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Read our primer articles on High Mileage Oil, Synthetic Oil and Kinematic Viscosity

quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
we are very good at what we do...What we have done is get you and the rest of the minions banned from BITOG, where your, snd synlubes name was destroyed for all time...We have got all synlube topics locked and your next on the way out...Yes we have heard about sludge from you and the other boob...Soon you both will be gone and we can discuss other subjects besides sludge...Bye Kerk and Inhaliburton


What do you mean by 'WE' and 'do'. Are you a shill? Getting topics locked is your only purpose?

I have never seen you discuss anything other than what I bring to the table. Nothing intelligent......EXAMPLES OF YOUR DRIVEL AND ATTACKS FOR ALL TO SEE........

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...rtType=1&u=815109593

The above proof only shows your goal is to attack........and one thing in particular!!!

Go ahead nuke,let me see you start another topic......something original.....something with substance........you're free to do so....you never do.....always promise or complain you want/would like to do so........but you seem to like only this one,or whatever one I am on. Take your own advice and start whatever topic...bet you won't...you can't......you can't think for yourself like I can.......can you??? What's the matter, Bob's place to boring now!

By the way........who said anything about synlube recently except you...YA BOOB!!!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
Define synthetic? According to the data, from Ashland and other oil companies, there are no issues with wear and GF-4 oils.

With GF-5/SN soon due out, these oils will approach synthetic quality. Many of the GF-4 products contain some Grp III base oils. Additives are also very important.

With GF-5, most oils will be considered synthetic by the Grp III definition. Shell recently came out with their new Synthetic called Pennzoil Ultra. It's primarily group III base, in which they claim Grp III's have been solvency than PAO's.

Conventional oils are all one needs unless your owners manual calls for a synthetic. If you are following OEM recommendations, you should have nothing to worry about.

In a high performance application, where high heat from a turbo or racing conditions are experienced, you maybe be better off using a synthetic oil like Mobil1/Synpower etc..

The new Mustangs will be going 10k miles or 1 year on Motorcraft oil. Toyota will be doing the same with their 0w20. Both of these oils are synthetic blends.

Amsoil is currently testing their GF-5 oils that will be out later this fall, along with the rest of them.

Oils have come a long way, and you can't go wrong with any of the major brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

http://www.gf-5.com/

Using a qualified, officially approved, licensed product is your safest bet.



Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..

I have recently noticed that advance/auto zone is charging over 8 bucks for that group III stuff plus tax. Amsoil is in that price range and it's group IV. You Guys are getting hosed paying that kind of money for group III....makes no sense to me.

I have dropped all those links showing that cars are only sludging up with the group III stuff.

Nuke brags he has no sludge, claims mineral oil is good enough for all to use............yet he uses only group IV synthetic(redline) and has two cases of the stuff stashed away. He is actually making the case to use group IV,like I have stated all along. He has no sludge because he is using the group IV synthetic.

Why would you want to use group III when it cost about as much as group IV???????????

Calling group III synthetic is a legal issue,and in my view......BOGUS!!

http://www.mobil.com/Australia...thetic_V_Mineral.asp

The shell oil you mentioned above shows a 4000 mile oil change interval in their literature proving it is inferior to group IV.

I fail to see what your point was when group IV is far superior and only marginally more expensive if at all.

Buster.....If you hold the shell oil in such high esteem as you imply above,why did you state this?

Buster
Level 3 - 101 to 250 posts

Posted Thu February 25 2010 08:12 AM Hide Post
Amsoil makes excellent motor oils. Many of the larger oil companies (Shell & Castrol) use more ridiculous marketing. I think Mobil 1 and Redline take a more professional approach.

I agree Pablo. Credit to Amsoil for comparing their oils to other brands. I'm just trying to bring some reality into the discussion here. LOL


Why did I say that? Because I like Amsoil. I don't agree blindly going 25k miles on any oil, and I don't agree with their 4-ball wear test, but overall they make very good oils if you want to really extend drain intervals.

You don't need Amsoil, or any PAO based synthetic to obtain long engine life. Most of the synthetics on the market now are pretty close in quality. Even Amsoil's own comparison testing shows this.

Engines today are lasting longer then ever. I don't know of many oil related failures.
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:


Why did I say that? Because I like Amsoil. I don't agree blindly going 25k miles on any oil, and I don't agree with their 4-ball wear test, but overall they make very good oils if you want to really extend drain intervals.

You don't need Amsoil, or any PAO based synthetic to obtain long engine life. Most of the synthetics on the market now are pretty close in quality. Even Amsoil's own comparison testing shows this.

Engines today are lasting longer then ever. I don't know of many oil related failures.


Amsoil is a good oil IMO. I don't use it because none of the oil they recommend for my car is A3/B3. (They reco 5w-30)

But, if I do use a 5w-40 again, I just might try their Euro. I just have to convince myself, since it isn't on the approved list BMW has.
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
Define synthetic? According to the data, from Ashland and other oil companies, there are no issues with wear and GF-4 oils.

With GF-5/SN soon due out, these oils will approach synthetic quality. Many of the GF-4 products contain some Grp III base oils. Additives are also very important.

With GF-5, most oils will be considered synthetic by the Grp III definition. Shell recently came out with their new Synthetic called Pennzoil Ultra. It's primarily group III base, in which they claim Grp III's have been solvency than PAO's.

Conventional oils are all one needs unless your owners manual calls for a synthetic. If you are following OEM recommendations, you should have nothing to worry about.

In a high performance application, where high heat from a turbo or racing conditions are experienced, you maybe be better off using a synthetic oil like Mobil1/Synpower etc..

The new Mustangs will be going 10k miles or 1 year on Motorcraft oil. Toyota will be doing the same with their 0w20. Both of these oils are synthetic blends.

Amsoil is currently testing their GF-5 oils that will be out later this fall, along with the rest of them.

Oils have come a long way, and you can't go wrong with any of the major brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

http://www.gf-5.com/

Using a qualified, officially approved, licensed product is your safest bet.



Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..

I have recently noticed that advance/auto zone is charging over 8 bucks for that group III stuff plus tax. Amsoil is in that price range and it's group IV. You Guys are getting hosed paying that kind of money for group III....makes no sense to me.

I have dropped all those links showing that cars are only sludging up with the group III stuff.

Nuke brags he has no sludge, claims mineral oil is good enough for all to use............yet he uses only group IV synthetic(redline) and has two cases of the stuff stashed away. He is actually making the case to use group IV,like I have stated all along. He has no sludge because he is using the group IV synthetic.

Why would you want to use group III when it cost about as much as group IV???????????

Calling group III synthetic is a legal issue,and in my view......BOGUS!!

http://www.mobil.com/Australia...thetic_V_Mineral.asp

The shell oil you mentioned above shows a 4000 mile oil change interval in their literature proving it is inferior to group IV.

I fail to see what your point was when group IV is far superior and only marginally more expensive if at all.

Buster.....If you hold the shell oil in such high esteem as you imply above,why did you state this?

Buster
Level 3 - 101 to 250 posts

Posted Thu February 25 2010 08:12 AM Hide Post
Amsoil makes excellent motor oils. Many of the larger oil companies (Shell & Castrol) use more ridiculous marketing. I think Mobil 1 and Redline take a more professional approach.

I agree Pablo. Credit to Amsoil for comparing their oils to other brands. I'm just trying to bring some reality into the discussion here. LOL


Why did I say that? Because I like Amsoil. I don't agree blindly going 25k miles on any oil, and I don't agree with their 4-ball wear test, but overall they make very good oils if you want to really extend drain intervals.

You don't need Amsoil, or any PAO based synthetic to obtain long engine life. Most of the synthetics on the market now are pretty close in quality. Even Amsoil's own comparison testing shows this.

Engines today are lasting longer then ever. I don't know of many oil related failures.


I don't need to exercise or eat healthy.....but I choose to do so because It's a healthier choice and helps assure good health.

I also choose to use the best synthetic/s because all the data I have read thus far indicates at the very least.....it's very good cheap insurance. No real negatives..even the price is not far off from the other choices.

Just curious about the Amsoil statement you made......how did you determine it was close to most other synthetics on the market today,and what is wrong with their four ball test. Haven't engine tear downs verified the four ball test is accurate?

Has any testing been done to show the Amsoil four ball test is not accurate or better than the most of the competition.

Has any of those sludge monsters on the market over the last decade or so ever been found to have a 100% group IV synthetic in the engine......proving many people did in fact need a PAO oil that would have saved those engines and billions of losses over the years.

How much damage could have been prevented saving all those billions..... perhaps the cost of new cars/warranties/insurance would now be lower if not for all those sludge damaged engine claims. No one ever thinks/mentions that!
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
tell you what I will be happy to start a thread of substance but yer such a tool that you will start talking about sludge...We have heard all we want about sludge...Yah BOOB


This topic started off with......'show me sludge kirk'....on the second post.........Yah BIG BOOB,Nuke!!!

(((Capt. Kirk, Prove to me about Sludge again)))... So I answered Dave with the proof of sludge! Happy now!!


Go ahead.......make my day.......start another topic if you dare! Yah BIG BOOB, AGAIN!!
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Trajan: Kirk and the alter ego Inhaliburton, will never answer any questions, as these boobs don't have the answers.

I believe they post here, as they have been banned from all the other sites. They have been on better behaviour as of late, as they're probably down to their last chance here as well.

They will never post anything of relevance, but I give them credit for copying and pasting...Though they should read through, what they link, as it usually refutes any point, they were trying to make.


I'm pointing out to the masses Nucleardawg's inaccuracies and untruths.

He calls us "boobs."

What sites have we been banned?

I have contributed very little info as I am not an oil expert--just a user.

Capt. Kirk has supplied much typed info as well as many interesting to me links.

What have you posted besides insults?
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.

I believe it goes back to some posts where they mentioned, that they believed that sludge had something to do with the dire case of, erectal disfunction that they suffer from.

For some reason they believe sludge is clogging the main vein. They are tired of the giggles it gets them when it's money time.


Nucleardawg, show us where I am obsessed with sludge.

Your reference to erectal disfunction is uncalled for, and disgusting.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
I'm still waiting for the 'copy and paste' response.

This guy never has had an original thought. Thats why he continually gets 'owned' on every forum.

I'm sure whatever his comeback it will bring a chuckle from me as he seems a big crybaby.

I truly enjoy when the split personality surfaces and the alter ego's appear defending him...talk about a joke, but it always makes me laugh at him


And another belittling post pointed at Captain Kirk.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
we are very good at what we do...What we have done is get you and the rest of the minions banned from BITOG, where your, snd synlubes name was destroyed for all time...


That`s a lie. I have not been banned from BITOG.

quote:
We have got all synlube topics locked and your next on the way out...Yes we have heard about sludge from you and the other boob...


Calling Captain Kirk and myself a boob once again.

quote:
Soon you both will be gone and we can discuss other subjects besides sludge...Bye Kerk and Inhaliburton


You must know something that I don`t.
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Sounds like Kirk is all butt hurt again...Be a man and come get your whipping


Yet another typical post by Nucleardawg.


ihHaliburton.....Thanks for showing everyone what Nuke/dog is all about. It's actually worse/uglier than even I thought. That guy has issues man!! Must be off his Meds for sure!!
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
yes I hope my warmth shines through to inhaliburton/Miro/Kirk now hopefully we don't have to see any more 'copy and pasted' sludge info that we all grew tired of weeks ago....now i think i shall pluck the strings of this incarnation of Miro as I can alrady read what he will type out before he even type's it....somebody 'inhaliburton' is looking for sympathy...do you need a hug? man up and quit being a big baby...And post something other than sludge...yah boob.



Hey Nuke....this is your quote......


For the violations of 'Terms of Service' I feel the need to contact the operators. I and others wish to discuss oil and oil related topics, we do not wish to discuss Yugos. We wish to discuss these topics on a website, free from company minions/spokesmen who attack non-believers.



I am still waiting to see you discuss oil and related topics,so far nothing but sarcasm on all levels.

I have talked about filtration,ATF,G-oil,minimum TBN,etc,etc.

You on the other hand only chose to mock intelligent posts. You have never introduced intelligent information to any of the threads. Your posts never move to other threads or topics proving your only agenda is to mock and harass.....that's all you have done,period!!!

You have no desire to talk about oil or related topics because you would have done so already.

You are a sham!! Here is the proof again for the Mods to see. I submit you are harassing me and others on these boards with no agenda but to harass and nothing else!!!!!!

https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...rtType=1&u=815109593
you post just to post...if you read half of the things you copy links to, you would know they have nothing to do with the original subject.

Over and over and over we tell you, yes synthetic is better, but also overkill for many, but you over and over and over, copy and paste something, that has nothing to do with the subject.

I am glad to know you see that I use Redline for my higher performance engines, they run hot when driven hard and I want the protection. For my POS Ranger dino is good

Sludge yes we know Miro, we have heard and seen it from you, over and over and over...are you a retard?

quit whining you big baby, or shall I pluck another string, and get another reaction....boo hoo...
Miro/kirk/the other:

As you notice from the other site I am more than cordial when dealing with 'normal' people...Your a old troll with whom I have no patience for. I do not suffer fools like you...You are more than welcome to go back to your cave where apparently you matter. If your on a public forum, be a man and take your lumps...Or at least give up the multiple identities and stay to the subject of the original thread..You like to promote your own agenda, on a public forum your not going to get away with that,,,so quit whining, grow a pair and start fitting in, or your going to ship out of here
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I just pulled the rocker covers on my 2002 Craftsman Riding Mower/tractor (made by American yard Products AYP). Engine is a B&S 21.5 HP vertical shaft. Engine has 1200 plus hours on it. Never saw Synthetic OCI, except for one Mobil 1 top off. This old girl has had B&S oil factory fill, AAP 20w-50, GTX, Warren convenience store oil, etc. All has met API SL minimum. Last change was Rotella 15W-40. Current fill is Delvac 1300. Filters were either B&S or MotorCraft 400S.
Here is a link of the engine.

Remember, this is an air cooled Briggs Intek V-twin full pressure lube. It sees 25+ hours a month in very dusty conditions.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...=1861000#Post1861000

Dave


Capt. Kirk, Prove to me about Sludge again......

This thing has only had dino (mineral oil) on the average of every 100 hours.

Dave


Interesting read. But does not mean that by using dino oils you won`t have sludge issues.
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I just pulled the rocker covers on my 2002 Craftsman Riding Mower/tractor (made by American yard Products AYP). Engine is a B&S 21.5 HP vertical shaft. Engine has 1200 plus hours on it. Never saw Synthetic OCI, except for one Mobil 1 top off. This old girl has had B&S oil factory fill, AAP 20w-50, GTX, Warren convenience store oil, etc. All has met API SL minimum. Last change was Rotella 15W-40. Current fill is Delvac 1300. Filters were either B&S or MotorCraft 400S.
Here is a link of the engine.

Remember, this is an air cooled Briggs Intek V-twin full pressure lube. It sees 25+ hours a month in very dusty conditions.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...=1861000#Post1861000

Dave


Capt. Kirk, Prove to me about Sludge again......

This thing has only had dino (mineral oil) on the average of every 100 hours.

Dave


Interesting read. But does not mean that by using dino oils you won`t have sludge issues.


If you use a good dino oil and change when the engine manufacturer says to, there should not be a sludge issue. A properly designed engine, will not allow oil to pool in places and allow it or the contaminates to cook/coke. My B&S mower engine has huge oil galleries. These guys have been building small engines for over 80 years, they know what they are doing. They also know that most homeowners/commercial lawn services are not going to follow their suggested OCI and oil grade recommendations. In air cooled engines, the oil is used as a cooland also. Since I follow the Manufacturers OCI, I don't have a "sludge" problem. Nowdays, most "dino" oils can meet or exceed the GL-5 and API SN certifications, even though they are not going to be required until 10-2010.

Fancy synthetic oils are fine for vehicles, but in OPE, a dino oil is just fine. I have confidence in dino oils, and am going back to using Pennzoil Yellow bottle in my Titan and the wife's Altima. The new PYB will probably go 7500 miles without a problem.

Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Won't have any problem with that plan. If the 3.6L Camaro can use dino, why not the Altima and Titan.



Go ahead trajen,let me see you put that stuff in your beamer. Bet you won't. You have only used synthetic to date......gee I wonder why!!

Because even you know that synthetic is far better,and that's why you only use synthetic oil. Your actions speaks for itself!! Synthetic is best!!
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
Won't have any problem with that plan. If the 3.6L Camaro can use dino, why not the Altima and Titan.



Go ahead trajen,let me see you put that stuff in your beamer. Bet you won't. You have only used synthetic to date......gee I wonder why!!

Because even you know that synthetic is far better,and that's why you only use synthetic oil. Your actions speaks for itself!! Synthetic is best!!


Ummm, if you knew anything about BMWs at all, you would know that since 1998, they have been spec'd for synthetic oil.

If you had been able to comprehend anyting, you would recall that I'm one who uses MFG approved oils. Which, unfortunately for you, means no synlube for one.

If BNW spec'd dino oil for my car, I would use it. Tell you what, find a dino oil that says on the bottle A3/B3, and/or LL-01, and I'll use it.


If you had been paying attention, I've said that my last two cars, both Camaro V6 models by the way, I've used dino oil in both. (Try the bottom of page 8.)

It must twist your craw that while synths like Mobil 1 or Castrol or Shell are factory fill for the high end cars, not synlube, that for the rest, dino oil is just fine. Again, not synlube.

I thought a neutron star was dense.......
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:

If you use a good dino oil and change when the engine manufacturer says to, there should not be a sludge issue. A properly designed engine, will not allow oil to pool in places and allow it or the contaminates to cook/coke. My B&S mower engine has huge oil galleries. These guys have been building small engines for over 80 years, they know what they are doing. They also know that most homeowners/commercial lawn services are not going to follow their suggested OCI and oil grade recommendations. In air cooled engines, the oil is used as a cooland also. Since I follow the Manufacturers OCI, I don't have a "sludge" problem. Nowdays, most "dino" oils can meet or exceed the GL-5 and API SN certifications, even though they are not going to be required until 10-2010.

Fancy synthetic oils are fine for vehicles, but in OPE, a dino oil is just fine. I have confidence in dino oils, and am going back to using Pennzoil Yellow bottle in my Titan and the wife's Altima. The new PYB will probably go 7500 miles without a problem.

Dave


I don't disagree with the above. All of the auto makers have been building engines for decades and there should never be any serious issues by now. But we know that is not the case, hence, recalls. However, Toyota has been noted for sludgers for several years past. They denied it was their engines that were at fault, but instead, blamed the owners. Seems with some manufacturers that if an issue is going to be expensive and widespread, then they won't own-up and bite the bullet, but blame the consumer.

On the other hand, Ford did do the right thing with the Firestone tire issue. Kudos to Ford on that score.
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by Deltona_Dave:
I just pulled the rocker covers on my 2002 Craftsman Riding Mower/tractor (made by American yard Products AYP). Engine is a B&S 21.5 HP vertical shaft. Engine has 1200 plus hours on it. Never saw Synthetic OCI, except for one Mobil 1 top off. This old girl has had B&S oil factory fill, AAP 20w-50, GTX, Warren convenience store oil, etc. All has met API SL minimum. Last change was Rotella 15W-40. Current fill is Delvac 1300. Filters were either B&S or MotorCraft 400S.
Here is a link of the engine.

Remember, this is an air cooled Briggs Intek V-twin full pressure lube. It sees 25+ hours a month in very dusty conditions.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...=1861000#Post1861000

Dave


Capt. Kirk, Prove to me about Sludge again......

This thing has only had dino (mineral oil) on the average of every 100 hours.

Dave


DAVE....NO PROBLEM PROVING THAT SLUDGE ISSUE USING YOUR OWN WORDS......


THIS IS THE LINK SHOWING THE SLUDGE AND YOUR LIES........VERY,VERY WEIRD INDEED.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1829761

I have an 8 year old Craftsman (AYP) heavy duty lawn tractor that is developing some sludge/varnish. Last season, it was filled with Rotella-T 15W-40 HDEO. Well, it don't like thick oil. It burned it at about 8 oz. per week (10-12 hours). Now that I am a BITOG'er, I want to clean her up and thought about this method:

Run PP for a month or Ultra, then fill with GC (seems to be used in a lot of OPE around here). I have a couple of B&S filters (a lot of money for a dinky filter), but after searching, I have found cheaper alternatives (super techs, purolators, etc) Wix, Fram, and OEM are just way pricey for a monthly change out. I am just concerned that the alternatives have higher bypass pressures than OEM (12-14 vs 8 for OE). Think the Briggs will care?

Here in Central Florida, Mowing season is 6 months, and from May-Sept, temps are close to 100 with 90% humidity! Tough on air cooled engines.

Any suggestions on oil selection or filters?

I want to keep this thing running as long as I can, as it is a good mower and tugger for a cart, aerator, and spreader.

Thanks,
Dave
_________________________
Yes, I did say in that original post that it appeared that I was getting some varnish in my mower. That was from the observation of the dipstick and cover. Yes, there was a little varnish in the crosshatching. I asked what would be recommended. I started running Delvac and a bigger filter. I was thinking of running syn or MMO, but did not. Varnish is a fact of life with just about any oil, but more noticeable with mineral based.

After about 25-30 hours running delvac 1300, I pulled the rocker covers as they were loose and checked the valve lash. I took the pictures at that time. There is some varnish and deposits on the rocker nuts and arms. Still pretty clean though. It only had about 1/2 quart Mobil 1 10w30 for a top off last year. Still uses a little oil and I top off about every 8 hours.

Just changed the oil last weekend on it. Left the filter for another 50 hours. Shouldn't hurt.

Mower is rusting out and I will be buying a ZTR soon. I will probably keep the engine though.

Dave
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