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This is a poster on this forum who absolutely states he has no sludge issues and mineral oil is fine and will not cause sludge.

Looks like this guy has sludge issues after all. I wonder why he lied all that time?

<<<<Well it was good that it worked in your engine. For other people it seems it did not work in that same application. I did understand what I read regardless, as many cases happen to be documented, as well as success stories as well. Like many other products, it seems to be hit or miss, on whether it will work.

I can report for my Ford Ranger, I noticed no difference after using this product. If I find the need to use a cleaning agent, on my car again, I may try the Lubegard flush as it seems to be a gentle flush, or maybe MMO. I can use both products and it's still cheaper than 1 dose of the ARX. If they don't work, well neither did anything else.>>>>>

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ((((((Nucleardawg))))))), Wed May 05 2010 10:43 AM
The simple fact is: the overwhelming majority of new cars manufactured, have the factory fill with dino oil. Those are the only facts pertinent to a debate...The rest is just background noise.

Are synthetics useful? of course...Are they necessary? only in certain vehicles...Are synthetics better then dino oils? of course...Those are the facts....The rest is just background noise.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Trajan: Kirk and the alter ego Inhaliburton, will never answer any questions, as these boobs don't have the answers.

I believe they post here, as they have been banned from all the other sites. They have been on better behaviour as of late, as they're probably down to their last chance here as well.

They will never post anything of relevance, but I give them credit for copying and pasting...Though they should read through, what they link, as it usually refutes any point, they were trying to make.



Hey nuke.................YOU ARE BUSTED SIR AND YOU SHOULD BE BANNED!!!!!!!!!


http://www.ripoffreport.com/Li...iar-and-co-682eq.htm
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Yeh Kerk is totally lost as far as anything that requires up to date data. He cannot accept that sludge is not an issue.

He's kinda of like a Chatty Kathy Doll, you pull a string on it's chest and it blabs about sludge.

My vehicles are not infected with this sludge virus, nor any of my friends.

This sludge issue must be big among Yugo users thus the tendancy to use goop in the motors.

I believe the thread was started mentioning the complete lack of sludge in an engine. Perhaps the boob should start his own sludge thread where he and his alter ego (himself) can comment back and forth telling each other (himself) what a great post that was


Talk about being a boob. This post is typical from you. Insult the person who presents information. You likely don't read the links. What grade are you in?
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
I know.

I don't see why this inhal person harps on the Z4. Strange that he demands what he and his alter ego fail to provide over and over.

Just for kicks, I asked the owner if he would give all the info wanted.

He said if they posted a nice letter apologizing for their attitude, and explain why, in detail, they need all this information, he'll consider it.

But, given the fact that one knows very little about oil, and the other isn't even savy enough to stay on topic, plus the overwhelming fact that neither have as yet proven a need to know, he is doubtful.


Apologize for what?

Well?
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
The simple fact is: the overwhelming majority of new cars manufactured, have the factory fill with dino oil. Those are the only facts pertinent to a debate...The rest is just background noise.

Are synthetics useful? of course...Are they necessary? only in certain vehicles...Are synthetics better then dino oils? of course...Those are the facts....The rest is just background noise.


Pennzoil Yellow Bottle has a strong following over at bitog. A good SM rated dino.

Mobil Clean 5000 is another good dino.

Could skim through this as well.
https://forums.noria.com/eve/fo...16604995/m/976102648
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by inHaliburton:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:

My vehicles are not infected with this sludge virus, nor any of my friends.


Hallelujah! Nucleardawg and all of his friends (both of them) have never had a sludge issue. Therefore, there has never been a sludge issue.


Nuke tells everyone to use mineral oil........yet he(nuke) uses synthetic oil on all his vehicles,such as Redline oil. What's up with that?

What do you make of this....

http://www.ripoffreport.com/Li...iar-and-co-682eq.htm
Trajan I have been using formula shell in my Ford Ranger...The 2.9l engine is notorious for lifter tick. What would be a good dino oil with cleaning ability?

As this truck is older I am hesitant to spend money on a synthetic. I tried ARX that didn't seem to do anything. I am giving thought to using MMO with dino oil on my next oil change to see if that works.

It's a vehicle I use for dump runs and the such...Thanks
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
So my take Trajan is, if you follow oil change intervals, that are not outrageously long, then you should have no issues. This also requires the owner to keep up on maintenance.

This is a disposeable society today and cars along with just about everything else is marketed for a quick turnover. So people don't necessarily take care of what they own.

Todays modern dino oils are more than up to the task. If the car is spec'd for synthetic then use it. If the area in which you live in see's extreme's then it is of benefit.

My advice to someone reading these posts is don't listen to the hype, or the shill's who are close to being banned from this site. We know who those people (person) are/is.


If 'dino oils' are so good Nuke.............why do you have only synthetic in your 'STASH' ???????

NUKE...You make no sense telling everyone basic mineral oil is ssssooooo good............then admit to loading up with synthetic oil REDLINE OIL.

Your busted again!!!!!!!!

Here is the proof that proves it.......


Originally Posted by NuclearDog View Post
I currently have 1 case of Redline 5w-30, and 1 case of Redline 10-w30, in my oil stash at home. Would either of these oils be good for the 75 I just purchased, or should I look into a heavier 5 or 10w-40.

I know how to use the search function, but as a new member I want to get my posts up, so I can post pics of my new ride.

Any recommendations or explanations, of why you use your particular oil, is appreciated..Thanks Guys.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Trajan I have been using formula shell in my Ford Ranger...The 2.9l engine is notorious for lifter tick. What would be a good dino oil with cleaning ability?

As this truck is older I am hesitant to spend money on a synthetic. I tried ARX that didn't seem to do anything. I am giving thought to using MMO with dino oil on my next oil change to see if that works.

It's a vehicle I use for dump runs and the such...Thanks


I would think any of Pennzoil's conventional oils would do fine. IIRC, PYB has a lot of respect at BITOG.

The Mobil Clean 5000 is a good choice.

It wouldn't hurt to replace a quart with the MMO. AFD1 would be a good source for info on that. I did it myself and ran for 2K miles, but I did 1 qt in a 7qt sump
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Looks like the 'other site' is giving quite a bit of information proving sludge is a real issue.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1498040


And yet, not a single mention of the word sludge.



Wrong again Trajen........here is sludge talk just for you.....YOU ASKED FOR IT!!!


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1860004

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...umber=1504155&page=1


This is just a small sample of all the sludge talk on that site. It's epidemic over there as well.....SLUDGE!!!!

This makes it a littler easier to prove my point regarding sludge with this one google link/Bombshell.....

http://www.google.com/cse?cx=0...3D1504155%26page%3D1
Last edited by captainkirk
Thanks Trajan

Yeh i will ask AFD1. I'm not sure if I want to go up a grade in viscosity. normally it's 10w-30, if I use the Qt. of MMO perhaps a 10w-40.

AFD1 seems to have alot of answers though for that product. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and all is clean

Though the Ranger is a 87 the insides are spotless...no hint of sludge with regular dino oil, but like I said 99% of vehicles will never see sludge. I expected nothing less. Like I said the engine is notorious for ticking. Though it is faint... I am particular.
It's my understanding that going up a grade won't hurt, eg: 5w-30 to 10w-30, or say 10w-30 to a 10w-40. I've used GC 0w-30, Castrol 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 in the Z4.

I don't think it will hurt to use the MMO with either grade.

Supposedly Rislone helps with the tick. Like any kind of additive though, YMMV.

Pay a visit to the Pennzoil and Mobil websites. Mobil in paticular has lots of info.

Deltona Dave's point stands.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
Looks like the 'other site' is giving quite a bit of information proving sludge is a real issue.

******************http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1498040********************


And yet, not a single mention of the word sludge.



Wrong again Trajen........here is sludge talk just for you.....YOU ASKED FOR IT!!!


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...wflat&Number=1860004

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...umber=1504155&page=1


This is just a small sample of all the sludge talk on that site. It's epidemic over there as well.....SLUDGE!!!!

This makes it a littler easier to prove my point regarding sludge with this one google link/Bombshell.....

http://www.google.com/cse?cx=0...3D1504155%26page%3D1


I see that you reading comprehension is weak as ever. Kindly show me where in the thread first quoted, the one that you said talks of sludge, actually does so.

To make it easy for you, I outlined it.

As for the other two:

1st: Don't see any blame on the oil.

2nd: Stupid owner failed the ID Ten Test. "19,000 miles on 5w30 in a diesel with EGR and it's Ford's fault???????

"I don't get why someone would pay around $ 40,000 for a pickup and then decide oil changes were not necessary"

"Face it you somehow ran the wrong oil"

"I believe the rest of us know what oil to use for our specific application and not try to make a manufacturer pay for our obvious mistakes."

" ...put in an unapproved oil, and ran it way over the manufacturer specified limit, and now expect Ford to pay for your stupidity?"

"The only thing we can go by is what the analysis looks like, and it looks like SM/GF-4 Supertech from Walmart. You do have the right to use any oil you choose, and if that oil is not what Ford specifies for warranty purposes, Ford has the legal right to give you the middle finger, which is exactly what they are doing"

"He didn't do his maintenance and now wants us to hold his hand"

And that thread got locked as he was acting like a "synner."

Again, you really *should* read these links of yours. Especially as you don't understand what you're linking to.
Last edited by trajan
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.

I believe it goes back to some posts where they mentioned, that they believed that sludge had something to do with the dire case of, erectal disfunction that they suffer from.

For some reason they believe sludge is clogging the main vein. They are tired of the giggles it gets them when it's money time.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Trajan I have been using formula shell in my Ford Ranger...The 2.9l engine is notorious for lifter tick. What would be a good dino oil with cleaning ability?

As this truck is older I am hesitant to spend money on a synthetic. I tried ARX that didn't seem to do anything. I am giving thought to using MMO with dino oil on my next oil change to see if that works.

It's a vehicle I use for dump runs and the such...Thanks


I think your best bet is to give MMO a try in getting rid of your Lifter Tick, I did 3 Clean and Rinses with arx and it did nothing for my lifter tick either, MMO took care of it within about 3000 miles.

I would suggest running at least 25 % MMO in your oil, if you do not feel comfortable running almost a quart of MMO at least try about 16 ounces of MMO, if it does not clear up during the 1st OCI with MMO in there, then give it one more OCI and see what happens.

I believe the new reformulated PYB does have some cleaning abilities.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.


Links get posted. They're shown to have nothing to do with the position taken.

Then in a show of misplaced retailiation, more get posted that weaken said position even further.

Then. the cycle continues. Obsession indeed.

And none, not a single one, come even close to refute the OP.

And Big Bear has some good advice.
Last edited by trajan
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Thanks Trajan

Yeh i will ask AFD1. I'm not sure if I want to go up a grade in viscosity. normally it's 10w-30, if I use the Qt. of MMO perhaps a 10w-40.

AFD1 seems to have alot of answers though for that product. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and all is clean

Though the Ranger is a 87 the insides are spotless...no hint of sludge with regular dino oil, but like I said 99% of vehicles will never see sludge. I expected nothing less. Like I said the engine is notorious for ticking. Though it is faint... I am particular.


I missed this post and if this engine is spotless, then maybe this Lifter Tick is because there needs to be some kind of adjustment with the lifters. If the engine is spotless then probably his lifters are clear inside, if they were not clear and oil was having a hard time traveling to the top end then maybe this engine would be showing some wear on the top end.

Maybe MMO is not needed here, maybe its an adjustment. I would probably call up the Service Advisor at Ford or maybe Google " Does the 1987 Ford Ranger need any adjustments in the Valvetrain, if they do, then an adjustment may be needed, if not then there is always MMO.
Define synthetic? According to the data, from Ashland and other oil companies, there are no issues with wear and GF-4 oils.

With GF-5/SN soon due out, these oils will approach synthetic quality. Many of the GF-4 products contain some Grp III base oils. Additives are also very important.

With GF-5, most oils will be considered synthetic by the Grp III definition. Shell recently came out with their new Synthetic called Pennzoil Ultra. It's primarily group III base, in which they claim Grp III's have been solvency than PAO's.

Conventional oils are all one needs unless your owners manual calls for a synthetic. If you are following OEM recommendations, you should have nothing to worry about.

In a high performance application, where high heat from a turbo or racing conditions are experienced, you maybe be better off using a synthetic oil like Mobil1/Synpower etc..

The new Mustangs will be going 10k miles or 1 year on Motorcraft oil. Toyota will be doing the same with their 0w20. Both of these oils are synthetic blends.

Amsoil is currently testing their GF-5 oils that will be out later this fall, along with the rest of them.

Oils have come a long way, and you can't go wrong with any of the major brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

http://www.gf-5.com/

Using a qualified, officially approved, licensed product is your safest bet.
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Kirk/Inhaliburton/Miro latest obsession is sludge.


Links get posted. They're shown to have nothing to do with the position taken.

Then in a show of misplaced retailiation, more get posted that weaken said position even further.

Then. the cycle continues. Obsession indeed.

And none, not a single one, come even close to refute the OP.

And Big Bear has some good advice.



What???????? Get back on your MEDS!!!!!!!!
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
Define synthetic? According to the data, from Ashland and other oil companies, there are no issues with wear and GF-4 oils.

With GF-5/SN soon due out, these oils will approach synthetic quality. Many of the GF-4 products contain some Grp III base oils. Additives are also very important.

With GF-5, most oils will be considered synthetic by the Grp III definition. Shell recently came out with their new Synthetic called Pennzoil Ultra. It's primarily group III base, in which they claim Grp III's have been solvency than PAO's.

Conventional oils are all one needs unless your owners manual calls for a synthetic. If you are following OEM recommendations, you should have nothing to worry about.

In a high performance application, where high heat from a turbo or racing conditions are experienced, you maybe be better off using a synthetic oil like Mobil1/Synpower etc..

The new Mustangs will be going 10k miles or 1 year on Motorcraft oil. Toyota will be doing the same with their 0w20. Both of these oils are synthetic blends.

Amsoil is currently testing their GF-5 oils that will be out later this fall, along with the rest of them.

Oils have come a long way, and you can't go wrong with any of the major brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

http://www.gf-5.com/

Using a qualified, officially approved, licensed product is your safest bet.



Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..

I have recently noticed that advance/auto zone is charging over 8 bucks for that group III stuff plus tax. Amsoil is in that price range and it's group IV. You Guys are getting hosed paying that kind of money for group III....makes no sense to me.

I have dropped all those links showing that cars are only sludging up with the group III stuff.

Nuke brags he has no sludge, claims mineral oil is good enough for all to use............yet he uses only group IV synthetic(redline) and has two cases of the stuff stashed away. He is actually making the case to use group IV,like I have stated all along. He has no sludge because he is using the group IV synthetic.

Why would you want to use group III when it cost about as much as group IV???????????

Calling group III synthetic is a legal issue,and in my view......BOGUS!!

http://www.mobil.com/Australia...thetic_V_Mineral.asp

The shell oil you mentioned above shows a 4000 mile oil change interval in their literature proving it is inferior to group IV.

I fail to see what your point was when group IV is far superior and only marginally more expensive if at all.

Buster.....If you hold the shell oil in such high esteem as you imply above,why did you state this?

Buster
Level 3 - 101 to 250 posts

Posted Thu February 25 2010 08:12 AM Hide Post
Amsoil makes excellent motor oils. Many of the larger oil companies (Shell & Castrol) use more ridiculous marketing. I think Mobil 1 and Redline take a more professional approach.

I agree Pablo. Credit to Amsoil for comparing their oils to other brands. I'm just trying to bring some reality into the discussion here. LOL
Last edited by captainkirk
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
So my take Trajan is, if you follow oil change intervals, that are not outrageously long, then you should have no issues. This also requires the owner to keep up on maintenance.

This is a disposeable society today and cars along with just about everything else is marketed for a quick turnover. So people don't necessarily take care of what they own.

Todays modern dino oils are more than up to the task. If the car is spec'd for synthetic then use it. If the area in which you live in see's extreme's then it is of benefit.

My advice to someone reading these posts is don't listen to the hype, or the shill's who are close to being banned from this site. We know who those people (person) are/is.


If that's your advice Nuke........then why don't you put cheap dino oil in your 75 vette,and all your mustangs.

Why do you use the group IV synthetic that I have been touting as being superior,but go on to say mineral is fine.

Why do you tell everyone that mineral oil is fine..........but I don't see you using it in your precious cars. The ratty little beater truck you claim to drive doesn't count.

I want to see you put that cheapo Dino oil in your cars,then tell us its good enough. Put your money where your mouth is like I do.

Until then.....you are a hypocrite,just playing games,or lying. Which is it??


Here is the group IV stuff you seem to have plenty of and only use in your cars...but then go on and tell everyone group II/III is good enough to use,even though you won't use it.

Originally Posted by NuclearDog View Post
I currently have 1 case of Redline 5w-30, and 1 case of Redline 10-w30, in my oil stash at home. Would either of these oils be good for the 75 I just purchased, or should I look into a heavier 5 or 10w-40.

I know how to use the search function, but as a new member I want to get my posts up, so I can post pics of my new ride.

Any recommendations or explanations, of why you use your particular oil, is appreciated..Thanks Guys.
AT least the new G5 standard will be attempting to address the issues I have stated above.

he Sequence VG is a fired engine test designed to evaluate the candidate oil's ability to prevent sludge and varnish deposits in short trip low temperature operation.

The test cycles between low and high temperature operation, simulating the short trip driving conditions which promote the generation of acids and fuel dilution in the crankcase. A special fuel is used which is prone to sludge and varnish generation.

The rated performance parameters for the Sequence VG are:

* Average Engine Sludge (AES)
* Rocker Arm Cover Sludge (RACS)
* Average Engine Varnish (AEV)
* Average Piston Skirt Varnish (APV)
* Oil Screen Clogging (Screen Clogging, %)
* Ring Sticking (RS)


Proposed Performance Limits for AES, RACS and Oil Screen Clogging will be more demanding for GF-5 compared to the limits for GF-4.
Sequence VG Test Conditions


This test alone acknowledges that sludge/varnish/deposits are an issue.


However...the point missed is that refining petro oil into something similar to group IV is going to make it cost just as much as group IV and more if oil prices continue rising.

I still don't see a severely Hydro-cracked Group III that equals or rivals a quality group IV true synthetic,especially with doing extended OCI's. Even when that day may come.......you will pay a premium price if you buy into it.
quote:
Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..


Captain_kirk.....Damn and you where saying oil company are making *** product and the only good oil was ******* .Now you using synthetic oil what append? I thought you didn’t need to change your oil ever again.
I'm still waiting for the 'copy and paste' response.

This guy never has had an original thought. Thats why he continually gets 'owned' on every forum.

I'm sure whatever his comeback it will bring a chuckle from me as he seems a big crybaby.

I truly enjoy when the split personality surfaces and the alter ego's appear defending him...talk about a joke, but it always makes me laugh at him
quote:
Originally posted by vitual_mage:
quote:
Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..


Captain_kirk.....Damn and you where saying oil company are making *** product and the only good oil was ******* .Now you using synthetic oil what append? I thought you didn’t need to change your oil ever again.



I don't change it. I might change at 50k and send it back for credit like before.
It isn't of question of 'thinking' the oil we use is good,

The fact is that we *know* it's good.

The fact is that no one has proved otherwise.

The fact is that link after link has shown what happens when one fails to use a quality oil in favor of some unrated slop like synlube.

Link after link has shown the results of poor engine design. Or the results of owners who fail the ID Ten Test.

Link after link, provided by a die hard synlube user, has shown over and over again that the OP is right.
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
Do you have an original thought in your brain? All I see from you is 'copy and paste'

How's that little blue pill working on that sludge of your?


I have never seen you EVER post anything original or intelligent. That's my doing!!

You have never bought any information to this thread other than your drivel. Oh wait....you do at least admit to using synthetic oil you claim no one else needs,just you. Go figure!

All you are capable of is sarcasm. You're not very good at that either!

I see you are familiar with that little blue pill you refer. How many a day do you take for your condition? No wonder you are so frustrated!!

Once you go fat you don't go back is your motto I see...........I agree......but in my case that would be my wallet!!! What do you mean?????
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by vitual_mage:
quote:
Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..


Captain_kirk.....Damn and you where saying oil company are making *** product and the only good oil was ******* .Now you using synthetic oil what append? I thought you didn’t need to change your oil ever again.



I don't change it. I might change at 50k and send it back for credit like before.


Then why claim that using a Group IV/V oil is the way to go since you don't use it?
quote:
Originally posted by Trajan:
quote:
Originally posted by Captain Kirk:
quote:
Originally posted by vitual_mage:
quote:
Fine. Use your favorite petroleum oil if you think it's that good. I will continue using group IV/V synthetic because it's cheap insurance..


Captain_kirk.....Damn and you where saying oil company are making *** product and the only good oil was ******* .Now you using synthetic oil what append? I thought you didn’t need to change your oil ever again.



I don't change it. I might change at 50k and send it back for credit like before.


Then why claim that using a Group IV/V oil is the way to go since you don't use it?



You know full well what product I use...you constantly bring up that product over and over knowing full well I have moved on.

What else would you like to know regarding my chosen brand of oil you keep referencing, and why?

Your favorite topic seems to be my chosen oil...why do you mention it so often?
quote:
Originally posted by Nucleardawg:
come on Miro man up...I'm ready to push your buttons,so I can watch you squeal!!


The only buttons/doll strings getting pushed and pulled are yours and you know it!!!!!!

Anyone reading can see that.....it's so obvious!!! NUKE=BAD-TEMPER=BIG-MOUTH=SARCASM

You admit your only purpose on this thread is not to provide good information......but to make insolent idiotic comments.

How honest of you to admit this info. Finally your true purpose is confessed. Now you can go away little man!
we are very good at what we do...What we have done is get you and the rest of the minions banned from BITOG, where your, snd synlubes name was destroyed for all time...We have got all synlube topics locked and your next on the way out...Yes we have heard about sludge from you and the other boob...Soon you both will be gone and we can discuss other subjects besides sludge...Bye Kerk and Inhaliburton
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