works just as well....


I read the shell link and noted the Noack volality of almost 15%. Would you put that stuff in you Beamer at 15% volatility? Also,how robust is the oil at wear protection? My guess,not nearly as good as dexos or other group IV oils.

The dexos will have a much lower Noack Volatily than 15%.

Quote
The enhanced robustness of Dexos is categorized by improved low temperature pumpability, reduced volatility limits, tightened limits on weighted piston deposit tests and more aggressive sludge performance. These performance characteristics will require a formulation with additional detergents, dispersants and ashless oxidation inhibitors. Improvements in low temperature performance, volatility and piston deposit control will dictate a base oil mix of predominately Group III synthetic base stocks.


What standard do you want in your engine???

What oil do you already pour into your engine to date.
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Yeah, well, we're more interested in the question above.
To wit: Kirk, explain this then.. PYB already meets/exceeds GF-5 and API SN, although not "officially" certified. Still a conventional oil and not a blend. http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/...601_201003012040.pdf

$25/gal for Lucas vs $11/gal for Super Tech TC-W3 which works just as well....


I read the shell link and noted the Noack volality of almost 15%. Would you put that stuff in you Beamer at 15% volatility? Also,how robust is the oil at wear protection? My guess,not nearly as good as dexos or other group IV oils.

The dexos will have a much lower Noack Volatily than 15%.

Quote
The enhanced robustness of Dexos is categorized by improved low temperature pumpability, reduced volatility limits, tightened limits on weighted piston deposit tests and more aggressive sludge performance. These performance characteristics will require a formulation with additional detergents, dispersants and ashless oxidation inhibitors. Improvements in low temperature performance, volatility and piston deposit control will dictate a base oil mix of predominately Group III synthetic base stocks.


What standard do you want in your engine???

What oil do you already pour into your engine to date.


The NOACK volatility is on par for most major brands of CONVENTIONAL oil. PQI Test Results

I have no problem with that. If it was a GRP III or IV synthetic, then there would be a problem.

Here is a listing of "Private Label" conventionals. Private Label

SuperTech does not look too bad. Some, I would not use in my lawn mower..

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Yeah, well, we're more interested in the question above.
To wit: Kirk, explain this then.. PYB already meets/exceeds GF-5 and API SN, although not "officially" certified. Still a conventional oil and not a blend. http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/...601_201003012040.pdf

$25/gal for Lucas vs $11/gal for Super Tech TC-W3 which works just as well....


I read the shell link and noted the Noack volality of almost 15%. Would you put that stuff in you Beamer at 15% volatility? Also,how robust is the oil at wear protection? My guess,not nearly as good as dexos or other group IV oils.

The dexos will have a much lower Noack Volatily than 15%.

Quote
The enhanced robustness of Dexos is categorized by improved low temperature pumpability, reduced volatility limits, tightened limits on weighted piston deposit tests and more aggressive sludge performance. These performance characteristics will require a formulation with additional detergents, dispersants and ashless oxidation inhibitors. Improvements in low temperature performance, volatility and piston deposit control will dictate a base oil mix of predominately Group III synthetic base stocks.


What standard do you want in your engine???

What oil do you already pour into your engine to date.


Kirk, I guess you are trying to compare apples to oranges. I was stating that conventional oils can meet the GF-5 standard w/o any synthetic base stock.
quote:
"Dave,you said most Dino oils will meet the new GF-5 standard yet overlooked the fact that synthetics will have to be added to achieve that standard."
Because you stated earlier that a more robust additive pack or synthetic blend would be needed. Try reading the full paragraph that I wrote, before jumping to conclusions. Of course a conventional oil is going to have a higher NOACK volatility than a Grp IV or III oil. Two totally different animals.

The NOACK volatility is on par for most major brands of CONVENTIONAL oil. PQI Test Results

I have no problem with that. If it was a GRP III or IV synthetic, then there would be a problem.

Here is a listing of "Private Label" conventionals. Private Label

SuperTech does not look too bad. Some, I would not use in my lawn mower..

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Yeah, well, we're more interested in the question above.
To wit: Kirk, explain this then.. PYB already meets/exceeds GF-5 and API SN, although not "officially" certified. Still a conventional oil and not a blend. http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/...601_201003012040.pdf

$25/gal for Lucas vs $11/gal for Super Tech TC-W3 which works just as well....


I read the shell link and noted the Noack volality of almost 15%. Would you put that stuff in you Beamer at 15% volatility? Also,how robust is the oil at wear protection? My guess,not nearly as good as dexos or other group IV oils.

The dexos will have a much lower Noack Volatily than 15%.

Quote
The enhanced robustness of Dexos is categorized by improved low temperature pumpability, reduced volatility limits, tightened limits on weighted piston deposit tests and more aggressive sludge performance. These performance characteristics will require a formulation with additional detergents, dispersants and ashless oxidation inhibitors. Improvements in low temperature performance, volatility and piston deposit control will dictate a base oil mix of predominately Group III synthetic base stocks.


What standard do you want in your engine???

What oil do you already pour into your engine to date.


The oil meets GF-5. Despite what you claim, it's a conventional oil. The question was can you explain it?

That is the question. Not what I put in the Z4. Especially as I've made that plain. More than once

But, I'll say it again.

ACEA A3/B3. LL-01 if I can get it. And I can. But it *has* to be A3/B3. Not meets or exceeds. It *has* to have the ACEA mark. I'm anal that way. Maybe I'll try the Amsoil Euro. Maybe.

I've used BMW 5w-30, GC 0w-30, Castrol 5w-40, (LL-98 but still A3/B3), and M1 0w-40. Three of them are on the current BMWNA approved oil list.

I trust I won't have to repeat that.

See, I use API/ACEA rated oil. I use quality filters. I don't exceed mfg OCIs.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
See, I use API/ACEA rated oil. I use quality filters. I don't exceed mfg OCI


Same here Trajan. Both my Nissan's spec API/SL-SM and recommend mineral based oil. OCI 3750 Severe or 7500 Normal conditions. I meet in the middle and go 5000 on both vehicles. I am running Penz. Platinum Grp III right now (got it for a good price), but will start using PYB. Reason: Price. I am quite comfortable using a quality, name brand oil that meets the automaker's specs. I can get 12qts PYB for about the same cost as 5qt jug of platinum. I use quality filters too.

Dave
Maybe I've missed it, but do you guys know that there will be 2 different types of Dexos?

Dexos1 for America with emphasis on fuel economy and Dexos2 for Europe with higher limits on SAP levels. US will also get Dexos2, however Europe does not need the Dexos1 as it looks for now.
Dexos1 needs to fulfill the ILSAC norms and Dexos2 needs to fulfill ACEA C3-07. Basically Dexos2 is more or less designed for Diesel engines AND spark ignited engines, where Dexos1 is only for spark ignited engines.

Backwards compatibility:
“dexos1™ replaces GM-LL-A-025, GM6094M and GM4718M.”

“dexos2™ replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.”
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Found this tidbit about dexos and GF-5. asashop.org

Seems to be another way to up the prices. 15% for GF-5 and up to 30% for dexos. Seems to be GM's way of getting extra profit, since they were bailed out? Dexos for sparkers seems to be 0W-XX and the diesels are 5W-XX weight. Mostly Grp III PAO's for dexos.


What a crazy concept,charge more for a better product.....less for a cheaper product!
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave


You tow with the titan,spend 3 grand a year on fuel, don't use synthetic,live in florida, and tow in all that heat!

I am surprised to see that. Your choice,your vehicle,do what you want.
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.


No tirades here trajen.........just the facts.........and you don't like them......OH WELL!!
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Oh pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Tirades about Gr III. Yet can't explain all the clean valvetrains et al. Can't explain why a B&S motor is clean and sludge free. Cant' explain why PYB is GF-5 ready even though it's dino.

Even puts up link after link that torpedoes your own positions.

Why not just say what you're bending over backwards not to. You want everyone to use synlube.

I haven't seen anything that says Dave, or other dino users, are on the wrong track. But I've seen the results of not following the mantra of quality oil, filter, mfg or better OCIs.

many of them from Kerk's own links.


Trojan....why do yoouuuuu keep on bringing up synlube,and no one else does???? However the person I care most about using the oil you like to bring up so much..... is.....me....myself.......and I. Your loss!

I already explained why no sludge in a mower engine waaaayyyy back.......NO emission controls,runs hot and burns off moisture,no short trips,incomplete warmups etc.

However,the fact that an air cooled mower engine runs hot has been known to cause issues such as, hot sludging/coking,especially during long runs,and that's why I run synthetic in all my engines period.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/foru...owflat&Number=486820


Another reason why I put synthetic in all my small equipment,and use several fuel additive products at once. Never have any issues,including the first start in spring.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25936782/

http://www.ehow.com/how_601904...stratton-engine.html
Last edited by captainkirk
Even Porshe acknowleges that todays oils are lacking in protection.. Just look

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine, including newer water-cooled ones. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending non-approved motorcycle or racing oils, or the addition of oil supplements at every oil change, for their higher levels of protection. On newer water-cooled engines where Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended, a simple change to an oil with CJ-4 rating or preferably an oil with SL or CI-4 rating as well as a viscosity of 5w40 rather than 0w40 are two changes that can be done in addition to more frequent oil changes to ensure longevity of newer engines.


The whole link......explain this trajen.........

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.

IMHO, synthetic is great for those who want it, or if the manufacturer specifies it.

I have an additional oil cooler, aux fan, trans filter, and trans cooler for my towing needs. I also installed an oil temp gauge.

I spend 250 a month just for fuel in the Titan.

Dave


You tow with the titan,spend 3 grand a year on fuel, don't use synthetic,live in florida, and tow in all that heat!

I am surprised to see that. Your choice,your vehicle,do what you want.


And it is obvious you don't read all the way through everyone's posts, before posting your quips. I am running Pennzoil Platinum in both my Nissans right now. Last time I checked it was a PAO synthetic Grp III. I am considering going back to conventional, once I get through my stash of Platinum (about 3 more changes). Nissan engineers recommend conventional oil and I figure they know more than I do about what to run in the engine they designed.

I have not made the decision yet.

I would be more worried about my engine being damaged by ethanol in the fuel, over what oil I use. Mainly on the Altima as it is not flex capable. Ethanol eats and corrodes O rings, gaskets, injector components, fuel pumps, etc. that is going to be the engine killer, not so much as lubricants.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.


Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was, showed no sludge, and dino/mineral oil was just fine and was all the mower ever saw. That apparently wasn't truth at all. BIG LIE IN FACT.

What in the world is this all about then??? This shows a different """story"""

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


When connecting the Dots of all your story telling.................it's very disturbing indeed why someone would lie like that and make up all those stories and twist/distort/fabricate whatever information existed or not, Just to avoid admitting synthetic oil is better???

Talk about issues. Get back on your meds....NOW SIR!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine.

What in the world is this all about then???

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Dave...I am starting to question your credibilty with yet another link that tells another story about your assertions of no sludge.......including no lawnmower sludge.

To think you actually started another thread on this forum showing how clean your mower engine was and showed no sludge and dino oil was just fine. That wasn't exactly the whole true story....was it????

What in the world is this very different story all about then??? Dave,you are not being very candid...are you??

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761


Just to remind everyone of your other, very different "story"

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995&m=242104424


You have no room to question the credibility of anyone.


You guys have some strange issues now that I have blown the lid off whatever agenda you have.

I have always been a totally straight shooter......just the facts.

The facts aren't looking to good revealing all of Dave's story telling and now outright lies and fabrication.

WOW..........THE TRUTH FINALLY COMES OUT!!!

Dave..........what gives???

Flush out your mower engine with chemicals(MMO,etc).. and.......then post pictures showing how clean it is saying you used nothing but cheap/dino/mineral oil as if the oil kept it clean all along by itself....just to give the false impression using cheap oil works fine,instead of synthetic. That's just nuts.

Dave(trajen),your previous posts/lies now proves all along what I was talking about regarding sludge being caused from cheap oil that you tried to hide all this time, and why would you do that.!!

It looks to me.......like..........Trajen=Deltona_Dave!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Who says I am being cheap? I run a decent oil, change every 5K and take the used oil for recycling. My Titan did not cost 40K BTW. 15K, it was a fleet vehicle I bought at auction. I also take almost 8 quarts of oil.
I run Redline oil in the differential and Amsoil in the Tranny. Why spend the extra $ for something I will change out every 6 months or so? Yes, I am old school, and it is my preference. I don't think Pennzoil conventional is "bare minimum". Store brands maybe. The Titan does not perform any differently with Syn or conventional oil.


Dave.......According to your own words.......just a few months ago.......you stated your truck/titan does run better/cooler with synthetic oil.......just wanted to remind you of what you said. Did something change from only February of this year when your truck ran cooler/better with synthetic oil?

Here is your link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1775510


Did you not read that I was using Mobil 1 before switching to Pennzoil Platinum? Last I heard, Mobil 1 was a synthetic oil... I started using Platinum due to the fact that I was given several cases of it. Mobil 1 made my top end a little noisy. Yes, the coolant temp went down a little, not much with platinum.

No, I am not Trajan/nuke. I am me.

About the Mower. Yes, in my first post, I had a little varnish on the dipstick, and was concerned that i was getting some sludge. I had not pulled the valve covers off at that time. I went with some of the board posters suggestions to try a motorcraft filter and maybe a different HDEO. I also asked if I should go with a synthetic oil or use an additive. At least over there, I can ask a question and do not get bashed over it.

I never used an engine flush, nor a synthetic oil, except for a top-off one time. The Delvac 1300 that is in it now seems to have cleaned the little bit of varnish that was there to a point. It still uses oil, not as much, but still have to top off about every 8 hours of use. BTW, there still is some bits of varnish on the rocker nuts, just not visible in the pics. The B&S engine is not spotless, but clean enough. I still need to pull the heads and de-carbon the pistons/combustion chambers.

You are the one that states you use Synlube in your vehicles. Does it meet Motorcraft and Daimler Chrysler specs? Hope it does if you need power train warranty claims.

You can can discredit me, that's fine. I am human, I make mistakes and forget things (I am getting old).

I still work on over 250 CVPI's for the Sheriff's Office, that are assigned to patrol division. They only see conventional oil changes every 5K. After 5 years of service and an average of 100K on the Odo, the engine camshafts are still clean.

Dave. Not Trajan or anyone else.
Also,
No where did I say that Conventional was better than Synthetic. My whole point is that whatever oil one chooses to use will work fine, as long as it meets/exceeds what the manufacturer recommends and is changed at proper intervals.

Most oil related problems are due to the fact that owners use improper oil, or do not change when recommended.

The point of this topic was about GF-5 standard. Conventionals will be able to meet that standard.

Is that wrong?

Bash away Kirk.

Dave
Trajan,
You could always get a small utility trailer. Harbor Freight has some small collapsible ones for about $200. DOT approved and about 4x8 (the size of a standard sheet of plywood). You would just have to buy a 3/4" sheet of PT ply for the flooring. It will only hold about 900-1000 lbs, but can be handy. I have one, but when it is empty, tends to bounce around.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Trajan,
You could always get a small utility trailer. Harbor Freight has some small collapsible ones for about $200. DOT approved and about 4x8 (the size of a standard sheet of plywood). You would just have to buy a 3/4" sheet of PT ply for the flooring. It will only hold about 900-1000 lbs, but can be handy. I have one, but when it is empty, tends to bounce around.

Dave


Not a bad idea, but it would take some fabricating on my end for a hitch. It would have to go under the rear cover.

I've seen it on a Z3. I've read you can get one for a 3, don't know about the 4.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/foru...207&highlight=towing
Last edited by trajan
quote:
The point of this topic was about GF-5 standard. Conventionals will be able to meet that standard.



Dave....define conventional oil. Do you mean group II ??

I doubt very much that conventional oil will meet the GF-5 spec without the use of synthetic oil in the mix. Even if some product does manage to arrive that is totally conventional but claims to meet the GF-5 standard,I think it will have issues compared to a premium group III,or my preference.....Group IV. My concern with conventional oil is.. too high noack volatility,oil film sheering,oxidation,oil film strength too weak,and so forth.

When dexos hits,it will put GF-5 at the bottom. The pecking order will be something like this.....GF-5(the lowest minimal standard).......DEXOS(GROUP III)(middle standard).....and the best being....Group IV(the highest standard) as usual.

Your car,your engine,your investment,your money,your choice.

Kirk
Last edited by captainkirk
Kirk, what oil meets IV? I am presuming Mobil-1 but they keep it a "secret" and some have mentioned it is a grp III.

GF-5 can be met with conventional, but dexos will require grp III pao, from what I can interpret.

I am still running a grp III (penz. platinum) for a while. I am considering, but not committed to grp II (PYB).

I am not here to bash, argue, belittle, or smackdown anyone. I would like to have a civil discussion with anyone. I treat and talk to people the same way they talk to me.

Fair Shake?

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
Kirk, what oil meets IV? I am presuming Mobil-1 but they keep it a "secret" and some have mentioned it is a grp III.

GF-5 can be met with conventional, but dexos will require grp III pao, from what I can interpret.

I am still running a grp III (penz. platinum) for a while. I am considering, but not committed to grp II (PYB).

I am not here to bash, argue, belittle, or smackdown anyone. I would like to have a civil discussion with anyone. I treat and talk to people the same way they talk to me.

Fair Shake?

Dave


Fair Shake...you got it.

Kirk
Here are photos of a Crown Vic Police Interceptor. 100K + on odometer (2005) K-9 vehicle. OCI 3-4K (vehicle was never shut off during duty hours, due to the dog needing A/C.

Oil filler look down.
[URL= oil filler tube[/URL]

Engine Bay Pic [URL= ]engine Bay[/URL]

This CVPI was only run on conventional oil. Ford Modular engines are stout and can handle abuse. Some varnish and a little goop forming on rockers.
Bay clean, as it was getting ready for auction.

Dave
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Trajen/nuke/dave/etc.etc...........Get lost!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You're Busted as a liar for the whole world to see!!!

THIS IS A PROFESSIONAL FORUM.......YOU ARE NOT!!!!!


I post only the facts and the truth.....that's how I caught you and your lies......with the facts!!!! The facts never lie........only you do!!!! Now we have proof of who you are,and that you are a liar!!!


By the way.........synthetic oil is better!!! Dino/mineral causes sludge...even in mower engines...... The facts say so!

Just to finish the weirdness from you once and for all I have requested the MODERATOR post on this thread who the trolls are that have multiple identities...It will be nice when the RESIDENT TROLLS: Inhaliburton, Kirk, and good ol' Annie, are exposed once and for all, for what they are known to be just; INTERNET TROLLS
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Miro/Inhaliburton/Kirk,

You are what in your late fifties, early sixties?

I'm sure your parents would be proud to know that their 'grown son' is nothing but an 'internet troll'.

Oh thats right you took care of that parent thing....problem solved huh?


For your own good, I hope you didn't press the "Report This Post" button.
It was already pressed by someone else, and the moderator reponded...You don't read so good do you...You have accused 3 people here of being one poster...We need to find out who you are as well...I have nothing to hide, as your plainly wrong as usual.

If I do choose to report your posts...Then quit posting your usual crud...You can always go to the other site...oh thats right you were banned their as well, for the same behaviour...Cry me a river. It's real easy Miro you see, YOUR THE ONE WITH THE PROBLEM...And your past history here, and on other sites spells out that 'FACT'.

It would be great to have a well thought out civil discussion. I don't seem to have an issue with anyone else...I believe all others are probably about the same. With you though we have a 5 year history of the same trollish behaviour under different guises as well. Perhaps Miro, you need a break from these sites, as you seem to be cracking from the strain...Or perhaps medication, to control the mental spasms.
Last edited by nucleardawg
If you think you are installing the correct oil/grade/viscosity in your car..........think again.

Quote

Even if you select what you think is the OEM
required viscosity, you could be wrong. GM 5W-30 viscosity approval is different than SAE 5W-30 viscosity approval. The GM approval requires better low temperature pumping viscosity than SAE. And, a BMW approved 5W-30 is required to be thicker at high temperature than the SAE 10W-40 requirement. If you don’t understand the OEM proprietary and ACEA oil service rating systems, you won’t know the true viscosity of most oil products.

The whole link

http://diagnosticnews.com/tech...-lubrication-basics/

Notice the mention of 5w-30 being not as thick,but even thicker than 10w-40 for BMW. So much for all those against thick oil.

Looks like a premium super synthetic of 5w-50 is just about perfect if you go by the European BMW spec.

All those skeptics making fun of 'thick oil' (5w-50 / 100% synthetic oil) should re-think that belief.



Kirk
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
You know Miro some people could construe the "for your own good" as a threat to my well being.. If that happens Miro, well I will be reporting this post to the mods....Just so their is no mis-understanding in the future.


Your're as crazy as a bag of hammers. What grade are you in?


Not what grade.........what CRAZY WARD!!!!
quote:
Like in a certain Murano owned by some guy named budman..



Trajan....There you go again bringing up synlube. You must love the stuff. I spoke to budman and he told me that the Murano had many,many issues,so he traded it in.

He purchased a brand new saturn and installed synlube in that car too,and installed it in his other car as well. Now why would he do that? Because he knows it's very good oil,like I do.

<<<This is budman posting about the saturn
This sample came from MY REAL car (Saturn) that had 20,xxx miles on it at time of sample. In another thread somewhere on this forum I posted pictures of me installing synlube back in early 2008 when I bought the car and it had 1149 miles on it (i have pic of odometer at the time as well on my PC). It has gone through two filter changes since then as well as topping up with their ADD oil when needed. 19,011 miles on this sample and more everyday since it is still in my car.>>>>

No sludge here as well also from budman.............doesn't get any better than this..My cars also look just like the photos in the link below.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...1842031&#Post1842031

Budman's remarks:

Engine runs great, uses about 1/8 qt of oil per year (short trips probably most of it) and from what I can see, looks clean inside the fill hole.
I have tried to remain as neutral as possible and not take sides. I am not here to try to convince anyone to use or not use it but rather give an objective report as best I can. The Murano, I felt, had nothing to do with my choice of oil. It was cursed with issues to the point even with dino in it, was causing dealer visits. That is why I was willing to try Synlube again for my two new cars.


NO sludge in any of my cars now pushing 10 years with said lube you love to keep bringing up,over,and over again.

Kirk
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
I stopped when they annoyed me.

quote:
They will post on various boards and whine about how their engine runs like crap, and people like you will blame the oil. Not the people who use the wrong oil.

Any clearer now?


No,Trajan... you are never clear, quite frankly.

If the old/other standards were all so good trajan,all those years like so many have claimed all that time with each and every standard.......then why all the newer better standards addressing all the issues with the older standards?

Some of you posters will use cheap oil,change it every 1 or 2,000 miles. Discuss the use of engine flushes on other threads/sites to clean up the engine.......and then....

Flush out those engines with cleaners/solvents such as,MMO,A-RX,RIS.,KEROSENE,change oil,continue with chemical cleaners and flushes over and over, and then.......take a picture of a very clean valve train and say.........."cheap oil works for me"..... failing to mention all the steps/measures/cleaners taken to keep the engine clean giving a false impression/lie that dino/mineral oil did all the work.......what a joke!!!! That stuff is way old school 30 years ago and beyond!

Why not just use group IV synthetic?......it's cheaper and easier in the long,better for the engine,and way better for the environment.
It must be frustrating. No auto maker uses unrated, unproven oil in their vehicles.

Must be frustrating that most of them use dino oil for their low/mid range vehicles.

Must be frustrating that, for example, Porsche factory fills with Mobil 1. BMW with Castrol, or Ferarri uses Shell.

Must be galling that despite your claims, dino or Grp III oils are being used by thousands upon thousands of vehicles with no problems.
I'm thinking it's time for more 'links' that will show the 'facts' about the horrors of using group III oils.

Of course the links will not show anything as usual. Funny how even though evreything it posts fails to backup it's claims...It just can't admit it's wrong.

Some people have that as a personal failure. Kinda funny and sad at the same time.
Group II bulk oil used by many dealers and lube chains...Those are oils I just don't use in my vehicles...Though admittedly many do...vehicle owners enticed in by the $10-15 oil change, who after having it changed forget about ever checking it for a year.

The biggest cause of premature engine wear is owner neglect. For the most part even the cheaper oils will work with reasonable OCI. The owner needs to keep up on all facets of maintenance. A cheap little PCV causes how many problems? Leaking gaskets ignored, and the owner opting to just periodically fill the radiator.

Oil changes are just one facet of vehicle care...Important yes, but to often other facets are ignored, and the end result is sludge, with the uninformed naturally blaming the oil.

In our disposeable go go society, people either don't care about vehicle maintenance, or plead ignorant, and pay someone to do the job. A new car is about the second most expensive item most of us will purchase. I don't like to give up my hard earned cash, evry 5-7 years for a new car, so I spend the time to know the vehicle, and take care of it properly in all aspects.
Last edited by nucleardawg
75 Vette.... Nice toy.

I'm about 100 yds from an expressway. Otherwise, I can go miles and miles before I even see a traffic light.

So my oil gets nice and warm. No sludge worries using my Grp III oil.

111K, and it still rips through the gears like a throughbread. Really fun when you hit the sport button.

Yeah, right. A clunker. Sure Miro. Would be if I used unrated poo like synlube.
Since the dexos spec. will be for GM vehicles and primarily a Group III oil, they are going to have a hard time denying warranty claims for oil-related failures. As has been stated before, most people will buy a new GM, then when the OLM kicks in, they will go to iffy lube/greasy monkey, a dealer (if they can find one), or an independent. Most places will put in bulk oil.

Here in Central Fl, GM dealerships are scarce. I would have to drive to Daytona Beach (30 minutes) or to Orlando (about an hour). At least our local Lincoln Mercury dealer will work on other makes. Glad I have Nissans. There is a dealer about 5 minutes away from the office.

I think the purpose of extending OCI's make eco-sense, etc. I am running a grp III oil, but am conservative and change every 5K. I like crawling under my car and truck. I can see how everything is holding up. I check the suspension, rotate the tires, check for leaks. I check the oil level at least once a week.

Lovebug season is here, so I will probably be opening the hood more often now. Gotta hose out the bugs from the radiator and other cooler fins. Smile

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Refresh my memory you drive a Z4? If so that is a beast of modern machinery with beautiful styling to match.

The motors produced by BMW can lay down some serious horsepower, with handling to match. Sporty but also refined and surefooted.

To pollute the engine with swill like Synlube...Well that would be a syn.


A 2004 Z4 3.0L with 225hp. (The last year for that rating IIRC. When the 3.0si came out, it dropped to 215.)

The gearing is nice. At 2K rpm, multiply your gear by 10 and that's your mph.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
It must be frustrating. No auto maker uses unrated, unproven oil in their vehicles.

Must be frustrating that most of them use dino oil for their low/mid range vehicles.

Must be frustrating that, for example, Porsche factory fills with Mobil 1. BMW with Castrol, or Ferarri uses Shell.

Must be galling that despite your claims, dino or Grp III oils are being used by thousands upon thousands of vehicles with no problems.


The only people frustrated and galled as you say are the ones with engine issues,such as excess wear, excess sludge,and even ruined engines that need replacement.

However,I am quite delighted,and not the least bit frustrated as you claim...because my engines are on a strict diet of premium synthetic oil and all run perfect.

This is a pasted section of a link from hughes engine re-builders discussing all the issues with modern day lubes and how even the Japanese are way ahead and we are "trying" to catch up with their lubricant technology,not to mention the European standard as well.

quote

<<<<The Japanese have better (slicker) oils that still protect flat tappet cams, they are good enough
that they can even improve fuel mileage and protect that cadillac thing. With all the pressures from the environmentalists on our so-called elected representatives in Congress, along with $3.00 a gallon gasoline, t he oil companies are doing lots of research on improving oils to catch up with the Japanese . One of the additives that may prove to be the answer is called molybdenum carbamate. This moly is soluble so it mixes with the oil and stays in suspension. It is very slippery like its cousin the gray stuff and it actually sticks to, or plates up, on metal parts as opposed to zinc phosphate, that does not stick to the metal. In the start and stop situations that our cars go through it is actually better than zinc phosphate. Some race only oils may have super high amounts of the zinc phosphate that is fine for a 500-mile race where the engine is never shut off.



Why, you ask, isnt this moly carbamate used in some oils now, if it is so good? Two answers: 1) price, and 2) it is used in some industrial oils where use is more severe and the quality of oils make a real difference. As to cost, the oil companies have been getting by with the crap they have been selling if it aint broke dont fix it!>>>>>>


The API has definitely been trailing behind the advancement of engine technology and that is why most Euro car makers have developed their own oil specifications,and now dexos is following that lead. ACEA and the Euro car makers currently have the best auto oil specs along with engine performance and longevity. It's time for the U.S. and API to get up to speed,and that is what dexos is all about.


The dexos will be backward compatible,rendering the other oil standards obsolete....at the very least, antiquated, if you think about it.

However,In my particular case,I have been using motor oil for years now that is held at least to the highest standards mentioned above.


Any premium group IV synthetic will easily meet and exceed even the toughest standards,and has been doing so for many years now. I like to be ahead of the curve,not behind it.

Kirk
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Refresh my memory you drive a Z4? If so that is a beast of modern machinery with beautiful styling to match.

The motors produced by BMW can lay down some serious horsepower, with handling to match. Sporty but also refined and surefooted.

To pollute the engine with swill like Synlube...Well that would be a syn.


Nuke,
Gotta love that '75 Vette bro! Take care of it, drive the wheels off of it, it will last another 35 years!

Dave
Thanks for the compliment Dave...I do have plans for it. Would like to go through the suspension and update it...Ecklers offers a system for around $2900 that includes a rack and pinion update. ..Would like a older car that corners like it's on rails.

Would also like to build a mildly fast street car in the range of 350-400 HP. Like all my vehicles it will be cared for. I actually like detailing the paint and interior.

Again many thanks...Nuke
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Thanks for the compliment Dave...I do have plans for it. Would like to go through the suspension and update it...Ecklers offers a system for around $2900 that includes a rack and pinion update. ..Would like a older car that corners like it's on rails.

Would also like to build a mildly fast street car in the range of 350-400 HP. Like all my vehicles it will be cared for. I actually like detailing the paint and interior.

Again many thanks...Nuke



As usual......change the subject when you can't deal with the hard core facts!!

P.S. What's it like talking to all your different personalities???
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Thanks for the compliment Dave...I do have plans for it. Would like to go through the suspension and update it...Ecklers offers a system for around $2900 that includes a rack and pinion update. ..Would like a older car that corners like it's on rails.

Would also like to build a mildly fast street car in the range of 350-400 HP. Like all my vehicles it will be cared for. I actually like detailing the paint and interior.

Again many thanks...Nuke



As usual......change the subject when you can't deal with the hard core facts!!

P.S. What's it like talking to all your different personalities???


Facts like PYB meets GF-5. And a dino oil at that.

Something you claim isn't possible w/o it being a synth blend.

What's that oil that is neither API, or ACEA, or ILSAC rated.... Oh yeah, synlube.

How about the fact that it's the organizations named on page 1 that set the standarts, not, as you claim, big oil.

Still making those baseless accusations I see.

Nuc, make sure you use the right oil. If it has a flat tappet camshaft, (and I don't know if they do or not.), you'll want to us "SL" rated oil. http://www.aa1car.com/library/..._classifications.htm Then again, it is a '75, so it may not. (ZDDP is bad for a cat.)
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Thanks for the compliment Dave...I do have plans for it. Would like to go through the suspension and update it...Ecklers offers a system for around $2900 that includes a rack and pinion update. ..Would like a older car that corners like it's on rails.

Would also like to build a mildly fast street car in the range of 350-400 HP. Like all my vehicles it will be cared for. I actually like detailing the paint and interior.

Again many thanks...Nuke



As usual......change the subject when you can't deal with the hard core facts!!

P.S. What's it like talking to all your different personalities???


Facts like PYB meets GF-5. And a dino oil at that.

Something you claim isn't possible w/o it being a synth blend.

What's that oil that is neither API, or ACEA, or ILSAC rated.... Oh yeah, synlube.

How about the fact that it's the organizations named on page 1 that set the standarts, not, as you claim, big oil.

Still making those baseless accusations I see.

Nuc, make sure you use the right oil. If it has a flat tappet camshaft, (and I don't know if they do or not.), you'll want to us "SL" rated oil. http://www.aa1car.com/library/..._classifications.htm Then again, it is a '75, so it may not. (ZDDP is bad for a cat.)



Your too late trajan..........the last post of mine(6:03pm) already addressed all the concerns for old and newer cars,and then some. In fact,the Jay leno post way back I posted specifically addressed older cars,from the you tube link I pasted. Oh,that's right,Nuke doesn't read those......they provide knowledge!
Posters and moderators,please read this link.


This is a part of the link
This would indicate that nucleardawg is a Psycho!

http://www.ripoffreport.com/Li...iar-and-co-682eq.htm


quoted from the link


<<<<<<I met him on the internet as "Nucleardawg", but he could be out there as just about anyone. He also holds himself out>>>>>>>


Report: Walter R. McDuffie
Reported By: (Atlanta Georgia)
Walter R. McDuffie Liar and Con Artist has Resurfaced in Georgia! Macon Georgia
... Walter McDuffie is a Professional Con Artist!


1
Author
2
Consumer
0
Employee Respond to this report!


Victim of this person/company?

What's This?Are you also a victim of the same company or individual? Want Justice? File a Rip-off Report, help other consumers to be educated and don't let them get away with it!
Walter R. McDuffie
nucleardawg
Macon Georgia
U.S.A.
Phone:
Web Address:


Category: Liars


Submitted: Thursday, December 18, 2008
Last posting: Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Last edited by annieoakley
yeah, sure annie. I'd take something from someone called "Name witheld." seriously.

By your logic, all those attempts by people claiming the miro who killed his parents is the same one who pushed synlube must be true.

And, I guess when the reports are posted there of one miro/kirk/whoever pushing this synlube ripoff, ranging from how one never has to change their oil to the use of mail drop offs, multiple address, and the recently exposed lie of operating out of Mercury NV, you of course be posting that link too.

Since you stuck your beak in with yet another off topic post, perhaps you can do what your other persona fails to do.

Why does a dino PYB meet GF-5?

Why can't this swindle...er synlube meet anything?
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
yeah, sure annie. I'd take something from someone called "Name witheld." seriously.

By your logic, all those attempts by people claiming the miro who killed his parents is the same one who pushed synlube must be true.

And, I guess when the reports are posted there of one miro/kirk/whoever pushing this synlube ripoff, ranging from how one never has to change their oil to the use of mail drop offs, multiple address, and the recently exposed lie of operating out of Mercury NV, you of course be posting that link too.

Since you stuck your beak in with yet another off topic post, perhaps you can do what your other persona fails to do.

Why does a dino PYB meet GF-5?

Why can't this swindle...er synlube meet anything?


This is the way most people with half a brain see you as


ADF1=TRAJAN=NUCLEARDAWG=DELTONA_DAVE....ETC.ETC.

Maybe the moderators finally banned the nucleardawg persona,finally-hopefully!! If not.........please do so..he is way too foul for any forum!!! He pollutes this forum with his stench!!


Moreover,You are one sick individual who obviously has no life at all,other then posting crazy talk on this and other forums.

It's official...........You are a NUTJOB!!!!
Last edited by annieoakley
So, what you're saying is.......... you can't answer.

Since you can't provide the answer, or ask any kind of question that is of relevance to the topic, or even act with any kind of decorum.....

Why are you here?

Gf-5 will be backwards compatible. What I wonder is if there will be any A3/B3 offerings. Will that be even necessary.

Can you answer that one?

CAFE – the U.S. Corporate Average Fuel Economy standard for light duty trucks is currently at 21.6 mpg and will possibly increase to 29.5 mpg by the 2011 model year.

U.S. Energy Policy Act of 2005 – requires increased use of renewable fuels through 2012.

U.S. EPA Mobile Source Air Toxics – will require non-methane hydrocarbon (NMHC) standards for cold temperatures (20oF) by the 2011 model year.

California CAA section 177 – will adopt increasingly more stringent non-methane organic gas (NMOG) standards for LEV II (low emission vehicles) through the 2010 model year.

Some of the things GF-5 has to address.

Any insightful comments? Or can you only attack posters.

http://www.api.org/certificati..._draft_Nov_19_09.pdf

Again? Any relevant thoughts? Really want to see if you're more than a one trick pony.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
So, what you're saying is.......... you can't answer.

Since you can't provide the answer, or ask any kind of question that is of relevance to the topic, or even act with any kind of decorum.....

Why are you here?


Trajan/nucleardawg/adf1/deltona_dave/snakedoctor/etc.etc. ...

Answer what,and to whom,a nutjob like you....who never answers any questions,never has anything to offer,but only remarks with foul and vile comments. Why don't you answer the above link,for once, that makes nuke/you look very suspiscious! I have nothing to hide,unlike you!

WHY ARE YOU HERE,TRAJAN?........All the other posts,not including yours...or those from your other screen names, provide useful,factual information that helps people make intelligent decisions that you always detrack. I say you are here just for that purpose,to detrack us from useful,helpful information............your mission has failed sir!!!

I will continue using what you like to call,"swill lube",because it works better than anything I have used to date. That's all I need to know.

After reading this thread,I would also use if I ever needed to,the dexos discussed,because I can see it will be a very good product,however,for now,I am fine with my present motor oil,thank you very much!


Still waiting for something intelligent that makes sense from Trajan.

Since no one responed or defended the above link showing that nuke/tajan is a very disturbed person and lives on the net harassing people.........this alone would confirm it to be the truth!

Here it is again, for all to see who/what you are...posters,please read the entire link...nucleardawag is discussed in this link which we all know is trajan,etc.etc.

http://www.ripoffreport.com/Li...iar-and-co-682eq.htm

Or is this you,tajan.......

http://twitter.com/RobertTrajan
Last edited by annieoakley
quote:
Originally posted by annie_oakley:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
So, what you're saying is.......... you can't answer.

Since you can't provide the answer, or ask any kind of question that is of relevance to the topic, or even act with any kind of decorum.....

Why are you here?


Trajan/nucleardawg/adf1/deltona_dave/snakedoctor/etc.etc. ...

Answer what,and to whom,a nutjob like you....who never answers any questions,never has anything to offer,but only remarks with foul and vile comments. Why don't you answer the above link,for once, that makes nuke/you look very suspiscious! I have nothing to hide,unlike you!

WHY ARE YOU HERE,TRAJAN?........All the other posts,not including yours...or those from your other screen names, provide useful,factual information that helps people make intelligent decisions that you always detrack. I say you are here just for that purpose,to detrack us from useful,helpful information............your mission has failed sir!!!

I will continue using what you like to call,"swill lube",because it works better than anything I have used to date. That's all I need to know.

After reading this thread,I would also use if I ever needed to,the dexos discussed,because I can see it will be a very good product,however,for now,I am fine with my present motor oil,thank you very much!


Still waiting for something intelligent that makes sense from Trajan.

Since no one responded or defended the above link showing that nuke/tajan is a very disturbed person and lives on the net harassing people.........this alone would confirm it to be the truth!

Here it is again, for all to see who/what you are...posters,please read the entire link...nucleardawag is discussed in this link which we all know is trajan,etc.etc.

http://www.ripoffreport.com/Li...iar-and-co-682eq.htm

Or is this you,trajan/nuke...dawg!.......click on the link below...and may the real trajan...please step forward!!!

http://twitter.com/RobertTrajan




Well....
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
As I suspected. Well, knew actually. You are a one trick pony.


As is normal for Trajan, he ignores the question and won't respond.

Trajan also showed us that he's a liar. As we all know, when does a liar tell the truth? You can't tell.

Where's that engine that your virtual neighbour has that was sludged-up by using Synlube?

Well?

Well?

Well?
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